Help with a us guardian hilt for led module

[whitmers]

I an completely rewiring replacing all the internals of an Ultrasabers guardian with tcss bits. I have several led engins that I want to be able to to swap in and out as the mood strikes me. The issue that I am having is that I can't figure out which heat sink option is the way to go. the heatsink/ led module that came with it is one inch wide and I know (after a wrong order on my part) that the new style sink/module won't work as it is too large.

if you can point in me in the right direction, I would be very appreciative. Thanks!

[hedgehog1]

I ran into the same issue with my 'arbiter' from US. The pommels are no problem between MHS and US, but the Emitters/Blade Holders are a very different design. US LED module put the heat sink down into the piece below the Emitter/Blade Holder, while the MHS design put the heat sink up into the Emitter/Blade Holder.

So you have to use the US LED heat sink with a US Emitter, or use the MHS LED heat sink with MHS blade holder.

What I did to make it possible to move my LED engines between the two style of heat sinks was: I cut 4 slots to 4 holes in the copper heat sink. I cut them through the threads into the wire holes so I can move the LEDs themselves without having to change/resolder the wiring. The first time I used a hack saw to cut the slots, The second time I used a my new 'rotary tool' (think high-end Dremel) with a metal cutoff blade to cut the slots. This allows me to move LEDs between the heat sink styles quickly.

The reality is that while US says the emitters are MHS compatible, they really are semi-compatible. The US heat sink may are may not work depending on what MHS part the emmiter is attached to.

[hedgehog1]

I just took this photo showing a US Emitter, Heat-Sink and body section from my US arbiter unit:

http://imageshack.us/a/img823/8779/usheatsinksize.jpg

You will notice that the heat sink sits well into the section under the emitter, in this case blocking 1/2 of the button hole. US resolves this by putting an large extension between the emitter and the body sections. I have found that one of Tim'3 3/4 inch extensions is just enough to allow the switch to clear.

As a side note: that red thumb screw is one of Tim's red anodized units. I love these things! Lots of fun colors, too.

[hedgehog1]

Here was the only 'slotted' heat sink not installed in a saber I had lying around:

http://imageshack.us/a/img252/5178/slottedheatsink.jpg

The slots in this unit are much bigger then they need to be. I was playing with a new rotatory tool and new metal cut-off blade. I got a little carried away. It happens...

[whitmers]

making slots is a good idea, I hadn't thought of that... I don't really want to cut and resolder right now, so I will make that a project for the future and maybe try it that way. I think next time I have to buy some part from them, i'll buy one of these and do what you did. I'm finding out more about the sorta compatable, probably why they have lots of compaiblte pommel sections, not so many emitter sections. Thanks for the ideas.

[ricochettinman]

I actually have a question about the blade holder style 20... will it work fine with the ultrasabers shock?