First Build

[JediEngineer]

Hey. I'm new to the whole lightsaber building but since I'm a huge star wars fan and always had an interest in engineering, I figured it's time for me to design and build a couple of lightsabers.

Because I'm new at this I figured I'd start with a simple design. It includes:
Main Body style 4
Blade Holder style 18
Pommel style 4
Choke style 3
LED color white (with the 12 color disks)
36" TCSS battle blade 1"OD

8215
Powder Coating color = Copper Metallic

The wiring is the basic kit but with the white latching switch because I've done more complex wiring and felt it would give a better overall look to the hilt.

Unfortunately I can't start the project because of the powder coating situation but I'd love to know what you fellow Force-users think so far

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the forums.

It looks pretty good for a beginning saber. Are you planning to put sound into it?

[JediEngineer]

Nah not on this one but I'm starting to design and plan out another hilt with the sound built in. I'm having a bit of trouble with the chassis design/planning but that's why there's these forums

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Nah not on this one but I'm starting to design and plan out another hilt with the sound built in. I'm having a bit of trouble with the chassis design/planning but that's why there's these forums

True. Well make sure you do a lot of reading and going through the galleries. You'll likely find what you seek. ;)

[Darth Ryo]

Nah not on this one but I'm starting to design and plan out another hilt with the sound built in. I'm having a bit of trouble with the chassis design/planning but that's why there's these forums

Hey and welcome,

Nice design to start with!
Regarding the chassis, you'll find a lot of possibilities from chassis disk in the store to custom PVC chassis you'd cut and sand yourself. Just browse, look at the galery and gather ideas for what would fit your needs most ;)
Above all, enjoy!

[JediEngineer]

Had to change the design up a bit, but this is what I got:
Hilt style 4
pommel style 6
MHS choke style 1 (2.5in)
blade holder style 6
36" TCSS battle blade 1"OD
MPS insert style 8
Machined button for Covertec clip

8278

THe electronics are;
Seoul P4 LED color white (with the 12 color disks)
white AV latching switch
150ohm 1/4w resistor (for AV switch)

Instead of using the resistor for the main LED I would like to use the 1000mA buckpuck.If I use the buckpuck, can I still do a quick change to a Seoul P4 Red LED?

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

You'll be good with that but it'll shorten the life on the red as it runs at 3V/700 mA & the white runs at 4V/1000 mA. I'd just filter the white and not worry about it.

[Silver Serpent]

The P4 reds can handle 1000mA. You're unlikely to notice any shortened lifespan.

Now Rebel reds are another matter. They normally go *poof* at 1000mA.

[JediEngineer]

Took a while but I basically finished my first saber. I had no problems except blowing out the AV switch ring LED but I can always replace it. I've been thinking about adding a Li-ion battery and recharge port later on. All that's left is for me to think about what color to powder coat it (I gotta guy). It took about a half hour just playing with the color discs to find a great color that I like and I'm lovin it. Can't wait to duel my friends with it (and show it off in the process) :D :D :D :D

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:cool:Me in my Boba fett sweatshirt
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And just for laughs
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[Starwinder]

Congrats on completing your first saber JediEngineer! You've taken your first step into a larger world. Looks really functional with great grip areas for dueling with.
Try not to get too addicted with saber building! :p

[Silver Serpent]

Indeed! Congrats on your first build!

Watch your wallet closely. This hobby is addicting :)

[Battle_1]

Had to change the design up a bit, but this is what I got:
Hilt style 4
pommel style 6
MHS choke style 1 (2.5in)
blade holder style 6
36" TCSS battle blade 1"OD
MPS insert style 8
Machined button for Covertec clip

8278

THe electronics are;
Seoul P4 LED color white (with the 12 color disks)
white AV latching switch
150ohm 1/4w resistor (for AV switch)

Instead of using the resistor for the main LED I would like to use the 1000mA buckpuck.If I use the buckpuck, can I still do a quick change to a Seoul P4 Red LED?

Welcome to the forums, man, but did anybody realize something? Unless this is the fluted 7" extension with an AV switch hole drilled in, it wont work. (To my understanding(Isnt it for main bodies section for guarded and standard only?))

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the forums, man, but did anybody realize something? Unless this is the fluted 7" extension with an AV switch hole drilled in, it wont work. (To my understanding(Isnt it for main bodies section for guarded and standard only?))

While you are generally correct... you do realize that the build in question was already finished (pics are 2 posts after what you quoted).... right??? ;)

[Silver Serpent]

Enlarging a switch hole is not a particularly difficult process. Drill press, dremel, hand files, all work just fine. Some methods are faster and give cleaner results than others.

[Battle_1]

While you are generally correct... you do realize that the build in question was already finished (pics are 2 posts after what you quoted).... right??? ;)

Hahahaha wow. Im so smart. Didnt realize that lol

[JediEngineer]

Enlarging a switch hole is not a particularly difficult process. Drill press, dremel, hand files, all work just fine. Some methods are faster and give cleaner results than others.
Silver Serpent is right, wasn't that hard to enlarge the hole for the av switch. Only difference is that i used a milling machine that i have access at work.... Also with the same concept i ended up drilling and tapping a new hole for the newly added recharge port (right in the covertech knob!) :

86978696

[Barefacedpuma48]

Sup guys, my first saber is looking to be pretty similar to JediEngineers. Any idea what caused the LED in the switch to blow out? Wrong resistor? Wiring error? Bad switch?

[Silver Serpent]

Hard to say without more information. Need to know voltage of your power supply, which specific switch you used, and the resistor you wired in. Bad switch is possible, but unlikely. Either photos of your wiring, or a wiring diagram would be helpful as well.

My gut instinct suggests that you have the wrong resistor for your switch LED, but I can't be certain until you tell us more.

[Barefacedpuma48]

I havent finished mine yet, I just wanted to try to prevent whatever it was that caused JediEngineers LED to blow out.

With a 4AA pack at 6v and an Anti Vandal latching red I need a 220ohm 1/4 watt resistor. All straight forward and easy to find out, however it looks like he also used the correct resistor for his switch but it still blew. I guess I just wanted to know if there was something else I needed to watch out for.

[Silver Serpent]

I don't recall the exact issue. It may have been a problem with the wiring diagram. I vaguely recall it getting sorted out in the chatbox.

[Yoshi-Taka]

Also with the same concept i ended up drilling and tapping a new hole for the newly added recharge port (right in the covertech knob!) :

86978696

Okay, that's cool! I'm assuming after drilling the hole, you tap the hole and use the recharge port as, basically, a screw to hold the wheel in place?

[JediEngineer]

That's right Yoshi-taka, but i didnt tap the hole, i tapped the covertech knob. And for all you guys asking about the led blowout... It was my fault entirely, the resistor was correct but when i checked it i didnt realize a small solder bridge between the leads

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Also with the same concept i ended up drilling and tapping a new hole for the newly added recharge port (right in the covertech knob!) :
86978696

Ok. I second Yoshi-Taka, that is a really cool idea. How does it look stability/durability wise?

[Yoshi-Taka]

That's right Yoshi-taka, but i didnt tap the hole, i tapped the covertech knob. And for all you guys asking about the led blowout... It was my fault entirely, the resistor was correct but when i checked it i didnt realize a small solder bridge between the leads

Right, that's what I meant. Will the covertec wheel still function well without damaging the recharge port (or at least, do you think so)? I definitely wanna do that in a future saber.

[Silver Serpent]

It *can* be done, but there will be extra stress on the recharge port. The recharge ports are one of the more easily damaged components on a saber, so be aware that it may need replacing in the future. Also consider using something to help attach the covertec knob in addition to the recharge port. Glue, epoxy, JB-Weld. It'll be a permanent attachment, but you'll keep some of the stress off the recharge port.

[Yoshi-Taka]

Kinda like the kill key that looks like a covertec wheel: not the safest idea but looks cool. Duly noted.
I suppose that gives me an excuse to use two covertec wheels on a saber, which something I've been wanting to do anyway.

[JediEngineer]

Silver Serpent is right about the stress of the recharge port, but I did use a bit of epoxy just in case. And as a "durability test" I walked around with it attached to the belt clip for like two days (including a game of manhunt of running and jumping around) and it holds pretty well.

[Craevn]

Spiffy Idea, good call on the Epoxy for stress relief!