Greetings! ( my first build )

[Ish]

Greetings, I'm Ish. New to the forum and new to saber land. In fact, I've never even posted or blog b4. Ive started on my first build on a saber that I'll put together over the next few weeks thanks to this forum and The Yin.



It will be Jedi saber with a green blade. I was thinking of calling it Knight Strider or Fragment. IDK. Let me know what you think! Or help with the name and add ur thoughts.


I will add pics as I go.

Thanks
-Ish

[Machinimax]

Alright! New guy! Now about your initiation....(Gets out the wig, rubber chicken and unicycle). Hahaha just kidding! Welcome! We all look forward to your first build.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the forums! We look forward to seeing what you some up with.

[shmoetech]

Welcome Ish, looking foward to seeing your build.

[Ish]

Thanks guys!

[Darth Ryo]

Welcome Ish!
Enjoy your time around, tons of good stuff to read over here.
And of course, looking forward to see what you'll come up with ;)

[madmaxx]

your first step into a larger world......lol welcome

[Starwinder]

Welcome Ish! This is THE place to be to get started. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

[Ish]

Update:
8198


MWS Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack
LED Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color (RGBW)
Acrylic crystals
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
2.1mm Power Jack
16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
Power Xtender™ 2.0
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
Premium Speaker
2 Wire quick connector
Copper MHS LED Mount/Heatsink
Red LED indicator
Green LED indicator

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

To the forum, welcome, you are!
Your build looks good however you'll need to go for a longer extention to get you switch and port to fit. If you go for a Double Male Threaded Connector on the pommel end of a 4" Double Female Adapter (I'm guessing you're looking at Box 11, if looking at Box 14 you can go with a 3") you'll be good. The Double Male Adapter is too short and you have to drill into the threads to get you switch and port in. Where are you planning on putting the Accent LEDs? You'll need a Blade Retention Screw and Drill Tap service for it, Drill/Tap for the Activation box screw...

Your parts list will look more like this;

MPS Pommel style 4
4" Double Female Grooved
Double ended male threaded connector style 1
4" Double female threaded connector
Ribbed grooved / Choke Combo
Screw on LED blade holder style 25
MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2
Activation box style 11
2.1mm Power Jack
Machined button for Covertec clip
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
MWS Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
Power Xtender™ 2.0
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
Premium Speaker
2 Wire quick connector
7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack
Red LED indicator
Green LED indicator
Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 14500 side by side pack
1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long
Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tip with reflective disc
8-32 x 1/8" Set screw Blade Retention screw
8-32 x 3/8" socket head Covertec screw
Box 11 Mounting holes service
Drill & Tap Hole for Blade Retention screw
Drill & Tap Hole for Covertec Knob
Gorilla Glue to hold the blade tip on
clear poly gift wrap for blade diffusion material

I'm sure I'm missing something but that's the bulk of it. Pretty ambitious project for a first saber, good luck!

[Ish]

Thanks Boj-Vaati Mau!

I think you're right. Im going to go that route. Yes I'm going to use the accent lights.


Thanks for the tips.
-Ish

[Ish]

What kind of resistors do i need for
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
Red LED indicator
Green LED indicator
Power Xtender™ 2.0

I don't think I need one for the LED Engin.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

What kind of resistors do i need for
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
Red LED indicator
Green LED indicator
Power Xtender™ 2.0

I don't think I need one for the LED Engin.

Learn Ohm's laws you should ;)

Use the search button, find the answers you seek, you will. :D

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

Here are the basic renders for your build off of the MHS Builder:
8203

[Ish]

8204

This is what I have been working on. Let me know what u think.

[Ish]

Learn Ohm's laws you should ;)

Use the search button, find the answers you seek, you will. :D

Ok I got it, but does the board provides to power the accent LEDs is 3.3V. Or 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A ?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

8204

This is what I have been working on. Let me know what u think.

Not bad at all. You will have quite a bit of Dremel-Fu ahead of you.:D

Just give thought to how and where you're going to connect that to the main hilt.

[Ish]

Hey guys! Hope everyone is have a good weekend. So this is what I got for the resistors. Let me know if I'm off and I'm having a hard time with the power xterder resistor. If there's any input let me know. Thanks guys

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch = 1 ohms, 1/8W
Red LED indicator = 68ohms, 1/8W
Green LED indicator = 68ohms, 1/8W
Power Xtender™ 2.0 = ?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Power Xtender™ 2.0 = ?

Depends on what color(s) you are going to use for FoC. Important, that information is.

To answer your other question the accent pads are 3.3V, 20 mAh.

[Ish]

Green LEDS on as the main blade, Blue flash for clash, and Red flash for blasters.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Green LEDS on as the main blade, Blue flash for clash, and Red flash for blasters.

It doesn't work that way... FoC (or similar effects) are only one "color". You don't get different FoC colors for different effects. ;)

Wanna try again? 8)

[Ish]

Ok I think I got it. Green for the main and the FOC will be white. So I would have to use a 5.6 ohms, 2.7 watt. The led is 400V @ 700 ma. What u think?


Thanks for the help

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok I think I got it. Green for the main and the FOC will be white. So I would have to use a 5.6 ohms, 2.7 watt. The led is 400V @ 700 ma. What u think?


Thanks for the help

OK, a few things here...

IF you are going to just do a green blade and a white FoC, you should STRONGLY consider using a Tri-Rebel G/G/W, this way you can have the 2 green Die for the main blade and the White for FoC. You may be happier with the brighter blade.

IF you plan on sticking with the LEDEngins then you can run the dice at a considerably higher amperage (close to 1500 mAh vs. 700 mAh)
If that is the case, the 3.3 ohm, 5W resistor Tim sells will be fine for the white FoC.

IF you decide to go the Tri-Rebel route, the resistor will be different because you can only run those whites at around 1000 mAh (4.7 ohm - 5W resistor)

[Ish]

OK, a few things here...

IF you are going to just do a green blade and a white FoC, you should STRONGLY consider using a Tri-Rebel G/G/W, this way you can have the 2 green Die for the main blade and the White for FoC. You may be happier with the brighter blade.

IF you plan on sticking with the LEDEngins then you can run the dice at a considerably higher amperage (close to 1500 mAh vs. 700 mAh)
If that is the case, the 3.3 ohm, 5W resistor Tim sells will be fine for the white FoC.

IF you decide to go the Tri-Rebel route, the resistor will be different because you can only run those whites at around 1000 mAh (4.7 ohm - 5W resistor)


Can I use the all the colors with the pc 2.0?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Can I use the all the colors with the pc 2.0?

All the colors of what? You need to be a bit more specific when you ask questions. ;)

[Ish]

Like with the Aux Switch. blaster blocking, and lockups ect?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Like with the Aux Switch. blaster blocking, and lockups ect?

HUH??? :confused: Your question still isn't making a whole lot of sense... If you are asking can you use white FoC with the aux switch, the answer is yes. If that is NOT what you are asking, your question needs to be specific so we can figure out what you are trying to ask.

[Ish]

HUH??? :confused: Your question still isn't making a whole lot of sense... If you are asking can you use white FoC with the aux switch, the answer is yes. If that is NOT what you are asking, your question needs to be specific so we can figure out what you are trying to ask.


I'm sorry about that. I know I'm all over the place? Lol I'm just trying to figure this out.

Ok, can I use all four dies on the LED? Like one for the main (green), one for the FOC (white with a resistor) and the blue and red for the aux switch for blaster blocks and lock-ups.

Now if I can use all for do I need to factor that in my calculation for the FOC resistor?

Thanks Ish

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm sorry about that. I know I'm all over the place? Lol I'm just trying to figure this out.

Ok, can I use all four dies on the LED? Like one for the main (green), one for the FOC (white with a resistor) and the blue and red for the aux switch for blaster blocks and lock-ups.

Now if I can use all for do I need to factor that in my calculation for the FOC resistor?

Thanks Ish

No. I covered that earlier...

"It doesn't work that way... FoC (or similar effects) are only one "color". You don't get different FoC colors for different effects."

You could combine two of the remaining dice to create 1 color (red and blue for purple, blue and white for silver, etc.)

[Silver Serpent]

Let me clarify what FJK has said. The FoC LED(s) will be triggered whenever ANY of the following events occur: Clash, Blaster Block, or Lockup. When any of those events occur, whichever LED dice you have wired to the FoC circuit will activate. The PC does not allow you to use different colors for different events. You may use as many as you like for FoC, (provided you can power them with your battery pack) but they will ALL trigger on ANY FoC event.

Another thing to consider is that whenever a FoC event occurs, the main blade will remain ON. So if you have a green main blade, and your FoC color is red, then the color you see will be a mixture of green and red (usually comes out as amber). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Additive_color can show you how some of the colors mix.

[Ish]

Ok thanks guys! Going to think about this. Going to make another order from the shop tonight.

[Ish]

To the forum, welcome, you are!

clear poly gift wrap for blade diffusion material





Hi, Boj-Vaati Mau

Diffusion material?

[shmoetech]

clear gift wrap works great, wrap it a round a rod about 5x the into blade back spin and remove rod...there are tutorials on here for doing it.

[Ish]

clear gift wrap works great, wrap it a round a rod about 5x the into blade back spin and remove rod...there are tutorials on here for doing it.


Thanks Shmoetech,,

I look out for that.

[Crystal Chambers]

Hey Ish

Congrats on taking on your first build.
Overlay/shroud design tip: Try wrapping paper around a tube as if it was your MHS and drawing on that. Transferring a 2d image to 3d can be unpredictable.

[Ish]

Hey Ish

Congrats on taking on your first build.
Overlay/shroud design tip: Try wrapping paper around a tube as if it was your MHS and drawing on that. Transferring a 2d image to 3d can be unpredictable.

Thanks Crystal!

You're absolutely right.....

[The Yin]

Or masking (painters) tape.

[Ish]

Can anybody tell me what kind of size sleeved/ sink tube I would need for the custom shop parts to put over the saber?

[The Yin]

The MHS Sleeve Material (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-Sleeve-material-P468.aspx) and the 1-1/2" sink tube (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-12-x-12-Chrome-sink-tube-P84.aspx) fit right over most MHS parts.

[Ish]

Nice! thanks!

[Ish]

Good morning or good afternoon guys depending on what time your reading this post!

So far I started working on the wiring to the PC 2.0 had no hitches except for one. okay I guess I did have a hitch then. Lol The main LED has two green dies one green dye lights up just fine the other one does not light up and I've also noticed that the green dye light up as soon as I remove the kill plug. Any suggestions of what I did wrong? Thanks


Ish

[The Yin]

Sounds like two different issues.
The problem with the one green die not lighting up is most likely just a soldering issue. recheck to be sure it is wired correctly.

The kill plug might me a PC config issue. With mine (I think it's this way with all of them), the board was config to be ON when the main switch was OPEN. Thus, with a latching switch, when it is UP, the board is ON. There are instructions on how to config this in the PC manual, I don't remember what to change off the top of my head.

BUT, I'm still a PC noob. So a second (more experienced) opinion would be good.

[Ish]

Thanks!

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

If you don't have one already, get a cheapy coffee mug warmer for soldering LED stars and keeping your coffee warm. Put the star on the warmer and it will IMMENSLY help with your soldering job.

[Silver Serpent]

Agreed. Though from years of working in laboratories, I highly recommend NOT drinking coffee in the shop. It's too easy to get stray bits of solder, aluminum dust, etc. in your coffee. Spilling coffee all over your electronics is a good recipe for a bad day as well.

But the coffee cup warmer is a good thing to have.

[Ish]

Hey guys just to keep you updated I did all of the above with no result regarding the second Main LED. Which leads me to believe that one of the LEDs is not working so therefore I will order a new one. I can't seem to figure out how to configure the main LED not to go on when I remove the kill switch. And I also noticed I cannot get the LED to Flicker after I make the changes in the configuration. Right now I have it at three for speed and 80. Let me know if u guys have any suggestions.


Ish