Blinking accent LEDS.

[silentsteeple]

Hey everyone, i have a quick question. whats the easiest way to achieve blinking accent LEDs with a Master Replicas soundboard thats converted to run a Lux LED? Is there a resistor or a small type capacitor that will release current to the LEDs in a constant cycle? Also, has anyone attempted to use two clash sensor (or one), like the ones found in M.R. sabers or TCSS, to create a poor-mans F.O.C.? Or, has anyone tried to use the clash sensor to transfer current to an RGB diode, instead of sending the current to the soundboard? I would assume a LED driver or buckpuck would be needed to keep the correct amount of voltage to the essential elements of the saber. I know these are very broad questions, with lots of factors that vary from situation to situation.
Based on this type set up(see Fig,1) any info on the accent LED question and the poor-mans F.O.C. experiment, any input would be greatly appreciated.
Fig. 1: >10w RGBW main LED
-for the FOC setup-Blue as main color/green and red for clash
-normal set up would be Blue and red in series
>M.R. Vader soundboard from a strand LED setup
>3, 5mm accent LEDs
>latching Green activation switch.
Thanks!
Silent Steeple

[Silver Serpent]

Easiest way to get blinking accent LEDs with a MR board is to purchase blinking LEDs. They're not at TCSS, but I know Radio Shack sells them.

Poor man's FoC won't work the way you envision it. The clash sensor is a tiny switch, and it closes on impact. The issue is that it only remains closed for the briefest fraction of a second, and it's not enough time to power a LED long enough for your eyes to notice.

You'd need to build some kind of timing circuit that activates on a clash event. It's certainly possible to do, but you'll likely come out ahead in time, materials, and effort if you just get a sound board that supports it natively. Unless of course, you just want to build the circuitry for the challenge of it. Nothing wrong with that approach, but it's outside my area of expertise.