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View Full Version : Proper diagram please for lux tri-reb with a/v switch and MR board. D':



darkeyedkid
07-26-2013, 11:09 PM
Hello. I've chosen my main parts for my lux tri-rebel bbw saber with an a/v switch. I'd very much like to find a proper diagram on how to wire this mess up. I'm wanting to run the two blue diodes in parallel. And if I can, run the white in parallel with the blues. I know this will make the blade more white with a bit of blue, but I'd really actually like it that way. However, I don't know if I even have the right battery to run all 3 diodes in parallel. x(
But anywoot, would somebody please direct me toward a good diagram that is at least similar to this? Or even be super nice and quick make me one in their "paint" program?


Electronics
-Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Blue/Blue/White)
-Star thermal tape pad
-Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens
-1ohm 2w resistor (at least 2 of 'em)
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
-26 g wire + shrink wrap
-Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery + charger
-MR soundboard

GFJedi
07-27-2013, 07:05 AM
Short answer is that you can not run any of the dice in series with the 3.7v battery. All 3 must be run parallel. Spend a little more time searching the forum, you'll find info that will help you.

darkeyedkid
07-27-2013, 03:26 PM
I guess that helps. I've been searching the forum for days now. Haven't really found anything that makes it all clar to me. :/ I really want to get this done before I start grad school the end of august too, lol. To do that I think I need somebody to just tell me straight out how to make this thing. This will probably be the only saber I'll ever make so needless to say I'm not looking to become thoroughly versed in the hobby like many on this forum. I just need a straightforward guide to get this thing done, especially since I've never really done any kind of wiring project ever. x)

So do I bridge all 3 diodes or, ack, no wait! I take the 3 resistors and, wire them separately, or, blah! I know! I wire the 3.. oh no I've gone crossed-eyed. o_O'

GFJedi
07-27-2013, 04:11 PM
Maybe you should just commission out the build to a saber smith, just get a quote, and set up a payment plan. This would be the best option for you if you just want someone to hold your hand the entire time, and have no intentions of building any more sabers after this one. This will save you a lot of money on stuff like soldering equipment and supplies, excess wiring you will have no use for later, the hours of your life you wont be spending on the build, etc... There are builders, and enthusiasts, you seem to be a very enthusiastic enthusiast who wants a saber, but perhaps are in over your head on actually building it yourself. No shame in recognizing and admitting that, thats why there are people who do make somewhat of a living on building sabers for others.

darkeyedkid
07-27-2013, 05:33 PM
I would still like to build it myself. I have the soldering equipment available. I'm not looking for somebody to "hold my hand the entire time" either. I'm not ashamed to admit that I really have no experience in led wiring, but I could do it if I had the appropriate diagram.

Jay-gon Jinn
07-27-2013, 10:10 PM
This is actually pretty simple to wire up....you'll be putting the two blue rebels in parallel and then wiring those (without resistors, they aren't necessary with the board and battery set up you're using) and wiring them to the board's led outputs just like in the conversion tutorials. The led in the switch can be wired to the MR board as well, parallel with the main led, using the Dynaohm resistor. Read this old topic I posted on a build using a similar set-up, it may help you out:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12142-Jay-gon-Jinn-s-Chrome-Saber-33-Build-%28MHS-MR-FX-illuminated-AV-switch-AAA-Alkalines%29

darkeyedkid
07-28-2013, 01:41 AM
Thanks for that! It says on the MR wiring guides that I need a 4.5-6v battery for those boards though. So I should probably get that extra voltage.
If I do that should I still not get resistors or does the MR board have it's own built in resistors?
Aren't each diode in the tri-rebel 3.5v? It seems that even with a 6v battery the two blues will be underdriven. I definitely don't wanna underdrive them. Would a 7.4v battery be fine too as long as I found the proper resistor to put between the battery and board? I'm trying to find out the max v and max amp of those boards as we speak. But the led resistor calculator should work for a board too right?