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darkeyedkid
07-28-2013, 05:34 PM
Here's my guessing rendition of a tri-rebel bbw with the two blues wired in parallel. According to my info I don't need resistors for the leds with the battery and board I'm using. But if Each diode is about 3.5v and the board needing 4.5-6v, it seems that the diodes will be underpowered as well as the board. 9054

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-28-2013, 05:40 PM
You have the LED wiring wrong. Put a wire from each LED (+) pad to the board (+) wire and do the same for the (-) pads to the negative (-) wire. ;)

And the (+) and (-) are on either side of the LED.

darkeyedkid
07-28-2013, 06:25 PM
lolz, do I at least have the proper battery?

kk, how's this? And won't the two diodes be underdriven?

9055

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-28-2013, 06:39 PM
Possibly, but not by much. But how does that old saying go... "Beggars can't be too choosy".

darkeyedkid
07-28-2013, 07:31 PM
Well what if I used a 7.4v battery and used a resistor between it and the board? That way each diode will get about the right amount of voltage yes? As long as they're wired in parallel. Did I get the wiring right that time?? 8/ With the 7.4v will the 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor be enough for the a/v switch??

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-28-2013, 07:44 PM
It looks like you got it right.

As far as using a 7.4V pack, you could try it, but you waste energy, and I'm not sure that it would all fit in your hilt. I don't know how much power the MR board puts out, so I can't really answer that, though if JGJ says he did 2 greens in parallel, then you'll be ok. The DynaOhm should still work with your switch.

darkeyedkid
07-28-2013, 08:09 PM
I'd rather waste some energy than have it be underpowered. And that sink tube is a good 12" long. It should all fit. The MR cheapy wiring diagram thread says that for at least one of them, it should be run with a 4.5-5v battery. And the resistor between the battery and board should work the same as a resistor between the battery and led. But regardless, I should probably get the lowest amperage in the 7.4 volt battery selection shouldn't I?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-28-2013, 08:18 PM
Current won't be the main "issue" the voltage would be. The current would be the same even if you used the 3.7V you originally had in mind.

darkeyedkid
07-28-2013, 08:38 PM
But the led calculator would work alright for calculating the resistor I'd need for a 4.5-6v soundboard? Which, again, is what the MR wiring forum says one is?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-28-2013, 08:58 PM
As long as you use the right values. You would CAREFULLY need to go over the specs for the MR boards. I don't know them offhand, other than the voltage requirements. You need to know what the max current they can take is. I would guess it's about an amp, but that's strictly a guess on my part.

Jay-gon Jinn
07-29-2013, 04:15 PM
An MR board will sizzle and smoke if you give it anything over 6.0volts. Lu also so not use a resistor to drop voltage from 6.4 to 6 volts, you use a 5 volt regulator for that. Resistors do have an effect on voltage, but not to that degree, they are for controlling current flow. As far as the leds go, the 3.5 volt rating is the forward voltage rating, meaning in a nutshell that it will require at least that much to properly light up. I have run several single rebels on MR boards over the years, and never had any trouble with blowing them up or under powering them. The soundboards itself will limit he amount of current the leds receive already, and the voltage will be the same as the input on the board. Use the 3.7v 18650 and you should be just fine.

darkeyedkid
07-29-2013, 06:03 PM
An MR board will sizzle and smoke if you give it anything over 6.0volts. Lu also so not use a resistor to drop voltage from 6.4 to 6 volts, you use a 5 volt regulator for that. Resistors do have an effect on voltage, but not to that degree, they are for controlling current flow. As far as the leds go, the 3.5 volt rating is the forward voltage rating, meaning in a nutshell that it will require at least that much to properly light up. I have run several single rebels on MR boards over the years, and never had any trouble with blowing them up or under powering them. The soundboards itself will limit he amount of current the leds receive already, and the voltage will be the same as the input on the board. Use the 3.7v 18650 and you should be just fine.


That saves me a lot of time searching, thanks. Now you said you've run single rebels. Does all of what you said apply to the tri-rebel too, with just the two blues in parallel? :) I won't be doing anything with the white. At least not for a while.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-29-2013, 06:12 PM
I'm going to guess that your best bet will be to stick to a single rebel and run it properly. Running two in parallel will only cut the current the LED will get in half. Make this easy on yourself (and us) stick to a single die rebel. Jay said he is able toi use a 18650 with no issue, so that sounds like it'll be your best bet. ;)

darkeyedkid
07-29-2013, 06:17 PM
I'm going to guess that your best bet will be to stick to a single rebel and run it properly. Running two in parallel will only cut the current the LED will get in half. Make this easy on yourself (and us) stick to a single die rebel. Jay said he is able toi use a 18650 with no issue, so that sounds like it'll be your best bet. ;)

good idea ;) I just don't want a repeat of disappointment like I got from this guy (no offense to him). http://www.ebay.com/itm/251243305612?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

For the price, it's an okay deal. But I was personally disappointed in the brightness not to mention the hilt work. I don't know what this guy really uses but I've been wondering as to the quality of his leds compared to TCSS. If anyone is familiar with this guy, please give me your opinions.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-29-2013, 06:40 PM
We've been over this. You basically get what you pay for. On eBay, you really take your chances... because everyone under the sun thinks they are a saber smith. They tend to prey on noobs and those who don't know any better to make a buck off of them.

$90. is cheap, and that's what you received, a cheap hilt.

This isn't a cheap hobby (I know most don't want to hear that), and if you want really good, it costs money to get it. In my case, I don't build that much anymore, but I basically use CF's (the PC's big brother) and I do have a few PC's laying around for "cheaper" builds. Boards have been developed (first the PC and now the NB) to make things more affordable for the beginners.

When one is on a budget, the first thing one will likely have to sacrifice is their lofty expectations.

Caine Drathul
07-30-2013, 11:03 PM
Run a single blue rebel off that MR board and you will be just fine.