Saber sound card thoughts

[whitmers]

While I am rapidly immersing myself in this, I am now ready for another board.

My first was an obsidian (with the Foc),
then a Nano B (which is pretty much awesome)
I just appropriated a another saber with obsidian (no flash, pos and pulling it)

My choice is really whether I get another NB, or a pc 2.0. How much is the real difference? the shimmer effect and the flash on impact are important, but I don't know how I would feel about the other things the pc can do having never seen one. Is there more difference than that other than on board voltage regulation and accent leds?

I have a lot of curiosity but I may not yet know the right questions.

Any thoughts or advice is welcome. Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, the main differences is are with a PC 2.0 there is a LED controller, you can do FoC, and it has some other features that the NB doesn't.

When you decide what features are important to you, then you will have your answer, read over the specs of both boards in the store carefully. Maybe watching some video s of a PC 2.0 in action would be a good thing. LDM usually has videos in his build posts.

[whitmers]

I was looking in the manual and it looks like the pc 2.0 needs 2 switches for on/off and for the auxiliary? Is that the case? I am hoping to do a one switch build.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I was looking in the manual and it looks like the pc 2.0 needs 2 switches for on/off and for the auxiliary? Is that the case? I am hoping to do a one switch build.

You could use just one switch, though you lose all of the cool functionality / sound effects of the PC 2.0

[Silver Serpent]

Anti-Power Off Protection, Blaster Block, Lockup, and Mute-On-The-Go all require the use of the Aux button. If you are fine with losing access to these abilities, then you may certainly use a single switch.

Alternatively, if you really want a single switch saber, then I'd strongly consider using the Nano Biscotte. It only uses a single momentary switch, is smaller, requires less power, and is less expensive. You're also not cheating yourself out of the above special features, since they're not included with that board. The NB does not include a LED driver, so you'll need to use a resistor or buckpuck with your LED. FoC is also not available on the NB.

[PhoenixReborn]

The NB also powers off a single 3.7v li-ion battery... So you can use a high powered 18650 and have longer battery life... But the PC has all the effects, and the CF blows them all away.

[whitmers]

I put a nb in one of my sabers and love it, I am just wondering if I would love the pc 2.0 better. I have sabers with lock up, on tap but I never use that. I think it's one of those where if I tried it, I might love it... if i got to play with it. it's sometimes hard to go blind into something.

My nb, right now is running on 1 14500+ dummy cell and I am re-configuring a battery hold to accept two of them (so all of my sabers have the same power sources). Too many things I kinda want to try.

is the cf 6.1 that much of a step up from the pc 2.0?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I put a nb in one of my sabers and love it, I am just wondering if I would love the pc 2.0 better. I have sabers with lock up, on tap but I never use that. I think it's one of those where if I tried it, I might love it... if i got to play with it. it's sometimes hard to go blind into something.

My nb, right now is running on 1 14500+ dummy cell and I am re-configuring a battery hold to accept two of them (so all of my sabers have the same power sources). Too many things I kinda want to try.

is the cf 6.1 that much of a step up from the pc 2.0?

Yes, it can be.

[whitmers]

Psh, and I was hoping you all might make my life easier, instead you complicate it.

The saber has an obsidian, with all that stuff... so maybe if I turn the momentary switch for activation into the auxilary? or maybe just add another momentary for activation. Man, now my brain won't sleep for a while.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Psh, and I was hoping you all might make my life easier, instead you complicate it.

The saber has an obsidian, with all that stuff... so maybe if I turn the momentary switch for activation into the auxilary? or maybe just add another momentary for activation. Man, now my brain won't sleep for a while.

When you want to play in the big leagues, there is a price to pay.

[Jordandau]

The PC is more than a suitable choice versus the CF. Think of CF as top of the line luxery with all the bells and whistles, and the PC as a toyota with power everything. Both are nice and dependable, one just gets you from point A to B in style.

[Caine Drathul]

Chuck the Obsidian. Use a Nano or PC. :cool:

When it comes to the PC or Nano, you gotta think about your uses. If you are a dueler and don't plan on using the blaster blocks and lockup, the P.C. still has FoC which looks awesome during a duel. If you don't care about the FoC for certain sabers, the Nano is 100% the way to go. Regardless, a Plecter board is a Plecter board, the original and IMO the best. Others can disagree and that's OK...but I stand by them 100%.

[Silver Serpent]

Since you've already worked with a NB, and you're interested in trying out something better, I do recommend you bite the bullet and install a second switch for a PC. A PC with one switch is not a significant upgrade over the NB.

Installing another switch is not hard. All you really need access to is a drill, and maybe some taps (depending on switch).

[whitmers]

It came with the obsidian and want to pull it out. I have become hopelessly addicted to blade shimmer.

I have the flash on clash with my first obsidian (which I am meh on, probably because it doesnt shimmer) Since then I have moved onto my own install on a nb (which is great) and it I think I might try it the pc 2.0.

Though since it is deep orange, I assume that it is a luxeon rebelstar, so if I set up FoC with it would I assume it would flash orange?

That will give me familiarity with at least three different boards. When I do, what sort of switch would you go with? right now it has a momentary illuminated av switch, what are others using?

[Ty_Bomber]

You will need more than one led for foc. Tri rebels are popular choices, and although the rgb doesnt get good color mixes for the blue die (as it has too much green in it, more like a cyan or sky blue) the r and g dice can be wired together for a great yellow to orange main blade, and you can use the blue die for the foc.

As far as second switches, I prefer a mini tactile. They are small enough to be hidden in a groove. I have a love of AV switches, but only for my main power switch.

Also bear in mind that the aux switch MUST be momentary. Latching is a no go.

[whitmers]

so at this point, it sounds like I might have to get a new led to have the foc. hmmm... cost going up. Time to start sketching a plan.

Man, I don't know anything about tri colors. so if I plug a red, green blu, and plugged the blue/red @700 ma and the blue into the foc would that work?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

so at this point, it sounds like I might have to get a new led to have the foc. hmmm... cost going up. Time to start sketching a plan.

Man, I don't know anything about tri colors. so if I plug a red, green blu, and plugged the blue/red @700 ma and the blue into the foc would that work?

No, some go for the main LED and what ever is left over can be used for the FoC. IF you had a R/G/B, you could hook up the R + B and use the G for FoC. You have top decide on what blade color you want and which FoC color you want.

[whitmers]

Ok, this making sense...

so ripping out the orange which is likely a rebel star orange powered by a buck puck... if I replaced with a tri rebel star(+ lens), wired up it and ran it at 700 ma from the buck puck installed...I have no idea how i would get orange of that, so using a rebel tri star I'd have to assign choose a new color?

Thanks for your responses, this is a bit of steep learning curve going from single led to multiple die.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, this making sense...

so ripping out the orange which is likely a rebel star orange powered by a buck puck... if I replaced with a tri rebel star(+ lens), wired up it and ran it at 700 ma from the buck puck installed...I have no idea how i would get orange of that, so using a rebel tri star I'd have to assign choose a new color?

Thanks for your responses, this is a bit of steep learning curve going from single led to multiple die.

Ok, wait. I thought you were going to use a PC - correct? If so, you won't need the buckpuck.

[whitmers]

if I use the pc, I can completely omitt the buck puck? if I went nano b, I have to keep it (or get the resistor) but since it looks like I might go to the pc, then it has an on board voltage regulator so i wont have to worry?

Still with the tri star, no way for orange based on their color codes, so would I have use a Led Engin?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

if I use the pc, I can completely omitt the buck puck? if I went nano b, I have to keep it (or get the resistor) but since it looks like I might go to the pc, then it has an on board voltage regulator so i wont have to worry?

Still with the tri star, no way for orange based on their color codes, so would I have use a Led Engin?

You are correct about the voltage regulator. IF you are set on orange, yes, you will need the Ledengin RGBA wiring R and A in series to get your orange.

[Ty_Bomber]

You could accomplish it with the RGB tri-star. You might have to fiddle with resistor values or ask around to find out that a good mix is, but the r+g should can and will get you the color you want. I know that vader's vault uses RGB's for their TORange color.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You could accomplish it with the RGB tri-star. You might have to fiddle with resistor values or ask around to find out that a good mix is, but the r+g should can and will get you the color you want. I know that vader's vault uses RGB's for their TORange color.

Though it is "possible", it would take a lot of experimentation, whereas wiring the R and A in series (no real mixing required) would be easier for someone with little experience. ;)

[whitmers]

Ok, so it makes sense. Not sure if I am set on orange, but ensuring that i understand. though if currently has an orange rebel, does that mean that there are two contact points on the led since i see 2 sets of + and - ?

for auxilary switches, I was looking at this one for doing the pew pews and keeping my anti vandal red as the activation.

*raises hand for one with little experience (thats a battle saber stunt upgraded to nb)*

But hey, you gotta start somewhere! :-D

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, so it makes sense. Not sure if I am set on orange, but ensuring that i understand. though if currently has an orange rebel, does that mean that there are two contact points on the led since i see 2 sets of + and - ?

for auxilary switches, I was looking at this one for doing the pew pews and keeping my anti vandal red as the activation.

Well, you need to decide on what color you want so you can order what you need. Regarding the switch, that sounds fine.

[whitmers]

Since it's essentially a obiwan tpm, I was thinking of retooling it, threading it so i can throw a windowed emitter on it and going for a "what if obi wan had enough being so good and started to slide", I don't think it would be all red and sithy, but edging a littler further from blue. Purple semed a choice, but other combos might be interesting.

And thanks to this entire conversation thread, I now think i have figured out how the r,g,b saber builds work.