Parts List - First Saber - Danger McC

[Danger McC]

Hello everybody,

new guy from Germany here :smile:. This is my first post and my first saber project. I read a whole lot of the tutorials in this forum (big thanks to everyone who took the time to write those) and I tried to put together a part list as best as I could. Because it's my first saber I tried to build something simple from MHS components, but I also want to be able to upgrade it later on with a custom shroud made of the MHS Sleeve Material (just have to get my hands on a dremel and other tools).

Here's my part list:

HILT:
- Screw on LED blade holder style 4
- Hilt style 3, recessed AV switch hole
- MPS Pommel style 6
- MPS Insert style 6
- MPS Clip
- MHS Sleeve Material
- 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw (*)
- 5/64" Allen wrench (*)
- Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) Service on BH for the screw (*)
- Super Lube Synthetic Grease

ELECTRONICS:
- Rebel Star LED “Amber” & MHS Heatsink Module (v4) (*)
- MWS BuckPuck, 1000 mA
- 150 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
- 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
- 4AAA Battery Holder with JST Connector (~6V)

BLADE:
- LED “Corbin Style” Show Blade 1” OD (36 inches), Quad Wrap, Standard Tip
- 1” Hilt safety Plug (Trans White)

I still have a few questions and would be very thankful if the pros could have a look at them and the part list, to see if anything important is missing :wink:.

I attached a picture of the general saber layout (made in the MHS builder) and one of the wiring to let you guys see what I had in mind.

Saber.jpg (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9198&d=1379105816)

Wiring.jpg (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9199&d=1379105816)

Do you think all the electronics will fit inside the hilt? Or is the position of the switch (which is the standard position as shown in the MHS image and nothing customized) too close to the LED holder so I need to mount an extension in between? I think the JST connectors that come with the parts are enough, to connect everything, but I'm not sure...

If I understood correctly, the optimal current for the Lux III "Amber" LED is 1400 mA, would my current setup with the 1000 mA also be okay, or will the brightness suffer, because of insufficient current?

Concerning the AV switch, are there two separate connections for the switch functionality and the illumination LED? And can the resistor (150 Ohm in my case) be easily attached to the BuckPuck via the screws on the front at the ARES ports, or do I have to solder something at the backside?

I only have a last question concerning the blade itself: I'd really like to have the Corbin core effect, but I'm not entirely sure if I should get the double or quad wrap. I read in the forum, that the quad wrap would blur out the core effect a bit, which sounds good, but are there any other effects? Does it influence the illumination along the blade? Because I want to use it as a show blade mounted at the wall, an even illumination would be best. Maybe someone has experience with the best wrapping for the amber Lux III?

Thanks in advance, I hope I didn't overload this thread with too many questions :smile:.

EDIT: I changed the LED Module Heatsink according to Silver Serpent's recommendations and I also added the service for the blade retention screw, changed or added positios are marked with (*).

[Silver Serpent]

Everything should fit as-is. You may want to ask Tim if he can build the LED module with a v4 heatsink, since it is a lot shorter than the standard one. Or you could get the .75" extension http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/75-Male-Female-extension-P776.aspx to fit between the bladeholder and your main body piece.

The Rebel Amber LEDs should be run with the 700mA buckpuck. You don't want to feed them 1400mA unless you are running a tri-rebel with two dice in parallel.

Yes. The AV switch has connection points for the LED and for the switch itself. The two will operate independently. With the MWS buckpuck, the LED will come on with the main blade.

I don't have much experience with the Corbin blades, so I'll leave that to another sabersmith.

The only thing missing that I see is a blade retention screw. You can get one here, at a hardware store, or out of your parts bin (if you have one). You can drill and tap the hole for your retention screw yourself, or get Tim to do it for you for a small fee. Just be sure the hole and threading match with your screw.

Feel free to ask any more questions you like. It's best to avoid making multiple orders, especially if you're outside the US.

[Danger McC]

Thanks for the quick reply :-)!


Everything should fit as-is. You may want to ask Tim if he can build the LED module with a v4 heatsink, since it is a lot shorter than the standard one. Or you could get the .75" extension http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/75-Male-Female-extension-P776.aspx to fit between the bladeholder and your main body piece.

Both options sound good. I haven't found the option for a v4 heatsink in the "Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module", should I put it in a comment, when I send the order, or should I send a PM to Tim beforehand?


The Rebel Amber LEDs should be run with the 700mA buckpuck. You don't want to feed them 1400mA unless you are running a tri-rebel with two dice in parallel.

Oh, okay, it seems I was mislead by the description in the LED brightness chart (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7266-LED-Brightness-Chart&highlight=lumen), or I misread it :confused:. Thanks for clarifying things.


Yes. The AV switch has connection points for the LED and for the switch itself. The two will operate independently. With the MWS buckpuck, the LED will come on with the main blade.

Perfect, that's exactly the behavior I want :-)!


The only thing missing that I see is a blade retention screw. You can get one here, at a hardware store, or out of your parts bin (if you have one). You can drill and tap the hole for your retention screw yourself, or get Tim to do it for you for a small fee. Just be sure the hole and threading match with your screw.

I think I will get a retention screw at our local hardware store, one for the blade and at least one more for the shroud, which I want to add later on. I have some tools for that, but because they are all metric over here, I thought it would be better to keep them all in the same system ;-).


Feel free to ask any more questions you like. It's best to avoid making multiple orders, especially if you're outside the US.

Thanks alot for the big help :-)!

Does anyone else have any suggestions? Especially concerning the best wrapping for a blade for display and an amber LED?