Resistor and hilt coatings

[JediMindFlip]

Got my first MHS kit from TCSS and had it put together PDQ. I do however have a few noob questions tho. One, is the resistor really necessary? I was not prepared to have the leads on the LED/heatsink assembly be so short, so I didn't have the extras I needed right then. I will rewire my rig when I pull the electronics for question two. I cant find a good way to secure it inside so it rattles and other than hard mounting it to my battery pack (not a bad idea), but do I really need it?
Two; Other than powder coating what is the best way to keep my hands from turning black during my training sessions? Looks secondary, what going to go on nicely and be really sticky to the aluminum so it wears for a good long period. I gotta look into getting a powder coat rig for the cave, but till then suggestions on brand name stuff available in the US would be awesome. Be it spray on, roll on, brush on, epoxy on, I'm sure you get the point:) Seems like sacrilege to have to wrap it up in athletic tape to keep from soaking up to much heavy metal lol.

[Silver Serpent]

1. Is the resistor necessary? I'd say yes, though I'll need to know more about your setup to be sure. What are you using for power? Which LED are you using? Sound? LEDs can only be pushed so far before they go "pop" and the resistor keeps them from doing so.

2. A few coats of clear enamel spray paint should do the trick. You can do matte or glossy, depending on your preference. Bake it afterwards in a toaster oven to get it properly cured. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12093-Part-Painting-and-Baking-Tutorial has some great tips in it.

[JediMindFlip]

Ok. cool. I thought of like 5 different things I could do after posting this. Right now I am running a Rebel Star Cyan led on a MHS heatsink with a 5 watt 3.3 ohm resistor utilizing a 4 AA 3 volt pack on a recessed latching switch. Its all apart now for coatings, but if you or anyone else cold tell me if I really need the resistor would be helpful when I put the saber back together.

[Silver Serpent]

If you actually have a 3v battery pack, then you won't need the resistor.

Most of the time, a 4xAA alkaline battery pack is 6v, and that would definitely blow the LED. If all 4 batteries are wired in series, then it's 6v. If you have two pair in series, both sets wired in parallel, then it could be 3v, but this is uncommon (and usually custom built).

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz gives a value of 2.7ohm @1000mA and 6v for a Rebel Cyan, though the 3.3ohm is perfectly fine.

Double-check the way your battery pack is set up. If it's 3v, no resistor is needed, but you'll be underpowering the LED. It needs 3.4v to run properly. If it's 6v, then you'll need the resistor.

[JediMindFlip]

Ok, I flubbed the way I was looking at the battery pack, 2 sets of AA in series makes a 3v pack x 2 is 6 v. Ok, I need the stupid resistor, nutz. Think that I am going to figure out a way to mount the resistor to the battery pack this time and solider in some longer connections. Taking pics as I go along here, will post them up when Im done. Thanks for your help.

[Silver Serpent]

A little extra wire, solder, heatshrink on the joints, and some double-sided foam tape to attach your resistor someplace secure, and you'll be good to go.

[JediMindFlip]

Ok, here is what came out of a lot of trial and error, a lot of error. I started thinking that I would document the process, but got so involved in the process I for got to document, next time.
Here is where I started.
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From there I went and did a Dupli-Color Metalcast Anodized paint in red for the emitter, I also used it on the pommel, not sure I like the red.
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The main body I gave a major scuff to and coated with Dupli-Color Bed armor. I also tried to get it to stick to the ribs, but it was half gone in a single training session. And because the stuff it REALLY runny, its hard to tape stuff off effectively.
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I tried doing some color in the ribs. I used a Dupli-color clover green pearl auto touch up paint and then went back and hit the silver areas that the bed armor came off of a coat of universal flat black and oven cured it for an hour. As its freezing cold today, will have to wait and see how the oven cure works on bare alum. At end of day, realize you need to acid etch prime to really get stuff to stick. Next saber.
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[JediMindFlip]

Here is the rig I put together for the resistor.
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