PCv2 troubleshooting

[Ty_Bomber]

So I just finished my first MHS build and most everythig seems to be in good shape, except the foc and the accent leds aren't working. I wasn't sure if this would be a config problem, as I left everything as defaults with the exception of the main LED which I lowered to 750 to be safe. Should I check my config file again or just upload some photos of my wiring?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

So I just finished my first MHS build and most everythig seems to be in good shape, except the foc and the accent leds aren't working. I wasn't sure if this would be a config problem, as I left everything as defaults with the exception of the main LED which I lowered to 750 to be safe. Should I check my config file again or just upload some photos of my wiring?

You'd better post those pics, so we can see what you did. make sure you do a few (wide shots) and then close ups of the PEX, and the PC2. and any relevant connections. ;)

[Ty_Bomber]

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x444/HeroofEverything/3E957437-8E64-4AFC-877C-D25786979ED3-3904-000007070FB1208E_zps02ae598a.jpg

Here is a close up of the Power Extender, any constructive criticism of the wiring is welcome.

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x444/HeroofEverything/492CEFE2-5697-4EF7-87B4-F74ABD20B7CD-3904-000007086EA250C8_zpsc366fb9c.jpg

And here is the wiring for the accent leds. I struggled to squeeze the two negative leads to the ground on the board. Again, let me know if anything is amiss.

[hedgehog1]

Isn't there supposed to be a resistor on the PEX (between the orange and white wires)? Right now I don't think you have a complete circuit for FOC, and that is why FOC isn't working. Still looking for the accessory cause.

EDIT: I see the manual for the PC on the TCSS site shows the older style PEX (page 23). You have the newer style PEX where the positive leads are not bridged anymore, and a resistor is expected to be added to complete the circuit. I think this may have caused the confusion on the PEX.

[hedgehog1]

What color are the negative accent LED wires? I see you used two black wires for the button grounds. Is it the orange and green for the negatives of the accent LEDs?

As a general note, when things are crowed like this, the negatives of both switches can be connected away from the board, and a single negative wire get soldered onto the board. The same for the accent LED negatives, they can be combined away from the board, and a single wire is connected to the board. I have to look over the PC manual, but I think you can go with many of the signal level negatives common and have fewer wires soldered onto the board directly; but that is another topic.

EDIT: Can you show us the wiring of the accent LEDs themselves (if possible)?

[Ty_Bomber]

The two yellow are the (+) for each led and the green and orange are wired together for the ground return. I had thought of splicing the wires further up, but was concerned about how sturdy it would be. Can't be any less secure than my current set up though, can it? Maybe I will practice with some scrap wire and see how comfortable I am with it when I disassemble/reassemble for the polishing and painting.

[hedgehog1]

Wiring in a constricted space like this is as much art as science.

Do you have heat shrink to insulate those off-board connections? That is a good thing to have for this kind of work.

[Silver Serpent]

Hedgehog is correct. It's easier to connect a single wire to the board and then splice further up.

As for the FoC, you can either bridge the + connection, or just disconnect both + wires from the PEX and connect them together. Either way will work.

[Ty_Bomber]

Seems when I trimmed the leass off my accent Leds, I forgot which one was which and wired the accent leds backwards. Does that mean they are dead and I need to order new ones or can I just switch em when I reassemble?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Seems when I trimmed the leass off my accent Leds, I forgot which one was which and wired the accent leds backwards. Does that mean they are dead and I need to order new ones or can I just switch em when I reassemble?

No, they should be fine, but if they don't work one way, then reverse the wires on the LED's to try them the other way.

[Ty_Bomber]

Will do. Thanks for the heads up.

[hedgehog1]

With any hope - you should have a fully armed and operational battle station -- ummm -- I mean a fully operational light saber very soon.

That is, until you take the saber apart again... :D

[Ty_Bomber]

Haha. Yeah, that is the plan. This is all really just the test install. Once I know all the "features" work, it will be time to take it apart, paint it, do a (cleaner) reinstall, then send it out the door again. Sigh.