View Full Version : Wiring Help

03-19-2013, 12:19 AM
OK. So.....after long debate, I think I have the set up I want figured out. I just want to make sure this set up will work. I'm going for a basic set up, no sound, and an illuminated switch. I only want the switch to illuminate when the blade is turned on. Here's what I'm thinking in full, hilt and all:

Hilt style 4 modified for AV switch
AV switch(latching) long, orange ring(should I go with the short switch and ditch the bezel?)
4AA Battery holder with JST connector
Rebel Star LED and MHS Heatsink module(amber) with JST connector
MWS BuckPuck 700 mA
Brass bezel for AV switch
Pommel style 3
Not quite sure on the blade holder yet, probably something with claws(sith style saber)

I'm new to this whole electronic thing, so any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I'm not sure if I've understood all of the tutorials correctly or not. Hence the post. Please help. I don't plan to run a soundboard right now. I guess this would be considered a "stunt" saber. Honestly, I'm just trying to get into the hobby and would like some help on my first saber. Eventually, I plan on upgrading to a soundboard, recharge port, possibly a crystal chamber, etc. Any and all help/advice from all of you experienced builders will be taken with the upmost respect. Thanks.

Silver Serpent
03-19-2013, 05:27 AM
Since you're going with JST connectors on most of your items, might I suggest using this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-BuckPuck--P748.aspx for your buckpuck? It has prewired connections for your accent LED in the switch, as well as a place for your switch LED resistor.

You will need a resistor for the switch LED in any case. The long AV orange ring switch has a Forward Voltage of 2.0v and needs 20mA to run properly. I assume you're planning on using AA alkaline batteries, so your source voltage is 6v. Plug those values into a led resistor calculator like http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz and you'll find an appropriate resistor to keep from frying your switch LED. In your case, it would be http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/220ohm-14w-resistor-P25.aspx

As for the long switch with bezel, or short switch without bezel, that's entirely up to you. It all depends on how you want the saber to look. The saber will function the same either way, it's just a matter of personal taste. Good luck with your build, and if you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.

04-11-2013, 11:47 AM
The resistor goes in line from the buckpuck to the switch, right? Everything else will essentially be plug and play?

The Yin
04-11-2013, 12:41 PM
Your buckpuck will be for your main(blade) LED.

The resistor is needed for the LED in the switch. Since the switch does not have one built in.

Also, as to rather you want the short or the long switch; the short is easier to wire up, there are less leads on it. The long one is a more complex switch that can be used to run two circuits though one switch but alternate between off/on or on/off or have both on or both off, now I've lost myself . . .

04-13-2013, 12:09 PM
Right, but I would place the resistor between the buckpuck and the switch to keep from frying the led in that? Sorry, I'm new to wiring small electronics and just want to make sure I get it right the first time and prevent the purchase of another switch. So, to make sure I understand completely...

The battery pack will plug into the battery lead on the puck. The led will plug into the led lead on the puck. Since the switch doesn't have the pre wired jst connector, I will cut that off the switch lead, wire the resistor in line between the lead and the switch. I'm assuming it doesn't matter whether it's on the positive or negative wire?

Is that correct? Thanks for all the help.