Crossed Threads

[Xonos]

I just got an MHS ribbed extension and a ribbed extension with choke and when I screwed them together I didn't realize I had accidentally crossed the threads until they were almost all the way screwed. How do I fix it? It'll only budge a little bit either way. I'd really prefer to not destroy the threads if at all possible (if they're not already), but if I have to bite the bullet and order two replacement parts I'll do it. Anyone have a solution?

[Silver Serpent]

Read through this: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2767-Dealing-with-stuck-or-difficult-MHS-threads

Hopefully the threads aren't too badly damaged. Crossthreading has a bad habit of wrecking threads though.

[Xonos]

And if the threads are destroyed beyond buffing out/gentle filing with a Dremel is pretty much the only course of action to buy new parts, because I imagine a thread tapping kit for that size to only be used once wouldn't be worth it.

[Silver Serpent]

Oh, there are always more options. Certainly you can buy new parts. You could also take your dremel to the female threaded section, completely remove the threads, and then drill and tap a hole for a set screw to hold the two pieces together. They'll slide together instead of screwing together, but they'll hold reasonably well. I'd consider that a last resort option though. Not really my first choice.

[Strydur]

99.9999999% of the time if you just get some oil to soak into the threads they will come right apart.

[Xonos]

Well, I threw some penetrating oil on it and threw the parts in the freezer overnight and it still won't budge. I heard something about other people on here sending them of somewhere to get them 'un-screwed' by a machinist. Will Tim be able to do that if I run the gamut of options here and are unable to get them apart?

[Weaver]

This will do you little good as a repair option, but it's wonderful for prevention: When dealing with threaded parts of any kind (bottle caps, nuts and bolts, saber parts, etc), I always seat the threads by turning them left a little bit first. The first thread in the male part will slip past the first thread in the female part; you'll feel the tiniest release and hear a small click. From that position, you can't fail. The pieces thread together perfectly every time.

I haven't cross-threaded a part in fifteen years.

[Xonos]

This will do you little good as a repair option, but it's wonderful for prevention: When dealing with threaded parts of any kind (bottle caps, nuts and bolts, saber parts, etc), I always seat the threads by turning them left a little bit first. The first thread in the male part will slip past the first thread in the female part; you'll feel the tiniest release and hear a small click. From that position, you can't fail. The pieces thread together perfectly every time.

I haven't cross-threaded a part in fifteen years.

I'll keep this in mind when I thread together my parts, thanks. I'm asking around to various machine shops at the moment and trying to get a price quote. It's...definitely more stubborn than just uncooperative threads. The oil and freezing did nothing.

[Weaver]

I hate to be the one to say this, then, but if it's that bad you're probably going to end up replacing the parts. I would take a serious look at the price quotes to get them unstuck and compare them to 1) The price of brand-new parts and 2) The very real possibility that, if the parts can be unstuck, the threads will be too badly damaged to be used anyway.

I'm no expert. Maybe it'll all work out fine. I'm just saying that it would really suck to shell out a bit of cash and find out that you're still stuck (har har) buying new parts. I would say if it's anything approaching 25% of the price of replacing the parts, I'd just go with new. That's only my opinion, though.

[Strydur]

Send them in and I will see what I can do.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Lithium grease or WD-40 + strap wrenches = ~90% of stuck parts being unstuck.