Too Short?

[Hasselhoof]

Hi All

Just planning a build and was wondering if you guys think 4 AA's and an NB soundboard will fit is this hilt?

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a610/iCat101/ShortIn_zpsaa8fdb80.jpg (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/iCat101/media/ShortIn_zpsaa8fdb80.jpg.html)

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a610/iCat101/ShortOut_zps57a4e841.jpg (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/iCat101/media/ShortOut_zps57a4e841.jpg.html)

There is not going to be much else in there, 2 short AV momentary switches with resistors and a BuckPuck 700mA to run the LED (a Rebel Star Deep Red)

Just wondering if it will fit?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, first of all, if you are using a NB, you don't need a buckpuck. Also, a NB only takes 5V max, so you would be better using a single cell 3.7V Li-ion cell.

But, if you are dead set on using the 4 AA, then yes, your hilt is too short, plus you forgot to add a speaker. ;)

[Hasselhoof]

Was going to be using speaker mount v3 with the battery pack attached and attach the NB to it, and if I don't need the buckpuck that would be cool :) I'm doing this at work and for some reason I can't access Plecter Labs site as the net nanny stops it (no idea why).

For this saber I wanted to avoid Li ion batteries and the NB requires more voltage than 2 AAs provides, unless there is a way round it. I could lengthen the hilt but I wanted as short as possible really.

But thanks for the info :)

It would be cool if the saber builder had battery packs in it to help work out internal dimensions :)

[Silver Serpent]

NB only uses one momentary switch, so you save a bit of room there.

A 4xAAA pack http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AAA-Battery-Holder-with-JST-connector-P724.aspx can fit inside some MHS parts, but I'm not sure if it'll fit inside the ribbed section. Load it up with NiMH batteries, and it'll run the Nano board just fine.

I'd also use the short heat sink to save a little more room as well. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-new-style-Heat-Sink-V4-P841.aspx

[amwolf]

The 4AAA pack SS called out will fit the ribbed section, but it's tight and you'll need some sort of a widget to help extract it. A piece of plastic glued to the bottom worked for me.

[Hasselhoof]

Just been reading the NB PDF from Plecter Labs now I'm home and it says it does need an appropriate resistor to run the LED, so I guess the BuckPuck will be needed.

[JediRebel]

The buck puck is only needed in your set up if you don't use a sound card. Use the resistor calculator in SS's signature and select a resistor you can wire in-line. Much smaller and easier to include.

[Silver Serpent]

Buckpucks need a minimum of 5v to operate, preferably 6v or more. The NB should not be run at those voltages. Use a resistor, it's much smaller and cheaper, and it works with the NB setup.

[Hasselhoof]

Good point with space being at a premium ;)

[Solan Starr]

No puck. Short AV. Short heatsink. Single 3.7v 18500 pack. NB. Tri-Reb RRW. Run both reds with proper resistor. No problems.

Will the AV be lit? Remember the resistor there. And the constant battery draw without recharge port/killswitch.

[Hasselhoof]

Been playing around with the MHS Saber Builder and I think I will need to use the 4" double female section rather than a 3" section.

I have also been thinking of using a latching switch as a kill switch to isolate the batteries when the saber is not used. So the parts list so far is

Item
Screw on LED blade holder style 4
Luxeon Rebel Star (Deep Red)
Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
Star thermal tape pad
16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Red Ring Switch
MHS speaker mount V3
4AA Battery holder
NB Header and Wiring Harness
2W Bass Speaker
20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
MPS Pommel style 6
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 1
4-40 Nylon Screw
MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
MHS "new style" Heat Sink V4
Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
AA Dummy Cell
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) location: In the appropriate location on the Blade holder style 4 on the opposite side to the switch hole on the 4" section when tightened.
8-32 x 1/8" Set screw
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (24 inches)
• ** Double Wrap
• ** Bullet Shaped
Activation box style 18
Box 18 Mounting holes service location: In the center of the 4" double female threaded section DF4
4-40 Button Head
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
4" Double female threaded connector

I think I have everything covered :)

[Silver Serpent]

Nothing strikes me as missing from your list. I'm wondering about the 4-40 nylon screws though. What are you using those for? They're typically used to hold the LED star to the heatsink, but they're not needed for that purpose anymore with the new style heatsinks.

[Hasselhoof]

Cool, in that case I shall bin them :)

Will the latching switch isolate the battery, as long as the connections to the illuminated parts of the switches are after the latching switch?