View Full Version : My New Kyp Durron Build

11-29-2012, 06:38 AM
So after much research and Trial and error i am ready to take a stab at my first Full package saber i will have a PC 1.5, a 10W LEDengin RGBW as well as Flash on Clash. I am very excited to start here is what i have so far.

To start with a Pic of Kyp Durron with his Lightsaber


Here is my custom Part, it is where the MOM switches will go as well as the accent LED's


And a Rough Render of what the Custom part will look like with the Blade Holder However i did change the Blade holder more pics tomorrow


AAAAND the Wiring Diagram for my PC 1.5

11-29-2012, 06:42 AM
Still have to buy a toaster oven to bake the paint, Cant use the house one Girlfriend would not like paint tasting cookies. and it is going to be a pain to paint just those tiny little lines black Lots of taping :)

11-29-2012, 04:58 PM
Still have to buy a toaster oven to bake the paint, Cant use the house one Girlfriend would not like paint tasting cookies. and it is going to be a pain to paint just those tiny little lines black Lots of taping :)

If it's just the grooves, I wouldn't worry about tape too much. you can tape off the larger section, but just paint and sand. It stays in the grooves. For me it's easier to control what/how much to take off versus how it goes on.

11-29-2012, 11:16 PM
Good Call ill have to try that

11-29-2012, 11:30 PM
And her are some more build pics Wiring In series is a pain those tiny little pads, ugh It looks like there is a gap but it is so small, we shall see












The last one is a blurry pic however, I do have a question, i wired the pc 1.5 as basically as possible, 1 mom switch a RGBW LEDengin with only the RG in series for amber and the battery only one 18650 at 3.7 v And it did not work any ideas why? it could be that i wired the LEDengin wrong but it should at least sort of light up there is a positive and negative lead coming out of the red pads, or is it not enough Battery power for the LEDengin? hmm I took it all apart and will attemp to rewire it tomorrow with better Pics. and more pics of my LEDengin in series wiring RG and BW

11-29-2012, 11:34 PM
Do I need to have the SD card in the PC for it to work? if yes i did put it in and it did not work so maybe i have to do something else

Silver Serpent
11-30-2012, 05:33 AM
Did you remember to reconfigure the PC card to use a momentary switch? By default, it's set to use a latching switch.

A single li-ion isn't enough to run that, though it should have lit up a little. Hook up the speaker as well, so you'll know for sure if the board is getting power properly.

If there's no SD card in there, the board should just beep at you. Be sure you have it in there.

11-30-2012, 06:52 AM
OK Good to know than you silver serpent, I did not check the config settings i will do that, i also figured out i wired the LED wrong. FINALLY figured out how to Actually wire in series. THANK YOU FENDER BENDER :) than you for your help as well silver

11-30-2012, 11:59 PM
Decided to shorten up the hilt, Went with the five in fluted extension instead of the 6 in, also i have a poll for the masses. should i use the blade holder i am currently using or the BH 16 7988

12-01-2012, 12:01 AM
The BH i currently have is more accurate to the Kyp durron saber pic however i really like the look of it with BH 16 i tested it by putting on the OBI bh i have in the pic above and it looked really nice so Your opinions would be a great help thanks saber community :)

12-01-2012, 12:52 AM
Been checking out the Wiring diagrams, and it does not show the positive and negative leads to the premium speaker are they nuetral? does it matter what i use as the positive and negative?

Darth Scorn
12-01-2012, 08:06 AM
it doesn't matter

12-03-2012, 12:45 AM
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y535/patolcott/Kyp%20Durron%20Lightsaber/20121202_232011.jpg and finished some test painting i will be swapping out the black handle peice for one an inch shorter. and i am trying to figure out how to get my paint lines perfect before i try baking it

12-04-2012, 06:00 PM
I am getting there just waiting for my Ribbed Chassis System and my two mom switches from JQ sabers. cant wait then i can wire it all up and see how she looks.

12-04-2012, 10:17 PM
officially decided to switch to the other blade holder cant wait.

12-05-2012, 09:50 PM
Ugh, I hate it when Work interferes with saber building. wont be able to do anything till next weekend. at least i can post at work

12-06-2012, 03:45 AM
Sick!! Easily my favorite character in all the S.W films and expanded Universe! I would love if they gave us a novel from his perspective (preferably between the final days of his Kessel "retreat" up to maybe Joker Squad/ Yuhzon Vong days!) Never gonna happen though, they would need to start with an action figure at least, or a comic series run :) Yeah, rock on dude, Kuddos!

12-06-2012, 04:45 AM
Thanks Man! He has always been my favorite too, I am surprised no one has tried his saber yet. I guess it is because there is almost no pictures of his saber and the ones that there are, are different.

12-11-2012, 11:24 PM
So i am stuck I cannot really go any further untill i receive my RCS courtesy of Ki ADI MUNDI, and two iluminated tactile switches from JQ, also waiting on the Tactile switch Holders from Force relics. on top of that i am trying to justify buying a toaster oven to my family. is it weird I asked for a toaster oven for Christmas? LOL oh well it is coming along.

12-16-2012, 11:57 PM
Just fill whole area with paint and sand the outer part

12-18-2012, 11:07 PM
HUH? for what? are you talking about painting in the lines?

01-03-2013, 06:12 AM
Yay Finally got my switches! courtesy of JQsabers, still waiting on my RCS and switch holders from force relics.

01-03-2013, 06:17 AM
so really contemplating replacing one of my mom tactile switches with this badboy what do you guys think?


Kevin Starwaster
01-03-2013, 04:11 PM
so really contemplating replacing one of my mom tactile switches with this badboy what do you guys think?


I think you should go with what looks good to you. Personally I'm not sure I think that switch would look good on your saber but that might just be me. I might feel differently if I SAW it installed on the saber.

That said, I'm actually liking the one in the middle with the blue ring.

01-04-2013, 03:37 AM
I will go with what looks good to me the problem is they both look great to me i just cant decide LOL. i also like the blue on in the middle but for mine i the accent light color to be different from the blade

01-09-2013, 12:09 AM
So Still waiting on my RCS and switch holders, but while i was waiting i found the most AWESOME thing ever. CERAKOTING. it is mainly used for firearms. it is a very thin ceramic coating about .001 in thick and it extremely durable you could take a nail to it and it wouldnt scratch it. so i am having my buddy cerakote my saber in the same colors as it already was. so excited to have that done. the cerakote will never wear off nor do i need to clear coat it to make it do so.

01-15-2013, 11:18 PM
the cerakote will be done at the end of the week :) cant wait to post the pics

01-25-2013, 11:05 PM
UGH this build is killing me :( All i want to do is work on it but I literally cannot do anything till I have my chassis and switch holders. well at least my cerakoting is done I will post pics of it when i pick it up.

02-03-2013, 12:21 AM
YAY!!!! finally got it back from my bud who does cerakoting. it is a little lighter of a color than originally thought of but hey Kyp was more of a greyish jedi anyway.

little blurry not sure why

All ceramic coating designed to protect whatever you coat from wear and tear :) no scratches in that stuff. And I did have him media blast a couple of the pieces as you can see. cant wait to get my RCS once that is done I can really start the planning for the electrical tomorrow I am going to put the kobold D ring on as well as the blade retention screw, cant add the Accent LED switches or faux blade adjust dial.

02-11-2013, 11:19 AM
I have some great new pics coming up I received my switch holders so I was able to do all my drilling. However I have a quick question... I don't want to have to use a kill key so if I put a switch on the "HOT" wire going to the recharge port that should work as a kill key right?

Silver Serpent
02-11-2013, 12:02 PM
Yes. You'll want a latching switch for that, or else you end up with a dead-man's switch that you have to hold in to keep the saber on.

02-11-2013, 07:23 PM
thanks, referencing the wiring diagram on first page will the foc being directly tied to the battery affect the latching switch

Silver Serpent
02-11-2013, 07:57 PM
I'd move the FoC lines to the recharge port instead of directly tying them to the battery. Then the kill key will kill everything, including the FoC wires.

02-12-2013, 06:02 PM
Good Call/ Shouldn't be to hard I will draw A new wiring diagram tonight to put on here. One last question. I am putting a crystal chamber in will it be possible to add a second Accent LED? I already have two accents in my switches and one extra accent on the exterior/ this completely covers all Accent LED slots. can I throw an extra one on there?

02-12-2013, 06:38 PM

Silver Serpent
02-12-2013, 06:53 PM
One last question. I am putting a crystal chamber in will it be possible to add a second Accent LED? I already have two accents in my switches and one extra accent on the exterior/ this completely covers all Accent LED slots. can I throw an extra one on there?

Yes. You can easily wire it in as a Progressive Power On LED (see p.18 of the PC2.0 manual) and then the crystal chamber will actually mimic the blade effects.

I love the PVC switch rings in your pics. Did you make those yourself, or are they 3d printed, or something else?

Kevin Starwaster
02-12-2013, 10:07 PM
Wow, a little disappointed to see that you're assembling this in some sort of workshop and not in a dark cave somewhere....

That said, good to see it coming together now!

02-12-2013, 11:01 PM
@Silver serpent, they are 3d printed, I did not print them though, I just discovered 3d printing myself otherwise i would have. I know we are not supposed to solicit here but i will say to go to fx sabers>the outer rim> force relics and you will find what you need. I suggest 3d printing them yourself though it is cheaper and faster because they ship from england I believe. Oh and lastly I do not have a PC 2.0 I have the 1.5 can I still do the progressive power on thing? that sounds awesome.

@kevin Starwater, your telling me man With all of the waiting for parts it is so good to finally be getting things all together now. Now all I have to wait for is my 3d print of my chassis to come in. it ships on the 22nd :) cant wait!

Silver Serpent
02-13-2013, 07:25 AM
You can do it with the 1.5 as well. You wire the pos(+) of your accent to the pos(+) pad of the main LED, and then run the neg(-) of your accent LED to the neg(-) power input on the board. It's on p.15 of the PC1.5 manual. The procedure is the same, no matter which version of the board you are using. You will need to use a resistor, and the source voltage will be equal to the Vf of your main LED. The formula for calculating the resistor is in the PC manual, or you can just use an online resistor calculator.

02-13-2013, 10:59 PM
Thanks silver! I actually went back over the 1.6 manual and I found what you are talking about on page 14 thanks for the extra input. I will be doing a wiring test this weekend to if everything works... Fingers crossed.

02-26-2013, 11:28 PM
well I have virtually everything needed in hand now and will do the final install this week. It is going to be a serious PITA though my chassis has alot less room than I anticipated. I have had to take out all quick connectors. It should be enough but we shall see. I will make sure to take lots of pics over the next week

02-27-2013, 12:05 AM
'The actual space available in the hilt is always smaller than it appears'. It's a good think you didn't move to a slightly shorter hilt... Oh... Wait... :D

02-27-2013, 03:54 AM
:mrgreen: I know right. ah well I am confident I can pull it off it will just be very tedious

02-27-2013, 10:40 PM
once I am done here is my next project :)


02-28-2013, 05:43 AM
AAAAND new pics


03-01-2013, 01:18 AM
ugh so frustrated. I have wired and rewired my board and for some reason whenever i wire it inside my chassis it does not work yet when i take it out and troubleshoot wire it it does work. :confused: I must be wiring something wrong inside the chassis. I think I must be getting my wires mixed up. oh and btw the first time it did not work It was the font. I have a pc 1.5 or 6 and I put the grey jedi font on it obviously it does not hold the entire font but i took the base sounds and renamed them yet all i got was a beep and it did not work? any ideas? does the pc 1.5 or 1.6 not support new fonts? I put the dark meat back on and it worked again so i am not sure what is up.

03-01-2013, 09:16 AM
NOOOOOOOOOOOO! I think I figured out the prob I have PEBIB :( don't know if it can be fixed. I got some soldering wire on the processor looking part of the PC. I do not know how it happened but it did. I even tried to clean it out but no joy.

Well I guess it is a good thing rev got 95 new CSv6.1's in :)

03-19-2013, 09:47 PM
Well I have now recieved the CFV 6.1 did a test wire... Everything seemed to work great except for my FOC... Not sure what that is yet but I will be looking at it later. Right now I am just waiting on A nicely machined chassis. Then I will do some cram fu and hopefully finish this bad boy up before my birthday in april. Boy this saber sure has been a process. it started when I saw Madcow's Corran Horn and I somehow lived through it. I then wanted to make a saber similar to his. So I asked him for an OK and he gave me his blessing and since then it has been revision after revision. Then some more changes! it sure has been a fun learning experience though. My skills at soldering have gone up considerably. I really cant wait to finish this bad boy...

That being said I recently heard someone mention something about a users manual. I really like this Idea. I think while I am waiting for a Chassis I am going to do a journal type manual. With real rough paper and bound in leather. I was going to take my pics on a white background and use photoshop to make the pics look sketched. Then i would use the sketched pics to do my manual off of. I would love to hear some other ideas. or if anyone has a manual that they have done I would love to use it for some inspiration and Ideas.

06-10-2014, 12:07 PM
I really like this hilt!!