Set up for a friend's saber.

[CGompertz09]

Hello all! Looking for a little input here. A friend of mine has asked me to help him build a saber, and here is a list of the electronics going into it.

Tri-Rebel A/A/W LED –
Latching switch (Amber LED?) –
1000mAh Buck Puck –
7.4V 14650 1050mAh Li-Ion battery pack –
Kill key/recharge port -

For this set up, would I need to use the 4 or 6-wire puck-buck?

[CGompertz09]

Sorry for the Double post, wanted to bump this to get the question answered as my friend wants to order the parts soon. For the set up listed in the above post, would i need a 4-wire or 6-wire Buckpuck? And an additional question, would a recharge port still work on a stunt set up like this, or is that just a good idea with soundboards?

[TrypWyr]

If I'm looking at this right, you would need the 4-wire. It looks like the other 2 wires are for a specific purpose:


The REF and CTL wire leads can be used to attach a linear taper potentiometer so that you can adjust the brightness.

If you don't plan on doing that, save a buck (pun intended) and get the cheaper 4-wire.

As for a recharge port, go for it. You could charge the batteries without opening the saber. A killkey wouldn't really do much other than act as a "safety", requiring that it be pulled before using the latching switch. You might consider getting the MWS Buckpuck (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-BuckPuck--P748.aspx), it's already wired for an accent LED (if you are planning on a AV switch) and is really easy to use on account of the screw terminals and JST connectors.

EDIT: If you are planning on using a lighted switch with the normal buckpuck, just make sure you either wire the switch LED to only come on when the main LED comes on, or use the killkey to kill power to the switch LED when not in use. The MWS buckpuck already has the switch LED active with the main LED so a killkey wouldn't be required.

Good luck!

[CGompertz09]

Oh yea, I completely forgot about the MWS Puck. That'll help keep things simple. Thanks!