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xwingband
10-13-2006, 03:36 PM
I happened to aquire a dual tube from Corbin (No he's not making them, he sold me his).

Here's the picture comparison of the two next to a Corbin Double Wrap:
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8625/shannonxj3.jpg

My first impressions are that it's a much lighter core, not nearly as defined. It seems lo be brighter in person though due to the illumination of more tube.

It does have a rattle when you hit it because the top is not secured. I will elaborate on how I'd fix that if you want to attempt this on your own later.

More later... I have to jet for dinner. It's an interesting blade.

987654321a
10-13-2006, 03:46 PM
thats very very nice man, but i dont get it. lol whats in the polyc?

xwingband
10-13-2006, 04:59 PM
I'll continue since I got side tracked...

How it is constructed is three types of PolyC: Outer shell of thin walled 1/16" PolyC, a layer of 1/16" that is a spacer, then the inner tube of 1/16". The outer tube is matte sprayed and the inner is wrapped with fishing line. This was where the perpendicular scratching of Corbin's film came from.

The shortcomings of the blade are that it rattles because it's not secure at the top. Part of that is the tip... It's like sleeve. Shannon the original maker used the caps you get from the quarter toy machines. Innovative for not having the stuff we do now.

That tip also means the mirror was just held in place like a sandwich and blocked all light. In the condition I got the blade in it had to be glued back anyway... I scratched out a tiny circle so it lights up very well. In fact when I make one for myself it should look brilliant.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Here's how I'd do it:
The layering would stay the same except I'd use some of the spacer PolyC at the top too. I'd combo this with Tim's tip. That way you could cut the adhesive to the shape of the I.D. of the inner tube. This would make a brrilliant tip and should fix the rattling issue.

In addition I'd use Corbin's film for the inner tube. Then matte spray the whole blade including the tip. This IMO would be the most fantastic looking blade.

I don't have my leefilters or a white LED running now to test the White Core/Colored Aura blade, but when I do I will keep you all posted.

vadeblade
10-18-2006, 10:11 AM
Hi,

I did not see it in the description. Could you provide the OD of each of the polyc layers that you plan to use.

And what should the thickness of the fishing line be? i've seen from .21mm to .71mm.

Thanks,
Vincent

xwingband
10-18-2006, 03:31 PM
It's three layers of 1/16" thick Polys as far as I can see. That's what I would plan on too (1" OD 7/8" ID, 7/8" OD 3/4" ID and 3/4" OD 5/8" ID). The fishing line used in the one I bought is the beefiest I've seen. I don't fish so sizes are pretty much beyond me there, but thinking next to a ruler it'd be at the top end there of .71mm.

A much faster way that would still work is roll in some of Corbin's film into the inner tube. It's really only for the core, so unless you want to wrap the line for hours I'd say go with his film. That's also my plan for replicating this.

vadeblade
10-19-2006, 08:16 AM
I'm sure wrapping fishing line around a tube will only take minutes if a cordless drill was properly utilized.

xwingband
10-19-2006, 09:03 AM
And endless screw-ups until it's done right... rolling some film to shove in is what I'd recommend.

Soulkeeper7700
12-06-2007, 11:11 AM
hey xwing, did u ever get around to making that blade.. i see its been a while since you posted on it.... and if you did do it, post some pics.

xwingband
12-06-2007, 11:20 AM
I did... I think I made a separate topic for it.

I took 1 thin 1" and 1 Thin 3/4" tube. I then used a single wrap of Corbin's in each.

To me it wasn't worth it. There is definately a difference, but it doesn't out weigh the downsides of the rattling.

I was staring at that blade this Thanksgiving (It's on one saber I have displayed at home) and I think I'll throw some PolyP in the inner tube. I wasn't doing the dual film blades then. I think it will improve it. lol, imagine that a dual film in a dual tube...

If you really want a different look and don't duel then maybe it's for you. I'll get back later on the PolyP in it, as it stands I like the old school Psab Keel fishing line one better than mine.

psab keel
12-09-2007, 10:09 PM
Oh man!

I didn't even know that any of my original blade designs still existed!

For those who wondered about what this original design was (the coring design that Corbin eventually perfected).....

The original was made out of these components: (All diameters in Inches)

Polycarbonate Tubing

1 O.D. 7/8 I.D. 1/16 Wall -Outer Tube

3/4 O.D. 5/8? I.D. 1/16 Wall -Inner Tube

Scrap Polycarbonate pieces were used as spacers to secure the inner tube within the outer tube.

The inner tube was wrapped painstakingly in fishing line to get the perpendicular lines running across the blade.

I then sprayed the wrapped inner tube with a thin coat of Non-Yellowing Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear Coat to bind the fishing line together- (much like the force.) Sorry I couldn't resist!

Then some reflective film was placed in the tip. Then I used (and still use) hot glue to cap the saber (which allows light to pass through the tip so the whole blade is illuminated) Also I used (and still use) small vending capsules filled with hot glue to round the tip off and make a pliable but strong blade tip that does not fly off during even the most abusive combat. A small hole is then drilled through the vending capsule, the outer Polycarb, and into the hot glue. Then this is filled with hot glue to create a plug -much like a set screw - that can light up but will keep the tip from flying out. Much cheaper and easy to replace. Plus, it flexes with the tubing during combat because it's like a hardened rubber.

From that original design I developed another blade design.

I used the same components but instead of wrapping in fishing line I just painted the inner tube with White Lexan Bonding paint (which is primarily used on RC car bodies- and can be purchased at most local hobby shops.)

So in fact, it looks as though X-wing's blade there is a combination of those two designs fused into one.

:lol:

I just can't believe that those versions are still out there! Since then I've developed another blade method using films for my final design.

I really have to thank Pippmaster for getting me experimenting with LED's.

For anyone who really wants to know the real history of Luxeon LED sabers, check out the New Lighting Strat thread in the Lighted Blades section of the ASAP Dewback Wing Boards.


That was a trip down memory lane for me! Haha

Lord Maul
12-09-2007, 10:19 PM
Psab, how long did it take you to wrap the fishing line around the inner blade?

psab keel
12-09-2007, 11:20 PM
A few hours. You had to basically make sure that it didn't overlap or unravel. It was tied off by drilling two holes in the lower end of the tube and tying the line after looping it through them. Then the line was wrapped around the length of the tube and then tied off in the same manner on the other end of the blade.

xwingband
12-10-2007, 07:50 AM
Yeah, if anything the fishing line was interesting because it gave more texture than Corbin's film.

Blades are the key to Luxeons so I always futz with them. Probably less so with the methods we have now, but still worth it. I'm going to add PolyP to it when I get home. hopefully it'll be a great change and become an even better display blade.