Ok, seems too simple. What am I missing?

[rotccole]

Blade holder #1
Main Body #1 (with recessed switch tap)
Choke #1
Pommel #8
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
MHS speaker and 4x AAA battery holder
MPS Insert style 6
MPS Clip
1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long (No)
Blade film (Double wrap +$3.00, 1" Thick walled)


Open to advice and suggestions!!!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Blade holder #1
Main Body #1 (with recessed switch tap)
Choke #1
Pommel #8
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
MHS speaker and 4x AAA battery holder
MPS Insert style 6
MPS Clip
1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long (No)
Blade film (Double wrap +$3.00, 1" Thick walled)


Open to advice and suggestions!!!


Offhand, I would say, a blade retention screw, and the hole/ tap service for it, and some type of solution to hold your sound card in place.

[Silver Serpent]

Be sure you get the AV hole service for the AV switch. I'm guessing that's what you meant by the "recessed switch tap". You're also going to need resistors for both the main LED and the AV switch LED.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz can help you calculate the resistor you need.

[zaidikay]

I believe that you should get a momentary switch instead of a latching one.

[Silver Serpent]

Ahh, I missed that. Yes, the NB requires a momentary switch. It doesn't work with a latching switch.

[TrypWyr]

Looking at the NB manual, Erv suggests a diode if using NiMH rechargable AAAs, or even 2 diodes if using alkalines.

I've been kicking around the idea of using 3xAAA and a dummy cell (or just a wire, actually)... but in the end, it's just easier to use a single 3.7v Li-ion and get a charger. Only have to buy it once! :D