First Build Assembly Questions

[IvPalmer]

Greetings again!

Sorry, I've been kinda flooding the forums with question I know :rolleyes:

But I have yet another I'd like to ask you guys. Today I finally got to test my first build at the laboratory and, hooray, it works!

Some pictures of the assembly:

7772

7773

I have no batteries yet, so I used a CC Power Source, tried a voltage of 5V.

Here's a video of the assembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBb83RE05dc&feature=youtu.be

Here's the Scheme I'm using:

7774

So, questions:

1. My current problem is, as you may have noticed, i'm using two momentary switches, the one for Aux is ok, but the one for activation only turns the saber off when i hold it, and well i don't want that. Have I made a big mistake in ordering two momentary switches? Is there any way out besides buying a non-momentary one? I have no time to order one (I have to finish this until the end of the month), so i'd have to find it around my city, but I already ordered the hilt with two holes, so that's another problem I guess.

2. Even with a non-momentary activation switch, with batteries on, the board will never be trully off, right? When I press the activation switch, it doesn't turn everything off, does it? If i don't have a kill-switch and make in-hilt recharging, I'd have to remove batteries everytime i stop using?

3. If you pay attention to the video, my aux button keeps blinking, is that normal? How do I make it stop?


Thanks in advance again guys, you all have been extremely helpfull!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Greetings again!

Sorry, I've been kinda flooding the forums with question I know :rolleyes:

But I have yet another I'd like to ask you guys. Today I finally got to test my first build at the laboratory and, hooray, it works!

Some pictures of the assembly:

7772

7773

I have no batteries yet, so I used a CC Power Source, tried a voltage of 5V.

Here's a video of the assembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBb83RE05dc&feature=youtu.be

Here's the Scheme I'm using:

7774

So, questions:

1. My current problem is, as you may have noticed, i'm using two momentary switches, the one for Aux is ok, but the one for activation only turns the saber off when i hold it, and well i don't want that. Have I made a big mistake in ordering two momentary switches? Is there any way out besides buying a non-momentary one? I have no time to order one (I have to finish this until the end of the month), so i'd have to find it around my city, but I already ordered the hilt with two holes, so that's another problem I guess.

2. Even with a non-momentary activation switch, with batteries on, the board will never be trully off, right? When I press the activation switch, it doesn't turn everything off, does it? If i don't have a kill-switch and make in-hilt recharging, I'd have to remove batteries everytime i stop using?

3. If you pay attention to the video, my aux button keeps blinking, is that normal? How do I make it stop?


Thanks in advance again guys, you all have been extremely helpfull!

OK, I'm admittedly a bit tired so I'll make this quick:

1. You may need to change the setting on the SD card for the momentary switch -> switch=2. That's probably your problem. Also if you are going to try this, set the bench supply for 7.4V which is what your battery pack is, just make sure you have the appropriate resistors in place first for the various LED's.

2. The batteries would last quite a while, but if you are going to not use it for a month or so, I would remove the batteries if you do not use a recharge port.

3. The way you have it wired, yes it is normal. Depend on what you want to do, it depending on what you need to do to fix it.

[IvPalmer]

So I can use the momentary switch to light the saber on and off without having to hold it? Geez that's a relief!

I've got one 82ohm 1/4w resistor for each switch, is that ok? Also, the main LED doesn't need a resistor right?

Guess i'll buy the jacks tomorrow and go for a recharge port, just thinking about opening the hilt to remove the batteries makes my head hurt.

What I want is both switches to be continually lit while the saber is on, and when i press the activation one, both would go off. Is that possible?


Thanks a lot mate

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The resistors should work for now. I'll check the math when I'm awake. What you want LED wise in possible, but you don't have main switch LED wired at all, the wiring diagram will need adjusting, now that I know what you want to do.

[Silver Serpent]

You'll need to adjust your LEDS.TXT file on the SD card to set the switch LED behavior. Page 24 of the PC2.0 manual has instructions on this.

Your resistors are fine. I calculated a 68ohm resistor, but a little extra won't hurt, since those switch LEDs are plenty bright. I'd just put the second switch LED on the second accent LED pad. Remember that they have a common ground. Later on, you may decide you want one LED on constant, while the other blinks.

[IvPalmer]

My second switch LED is not wired because the pre wired Petit Crouton didn't came with both accent LED Pads wired. I was afraid to screw it up, it's a very tight space between those Pads.

By extra resistor you mean two resistors for each switch? The Main LED (Rebel Star) doesn't need a resistor right?

So basically only thing i need to do is wire up the second switch to the LED Pad and common ground, set the "switch" setting to "2", as it will make the momentary switch work, and put a value of "0" on the delay setting, like:
...
random=0
s00=00
d00=00
...

Anything else?

Thanks a lot guys

[Silver Serpent]

No, just one resistor for each switch LED. Main LED doesn't need a resistor. By extra I meant that the 86ohm you have is a little more than the 68ohm I calculated. It'll work just fine (as I saw in your video).


random=0
s00=11
d00=65535

That should have both LED pads on continuously while the saber is on.

If you have a fine tip on your soldering iron and a steady hand, you should be able to get the second pad soldered. It'd be easier to attach the second ground wire to the first ground wire, instead of trying to have two wires attached to the same ground pad.

[IvPalmer]

Great! thanks! Will try that today!

You guys usually use any kind of PVC case to protect all the eletronics? I'm thinking on making one, so stuff doesn't get loose inside the hilt

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, now that I'm awake... instead of wiring the main switch LED to the second pad, you can wire it to the 3.3V pad (that's what it is there for), and it may be easier for you to do. This way, the main switch will light up when you pull the kill key. Otherwise, you will have to do some tight soldering ahead of you.

You can do a PVC chassis, though most of us use some type of chassis disk system to keep everything secure. It varies a little depending on the builder.

[IvPalmer]

Hmmm didn't knew that, I'll try to find some thin tip soldering iron and see if i can wire up the other LED Pad, if it gets too hard i'll wire the 3.3 one!

Thanks guys!

[IvPalmer]

So I'm facing a little issue with internal space here

I'm trying to put together some sort of "housing" so my Petit Crouton sits safely inside the hilt, but it's really hard!

Here's some pictures so you guys can see what my build looks like

7810
7811
7812
7813
7814

The PVC casing I did is not really working, the speaker + battery is really tight and leaves little room for the PVC. Anyone has any ideas of what I could do to make the Petit Crouton safe inside the hilt? I don't wanna just leave her inside without protection.

Thanks guys

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind, ;)

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis. ;)

[TrypWyr]

Just a little tip here that's been great for me:

For putting soundboards in the smaller diameter ribbed pieces, M&M's Minis tubes are perfect. They slide right in there but still loose enough to screw the parts tegether and not twist your wires. Not the prettiest if you are looking for a reveal, but wonderful for those sabers you would rather not open often/ever.

BTW, love that design, simple and elegant. You plan on any paint?

[IvPalmer]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind, ;)

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis. ;)

Haha yes, I indeed will plan ahead next time.
I've been reading around the forums and people say it's not recommended to make a recharge port with the batteries i'm using (two trustfire 14500 3.7V 900mha) because of a heating problem. So I only wired the jack to have a kill switch. I think the wires are long enough, I will try as you suggested and see if it it's better to put the PC at the grenade! Thanks :)


Just a little tip here that's been great for me:

For putting soundboards in the smaller diameter ribbed pieces, M&M's Minis tubes are perfect. They slide right in there but still loose enough to screw the parts tegether and not twist your wires. Not the prettiest if you are looking for a reveal, but wonderful for those sabers you would rather not open often/ever.

BTW, love that design, simple and elegant. You plan on any paint?

That's an amazing idea! I will surely try!
Thanks! I plan on painting the inner grenade part with frosted black, and maybe get some leather wrap on the hilt. I'll also try some aluminium black weathering at some parts. I'll post pics when i'm done :)


Thanks for the help guys!

[IvPalmer]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind, ;)

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis. ;)

Also, I keep seeing people using this chassis that you're using:

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/forgetfuljediknight/Traveller/DSC00247.jpg

I searched the shop over and over and found nothing that looked like that, did you made it?

Amazing saber by the way! Congratulations

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Also, I keep seeing people using this chassis that you're using:

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/forgetfuljediknight/Traveller/DSC00247.jpg

I searched the shop over and over and found nothing that looked like that, did you made it?

Amazing saber by the way! Congratulations

I assembled the chassis into the configuration you see, but the parts were purchased elsewhere ( a long, long time ago) - chassis parts weren't offered here years ago. The person I got my disks from a long time ago is no longer active in the community as of now.

[IvPalmer]

Geez im such a genius.... they do sell in the shop! u_u

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-PC-20-and-14500-stick-pack-P769.aspx

Well no time to order one now, guess i'll have to make it work with what I have!

I feel so stupid...

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, there you go... like many of life's lessons, one tends to learn them the hard way, and just a little too late. Now, you know better for "next time" or when you decide to upgrade this saber of yours. ;)

[Kaide]

Just thought i'd add my 2 cents.

As for a chassis. All you really need is some way to keep the board from directly touching the aluminium of the hilt. Do you have any plastic cheap toy light sabers with the collapsible blades? $20 from walmart....If so, cut off a chunk of the blade & use that...ive done it on many custom builds.

Also, ive done a build similar to this (battery setup wise w/out a kill key), and you're right. The board stays on even while turned off. I tested it several times, & the trustfires will last about 4 days w/out use & 2.5 days with use. So buy a 2nd pair and keep them charged and ready to go, so you always have a charged set to swap in.

[IvPalmer]

Just thought i'd add my 2 cents.

As for a chassis. All you really need is some way to keep the board from directly touching the aluminium of the hilt. Do you have any plastic cheap toy light sabers with the collapsible blades? $20 from walmart....If so, cut off a chunk of the blade & use that...ive done it on many custom builds.

Also, ive done a build similar to this (battery setup wise w/out a kill key), and you're right. The board stays on even while turned off. I tested it several times, & the trustfires will last about 4 days w/out use & 2.5 days with use. So buy a 2nd pair and keep them charged and ready to go, so you always have a charged set to swap in.

Unfortunately, those sabers cost about $100 here, so i'm gonna give a try with the m&m tube first haha

I have an aluminium tube that fits inside the hilt, but I think the PVC or the m&m tube might be more secure.

As for the batteries, I did wire a jack with a kill switch (you can see in the picture I think), though it wont be a recharge port. At least my batteries will survive longer.

Thanks!

[IvPalmer]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind, ;)

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis. ;)

I tried your idea yesterday and made a PVC chassis that fits perfectly into the front grenade section, but I ran into a problem. When I have everything wired, the switches are on the hilt section, so when I put the parts together I have to rotate either the hilt or the grenade and it twists the wires a lot. Also, the PC gets really hot in there, is it safe to have her in this section, near the LED?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It all comes down to planning, which includes planning the assembly installation. From what I saw, how I would attack this is put the switches in first, then the battery pack and speaker. Once that is done, put the PC in the grenade section then screw it to the main body piece, you will have to hold the PC chassis still (using tweezers or small pliers) while screwing the two pieces together, so there isn't as much twist, once those two sections are done, put the main LED assembly in place and screw on the blade holder, then the pommel and test it out.

Heat is sometimes an issue, but it all goes back to the design, you picked a removable battery pack holder and speaker comb, so you leave yourself little option. You may want to lower the output to the main LED (super bright = super hot) if it is really concerning, plus getting the PC as close as you can to the bottom of the grenade section (toward the switches) would be also a bit helpful.

A very extreme solution is to maybe drill a ring of small holes where the grooves intersect in one "ring" near where the heatsink is.

[IvPalmer]

It all comes down to planning, which includes planning the assembly installation. From what I saw, how I would attack this is put the switches in first, then the battery pack and speaker. Once that is done, put the PC in the grenade section then screw it to the main body piece, you will have to hold the PC chassis still (using tweezers or small pliers) while screwing the two pieces together, so there isn't as much twist, once those two sections are done, put the main LED assembly in place and screw on the blade holder, then the pommel and test it out.

Heat is sometimes an issue, but it all goes back to the design, you picked a removable battery pack holder and speaker comb, so you leave yourself little option. You may want to lower the output to the main LED (super bright = super hot) if it is really concerning, plus getting the PC as close as you can to the bottom of the grenade section (toward the switches) would be also a bit helpful.

A very extreme solution is to maybe drill a ring of small holes where the grooves intersect in one "ring" near where the heatsink is.

Hmmm this might work! I'll have to sand down the chassis a little bit though, cause he's really tight now.

I'm indeed trying to place the PC as close to the switches as possible, also because the LED wire is really long, but i'll see how it goes and if it gets too hot I'll consider the holes! While a good idea, this battery pack - speaker combo takes a lot of space! Next time i'll buy them separately.

Thanks man

[IvPalmer]

Just passing by to say it's almost done! :)

7908

I finally got everything inside the hilt, had to cut more than half of all the wires though..

Just need to paint and put everything back inside now (the yellow tapes are the parts i wont paint)

Also, i have to swing it pretty hard for any noise to come out, i dont know if it's because of where the PC is located (grenade section) or because the sensitivity parameter is too low, it's currently on 55. Should I increase it?

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Just passing by to say it's almost done! :)

7908

I finally got everything inside the hilt, had to cut more than half of all the wires though..

Just need to paint and put everything back inside now (the yellow tapes are the parts i wont paint)

Also, i have to swing it pretty hard for any noise to come out, i dont know if it's because of where the PC is located (grenade section) or because the sensitivity parameter is too low, it's currently on 55. Should I increase it?

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

Yes, you will have to increase the sensitivity, since you have the board so far up in the hilt. Try around 70-75. ;)