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View Full Version : First custom saber attempt - MHS Mara Jade replica



jadedsabre
09-19-2006, 09:54 AM
Hello everyone!

I'm new here, and have decided to jump in head first with a rather industrious project.

I have a Mara Jade costume, and am in need of a proper lightsaber. However, rather than taking the easy way out and converting a Darth Vader saber, I've decided that I want one of these:

http://thelightsaber.com/HistorySabers/SmallPics/MaraEHSM.jpg

Thanks largely in part to the MHS system, with a bit of ingenuity and assistance, I think I can pull off a decent replica. I've spent hours pouring over these forums, and have a decent grasp on the situation here, as well as a bill of materials.

However, there are still a few things I haven't quite figured out yet, so I thought I would post here and see if anyone had any helpful advice for me.

1. The blade holder. It's a simplified version of style 8, so I think I need to ask Tim about a custom order, without the additional machining to narrow the diameter.

2. The "switch". I haven't had a chance to peruse the hardware store yet, so I'm not sure where to find the big bracket, the ribbed ring that circles the hilt, or the small "buttons" on top - some replicas use LEDs but I have yet to find two replicas that are the same, so I do have a bit of play in this area. (I am planning on using the normal MHS hole for the actual, functioning power switch, ala the Parks sabers.)

3. The rails on the lower end of the hilt that are riveted on. They seem simple enough though, so I'm hoping I can walk into a hardware store and find them already cut.

4. Drilling holes. What do I need to know about drilling holes in the aluminum (the MHS hilts are aluminum, right?) for the rivets? What tools do I need for this? (I've never used a Dremel before, and have no idea of its wonders...)

5. Blind-rivets, also known as pop-rivets. Does anyone know if I'll still have room in the hilt for the electronics if I pepper the hilt with blind-rivets? I've never used them before, so I'm not sure how far they will protrude into the blind side of the hilt.

Many thanks in advance. I'm so excited - I totally cannot wait to order the parts and get started! I just want to make sure I've covered all of my bases before I shell out all the $$ and then find out I can't actually assemble it.

-Jaded

xwingband
09-19-2006, 10:04 AM
You could definatlye make a decent replica of the MJ hilt... I just saw a Parks EL one go for $320. I wanted it so bad.

1)Wow.... I didn't think about that but could could gat a pretty damn good aproximation if you put the grips in.

2)I'd make the switch with the normal MHS hole. This is what Parks does on his EL Mara sabers and since Parks made the original... if it's good enough for him...

For extra reference:
Parks saber on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/Expanded-Universe-Mara-Jade-Lightsaber-EL-Working_W0QQitemZ270027846073QQihZ017QQcategoryZ37 887QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

3)Jedi Ranger... he needs to chime in. His EL on the hilt saber had grips just like Mara's. He'd be able to tell you an exact size and where he got it.

4)Nothing special about aluminum. It's pretty dang soft and easy to drill. The mre important thing is have a jig to hold it so that it won't roll. A drill press would be best.

5)Not sure either

Good Luck, I want to see this in the gallery! MJ's is one of my most favorite hilts.

james3
09-19-2006, 10:13 AM
Dang some major digging would be needed but we talked about this somewhere.

Using the MHS as a base for the MJ saber would work out nicely. Don't forget that Tim can do any of the custom stuff you need done to the parts too! :D

jadedsabre
09-19-2006, 11:00 AM
You could definatlye make a decent replica of the MJ hilt... I just saw a Parks EL one go for $320. I wanted it so bad.

1)Wow.... I didn't think about that but could could gat a pretty damn good aproximation if you put the grips in.

2)I'd make the switch with the normal MHS hole. This is what Parks does on his EL Mara sabers and since Parks made the original... if it's good enough for him...

For extra reference: *url deleted*

3)Jedi Ranger... he needs to chime in. His EL on the hilt saber had grips just like Mara's. He'd be able to tell you an exact size and where he got it.

4)Nothing special about aluminum. It's pretty dang soft and easy to drill. The mre important thing is have a jig to hold it so that it won't roll. A drill press would be best.

5)Not sure either

Good Luck, I want to see this in the gallery! MJ's is one of my most favorite hilts.

Yeah, I was watching that auction, actually. A friend of mine has a Parks replica as well. She paid a fortune for it, so I thought I'd look into making my own, and was shocked at how close I can get it.

In regard to the actual power switch, yes, I was going to use the normal MHS hole. The "switch" I was talking about is the fake switch - I'm not sure what else to call it. If it were a real lightsaber, I think that box would be the switch, at least.

Drilling - I should use a regular drill then? Do I need to worry about oil, or punching the aluminum first? This is one area I'm really not sure about.

jadedsabre
09-19-2006, 11:05 AM
Dang some major digging would be needed but we talked about this somewhere.

Using the MHS as a base for the MJ saber would work out nicely. Don't forget that Tim can do any of the custom stuff you need done to the parts too! :D

I managed to find a couple of references in the forums, but it was mostly "I love this hilt!" and "Tim, how about adding parts like this to the MHS system?" followed by "I don't think there's a high enough demand.". Unfortunately, the search isn't working for old posts, so that's all I found. :?

james3
09-19-2006, 11:21 AM
I have not played with the search on here much but so far I don't like it as much. Doesn't help that we are famous for going off topic.

If you don't have a drill press then a good way to go is using a vise and then doing a center punch and a step bit. I admit I swear by my step bits.

If you don't have a vise then use a picnic table, deck, etc. that has space between the planks and tape the hilt down and drill it. This worked surprisingly well for an emergency upgrade that I did while I was out of town.

mike-jon-sims
09-19-2006, 01:24 PM
the situation with the pop-rivets i dont think would be a problem. after all, pop-rivets come in many different sizes to were you could just go with a sized rivet that would fit.

WeirdoTransvestite
09-19-2006, 02:00 PM
Once a rivet is popped, you can also take a hack saw blade and cut off the extra. You only need a little bit to hold the part on.

Jedi Ranger
09-19-2006, 02:24 PM
Okay, I'm chiming in!! Thanks for the recommendation/reference, xwingband!

Jadesabre - in case you haven't seen it, below is my hilt that xwingband was talking about.

Personally, I would drill and tap screw holes to hold on the grip plates. That way, there is nothing protruding inside the MHS hilt space.

I used plates from www.onlinemetals.com, and then cut them to length with my dremel. I used my new drill press to drill all the holes. Aluminum is easy to drill. I did not use any oil. Not even on the brass bars, which to get pretty warm though.

The bars I used were 10mm (6/16") wide and .09" thick. I ordered aluminum plates with the same simensions. Here is the exact product data form my bill:
Part #7130, aluminum 5052 H32 bare sheet
Dimensions: 0.09" x 0.375" x 8" (11 gauge).

The 8" length was a custom cut.

I used the short 8-32 machine screw that Tim sells here. There are a perfect length.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/Jedi.Ranger/SW_Gear/IMG_0577_cropped_800b.jpg

jadedsabre
09-19-2006, 03:32 PM
Jedi Ranger, thanks for the reply. I had actually seen your hilt and was very impressed. :)

I hadn't realized Tim sold screws that looked like the rivets I need - that I may have to consider! I wasn't sure I could tap screw holes myself though, and was actually going to have Tim do the thumb screw for me. I will reconsider. I'm also trying to see if I can find someone with a drill press that they'll let me use that would make life a heck of a lot easier.

I'm afraid I'm a bit confused about your bars though. Are they copper, or aluminum? Not that it matters, I guess, since you gave me the info for the aluminum bars. Thanks for the link - that site looks really handy, especially if they're willing to do really small orders!

Jedi Ranger
09-19-2006, 03:40 PM
You're welcome!

That's what's so great about onlinemetals.com! No order is too small! Although, there are some limits to the custom cuts they will do.

Anyway, I used solid brass bars on mine; in that pic they are rather tarnished though. I gave you the data on the aluminum I purchased, as you are wanting to do Mara's hilt, which has silver plates. :wink:

xwingband
09-19-2006, 06:07 PM
Jedi Ranger, thanks for the reply. I had actually seen your hilt and was very impressed. :)

I hadn't realized Tim sold screws that looked like the rivets I need - that I may have to consider! I wasn't sure I could tap screw holes myself though, and was actually going to have Tim do the thumb screw for me. I will reconsider. I'm also trying to see if I can find someone with a drill press that they'll let me use that would make life a heck of a lot easier.

I'm afraid I'm a bit confused about your bars though. Are they copper, or aluminum? Not that it matters, I guess, since you gave me the info for the aluminum bars. Thanks for the link - that site looks really handy, especially if they're willing to do really small orders!

Tapping is quite easy. The depths that you're going to be doing is really too shallow for you to even bother with the customary "turn once, clean it out, turn, clean, etc...". Once you have the hole drilled it's really easy.

jadedsabre
09-30-2006, 12:52 PM
Okay. I have a friend who has offered to let me come over and use his drill press, but I don't know the first thing about drilling and tapping screw holes. I've searched high and low and haven't found any tutorials. Someone come to my rescue, please!

Jedi Ranger recommended the #8-32 machine screws to me, so that's what I'd be using. If it's really easy, I'll probably tap the thumb screw hole for the blade holder then too. Any recommendations on whether I use an #8-32 or the #10-32 thumb screw?

Jedi-Loreen
09-30-2006, 01:03 PM
I'd use a 10-32 for the thumb screw, since you'll only be using one. You get a little bigger "bite" on the blade with the tip of it.

I've also used 1/4-20 screws, but Tim doesn't sell those here.

james3
09-30-2006, 02:18 PM
It really doesn't matter what size you use as the screw pretty much is just used to provide a pressure point for the blade to stay in the holder. I have used several different sized thumbscrews and set screws and I can tell you it all does the same thing. The Mace Windu conversion uses set screws so dang small that I can't see the head when they are down in the hilt. Use what YOU like and are comfortable with :wink:

A little point on tapping. Using the drill press rocks but you will still need the tap set. Ask your buddy if he has one and if not you can order them from Tim or pick them up at the hardware store near you. Always use oil, and remember, a full turn in and a half turn out.

jadedsabre
09-30-2006, 05:17 PM
It really doesn't matter what size you use as the screw pretty much is just used to provide a pressure point for the blade to stay in the holder. I have used several different sized thumbscrews and set screws and I can tell you it all does the same thing. The Mace Windu conversion uses set screws so dang small that I can't see the head when they are down in the hilt. Use what YOU like and are comfortable with :wink:

A little point on tapping. Using the drill press rocks but you will still need the tap set. Ask your buddy if he has one and if not you can order them from Tim or pick them up at the hardware store near you. Always use oil, and remember, a full turn in and a half turn out.

Perhaps I didn't make myself clear enough.

JadedSabre = complete newbie = totally clueless = never done this before

I seriously don't know anything at all about tapping holes. I don't know what a tap set is, where to get it, or how to use it. (Although I suppose you did just tell me that Tim sells them, though I don't remember coming across them in the shop.)

I also don't know what a set screw is. I think I'll go look that up now and see if I can figure out what you mean by that. :?

xwingband
09-30-2006, 05:26 PM
Tapping is simple. It is the process to make threading for a screw. You drill a hole that is too small, them you use the tap to cut the threads. It's really simple.

A set screw is essentially just a threaded rod but small. You use an allen wrench to screw it in and out.

Tap and drill sets are in the tools section also with the handle for the tap.

james3
09-30-2006, 05:53 PM
This is probally overkill for your needs unless you get totally in to this like all of us other fools :wink:
http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/045325217702_4.jpg

Like xwing said if in the store you look at the Tools section you will see the ones he has.

http://thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=34

I promise that tapping is probally one of the easiest things to do to metal. All you need to do is drill the hole with the bit supplied and then use the tap to slowly cut in the threads. I spray a bit of oil on the tap before starting to make the job smoother. As you turn you will feel a little resistance start to build up, when that happens just back it out a bit and then go back in. clean up when your done and wham! Threaded hole :D

jadedsabre
09-30-2006, 07:34 PM
So the tapping process is done by hand, huh? I just buy the tap and drill set from Tim for the size screw I want to use, and the tap handle to manually grind out the drilled hole, then? Well, that does seem really easy. Cool! Thank you guys. That was very helpful.

What's the set screw used for? I wasn't able to find a reference in the shop or forums.

xwingband
09-30-2006, 07:45 PM
Yup, tapping is done manually.

There is only one set screw in the store (for EL blades) but any hardware store should have an assortment of them.

james3
09-30-2006, 08:24 PM
I use a set screw to hold my blades in the holder. The thumb screw is just to big and bulky for my tastes and I also hold the saber real close to the top so it tended to get in my way.

Jedi-Loreen
09-30-2006, 09:40 PM
Nice tap and die set, James.

I learned how to use all kinds of tools when I used to be an ATM technician for Bank of America.

Many of which have served me well when I started to get into saber making. :D

james3
09-30-2006, 10:04 PM
Yep, same here. One of my brother's jumped on a saber that I built from CCTV parts and gun parts. Learning to use a large variety of tools and technology I think is a great idea for everyone that can take advantage of it.

joe104
10-09-2006, 09:40 PM
i like the look if you get it done post up some pictures

Spencer_P
10-17-2006, 11:59 AM
However, there are still a few things I haven't quite figured out yet, so I thought I would post here and see if anyone had any helpful advice for me.

1. The blade holder. It's a simplified version of style 8, so I think I need to ask Tim about a custom order, without the additional machining to narrow the diameter.

2. The "switch". I haven't had a chance to peruse the hardware store yet, so I'm not sure where to find the big bracket, the ribbed ring that circles the hilt, or the small "buttons" on top - some replicas use LEDs but I have yet to find two replicas that are the same, so I do have a bit of play in this area. (I am planning on using the normal MHS hole for the actual, functioning power switch, ala the Parks sabers.)

3. The rails on the lower end of the hilt that are riveted on. They seem simple enough though, so I'm hoping I can walk into a hardware store and find them already cut.

4. Drilling holes. What do I need to know about drilling holes in the aluminum (the MHS hilts are aluminum, right?) for the rivets? What tools do I need for this? (I've never used a Dremel before, and have no idea of its wonders...)

5. Blind-rivets, also known as pop-rivets. Does anyone know if I'll still have room in the hilt for the electronics if I pepper the hilt with blind-rivets? I've never used them before, so I'm not sure how far they will protrude into the blind side of the hilt.

Many thanks in advance. I'm so excited - I totally cannot wait to order the parts and get started! I just want to make sure I've covered all of my bases before I shell out all the $$ and then find out I can't actually assemble it.

-Jaded

I actually did a hardware LED saber modeled after Jade's lightsaber, so maybe I can help.

2. I used two pieces of aluminum U-shaped stuff. The smaller piece happens to fit well inside the larger piece. I attached it directly to the hilt, skipping the ribbed ring thing entirely. I used a buttonhead machine screw and a socket head cap screw.
Incidently, I would recommend getting a power switch that doesn't cause the blade to flicker when you tap it, since switch on this saber is located right where your hands are. This switch would probably work well, although I havn't tried it personally: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=188
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/MJsaber002.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/MJsaber003.jpg

3. Those grips were a major pain for me to make. If you can get them precut from that place Jedi Ranger mentioned, it'll probably save you some time. You'll still have to drill the holes though.

4. Be careful when you drill. If you put a hole in the wrong place, it's hard to move it. Take your time and measure well. You may want to get some extra grip pieces in case you mess up a few. For my hilt, I drilled the holes in all the grips first, and then used each grip as a template to help me drill the two specific holes that would fit that grip in the main body of the saber. Once I got the first grip riveted in, I was able to use it as a guide to help me get all the other grips lined up and drilled right. Jedi Ranger may have a better way to get all the grips lined up.
I used 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick aluminum for my grips. Ten pieces of this stuff fit almost perfectly around the circumference of a 1.5" diameter sinktube.

5. I used rivets and was able to fit my stuff in (battery pack, switch, and LED with heatsink). The rivets make it rather tight inside though, and you may have trouble gettting your battery pack in and out.
Actually, from the pictures I've seen of various Mara hilts, I think that buttonhead screws are what should be used, although I don't know exactly what the original Mara hilt looked like. The only thing about buttonheads is that they cost more than rivets.
Here's a photo of the inside of my hilt:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/MJsaber001.jpg


And here's a couple of general photos: http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/props033.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/props035.jpg

EDIT: Hey, I'm an apprentice at last! Yee ha!

Jedi-Loreen
10-17-2006, 12:34 PM
Wow, nice job! :shock:

Any pics of it lit up, with a blade?

Spencer_P
10-17-2006, 12:50 PM
Thanks! Sure, here's one of the blade:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/props021.jpg

Jedi-Loreen
10-17-2006, 12:53 PM
Ooooh, purty! :D

JediMcD
10-17-2006, 02:30 PM
Nice job with that saber. I like the metal grips. How did you create the circular indentions around the middle of the hilt

Lord Maul
10-17-2006, 02:37 PM
could yo upost a pic of the whole hilt?

Spencer_P
10-17-2006, 03:04 PM
JediMcD: The indentions were done with a pipe cutter.
Lord Maul: I did post one picture of the whole thing, but it may not have appeared on your browser. Anyway, here's a link to the photo:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/props033.jpg

Lord Maul
10-17-2006, 03:20 PM
wow, that thing is awesome. i love the short T grips at the emitter

Barmic Rin
05-19-2007, 04:17 AM
Dusting off an old topic.....

Has anyone tried using this grip method with Tim's new Double Fem Milled & Dividers? Or maybe something similar.
I'm not too worried about the size difference, I just wonder if the finish will be how i'm after.

I'm loving the Mara saber, but I wanna attempt Wolf Sazen's Hilt (legacy comics)

I can't find any pics to post, but if you haven't seen it, think Qui-gon with Mara grips.
I've worked out how to MHS & sinkpipe it, just working out my options for the grip.