Parts list - Did I get everything?

[Commander]

Ok, so I know the noob list says start simple, but I decided to add a bunch of extras, since shipping is pricey to South Africa. I will hopefully be placing my order around January.

Saber basics:
Blade holder 11
with "new style" heat sink V2
Recommended 8-32 thumb screw
Hilt style 3 with standard switch hole
Pommel style 8, MPS clip and pommel insert style 3 Changing pommel insert style to 6
Star thermal tape pad
Build your own Seoul P4 Electronics kit:
4AA battery holder I will be using 4x AA NiMH batteries here
Seoul P4 (red)
5(degree) lens
4.7ohm 5w resistor
(swithc02) Push on/Push off switch
P4 lens holder

Corbin style 36" show blade 1"OD
1/8" heatshrink
Tap Handle
(The 8-32 drill bit, tap set in out of stock, hoping it will be in when I order, otherwise ill go for another size)

Extras:
Covertec clip,
1" hilt safety plug
8-32 x 1/4" socket head screw
MHS choke style 3

Sound electronics:
16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel plated switch -- Will this fit on the handle I have chosen, or will it require drilling?
Alternatively, should i just take the momentary switch with the LED kit? swapping this for the standard momentary switch with red button
2.1mm Power jack -- Will greatly appreciate a diagram of how this should be wired in
Kill plug style 5
Premium Speaker
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1 with Light meat sound
2.7 ohm 10w resistor
24 gauge wire; 3 feet both red and black, 2 feet blue and green
Adding the 2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger. By some luck I already have a smart charger.

Did I get everything, or what should be added?
I suspect that ill need extra wire. Which would be best to get?
With regards to the blade retention screw, do I drill the hole at a 90(degree) angle to the blade holder?

That's all for now. Will ask more as questions come up.

Thanks in advance everyone.

I will update this post as I get more info, and maybe swap parts

[Commander]

About the pommel insert, will that one be fine, or is there one of the vented inserts that can fit the power jack? I'm thinking of providing the sound with a bit of space to escape the hilt here. Pommel changed, thanks Silver Serpent

[Silver Serpent]

Hooking up a recharge port is detailed in the sound board manuals. It's also in this post: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2235-Recharge-port-hookup&p=51391#post51391

Pommel insert style 6 (in aluminum or brass) is vented and has a threaded hole for the recharge port.

The AV switches will not fit in the standard hole. You can select the AV switch hole service from the store to make it the appropriate size.

Yes, you will drill at a 90 degree angle for your blade retention screw.

Now for some other news: If you're running the Nano Biscotte, you can't use the 4AA battery holder. Or at least, you can't use 4 AA alkalines. 6v of power is too much for the sound board. It is better to use a single li-ion battery for that board. They can't be shipped internationally from the US right now, so you'll have to find some locally. You could also use 4 AA NiMH batteries instead, if those are easier to find. You will need to recalculate the resistor for your LED based off of your new power source. There is a link in my sig for the resistor calculator I use.

[GFJedi]

Can't he use the 4xAA holder, or even a 2xAA holder and dummy cells, and get some 14500's locally? As long as the batteries are not paired up in series in the holder, it will spit out 3.7v won't it?

[Silver Serpent]

Yes, a single 14500 and 3 dummy cells would work fine. Or modify the holder so all the cells are wired parallel and get 4x the runtime. There's a few different ways to do it. Popping in 4 AA NiMH is the simplest solution.

[Commander]

I had a nice reply typed out and when I posted I wasn't logged in, copied the reply...and didn't :( *sigh*

NiMH batteries seems to be the easiest to find.

I had a look at the Nano's wiring guide, and will do my own diagram when I have time, just to make sure I understand what it explains.

Will a guarded switch fit on an unguarded style hilt and look ugly, or not fit at all. I will probably get a guarded style hilt and switch if there is stock when I order.

for the resistor: NiMH batteries give 1.2V each so 4.8V collectively. for the P4 red LED, source will be 4.8V, forward voltage will be 3V, forward current 800mA, so a 1.7W capable or greater 2.7ohm resistor so this? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/27ohm-10w-resistor-P14.aspx the wattage is probably to high?
alternatively with one of the other P4 LED's: 4.8V source, 4V forward voltage and 1000mA forward current. So a 2W capable or greater 1ohm resistor, thus http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx

[Silver Serpent]

Wattage is a minimum. You can always go larger. The resistor just takes up more room in the hilt.

Guarded switches don't fit in standard holes (and vice versa).

[Commander]

Will the higher wattage have an impact on battery life?
Is it necessary to isolate the Nano board after soldering on the wires, and what would I use to do this?
Will I need to add something for the battery pack to not move around inside the hilt, or will it fit fine?

Thanks for all your help Silver Serpent, I greatly appreciate it.

[Commander]

9155

*diagram copied from the Nano Biscotte user manual and edited to add a recharge port

I did a quick edit of the existing diagram to add the recharge port. Is this correct? the recharge port and diagram can be found on page 8 + 9 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/Nano%20Biscotte%20v1.0-GB.pdf

[Silver Serpent]

Wattage of the resistor won't have any impact other than the room it takes up. Your wiring diagram looks correct.

You will probably want something to help hold your battery pack in place. You'll definitely want a chassis of some sort for the Nano Biscotte. There are some nice acrylic discs in the store specifically for that purpose and will work well with the NB.

With the battery pack and battery holder, you may be able to get by with some foam mounting tape. Or possibly use some PVC pipe and cut out a holder that will fit your pack. There are quite a few decent ways to do it.

[Commander]

*cries in corner* Ok, so acrylic disks to help keep the NB safe. I assume that the battery chassis/chassis rig isn't strictly necessary, but useful to keep everything neat and tidy inside the hilt? would there be any danger of the NB getting damaged if it is next to the speaker?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

*cries in corner* Ok, so acrylic disks to help keep the NB safe. I assume that the battery chassis/chassis rig isn't strictly necessary, but useful to keep everything neat and tidy inside the hilt? would there be any danger of the NB getting damaged if it is next to the speaker?

Yes, it does prevent things from rattling around. It also makes the difference as to "how much" dueling a saber can withstand, a well constructed chassis in a saber mean you should have a very durable saber.

As for your question about the NB, it won't hurt it per se, but if you have some space between the two, it will be less susceptible to false swing sounds caused by speaker vibration.

[Silver Serpent]

The acrylic chassis discs are nice, but they're not the only way to do it. They're probably the easiest way though. You can certainly build your own chassis with pvc pipe or something else nonconductive. You just want to hold the electronics in place, keep them from banging around, and prevent short circuits if the board touches the inside of the hilt.

[Commander]

I think I'll try and build by own chassis for this. What kind of wire should I get, the 24 or 26 gauge?

[Silver Serpent]

Both are perfectly acceptable. Make sure you have a good set of wire strippers though. It's really easy to cut through those thin gauge wires.

[Commander]

Will have a look for a soldering iron and some wire strippers next time I make it to a hardware store. As for soldering wire, thin and lead-free seems to be the way to go. I'll also need some "helping hands", but I should be able to borrow those from a friend.

When I'm soldering the wires to the board, should I just tin the wires, then re-melt the flux (that's what it's called right?) when the wire is in place?

[Silver Serpent]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOdnGUMi7lQ is the tutorial I used for learning to solder. Personally, I prefer the leaded solder. It melts at a lower temperature and is generally easier to work with. Don't eat the leftover scraps of solder. ;)

Don't get cheap wire strippers. Get a good set. I use Klein myself, and they work great.

Flux is a mixture of chemicals that you either apply manually, or is included in the solder itself. It aids in cleaning oxidation off parts, and improves the melting and wetability of the solder. The solder is the metal portion.

ALWAYS tin your wires first. Trust me, it helps a ton.

[Commander]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOdnGUMi7lQ is the tutorial I used for learning to solder. Personally, I prefer the leaded solder. It melts at a lower temperature and is generally easier to work with. Don't eat the leftover scraps of solder. ;)

Don't get cheap wire strippers. Get a good set. I use Klein myself, and they work great.

Flux is a mixture of chemicals that you either apply manually, or is included in the solder itself. It aids in cleaning oxidation off parts, and improves the melting and wetability of the solder. The solder is the metal portion.

ALWAYS tin your wires first. Trust me, it helps a ton.

That's an awesome tutorial, thanks for pointing it out.

[Commander]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?WishlistId=32545 here is my final shopping(wish) list. Does this look like everything? If the 8-32 drill and tap isn't in stock I'll get the 10-32 with appropriate screws instead. The thumb screw and button head screw(for covertech clip) should work fine.

[Silver Serpent]

Nothing strikes me as missing.

Just as an fyi, the button that comes with the covertec clip is plastic. If you want a metal one, you'll have to order that separately. The plastic one will work, it's mostly an aesthetic difference.

[Commander]

Thanks for the heads up, I added a metal button. I might still decide to swap the choke for the style 1, but other that that I believe the list is completed. Thanks for answering all my questions so far Master Serpent.