Blade Holder Issues

[ryo alem]

I have the saber that I always wanted...until I try spins or battles. I used a steel set screw, stripped the blade holder...bought a new one. Made another one, used aluminum battled with it stripped it again. Now on my perfect 2nd saber I have a great looking saber that I can't do any tricks with or use other than pose for pictures. I know of people that have purchased sabers made from CSS parts. What's the secret for the all in one battle looks good saber? How do I get a great blade holder part?

Thanks

[Johannes Huber]

I'm not by any means an expert on the construction of sabers (I'm only building my second), but I wonder if one thing might be a possible solution: I know, from a long time of training in a Japanese sword methodology, that the forces that are involved on blade to blade contact are much greater than we tend to think, even if, in fact especially if, we aren't trying to hit as hard as we can but rather hitting "correctly". What may be a solution here would be several retainer screws placed at differing angles or spaced out in a straight line going back towards the main hilt, to "share" the force of impact between them (much like the modern addition of a second holding pin/mekugi to Japanese style sword hilts as an "insurance policy" to keep the blade in the hilt/tsuka, particularly for blades intended to cut "high resistance" mediums such as thick bamboo). The other thing that would be a question is how close to the actual opening of the emitter is the retention screw sitting? I would guess that if it is too close to the opening where the blade comes out, it will be exposed to a different and possibly more destructive type of shearing force angle than it would be if placed further back.
As I said, these are only the thoughts of someone with a sword background and experience with how a sword can malfunction, I'm sure the saber experts/smiths will have much more definite suggestions but this may be a place to start from looking from.

[Silver Serpent]

If you're stripping out a blade retention screw, that usually means you're tightening it too much. Tighten the screw until it's snug, and the blade shouldn't move. You don't need to torque it down.

[Crystal Chambers]

If you're stripping out a blade retention screw, that usually means you're tightening it too much. Tighten the screw until it's snug, and the blade shouldn't move. You don't need to torque it down.

I second the serpent...it doesn't take much tightening at all. If you strip a nice blade holder you can always redrill and tap it up to a 10-32 thread

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I have to agree with SS and Crystal, some good close ups of the screw hole and where on the blade holder it is would be good. Did Tim drill the hole for you or did you do it yourself?

[Silver Serpent]

Also, if the old blade retention screw hole is stripped out, you can always re-drill and tap it with a larger size. Jump from 6-32 up to 8-32 and you won't have to toss your old parts. You'll just need to get a new retention screw to go in the new hole.

[Caine Drathul]

I duel with all my sabers and I have never have I had that issue. Just don't torque it down overly tight. I have NEVER had a blade come out of the holder, so I am not sure how it's happening to you...and I abuse my sabers more than most people.