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Xonos
06-12-2013, 09:47 AM
I just recently put my saber together (NB with two 3.7v Truefires wired in parallel), went in and edited some swing and clash sensitivity parameters (while staying well within the recommended bounds) and when I plug it back in my saber (I have the MWS version with the harness), the boot sound starts up well and good, when I hit the switch the LED activates, does the hum for about 10 seconds, the sound cuts off, then about 1-2 seconds later the LED cuts off. I know there's power flowing to the speaker, but I don't know what the exact source of the problem is and how to fix it. Would it by chance be a corrupted/bad sound board or card? I tried reformatting the card and uploading an earlier configuration, but still the same issue happens. The batteries are fresh and charged, so I know it's not that.

GFJedi
06-12-2013, 10:31 AM
Everything I have read says the NB prefers to have only a single battery cell powering it. I would try bypassing one of the batteries temporarily to see if it behaves normally on one battery cell.

Silver Serpent
06-12-2013, 10:34 AM
Parallel wired battery packs are fine. You can have a dozen cells in parallel if you have the room. :)

It sounds like the batteries are low. Did you charge them yourself, or are they still on the original charge from when you purchased them? Li-Ions aren't typically shipped with a full charge.

Also, make certain your battery pack is wired in parallel. Check the voltage with a multimeter if you have one. If the board is getting too much power, you could get results like this as well.

The SD card seems to be working fine, since you have sounds being played. If the card were defective, you only hear a beep or two.

Double-check all your solder joints and see if anything appears loose. Make sure none of your wires have been damaged or have the insulation rubbed off.

Xonos
06-12-2013, 10:41 AM
Parallel wired battery packs are fine. You can have a dozen cells in parallel if you have the room. :)

It sounds like the batteries are low. Did you charge them yourself, or are they still on the original charge from when you purchased them? Li-Ions aren't typically shipped with a full charge.

Also, make certain your battery pack is wired in parallel. Check the voltage with a multimeter if you have one. If the board is getting too much power, you could get results like this as well.

The SD card seems to be working fine, since you have sounds being played. If the card were defective, you only hear a beep or two.

Double-check all your solder joints and see if anything appears loose. Make sure none of your wires have been damaged or have the insulation rubbed off.


I re-wired the battery pack myself, so I know it's in parallel. The saber worked perfectly before I altered the parameters. I charged them both when I got them in the mail. I didn't electronically eject the card once after messing with it-could that be it? All he connections seem to be good-they're all heat-shrunk anyway.

Silver Serpent
06-12-2013, 10:53 AM
Did you do a full format of the SD card, or a quick format? Quick format never works. It has to always be a full format. Also, be sure that power is cut to the board when removing or inserting the SD card.

You might try reloading the SD card again. It might fix the issue.

From what you've said, it's passing all the common troubleshooting points. If reloading the SD card doesn't work, I'm at a loss.

Xonos
06-12-2013, 11:19 AM
Did you do a full format of the SD card, or a quick format? Quick format never works. It has to always be a full format. Also, be sure that power is cut to the board when removing or inserting the SD card.

You might try reloading the SD card again. It might fix the issue.

From what you've said, it's passing all the common troubleshooting points. If reloading the SD card doesn't work, I'm at a loss.


I just reformatted in FAT and restored all the original files-nothing. You think if I PM Erv he might know what to do?

Xonos
06-12-2013, 11:45 AM
Well, a new complication arose. When I have the LED module disconnected (I have a quick-disconnect) the thing works fine as far as sound goes. The second I plug it in, however, the LED lights up for a second, then the circuit does the sound-then-light-going-out deal. Would that be a result of the card perhaps being overloaded accidentally?

Arryck Corso
06-12-2013, 01:17 PM
If everything works fine with your main LED unplugged, then the problem is with your LED not your board. What color LED are you using? And do you have it properly resistored? That's where I would start.

Xonos
06-12-2013, 01:29 PM
If everything works fine with your main LED unplugged, then the problem is with your LED not your board. What color LED are you using? And do you have it properly resistored? That's where I would start.


Well, now nothing works when I plug the board into the MWS harness, LED or no. I'm using a Royal Blue MHS module. I altered the drive parameters of the NB so the voltages match up without the use of a resistor. I tested the light with a spare battery and it works.

GFJedi
06-12-2013, 02:14 PM
That could be your issue. Letting the NB control the led. Did you calibrate to 3.7v, or peak voltage of a fully charged battery? If the battery is putting out 4.2v fully charged, the board might not be driving the led properly. Just to be safe you should always resistor your LEDs whether you need to or not, it's cheap insurance.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
06-12-2013, 02:30 PM
You should be testing your entire setup with a different battery source (preferably just one single cell 3.7V battery) - and test it ALL outside of the hilt, since you could be shorting something out inside the hilt. You will be asked for high quality pictures and close ups of the connections on the board, to the LED and a general pic of the wiring. I saw your post on FX as well.

Silver Serpent
06-12-2013, 03:41 PM
How far did you adjust the Drive parameter? If you drop it below about 820, then the NB can get damaged. The lower you set the Drive parameter, the more heat will build up on the board.

It's much safer to use a resistor. They're very inexpensive, and they're designed to disperse the extra power properly.

Xonos
06-13-2013, 08:48 AM
How far did you adjust the Drive parameter? If you drop it below about 820, then the NB can get damaged. The lower you set the Drive parameter, the more heat will build up on the board.

It's much safer to use a resistor. They're very inexpensive, and they're designed to disperse the extra power properly.

I drove it at 918. I can't find a 2w 1 Ohm resistor anywhere for the life of me (the closest the circuit requires) but I'll keep searching for one and I don't find it that logical to order one all the way from Washington State and pay $7.99 to ship a 66 cent resistor if I don't have to.

Xonos
06-13-2013, 08:58 AM
You should be testing your entire setup with a different battery source (preferably just one single cell 3.7V battery) - and test it ALL outside of the hilt, since you could be shorting something out inside the hilt. You will be asked for high quality pictures and close ups of the connections on the board, to the LED and a general pic of the wiring. I saw your post on FX as well.

My whole setup worked perfectly until I took out the card and altered some swing sensitivity parameters. I posted the question there to see what Erv himself had to say about it.