first lightsaber

[aguiarmandjr]

Hi, I am making my first lightsaber/ electronic project. At the moment, I am just getting the electronics down, so If I can get some feedback on the wiring portion, that would be great. I was told because I am using Master Replicas Luke Skywalker Sound Board that I dont need a resistor for the main Seoul4 green led because of build in resistors, but the issue is now that I kinda want to put in a 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch. I got a variable resistor for this connection, however I just dont know where to link it. From my research I think it gets connected from the pos and neg leads on the led. If you can correct me, that would be fantastic. just for reference, I have a few pics of the soundcard and a slefmade diagram what the wires are currently are. also got these electronic components
Seoul P4 Lens Holder
Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
Seoul P4 (Green)
MHS speaker mount V3
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
Star thermal tape pad
20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
4AA Battery holder
http://s119.photobucket.com/user/Jay-gon_Jinn/media/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/101_5187-1.jpg.html
http://i1316.photobucket.com/albums/t611/aguiarmandjr/soundcarddiagram_zps8bdd4a1e.png

[madmaxx]

welcome aboard. the only thing that i could see being a problem is the 4aa battery holder. unless it's a long 2 x2 it won't fit in the hilt. try a 3 aaa holder you can get them in a cylinder form and they will fit nicely. short of that use 2 aa li-ions

[aguiarmandjr]

welcome aboard. the only thing that i could see being a problem is the 4aa battery holder. unless it's a long 2 x2 it won't fit in the hilt. try a 3 aaa holder you can get them in a cylinder form and they will fit nicely. short of that use 2 aa li-ions

Yea I got the 2x2 in order to fit the MHS speaker mount V3 so all the electronics fit nicely together. But am I correct with connecting the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch to the Seoul P4 using the extra outputs? I just want to be reassured on this one aspect so I make sure I dont fry everything... :P

[madmaxx]

from what i know the resistor should be before the positive connection on the actual green led otherwise it is useless .you want the resistor to resist some of the forward voltage to the led so it doesn't blow it.

[aguiarmandjr]

from what i know the resistor should be before the positive connection on the actual green led otherwise it is useless .you want the resistor to resist some of the forward voltage to the led so it doesn't blow it.

Thing is I asked someone before about how everything will connect together, and they said the board already has resistors for the main led so the correct flow goes into it, so I am guessing that I could just go like this then Bored-purple wire (pos for clash and led)- variable resistor- swith- neg leads to bored? sorry and thanks for responding

[madmaxx]

ok i see what you are getting at. that part i'm not too sure about. i don't have any experience with master replica boards but i don't think you can do that. i would try running the led in the switch off of the actual ignition switch wiring with the resistor instead of from the main led. don't quote me on it though... sorry that i can't help you on this.

[aguiarmandjr]

Oh its totally fine, thank you for responding though! :D I just thought since the wiring on this board were straight forward so there wouldnt be a problem/snag getting the result I wanted... lel. In your suggestion though, do you think there will be enough power in splitting the pos activation wire to power the led and actual switch? Again, thank you for just responding and helping me out

[madmaxx]

i reckon if you went switch resistor led it should work...if you have a multi meter then check the forward voltage to the switch and go from there. the resistor will protect the board in any case so at the very least it will just not work i suppose

[jin starkiller]

You can use the resistor on the switch then wire it up with the main led from the board......hope that helps to clarify

[aguiarmandjr]

yea i just got an image from another thread saying this is a good way to go.... idk if this is what you guys mean, but i just figure ill put it up here to just spread awareness, just in case :p
9056 if it is not going up right, idk why its acting up a little myself here is the link to the thread that has the photo
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?15599-Master-Replicas-sound-board-wiring-diagram&p=224918

thank you all for writing and your help

[aguiarmandjr]

Alright, I wired everything up like i did in the diagram, and the sound is absolutely perfect. However, there are 2 things wrong with it. First, the led on the switch does not light up. I did it like that one guy said to but it still doesnt work. this is the least important of the two. When I first wired the led pos (purple) and negative bundle (the mix of wires), the led turns on like it supposed to when the switch is off. when i turn the switch on, the led becomes less bright. I do not know what is wrong with it at all, because all this seems counter-intuitive and im pretty sure all the wires are correctly labeled (pos and neg), even they were mixed up, the led should just not light up. I have no clue what is going on, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[GFJedi]

Perhaps clear photos of both sides of the soundboard would help so people can look for errors in wiring, soldering, etc...

[aguiarmandjr]

http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/aguiarmandjr/media/565262_10201643842682983_945385204_n1_zps439462d5. jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/aguiarmandjr/media/961173_10201643842002966_819421453_n_zps3bc0cf2e.j pg.html?sort=3&o=2
http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/aguiarmandjr/media/1080313_10201643841602956_1616651463_n_zps3b9f22b6 .jpg.html?sort=3&o=3
http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/aguiarmandjr/media/1080993_10201643840802936_981659813_n_zps5c48a231. jpg.html?sort=3&o=4
http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/aguiarmandjr/media/1081873_10201643843162995_164500403_n_zps404254c8. jpg.html?sort=3&o=5
http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/aguiarmandjr/media/1085366_10201643843763010_983749536_n_zps8a10a461. jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

If you would like me to take more photos or anything please let me know.... its just disappointing that my first time is not comin out the way i expected it to :(. And in what way would the soldering joints impact the functionality to this point if you dont mind me asking, bc i am new to soldering too and I would not put it behind me that the lack of experience is most likely my downfall. I like burnt myself with the dam soldering iron a couple times so i just want this thing to work after all the pain put myself through. Again thank you

[Crystal Chambers]

Ah.....this could have been posted in a better section of the forum. The gallery is typically for finished work.

[aguiarmandjr]

oh my apologies, this is just all new to me; lightsaber building, forms, soldering, ect. If you would like me to restart the post in the correct section I will but since everything is here that would be my only reason to be reluctant to do so.