Obi Saber epIII, classic style

[Robeewankenobe]

2" Double female threaded connector
Screw on LED blade holder style 8
MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2
Ribbed grooved / Choke Combo
Activation box style 1 (updated design)
MHS Gear
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
LED Engin LZ4 10W Single Color (Blue)
MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder
2W Bass Speaker
MWS Guarded Style Latching Switches
MPS Insert style 1
MPS Pommel style 3 v2

Thank you
Best Wishes

Rob

[amwolf]

Heads up - according to the Nano's specs, it uses a Momentary switch. And, since I'm curious, why the LedEngin vs a solitary rebel or P4?

[Silver Serpent]

Indeed. LEDEngins are difficult to power properly without at least 2 li-ions. Unfortunately, the Nano only takes a single li-ion. If you intend to use the 2xAA holder, you'll want one 14500 li-ion and a AA-sized dummy cell. You could easily run a single Seoul P4, Rebel, or even a Tri-Rebel (wired in parallel) for more efficient use of your available power.

amwolf is also correct about the switch. You'll need a momentary with the Nano.

Also, don't forget the MPS clip to hold your pommel insert in place. A blade retention screw is also recommended.

[Johannes Huber]

Silver Serpent has a very good idea with the tri-rebel if you are looking for a bright blade. It works beautifully with the NB (I'm using one in a build right now) and if you combine it with an 18650 lith-ion battery you could pack the NB over the battery in Tim's acrylic chassis disk set up and it will all be no bigger than the length of the battery and the ID of the MHS parts. You would also get a larger selection of colors to choose. All you need to be careful of is not to exceed the max current useable for the NB (2000mA) but that would be just as much of a limitation, if not more, on an LEDEngin since they are...hungry for current and with 4 LEDs to drive, you could only give each one 500mA vs. the Tri rebel at with 666 mA and a lower intended current usage as well as a lower Vf. I'll also agree that the LEDEngins are difficult to solder and the tri-rebels are quite a bit more straight forward. Good luck on the build and keep us posted:D.

[Robeewankenobe]

Well, what I am looking for is the brightest saber blade with long lasting charge. I do saber shows and not switching out batt for while is a plus in my book. Also, I am not the best in soldering a more simple approach would be best.
So, What should I get when I looking for ta bright blue saber with saber sounds? suggestion?

[Lord Dottore Matto]

dump the 2W speaker. You only need the 1 W (could be 1.5 now, but you don't need the 2). Use a single blue rebel (or P4) for the longest run time, or a BBW with BB in // if you need to go brighter, but it will decrease run time. Buying both and having them on QD's is a good idea, that way you can use what you like at any given time. Other than that, the Nano would be fine (only 1 battery at a time though with one slug or a rechargeable 18650 fro much longer run time). Of course, you could more than adequately run the BBW with the 7.4V pack with a PCv2 instead of the nano (more difficult ot solder, but there are pre-made modules for your pleasure). You can also use a latching switch for hte PC, but not the nano and if you do go PC, you need 2 switches (1 mom at least, but you can use two mom if you want and no latching switch at all).

[Robeewankenobe]

Ok, how does this sound...
2" Double female threaded connector
Screw on LED blade holder style 8
Ribbed grooved / Choke Combo
MHS Gear
MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder
MPS Insert style 1
MPS Pommel style 3 v2
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
NB MWS Header and Wiring Harness
Activation box style 8
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)