Another first build, please help me out...

[Lyzarr]

Hi There!

I am another noob which recently found out about these awesome possibilities to build up a custom lightsaber, and thus desperately needs such a thing. :)
What I did so far, was reading a lot about this stuff here on this board as well as in several other sources, so now I do know what my saber should look like and what the features should be.
Unfortunately I haven't got any knowledge in electronics and am hugely overwhelmed by the sheer amount of options offered here.

Those pre-wired parts (Modular wiring system) look to be the perfect match for my nonexistent soldering skills, but can I do all the stuff with it that I like to have in my saber?


So I kindly ask for your help to find the right pieces, so that this thing can really work.
Especially since I'm from Germany, I don't want to risk to miss some parts or chose the wrong ones, as this would result in some quite painful delays and higher costs (further shipping and customs).


First of all here's the hilt design I'd like to have:

8616


Then I'd like to have the following features:

- full sound (on, off, several motion, several clash)
- on/off light effects (dimming of LED)
- permanent pulsing/flickering of light
- clash light effects

I believe the "Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0" does all of this, right?!


Then to the light-features: I am torn between a purple light and bright white with color filters. I am fully aware of the fact, that those filters reduce the light output, but I love the idea to easily and rather quickly change the color of the blade.
Anyway which LED would you guys recommend, both purple (would be an rgb, right?) and white, and what else do I actually need for them (lens holder, thermal tape, buck puck?!)
These LED's should of course support the features I've listed above. :)

Could/should I choose an LED Module ("Rebel Star" or "Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module")?
For the Accent LED I need a "Plecter Labs Power Xtender™ Ver 2.0", right?


The blade is a no-brainer: "LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD", I tend to chose double wrap for a more profound core effect (what do you think)? Regarding the length - 36 inches is widely known as standard, right?


Then there's the speaker and the power source. I think of a Li-ion, which one do you recommend, will it fit in the hilt along with the soundboard and switch? Any suggestions regarding the speaker and which mount? "Premium Speaker" or "2W Bass Speaker" ? "MHS speaker mount V4" ?

The switch: "16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring" plus a "Bezel for illuminated switches". If I go the prewired route, there has to be soldered a JST connector to it, right? And also a resistor - would the "20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor" be the right one?


Finally, what's missing? Probably a lot of small parts... :) What about resistors?



Many, many thanks for your time and effort to help me out on this.

Regards,
Lyzarr



_____________________

The part-list so far:



MHS hilt:

- MPS Pommel style 8
- MPS Insert style 1
- MPS Clip

- 7" Fluted with standard style switch hole (or guarded style for this switch ?)
service: Drill & Tap Hole 8-32 (Covertec button)
- Machined button for Covertec clip
- 8-32 x 1/4" socket head

- MHS choke style 3

- Screw on LED blade holder style 19
service: Drill & Tap Hole 8-32 (blade retention screw)
- 8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw (long enough ?)
- MHS "new style" Heat Sink V4 (??? Tri-Rebel LED's ???)



electronics:

- Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
- Power Xtender™ 2.0 (??? for accent LED ???)
- Premium Speaker -- OR:
- 2W Bass Speaker
- Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
(but unfortunately don't ship internationally - nevertheless right fit ?)
- 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
- Bezel for illuminated switches
- 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor (??? correct one ???)

- 1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing



chassis:

- MHS speaker mount V4
- Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack (clear)
- Chassis Disc style 2 with holes
- Brass 3/16" OD tube
- Stainless 4-40 all thread
- Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex nut (4x)



blade:

- LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (double wrap, 36")

_____________________

[Silver Serpent]

You have many many questions. I'll try to answer what I can, but you have more reading ahead of you. Grab a copy of the PC2.0 manual and read through it a few times.

There are two sound boards available at TCSS. The Nano Biscotte (NB) and the Petit Crouton (PC). The NB is less expensive, but is lacking a few features. Most notable are Flash on Clash (FoC) and the onboard LED driver. The PC supports FoC and has an onboard LED driver, so that your main blade LED will not need a resistor. Other differences: The NB uses a single momentary switch and a single li-ion battery pack, while the PC uses two switches and a 7.4v li-ion pack. Both boards come in a prewired configuration for a no-solder assembly.

If you want a purple blade without soldering, then white+filter is your only option. If you want a better, brighter purple, you'll have to get an RGB LED. The Tri-Rebels are a good choice. You'll mix red+blue to get purple.

You mentioned wanting the "clash light effects" by which I'm assuming you want FoC. For that, you'll need to use a multi-die LED like the Tri-Rebel or the LEDEngin. Unfortunately, due to the wide variety of configuration options, TCSS does not offer those in a pre-soldered setup at this time. You'll have to do the soldering on those yourself, or make do without FoC.

Power Extenders are used for the FoC die on multi-die LEDs. There are other pads for connecting accent LEDs. You don't use the PEX for accent LEDs, but you will need resistors for them. If you don't want to calculate resistor values, or if you think you'll be swapping them around a good bit, then you can certainly use the DynaOhm variable resistor. It does electronic magic and runs your LEDs at the correct current all by itself. :)

Looking at your parts list, I'd like to bring a couple of things to your attention. The AV switch will not fit in a standard or guarded hole. You'll need to get the AV switch hole service to enlarge the existing hole. If you're going with a PC, you'll also want a second switch and switch hole for your aux switch.

You might also consider a recharge port. It's not mandatory, but it's nice to be able to recharge your saber without opening it up.

I'm sure there's more, but that should be enough for you to read and digest for now. Read, read, and read some more. Be sure to post a complete parts list for us to check over before you buy. There's ALWAYS something you leave out. Trust me, I know from experience. :)

[Lyzarr]

First of all many thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated!


I'd neither want a recharge port, nor a kill switch btw., but yes, I definitely like to have the following features:

- Blade ignition/de-ignition (fade in and dim out)
- Blade flicker (like in the movies)
- Flash on Clash (white)


So I'll take the "MWS Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0". I know that there has to be further soldering done for some features, but that way most of the work has been done.

Regarding the LED I have decided to take a white one to be able to easily change the color via filters.
Since I'd also like to have FoC, the "Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star" doesn't seem to be the right choice, as it doesn't give me both white (for color filters) plus FoC in white, correct?!

So it has to be either one of these two:
- LED Engin LZ4 10W Single Color (LZ4-20CW00 = White)
- LED Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color (LZ4-20MD00=RGBW (red,green,blue,white)) - as rgb together gives white + white for FoC

On both soldering seems to be very complicated, but anyways. Any suggestions which one would be better suited / easier to handle?


So the FoC LED in this configuration really needs a "Power Xtender™ 2.0" and a resistor (3W ? or better yet the "DynaOhm").


On to the power button... thanks for the heads up regarding the enlargement of the existing hole - would have missed this one.

In the PC-2.0 manual the "Wiring a general Power-On Indicator" (page 21) is described, but which resistor has to be used on the positive wire?
Furthermore I'd like the power LED in the "16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring" just be active when I pushed the button and the saber is powered on. If I understand the manual (again, page 21) correctly, the power indicator is active as soon as the power package is connected. Since I don't want to use a killswitch, the power button LED would always be on.

Then what about this aux switch - do I really need one, is this mandatory? My understanding is that I get an ongoing clash-sound for the duration this button is pressed. I would rather pass on this one and go "simple" (at least regarding this part :) ) as it would actually take up quite some more space...
But when it is mandatory, which button would you suggest?
Maybe a "SPST Momentary tactile switch" along an "Activation box style 17" as well as "Box 9,10, and 17 Mounting holes service"...?!


Finally, would be the power pack (Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module) appropriate, or would you suggest anything else.


Again, many thanks for your help. It is most appreciated.

Regards,
Lyzarr

[Silver Serpent]

With the features you have requested, you'll need the Petit Crouton. The Nano Biscotte will do everything except the FoC.

For wiring up a LEDEngin, I'll send you to this post: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13703-LEDengin-5w-and-10W-info-and-wiring-guide-for-noobs

An option for Tri-Rebel: Since you mentioned wanting purple, you could do red+blue for the main blade, with the green die for FoC giving you white (r+b+g) on clash events. If you want white with white FoC, you are correct about needing a LEDEngin. They're a fair bit crankier when soldering than the Rebels. I recommend grabbing a cheap coffee cup warmer to preheat the LEDEngin before soldering. :)

The DynaOhm resistor is good for accent LEDs ONLY. It only outputs 20mA of current. Your FoC LED is going to need 700mA-1000mA, depending on the LED(s) you're using. You will need a Power Extender (PEX) with the FoC, I calculate all my resistors with this site: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Aux switch is not strictly mandatory, but you lose several features without it. The blade lockup is one, plus blaster block, and Anti-Poweroff Protection (A-POP). A-POP is good if you find yourself accidentally hitting the power button while swinging your saber around. It prevents accidental power-down events.

Activation boxes are nice, as they allow you to install a number of switches, recharge ports, etc, all in a convenient location. I'm very fond of them myself.

You want a 7.4v pack with the PC and LEDEngin. A 3.7v pack just isn't going to give you enough power to run everything.

[Lyzarr]

Thanks again Silver Serpent!

I just started making a final list of the whole stuff for this build...

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

You can't do a white FoC with filters, unless you do a tri-rebel all white, then cut out a smaller circle from the larger circle, and lineup the filter with the correct clash die each time you want to change the filter. Ledengin have all dies under a single lens. If you filter it, so is the FoC.

[Weaver]

I can't add much to what's been said, except that you will need practice. I was one of those who had no interest in anything but wiring my first saber. However, this goes further than just assembling a prop. There are general principles that need learning first. Above all, you will need to learn basic soldering skills and will need a passable knowledge of basic electronics. This is not as unapproachable as it seems, fortunately.

Electricity is sane, logical, and predictable. When given a path, electrons will follow that path. The study of electronics is the knowledge of which paths to give, when a particular result is desired. It is nothing mythical and it is definitely possible to learn; even for a layman like myself.

It will be hard and it will take much work, but it will be absolutely worth it. What I have learned in the past year is absolutely priceless to me. The applications go far beyond just sabers; you can apply the knowledge to practically anything electronic. Just remember to take your time, read everything, and study as many builds as you can.

Some will help and offer their expertise. Some will give you a hard time for not already knowing what to do. Don't give up. Ask your questions, but be sure to study as much as you can beforehand. There are many people who are oversensitive to questions which have already been asked and answered. Searching for results through Google and the forum search can be invaluable.

The most important thing is to be open-minded and ready to learn. If you want, I can talk about some of the ideas I have had through PM. I can also refer you to more experienced people on this and other forums. It will take patience, but it is so worth it. This, like any other trade skill, will be difficult but rewarding.

[Lyzarr]

Thanks Ari-Jaq-Xulden, for this valuable hint. But this one I already knew. Without using the method you described, FoC will be just be brighter or maybe somewhat lighter in colour. That'll be just fine. :)

And also many thanks for your kind words and encouragement, as well as your offer to share some ideas, BlessedWrath. I really appreciate that!

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

Thanks Ari-Jaq-Xulden, for this valuable hint. But this one I already knew. Without using the method you described, FoC will be just be brighter or maybe somewhat lighter in colour. That'll be just fine. :)

Not sure where you get such a notion, but the only thing that will make it brighter or lighter would be driving the FoC die with different amperage than the main dies.