simplified blue saber parts list

[darkeyedkid]

Okay, another revision. This is it. I can feel it.

-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (blue)
-LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
-Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module + charger
-Screw on LED blade holder style 20
-MHS Extension Blank Style 3
-1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
-MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
-1-3/8" Chrome end cap
-Premium Speaker
-MR soundboard (cause some of us are on a budget) :(
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch (or a red one. I haven't decided yet)
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
-Bezel for illuminated switch
-1ohm 2w resistor
-26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black) + heatshrink

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Getting better... this plan is fairly realistic.

You need to get a blade retaining screw (and the hole drilled and tapped if you're not going to do it yourself).
Also when you get wiring get multiple colors (not just black), it'll help you figure out which wire is which later on in life.
How do you plan on securing your speaker (and everything else in the hilt, for that matter)?

[darkeyedkid]

This is just a thought. I'm considering the tri-rebel still and just worrying about the two blue dice. I feel confident enough about that and also have enough info to do it. That way, if I want to do something with the white in the future when I know enough, I'll have it.
As for the other stuff, I'll think of something.

[Sevinzol]

The 1.5" sink tube doesn't seem to have a nut for the flared end like the 1.25" tube does (according to the picture). If thats the case you may want a screw of some kind to hold the 1-3/8" chrome cap in place, otherwise its just a tension fit and you run the risk of it popping of and stuff sliding out.

[darkeyedkid]

Alas, my final parts list. Did I pick the right Li-Ion 18650 3.7v batt?


-Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
-Single 18650 Li-Ion charger
-LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (32 inches)
-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (blue)
-Screw on LED blade holder style 20
-1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
-MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
-1-3/8" Chrome end cap
-MR soundboard (from ebay)
-Premium Speaker
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
-26 g wire (red & black)
-Bezel for illuminated switches
-8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, that would work fine.

[GFJedi]

Your battery and charger selections are a little confusing. The only "loose" 18650 batteries in the store are TrustFire 2400mAh 2-packs or the Panasonic 3400mAh single packs (protected or unprotected) that work with the single charger. There is no "loose" 18650 2600mAh batteries that will work with that charger.

Otherwise there is the MWS compatible 3.7v 2600mAh protected battery module (with JST connector, im assuming you mean this one), or the MWS Panasonic 3.7v 3400mAh protected pack with JST connector. These 2 options are intended for internal use with a recharge port and the smart charger, and not compatible with the single charger.

If you are intending to use a loose battery cell with that single charger, please keep in mind the ones with the JST connector will not be compatible. Also, you will need to source a 18650 battery holder with leads to incorporate into your electronics. Keep in mind that "protected" cells are slightly longer than unprotected ones due to the PCB that is located at the end of the cell, and not all 18650 battery holders are made the same, some are a tighter fit than others, and placing a protected cell in one of those holders, it may be nearly impossible to remove without damaging something.

[darkeyedkid]

One more thing. The setup of this battery looks confusing to me. There aren't any holders for it on sale here. I assume I wire it directly to the MR board I'll use. How do I go about charging this particular battery so it won't explode, melt, light my house on fire, etc? Is it safe to charge it even though its apparently wired directly to the board?? O_o
Cause it sure doesn't seem so. xP

[darkeyedkid]

Your battery and charger selections are a little confusing. The only "loose" 18650 batteries in the store are TrustFire 2400mAh 2-packs or the Panasonic 3400mAh single packs (protected or unprotected) that work with the single charger. There is no "loose" 18650 2600mAh batteries that will work with that charger.

Otherwise there is the MWS compatible 3.7v 2600mAh protected battery module (with JST connector, im assuming you mean this one), or the MWS Panasonic 3.7v 3400mAh protected pack with JST connector. These 2 options are intended for internal use with a recharge port and the smart charger, and not compatible with the single charger.

If you are intending to use a loose battery cell with that single charger, please keep in mind the ones with the JST connector will not be compatible. Also, you will need to source a 18650 battery holder with leads to incorporate into your electronics. Keep in mind that "protected" cells are slightly longer than unprotected ones due to the PCB that is located at the end of the cell, and not all 18650 battery holders are made the same, some are a tighter fit than others, and placing a protected cell in one of those holders, it may be nearly impossible to remove without damaging something.

Oh, haha. THAT is good to know. Do you have a suggestion for a good 3.7v battery to go with the rest of my list? I do not want one that I have to charge internally. And I do already have this universal battery charger. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130887528304?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[darkeyedkid]

Alas, my final parts list. Did I pick the right Li-Ion 18650 3.7v batt? Rather, is it the best one for those who want a rechargable li-ion that goes in a holder?


-Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 Cylindrical 3.7V 2600mAh Flat Top Rechargeable Battery??? + holder
-LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (32 inches)
-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (blue)
-Screw on LED blade holder style 20
-1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
-MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
-1-3/8" Chrome end cap
-MR soundboard (from ebay)
-Premium Speaker
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
-26 g wire (red & black)
-Bezel for illuminated switches
-8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

[GFJedi]

The tenergy won't work (and is out of stock anyways) why not just buy the Panasonic protected battery? It's a little more money, but a better option than the trustfire 2 pack.

Otherwise you 'can' use the MWS packs but you need the smart charger and one spare jst connection to wire onto the charger to plug the battery into. This option will take up less room in your saber, but the charger will cost a little more. I would strongly suggest against trying to come up with a way to use the single cell charger with the MWS pack.

[darkeyedkid]

I would get it, but it doesn't say that it's rechargeable.

Would you recommend this one.. Li-Ion 18500 Cylindrical 3.7V 1400mAh Rechargeable Battery

Or this one.. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-Ion-14650-Cylindrical-36V-1050mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-P761.aspx

I'm not really looking to wiring up a jst connected battery AND buy the smart charger, as well as a plug. :/

[GFJedi]

I would get it, but it doesn't say that it's rechargeable.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3b/Paris_Tuileries_Garden_Facepalm_statue.jpg

[Silver Serpent]

All the li-ion batteries in the store are rechargeable.

[darkeyedkid]

Iseewhatyoudidthere. ¬_¬

But given that others specifically say "rechargeable" in the specs, it might (just might) be logical to conclude that the others may be non-rechargeable. :P

On another note I understand that you guys have been doing this stuff for a while and need to listen to people far less versed in the hobby over and over again. And it may get quite annoying having to explain the same basics to people over and over again. Take it from a psychologist in training, that annoyance can build up to the point where one might behave as if said newbies are, in a way, one big newbie and have to have things explained to this newbie over and over again, and that this big newbie should just know certain things by now. However, that's not the case. You have all been very helpful and I thank you for that. But I have tried to be as respectful as possible while at the same time being periodically patronized in some way or another by some. I'm sure other people would appreciate it if the same respect was given as was received.

[darkeyedkid]

All the li-ion batteries in the store are rechargeable.


Thank you SS.

[Silver Serpent]

While your comments about newbies are understandable (we've all started out at that point), many of your questions have been answered in the past. Several of your answers can be found in the stickied posts at the tops of the various forum sections. I know it's a LOT of information to take in. I've personally read about 95% of the threads posted since I joined, not to mention a ton of them prior to my joining.

While I certainly wouldn't expect new members to read nearly as much as I have before asking questions, sometimes using the search function or even Google first would go a long way towards better relations. Some days I spoon-feed more than others. Some days I just feel especially snarky, and try to refrain from making posts. Others may be less kind.

A simple saber CAN be made by following the stickied posts in this section: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?35-New-to-the-saber-scene-Start-Here With a little reading of the manuals, you can also build a nicer saber with sound. Adding bling, blinking lights, crystal chambers, disco balls, remote control car starters, etc, are not generally recommended for the beginner. Depending on what skills you brought with you to this hobby, your mileage may vary.

We're all volunteers on these forums. We're human, we get frustrated. Most of us are polite most of the time. Stick around a while, learn what you can, and build a few sabers. Once you've done that a few times, you may find yourself answering more questions than you are asking. That's what happened to me.

[darkeyedkid]

Well you've been great silver. But I appreciate everything you said. ;) I think my problem was/is I wasn't sure what exact kind of saber I really wanted to make. It seemed like there was always something missing from the info I had read before and I just wanted to make sure I could combine these two or those two ideas. It seems a lot of foul ups I've seen in life have been due to lack of communication. So I just like to be sure by talking to a person and making absolutely sure, especially when some $$ is being spent. ;) But everyone has been quite helpful.

[GFJedi]

Iseewhatyoudidthere. ¬_¬

But given that others specifically say "rechargeable" in the specs, it might (just might) be logical to conclude that the others may be non-rechargeable. :P

On another note I understand that you guys have been doing this stuff for a while and need to listen to people far less versed in the hobby over and over again. And it may get quite annoying having to explain the same basics to people over and over again. Take it from a psychologist in training, that annoyance can build up to the point where one might behave as if said newbies are, in a way, one big newbie and have to have things explained to this newbie over and over again, and that this big newbie should just know certain things by now. However, that's not the case. You have all been very helpful and I thank you for that. But I have tried to be as respectful as possible while at the same time being periodically patronized in some way or another by some. I'm sure other people would appreciate it if the same respect was given as was received.

I apologize if you have taken any of my comments as patronizing. Like SS said, this saber building stuff has been going on for the better part of a decade. You are not the first "noob" to the hobby, and won't be the last. Im still new to this myself, but rather than asking for the answers every step of the way, I have taken the time to take what I already knew going into this hobby, and to spend my time reading what others have done, searching for some answers I had questions about, and so on. You are continually asking advice, being told what you need to do, then turn around and do the opposite or just don't listen and go do what you want. We know exactly what you want out of your saber, the problem is that what you want, you are not willing to spend the money to put together properly. You said you had bought one of those el-cheapo ripoff's on ebay? How much did that saber cost you? Likely, it was upwards of the cost of a quality soundcard like the Petit Crouton, or heck, even a used Crystal Focus board. Both of those soundboards could easily handle a two die led setup, include a buncha fancy extra features you dont really need (until you have them and realize how great they are). The price difference in parts beyond your soundboard is minimal going from a MR to a high quality board, and you get what you were looking to have. The way I see it, you just want to spend as little as absolutely possible, and end up with a saber in hand. I don't think anyone even asked once, with Blade Holder 20, do you plan to also order up the odd $30+ in extras to finish that piece off properly? It should have a nice graflex button screw, glass fisheye lens, brass socket pins, thumbscrew, etc... Its honestly nothing to do with "putting up with another noob", its the frustration others start to feel after spending days trying to help you, and realizing that little or no progress has been made. I would not have suggested the panasonic battery if I did not believe it was appropriate for your needs, and honestly, who would spend that much money on a non-rechargeable battery? Had the advice of others been followed, and corners not been attempted to be cut this entire time, you would have already had an order placed into the store, and your parts would be on their way to you already.

Right now, from the latest "list" you had up, can I make you a suggestion? Seeing as how you are back-stepping from the tri-rebel to a single die led, and insist on a MR soundboard, and with the use of BH20 on your build, perhaps just doing a basic MR conversion would be a more appealing option? Find a nice Anakin ROTS or Luke ANH Master Replica or Hasbro Force FX saber hilt with working electronics, maybe one with a shattered blade or damaged led string. Pick that up for a reasonable price, and then snag the blue led, 8 degree lens, lens holder, thermal pad, conversion kit, brass pins, some wire and a blade. The conversions are pretty easy to do on the graflex style hilts, and your going to get the same kind of brightness from it as you would on your custom saber, since you would be using the same kind of soundboard and LED anyways.

We all want to see you succeed and build a saber to showoff to the community, if we didn't, no one would be trying to help you out.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I think my problem was/is I wasn't sure what exact kind of saber I really wanted to make.

I would agree with this assessment. It's hard to help you out when you aren't sure of what you want, or worse, it keeps changing. I'm happy that you're on the right track now.

Worry not, I'll be thinking of you this weekend at the Jedi retreat, especially when I am dusting off my saber combat skills. :D

[darkeyedkid]

I apologize if you have taken any of my comments as patronizing. Like SS said, this saber building stuff has been going on for the better part of a decade. You are not the first "noob" to the hobby, and won't be the last. Im still new to this myself, but rather than asking for the answers every step of the way, I have taken the time to take what I already knew going into this hobby, and to spend my time reading what others have done, searching for some answers I had questions about, and so on. You are continually asking advice, being told what you need to do, then turn around and do the opposite or just don't listen and go do what you want. We know exactly what you want out of your saber, the problem is that what you want, you are not willing to spend the money to put together properly. You said you had bought one of those el-cheapo ripoff's on ebay? How much did that saber cost you? Likely, it was upwards of the cost of a quality soundcard like the Petit Crouton, or heck, even a used Crystal Focus board. Both of those soundboards could easily handle a two die led setup, include a buncha fancy extra features you dont really need (until you have them and realize how great they are). The price difference in parts beyond your soundboard is minimal going from a MR to a high quality board, and you get what you were looking to have. The way I see it, you just want to spend as little as absolutely possible, and end up with a saber in hand. I don't think anyone even asked once, with Blade Holder 20, do you plan to also order up the odd $30+ in extras to finish that piece off properly? It should have a nice graflex button screw, glass fisheye lens, brass socket pins, thumbscrew, etc... Its honestly nothing to do with "putting up with another noob", its the frustration others start to feel after spending days trying to help you, and realizing that little or no progress has been made. I would not have suggested the panasonic battery if I did not believe it was appropriate for your needs, and honestly, who would spend that much money on a non-rechargeable battery? Had the advice of others been followed, and corners not been attempted to be cut this entire time, you would have already had an order placed into the store, and your parts would be on their way to you already.

Right now, from the latest "list" you had up, can I make you a suggestion? Seeing as how you are back-stepping from the tri-rebel to a single die led, and insist on a MR soundboard, and with the use of BH20 on your build, perhaps just doing a basic MR conversion would be a more appealing option? Find a nice Anakin ROTS or Luke ANH Master Replica or Hasbro Force FX saber hilt with working electronics, maybe one with a shattered blade or damaged led string. Pick that up for a reasonable price, and then snag the blue led, 8 degree lens, lens holder, thermal pad, conversion kit, brass pins, some wire and a blade. The conversions are pretty easy to do on the graflex style hilts, and your going to get the same kind of brightness from it as you would on your custom saber, since you would be using the same kind of soundboard and LED anyways.

We all want to see you succeed and build a saber to showoff to the community, if we didn't, no one would be trying to help you out.

I appreciate you saying that GF. I guess my indecision hasn't been the easiest to deal with. ;) Like I said, I wasn't really sure what saber I really wanted or how to truly combine this or that idea. x) And I do prefer talking with people more directly I suppose. Since you say people may feel frustrated that little or no progress has been made, I'd like to say I disagree that little or no progress has been made. I'm sorry you feel that I've not been listening or have been doing the opposite. But I've really been trying my best to listen. And perhaps what has been interpreted as doing the opposite is me just trying to explore all options in a new hobby that I know next to nothing about, and getting as many opinions and experiences as I can. But you're right about me not wanting to spend too much. ;D That's part of what I've wanted in a saber the whole time too. ;)

While it may not feel like it to those people who've been helping, you all have taught me a lot in just the past week and have really been helping me all along to decide on what kind of saber I really want to invest in and have been giving me what I needed the entire time. I think maybe that's what I've been trying to figure out in part the whole time, and asking the technical questions seemed better than just asking, 'hey folks, what kind of saber do I want?' ;) And you're totally right about the el-cheapo saber from ebay. It was $60. xD

All you guys have been very helpful in giving me a crash course into the saber-building scene. You, SS, fjk, and others have really helped me single out a realistic, affordable build that I'll be happy with.

And I like that suggestion very much. I will definitely look into that first. ^_^

[darkeyedkid]

Worry not, I'll be thinking of you this weekend at the Jedi retreat, especially when I am dusting off my saber combat skills. :D


Oohhh I seewhatyoudidthar fjk! >.>
I may be there too with my cheapie ebay saber. *sneaks up behind**clicks saber on**womp!**runs away* ;D

[darkeyedkid]

Definite last list. Just so I have it.

-LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (32 inches)
-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)
-Panasonic Protected 18650 3.7V 3400mAh + holder (this one.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171028558464?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 )
-1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
-Screw on LED blade holder style 20
-MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
-1-3/8" Chrome end cap
-MR soundboard (from ebay)
-Premium Speaker
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
-wire (red & black) + heatshrink
-Bezel for illuminated switches
-8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Oohhh I seewhatyoudidthar fjk! >.>
I may be there too with my cheapie ebay saber. *sneaks up behind**clicks saber on**womp!**runs away* ;D

Not even close... You don't know where on the planet the meeting is, and I doubt you'd get past the Sith floating around. And even if you did, there will be several Jedi Masters to deal with, and though my name will be on my shirt, I'll see you long before you figure out who I am. ;) :D And unlike General Grievous, I don't collect sabers off my "former opponents", unless they are REALLY nice ones.

[darkeyedkid]

Not even close... You don't know where on the planet the meeting is, and I doubt you'd get past the Sith floating around. And even if you did, there will be several Jedi Masters to deal with, and though my name will be on my shirt, I'll see you long before you figure out who I am. ;) :D And unlike General Grievous, I don't collect sabers off my "former opponents", unless they are REALLY nice ones.

I already bonked ya. ;D

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Definite last list. Just so I have it.

-LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (32 inches)
-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)
-Panasonic Protected 18650 3.7V 3400mAh + holder (this one.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171028558464?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 )
-1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
-Screw on LED blade holder style 20
-MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
-1-3/8" Chrome end cap
-MR soundboard (from ebay)
-Premium Speaker
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
-wire (red & black) + heatshrink
-Bezel for illuminated switches
-8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw



This list looks like a good basic build to begin with. You can always 'fancy it up' later by adding the graflex-button looking screw and/or glass eye and/or pins to the BH20, add another MHS to 1.5 adapter for MHS pommel with insert, covertec wheel or d-ring for belt carry or t-track or other grip material etc. if/when you want to but this build can be a good start in this hobby as long as you drill some holes somewhere [and it doesn't have to be in the chrome endcap, depending on how you mount the speaker] to let the sound out ;) but then you already knew that I'm sure. Please post pics and/or vid when you finish your build cuz we love to see those, and Good Luck, MTFBWY.

[Silver Serpent]

Nothing strikes me as missing. You may need to do a little sanding on the AV Bezel, since it's sized for MHS parts. Other than that, good luck with your build!