Lux 3w Problem

[GFORCE13]

Well I finally took my Hilt apart and I am having a problem that during medium hard impacts my Led goes off but you can restart it, I did notice when I took the emmiter apart that it is cracked, I have the setup using Corbins Driver, Hasbro Sound Board and Force Resonator. I tried tapping the Led when it was on and nothing,I checked all the wires and they are making a good connection, does anybody have an idea?

[james3]

By cracked are you referring to the dome? If that 's the case then just replace it as sooner or later she will go for good. I have had and seen a few K2's pop their dome now and are junk.

[xwingband]

Well assuming it's a momentary... the switches Tim sells seem to be twitchy with Corbin's board. I have the same impact problem.

I don't know what you mean by cracked though. :?:

[GFORCE13]

Unfortunately the crack is right in the middle of the dome almost all the way across and at least 1mm deep and I am using Corbins Graflex Pushbutton switch which is a DPDT to control both the Driver and Sound Board at the same time. On the plus side now I can update the Lux to a K2. :D

[james3]

Just keep in mind that the K2 domes are even softer. Make sure you get a lens holder shaped for it as well. the LUX III is round and the K2 is square.

They do have a little more mojo though :D

If ya really want to go all out the Corbin driver will run a 5w :shock: then just add a relay or regulator for the sound. It's another option anyway :wink:

[GFORCE13]

A quick followup question I did replace it with a brand new K2 but my friend is making a Sith Pimp Costume and he has a staff with a crystal with a Holo Yoda on top and I was thinking of using my old Lux to light it from underneath for C4. How critical is heatsinking it since he would only turn it on and off mometarly or how could I build a temporary heat sink? It just has to last 5 Days.

[Ryma Mara]

go to the lows home depot and look for some thick as hell washer and thermal adhesive.

[Novastar]

Geforce... you probably wouldn't need a heatsink if he's turning it on momentarily, but using one of Tim's + the nylon screws to hold the star in place is awesome.

To this day, I don't know of an easier, more "all-in-one" setup over Tim's blade/LEDmount/sink/emitter setups.

It's easily easily EASILY worth $15 to $20 for whatever model you choose, and if you don't want to pay THAT...

...just get the heatsink with screws. I think maybe it's $8.50.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-649-21-quick-change-led-kit.aspx

For $8.. you're sure of the following:

* LED is mounted, not coming off
* Better sinking than just using "any old sink"
* Supporting Tim's site/biz
* Later on, easy to mount into a saber

Enjoy... :)

[GFORCE13]

Yeah finished it today and there was no room for a heatsink but it turned out great we used a chrome shower rod and sink drain pipe with the 90Degree for the lever and large Crystal shower Knob with Holo Emperor on top the main pipe only had a 1"Dia but I did install a Momentary switch and the correct resistor and hot glued the Lux to the bottom of the Knob and man is it bright it also has a large open area below it for cooling. I did warn him to only use it sparringly and let it cool off in between, he will be premiering it at C4, sorry no pic's it is Compartmentalized for now. :wink: