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The Yin
11-06-2012, 10:43 PM
OK, I've floated around the threads and read through the PC Manual a few times, and I've put together a not-so-pretty wiring diagram.
Two questions, other then the obvious 'does this look right' question.

1-Can I wire the LED on the illuminated switch the way I did in the diagram (off the switch itself). I only want the LED on the switch on when the saber is powered up.

2- Can the FoC be wired for more then one affect? One for clash and one for blaster blocking?
Basically, I would like to have the Engin LZ4 with 2 Green LEDS on as the main blade, Blue flash for clash, and Red flash for blaster blocking. (< is that even possible?!?)

So, here it be . . .
{It is gone}
I said it was not-so-pretty.

Ok, here is the updated diagram.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8168799192_3c259313be_h.jpg

That's better.

Comments, concerns?


-The YIn

Silver Serpent
11-07-2012, 05:35 AM
1. No, that won't work. You could wire it as a progressive power on LED (p 18 of the PC 2.0 manual), but with the way you have the switch wired now it won't light up at all.

2. Not currently possible. It might be available on later generations of the PC.

I'll check the rest of your wiring diagram after I've had more coffee.

Edit: I've had my coffee now. Your recharge port is wired incorrectly. See the following post for the correct method: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2235-Recharge-port-hookup&p=51391#post51391

Alternatively, you can also see the correct diagram in the PC 2.0 manual on page 10.

The Yin
11-07-2012, 10:32 AM
Haha, wow, looking back at the picture in the manual, I put everything in the wrong place for the recharge port. I was following the written instructions, but I don't actually have the recharge port yet, so I was misreading what was what.
I can fix that part.

For the switch LED I could run it as a progressive power on LED, or i could (I think) use the 3.3v pad.
Here's what I'm thinking: 3.3v pad to C2(on switch); NO2 (on switch) to +LED; -LED to PC -battery.

I'll have to redraw this when I get home. Maybe, if there is time, I'll make it a little less not-so-pretty.

-The Yin

Silver Serpent
11-07-2012, 10:54 AM
That should work since your switch is DPDT, provided you have a latching switch. If it's momentary, it'll only illuminate when the switch is held down.

shef
11-07-2012, 08:14 PM
Your Power Extender (in the diagram) shows an external resistor on the + leading to the LED module, which is fine, so long as you bridge the two + pads on the PEX. Most of the time, I see the resistor being placed directly on the PEX between the 2 + pads. It saves quite a bit of space.

The Yin
11-08-2012, 12:09 PM
Thanks for the tip Shef.
I will most likely have the resister on the board, but I haven't decided how swappable I'll want parts to be. I may put the resister inline on the cable, depends on how easy it may be to replace the resister on the board if I ever put in a different LED.

Also, I've got a much better wire diagram for the PC I'm working on. But it might be a few days before I get time to finish and post it.

-The Yin

The Yin
11-09-2012, 12:18 AM
K, just updated my first post with the new diagram.
Much prettier, if I may say so myself.

-The Yin

Silver Serpent
11-09-2012, 05:25 AM
New diagram looks correct to me.

The Yin
12-18-2012, 01:01 PM
Okay, I'm bring this thread back to life (back to reality), looking for some input on a power source.

Here's what I'll have:
PC, with PEX
2w speaker
2 LEDs for chamber (5mm - 20mA, 5VDC Max reverse Voltage. 2VDC (typ) Forward voltage drop)
1 switch LED (3.3V and runs at 20mA)
Blade LED - Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color

I was originally thinking of using a 7.4v 2600mAh 18650 pack, just to have the best power option.
But, to save space and lower the hilts total weight, I am eyeing the 7.4v 1600mAh 14500 pack or the 7.4 1400mAh 18500 pack.


My inquiry is rather or not the 2600mAh is more then I'll need to keep this saber alive all day at a convention?

My first set of sabers (all stunt, single blade LED w\ switch and accent LED), all had 800mAh and they barely made it through the day.

Any input is much appreciated.

Silver Serpent
12-18-2012, 01:19 PM
It really depends on how much you use the saber. It might last all day for some people, not so much for others.

For a rough calculation, divide the mAh of your pack by the total mA of all your components.

2600mAh / (~350mA for PC + 60mA for 3 accent LEDs + your main LED) = approximate runtime in hours. Keep in mind that the listed battery pack mAh is usually higher than you'll see in practice.

Another option is to build the saber so that the battery pack is easily swappable. Then just carry an extra battery pack with you.

The Yin
12-18-2012, 01:25 PM
cool, thanks for the reply.

I'll get crunch'n on the numbers

Ish
01-15-2013, 06:36 AM
Hi The Yin, im just starting on getting the parts to make my lightsaber and ur PC wiring diagram has been a big help. I was hoping u can give me any advice on the saber build and if there has been any changes to the diagram that u can give me. I will be using the Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0.

Thanks
-Ish

The Yin
01-15-2013, 09:52 AM
Hi Ish,

Welcome to the forum, and welcome to TCSS.

This is my first PC build, but so far this wiring diagram has worked out for me.
Only 2 things that I did different from the diagram. And 1 other thing to keep in mind.
1- I placed the resistor inline on the '+' wire for the FoC LED dice. The resistor I had to use was to big to fit well on the PEX, or in the space it was going to be. Some of the Master Saber Builders just skip soldering the '+' wires to the PEX at all and just connect the two together through the resistor.

2- The exact wiring of the blade LED will depend on which dies are where on the star, and which one you want to use. You can look at them and see what color they are, but you'd have to test the LED pads to know for sure what pads are for what LED. I had a 2-AA battery holder and 2 NiMH batteries I used to test them. Be sure not to look at them directly, and be extra careful with the RED.

3 - the one thing to keep in mind is that this is just a diagram of what goes where, but not how. I used quick connects for everything, but some stuff, like the main switch and the blade LED, I used a 4-wire, and other things I used 2 wire. I haven't assembled my completed saber, but I know things will be tight (very much so). So, it's best to test things out as you go and see what will work best for your hilt.

Don't forget to read this (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13703-LEDengin-5w-and-10W-info-and-wiring-guide-for-noobs).
And this is a little tangent i went on about wiring the LEDEngin (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?15238-The-LED-Engin-LZ4!).

Have fun, and take your time.
Keep swimming thought the forums also. There's a lot of great info out there.

Happy Sabering.

Ish
01-15-2013, 10:52 AM
Thanks for the tips!

This what im working on getting. what u think or am i missing something?

Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack
2w bass speaker
LED Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color (RGBW)
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
2.1mm Power Jack
16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
Power Xtender™ 2.0

The Yin
01-15-2013, 02:53 PM
Thanks for the tips!

This what im working on getting. what u think or am i missing something?

Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack
2w bass speaker
LED Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color (RGBW)
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
2.1mm Power Jack
16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
Power Xtender™ 2.0

That's a good start.
Don't forget, you'll need a resistor for the LED in the Green Ring Switch, and a resistor for your FoC LEDs.

Ish
01-15-2013, 04:39 PM
That's the led terminal in the diagram right?

The Yin
01-15-2013, 05:49 PM
Yep,
in the diagram I have the LED in the switch wired to come on when the switch is pushed in. It is wired to the 3.3v pad of the PC (Page 21 of the manua (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PC-2.0-Manual.pdf)l) You can wire it like in the diagram, or solder the resistor in between the 'NO1' and 'LED Terminal +'.

You should be sure to read the Petit Crouton Manual (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PC-2.0-Manual.pdf) a few times. Most of what I have in my diagram is from what is mentioned in the manual and on FenderBender 's wiring guide (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13703-LEDengin-5w-and-10W-info-and-wiring-guide-for-noobs) thread

Ish
01-15-2013, 06:00 PM
cool man, thanks for the reply and the help. I'll keep u posted.

-Ish