Dual saber adapter

[Strydur]

I have made a few different dual sabers using different disconnect methods. This thread is for you to share your ideas on what type of setup you would like me to use for the modular hilts. 2 seperate end caps that hook together is what I would like to do, just need thoughts on how the 2 end caps will hook together.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

[informalmyx]

hey tim i was thinking maybe something like these http://www.pwmall.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=385

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[LAN-ED-TUL]

well you could have one cap double end threaded. and the other threaded on the inside on the end. so one cap would screw into the other. in other words, take the to outside ends and machine them so one threaded into the others end to join them. and maybe have a thumbscrew to lock it in place when together.

[Jonitus]

I think having an adapter double threaded would be a hassle. Sure, it would be strong, but what about people that want a dual bladed saber that can convert to two single bladed sabers? It would be a pain to unscrew a saber during battle.

Perhaps the end caps or pommels could be machined in such a way that there is a male and a female, and the locking mechanism is a simple 1/4 turn friction lock? The face of the pommels could be knurled to also provide additional grip. I think that would make for a secure union when used double bladed, but be easy to disconnect in battle for two-saber fighting if needed.

...how will you know the light unless you have seen the dark? How will you know the good unless you have flirted with the evil?

[LAN-ED-TUL]

your thought was kinda what i was getting at. have the threads spaced a bit larger or something like that, so as you said, a quarter turn would unlock them.

[Stumpy221]

MY first post!!! sorry its long
Anyway this is the idea i was going to keep for myself for when i order from you. its nothing special. But i guess ill share.

-take Two screw on pommels, drill holes in the center on the
bottom, do not tap them.
-in the back of each pommel (part with the threads) cut out a hex
shaped groove on the bottom for a bolt with a hex shaped head (does
no have to be deep, just enough to hold the nut and bolt), so that
the nut and blots could fit in the groove perfectly.
** This groove is an important part of the design, without it, you
would need a socket wrench to tighten everything**
-Make the nut, permanently fixed to the back of one of the pommels.
**Permanent nut is also important**
-leave the bolt loose on the other, stick the bolt through the
center hole of one of the pommels. than screw together.
This allows the hilts to retain a pommel while dueling, could separte easily, and nothing would fall. True the threads of the bolt would be sticking out, but when your swinging away, who cares if there is a little extra nub sticking out. to make sure the bolt doesn't go into the hilt, just put some tape on it.
For display of two hilts, remove the bolt (the reason why i said to leave it loose) then you have two identical sabers. then just get some type of rubber or metal cap that fit the holes. For sales purposes you can sell the caps seperately (oops).
Or you could even allow for the option of different length bolts for people who think a short bolt won't be strong enough.

2nd idea
Similar to the first.
-Still drill the center holes in both pommel
-instead of cutting out a hex groove have two tabs (that are attached to the pommel) on opposite ends of the hex screw
- and still have the bolt permenantly attched to one of the pommels

as stated above, the tabs or grooves are essential on this design because it creates a socket wrench type action. this will ensure a tight fit without have to actually use a socket wrench.

I based the screw idea from a dual saber i saw on random sabers' website pic here http://randomsabers.com/raw_images/balor.jpg

oh and happy holidays everyone.

[Tenric Starkindler]

greetings from the TJA!!
(at least from this member of it);)

I have been thinking of this topic a bit lately and wonder if ther arent some air tool couplings that would work nicely. They attach with a sort of sleeve and bearing combo that is both secure and rather easy to detach when needed....
Anyone know more about these??

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

[scaarmor]

I know a great deal about air tool couplers, as I used to be an automotive mechanic. They are the locking device I am currently working on for my sabers. But for me it would be to easy to simply drill and tap them in so I have elaborate plans to conseal them inside of a pommel/end cap and still retain all of thier lock/unlock ability. I have a few computer renderings of what I am to do but with the small font wording on them they would be unreadable to post here. Anyone who wishes to know my "little secret" I have been hiding for the last few weeks can email me at osirisnisis@cableone.net to get my renderings. I was only keeping secret until I had pics of the finished product to show- buuuuut since it is being brought up...



Cain

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

[LAN-ED-TUL]

sounds like a cool idea scaarmor. post them when you get done. im sure everyone would like to see them.

[tetmatek]

the only problem i have discovered with quick couplers is they have a bit more slop in the connection when not under pressure than i like. I use a special coupler in my paint booth made by a company called Prevost. It has a cool push button on the side for a release but it is about 3.5" long. Here's a link to them Maybe it will further your project http://www.demilleair.com/couplers.html

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3213/sig35jo.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[scaarmor]

Ok, my verdict is in for the air coupler method... It sucks.

First off, the threads of the fittings are tapered, which means the thread tap must be tapered as well. They are done this way to ensure a tight fit once screwed in, if you were to go with a regular tap the fit is very loose and sloppy. The hole required to start the tap is somewhere in the middle of the taper range, which means that the tap starts at a funny spot in the hole. Tapping the hole is a pain in the a$% to get straight and very hard to turn because you have to cut very deep threads in a deep hole.

Second, once you do get the threads cut and straight, (as Tetmatek stated) they are very sloppy. The slop of the connection itself is not much but when viewed all the way out at the tip of the blades it is sever. Which could have been dealt with in using my design idea if not for the third reason.

Third, ignoring the slop in the connection for a short while I began to play with mine as is. After three very light hits to padded surfaces-i.e. my couch, the connection snapped! After inspection I found that the break came from a place I didnt take into account- it broke at the thin walled male end at the begining of the flare ridge where the male contacts the females ball bearings, which sent the piece flying apart.

The only good thing to come from my experiments with the air couplers is I now have holes in the end caps to let the sound out when I install the speakers. Albiet threaded holes which I figure I will think of them as threaded to better the sound wave emissions of my speakers via some threaded "high tech" matrix of inovative sound flow- LOL!!! I will now stick with the idea of making permenant double sabers or single sabers. I can just as easily drop the single and pick up a double to fight with for a quick change. Besides, that means I have an excuse to build more sabers for myself with a justifiable reason to my Wife-Hehehehe...

Cain

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

[meiv4]

would like something that could be considered a pommel in its own rights, having nothing sticking out like a small nub, or threads on it.

so my idea is, on one side you cut a grove about 3/16" in from the end about 1/4-3/8 deep. leaving a lip, then cut off 1/4-3/8" of 2 sides of the end, so if you look at it from one of the cut sides you are left with a t shape. last cut an angle on a 3rd side, giving you something that looks like this from the side



__________
/ __|
___| |___
| |
| |

the pther pommel would have a rectangular hole, one side with a lip to catch the non angled section of the other pommel. then some sort of sliding bar with a spring or magnet to latch under the angled part.

hmmm hmmmm whooosh hmmmm whooosh crackel

[GreytaleNovastar1138]

BNC...?

Bayonet nut connector...? May not work, but a suggestion nonetheless. It appears a twist-lock and unlock system is the best of both worlds, i.e. quick to change out and pretty Aayla secura. Dumb joke. Shoot me. Quickly. [:)]

** The Cutting Edge **
http://www.thecuttingedge.s5.com
----
"No. Try not. DO... or do not. There is no 'try'..." -- Jedi Master Yoda, ESB
"Well... if there's a bright center to the universe, you're on the planet that is farthest from..." -- Luke, ANH

[Darth_Dadderall]

BNC= British Naval Connector
...said the Computer Networking major.

It may be a good idea to create a sleeve with twist-lock slots milled in, with flat-profile hilt cores that you can use the thumbscrews as lock pegs. A spring or sufficient measure of rubber O-rings (depending on design) could keep tension on the lock.

What is life but the passage to death?

[Slimer7]

I will eventually would like to do a double LED saber with the MHS, to seep it simple, I like the idea of two end caps where the can screw into each other, one that would have the female threading, the other with the male treading so you can disconnect them easily and have two functional sabers with a few simple twists.

[scaarmor]

What we have to remember though is that anything screwed together is going to unscrew. Even when you dont want it to. The amount of force one generates swinging around a 12" hilt with a 30-40" blade is staggering. Now take that force and think of it as leverage. Leverage that all gets transfered to the part of the object that stays mostly stationary, the handle. Now imagine all that force/ leverage X2, as you have put another one with it- double saber. And all that leverage is now being transfered to your joint that screws together, as that is the most stationary object in the chain. It will come lose mid swing- I promise you. So far I believe the best option is Tims double saber adapter, sure it takes a few moments to change into two sabers and depending on how you build it might make it impossible to have anything but a double saber. However, it is definately strong enough to handle the forces we are dealing with and is a way to make a double saber and be truly happy with your results.

Cain

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

[spidex3000]

<font face="Impact"></font id="Impact"><font size="4"></font id="size4"><font color="maroon"></font id="maroon">I think that you should thread one end to connect the others. But, for people who ant to use them as a single blade, you should allow for a threaded end cap that you could screw on so it could be used regularly, if that made any sense whatsoever.

Han, can you reach my light saber.

[michael flores]

Parks sabers has an interlocking double saber that is not on their web site. The endcaps of each saber is sort of crown shaped and the two end caps interlock / Are magnatixed for quick disconnect. I modified two darth vader Master replica lightsabers usin plastic 1/2 inch pvc fitting.

[xwingband]

Like that one... http://www.parksabers.com/doublehelix.html

Tim will probably make a simple double male piece.

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[Strydur]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Tim will probably make a simple double male piece.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Thats correct for now. The problem with making double connectors for my MHS is that it has to be made adjustable somehow so the switchs will line up. Still have not decided how I want to do that so for now I will just make a double male and the switchs probably wont line up but oh well.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

[xwingband]

How about taking a page from the MR book? The new adapter for the maul comes apart with an allen wrench. You actually pull it apart and adjust it to align the switches.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?

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[michael flores]

No not the double helix. The sabers i am refering to are only available by special request or in person at one of the Comic Cons ( San Diego 2005). Jeff only had 4 of these type available. I have a long past history with jeff and several of his sabers that i have customized ( double M4 ). I stumbled on to this site recently and wish i would have found it much earlier. Best accurate information for home built / customized light sabers i have seen in 6 years of searching.

[Hitogiri]

I think he means the inertia, it has some strong magnets on the both and each end cap looks like a Maul radiator. He had one a the Dallas con last year.

Brian

[Tenric Starkindler]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Strydur

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Tim will probably make a simple double male piece.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Thats correct for now. The problem with making double connectors for my MHS is that it has to be made adjustable somehow so the switchs will line up. Still have not decided how I want to do that so for now I will just make a double male and the switchs probably wont line up but oh well.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

if both ends are male and just scfrew into the ends it should be possible to line them up as long as each end has the same thread spacing and count....just trial and error.

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

[Do-Clo]

When the threading is done on the parts there is no guarantee that each piece will be in the exact same postion every time. A few degrees off and things won't line up.

Do-Clo

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Don't make me destroy you...

[Sithknight01]

Can you figure out how the Converta chuck couplers work so you can put those together and sell them for lightsabers? I also thought that a specially crafted Bayonet-style mount with a strong spring would make an excellent connection; you would have to put in at least six male prongs and six female grooves to recieve them so you have a greater chance of fitting it together quickly, but you could make it so that they were covered by a cylindrical covering from the outside, but that wouldn't matter when you put them together.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Holy necropost Batman!...

You might want to look at THIS thread which is more up-to-date on where we might be going with staff couplers if Strydur so decides...

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=11881