General hilt building [Archive] - The Custom Saber Shop Forums

James

10-12-2006, 08:39 PM

Has anyone seen Hasbro's "build your own lightsaber" kit?
I know, the sound and blade - not worth the having!
But - I did buy one to try to explain an idea to some friends:
about how I would like to make a hilt that would be flexible.

The kit contains 2 basic pieces:
1. the hilt - a plastic, tube shaped thing which houses the electronics and
so on.
2. body pieces - these pieces slide over the 'hilt' piece to give the saber
it's look - be it a DV style saber, As, LS, or whatever
My idea is very similar

a metal 'frame which consists mostly of 3 parts
main tube ( 1 1/4" OD about 7" long)
it would have holes for electrical connectors as well as screws.
speaker-end end cap ( screws on main tube)
blade-end end cap (screw on to main tube)
this piece has a metal tube which sticks out about 3 1/4" and holds
the blade secure.

body pieces
could be made of plastic, resin or whatever...
they slide over the metal frame, secured by screws

the metal frame should be sized so that both EL and LED style blades
would work (small, simple parts would be the only difference between
the two types. the main parts would be the same)

Any ideas or comments???

For the hilt
Use

xwingband

10-12-2006, 08:48 PM

Dude... you just described the Modular Hilt System! Available... RIGHT HERE! :lol:

Sink tubes and PVC slip right on top of it... lots of pommels, emitters, grips and now claws.

Wu-Li Ruwashii

11-18-2007, 02:19 PM

x-wing, i have a question.

i would like to make a hole in the center of the mps insert style 1 capable of housing the standard switches sold at TCSS.

what is the diameter of the hole? also, should i drill the hole, or is there an easier way?

Jay-gon Jinn

11-18-2007, 02:22 PM

I'm not x-wing, but I think have ananswer for you...the hole for the switches is 3/8 inch. Best way to make the hole is with a drill.

Wu-Li Ruwashii

11-18-2007, 02:29 PM

thanks jay-gon... i think i would like my aux switch down at the bottom of the pommel, and the style 2 insert isn't as visually appealing to me. now all i need is my buttered toast to come in the mail!

LadyMoro

01-03-2008, 02:40 AM

Currently I am working on the pommel from Mace Windu's Ep. 1 saber for my saber....

I found that using a generic shower head that I bought at True Value Hardware has the angles etc., for the pommel. I'm taking pictures and am nearly finished with the first one, so it has been an experience to try and measure out the ten arms, as I call them from the center piece. so as soon as I finish, I would be more than glad to share the pictures and nightmares I had with this for anyone else to try. I've only found one place that has a pommel that looks a little like it but is another saber place..... $40 for it..... The shower head was less than $10 and my time and some chrome spray paint is a lot less and looks more like the original pommel, mostly....

Lord Sceleris

02-13-2008, 09:09 AM

Is there an easy way, or tool that can be used to tighten switch nuts and the like inside the hilt tube? I was practicing last night and it wasn't the easiest thing I've done....lol

reddragon56

04-27-2008, 12:51 PM

jw out of curiousity , and not tryin to advert for anyone .as im new to these forums , i ask has anyone tryed doing a maglite saber , i recently bought a luxeon flashilight thats brighter than my led maglite and it would be a great lightsaber if i can get the appropriate connector to affix a blade to it.

DARTH KALEL

04-27-2008, 01:03 PM

you need a set of machinists wrenches, you can get them at pep boys or similar and they are just 8 to 12 inch long wrenches from the really small to like 3/4. I picked up a set of snap ons for like 60.00 but they are really nice, but they had some cheaper ones for like 20.00

I've been trying to find out the same thing, i'm trying to design the blade holder now if I have any luck I will let you know. it's going to be a custom lathed piece so..

zadjii

05-11-2008, 03:00 PM

Reddragon, i don't know if this answers your question, but here it goes:

on a big maglight (the one that takes 3 D batteries), if you unscrew the cap and take out the mirror there should be the bulb and a big empty space. SCH 40 1" pvc jut so happens to fit that gap pretty well. (1 or 2 millimeters of space.) once you firmly secure the pvc to the maglite (how i am not quite sure), the 1 in polycarbonate tube should fit in quite snugly. i am not sure if this will work, seeing how i don't have any polyC to test with. then just put a lens on it of your color choice on it.

if this works, it would be one bright-as-hell blade:D

Phiily Manyaan

07-06-2008, 07:24 PM

If I wanted to put a sink tube overlay over my existing saber, do I need the sinktube adapter or can I just drill n tap holes in the existing parts. I know in theory that would obviously work, but I didn't know if the adapter piece was more special than just pre drilled holes.

Jedi-Loreen

07-07-2008, 12:41 AM

The sink tube adapter is only for making sabers out of a sink tube, without hilt or extension pieces, for example. The electronics go inside the sink tube, and the blade holder screws onto the adapter.

The MHS parts (hilts and extension pieces) are made for a sink tube to slip over, specifically so that you can use one to make over lays. Cut to your desired shape and secure as necessary. :wink:

astromech_kuhns

08-04-2008, 08:15 PM

2. body pieces - these pieces slide over the 'hilt' piece to give the saber it's look - be it a DV style saber, As, LS, or whatever

what is the diffrence between the DV AS and LS aaber styles?

Thanks(pics would be nice)

Kolton Kuhns

Tradeliphine

08-30-2008, 07:06 AM

I was just wondering what you guys find to be the best way to get good lines cut in a tube or sink tube without goofing up. Is it merely practice, or do you cut small and file out to the lines? I tried using a rotary/engraving/cutting type bit in my dremel and was having a hard time getting true lines, and it kept wandering, so I searched some more and heard people use just plain cutoff wheels, and i tried that but still dont find it to be as square as i would like. thanks much

swear000

08-30-2008, 07:16 AM

Cutting wheels work but they do wander. You have to cover everything with masking tape. Then you have to use a diamond cutting wheel. I got one from American Science and Surplus. You should steady the piece in a vice and have both hands on the dremel when using it. Laser cutting is probably better but I wouldn't expect it to be cheap. After the piece is cut, you should file it (preferably with a diamond file).

You might be able to mill out sections but finding a mill is a challenge. Those things are to expensive to buy for just a few saber pieces.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie

08-30-2008, 11:50 AM

As for me, I just use a cut off wheel and files. I don't cut right on the line, I leave a little margin for error and clean it up with a file. It takes a while, but you have more control doing the last bit by hand. As you practice with the Dremel, you can leave less margin to file away. I usually only leave about 1mm, but I have a pretty steady hand. You may want to leave more than that.

The other trick is to take your time, and don't try to carve too much material at once. You basically want to shave the material away.

Pick up a set of assorted jeweler's files. They cost under $10, but they're worth their weight in gold.

B5813

08-30-2008, 07:50 PM

gundamaniac

08-30-2008, 08:09 PM

Dremel cut off wheel to take off the bulk of material and then use sanding drums to fine tune the work down to the lines you want it to be at. Using the dremel sanding drum pretty well ensures you will not remove too much material at once or have the tool wander off your intended line. Use the low(rough) grit initially and then the smaller grit ones when you're just about there.

That's pretty much what I do, with one extra step. I use normal cut-off wheels and cut just shy of the line, about a millimeter or so like Obi-Dar. Then I use a sanding drum to bring the metal edge to the line I want it to be on. I generally use a very light touch when I get near the line I want. This helps me get pretty even curves and lines. Then afterwards I use sandpaper to really smooth out the edges and get rid of burrs and other little sharp bits so there ain't no chance of me ever cutting myself on an edge I Dremel'ed. You might want to try a file between the sanding drum step and the sandpaper step...I personally don't use a file because I generally get the shape I intend with my sanding drum.

Everyone's got their own way of doing it...just remember that it takes alot of practice and patience...soooooo much friggin' patience....:rolleyes:

darth singe

10-06-2008, 01:21 PM

does anybody know how to contact Brian at Lightsabers from the big yellow box

xwingband

10-06-2008, 02:36 PM

does anybody know how to contact Brian at Lightsabers from the big yellow box

He dropped off the face of the earth a long time ago. I think tripod is only keeping the site up because it generates traffic.

Count Malik

10-06-2008, 05:22 PM

He dropped off the face of the earth a long time ago. I think tripod is only keeping the site up because it generates traffic.

Yeah the sight is there... I used to look at those hilt like when I was 7 years old! I'm 14 now and 7 was the last time he posted any updates

enigma1337

10-16-2008, 12:23 PM

So I've wanted to build a saber for a long time, and sure I can look at all the parts, but I'm not sure what I actually need. Could someone post a list that identifies what components I need for a LED saber?

unless theres one already and I couldn't find it :P

Donnovan Sunrider

10-16-2008, 12:27 PM

Welcome to the forum!

Here's where you start. Read through these for a primer.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35

Then take some time to just browse among the forums. The best way to get the basics down is to see what other folks have done. It may not be the fastest way, but you'll have a much better understanding that way.

Here's a list to start with. Some of my personal favorites from the board here. A number of these are walk-throughs showing each step of the process.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4783
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2575
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3864
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2997
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3059
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3992
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5052
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6071
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5615

enigma1337

10-16-2008, 09:13 PM

thanks for all the links, now i guess i have some thinking to do about my design--do most of you usually draw it out first? or develop the design over time or have some parts and just think about what you want to do next?

Gandrobacca

11-15-2008, 05:37 PM

General hilt building question:

Regarding these new "activation boxes" at the shop, how would I attach one to my hilt? My guess would be to drill through them and bolt them on. Two of the three are contoured to fit flush against a hilt. Besides price, what advantages might these new parts have over a graflex-style clamp? Also, the activation boxes would leave two "open" sides...how can this be properly "finished?"

I had considered incorporating a new activation box into my next saber design, but after grappling with these issues, seems to me like a regular old clamp would be a whole lot easier...

Thoughts?

B5813

11-15-2008, 06:47 PM

My thought is there's nothing easy about working a switch into a Graflex clamp. Lots of small work on several small pieces. The boxes are straight forward... drill a hole... file out a rectangle... whatever... and the wires don't have to be fished through anything other than the inside of the hilt. With the G clamp I mounted a switch in one of the side "boxes" then had to open up a hole on the flush side the box mounts against. I've said it before that a Graflex flash tube wasn't intended to be made into a light saber with all kinds of delicate electrical work so the customization is harder.

Gandrobacca

11-16-2008, 07:06 PM

Some good points.

Despite never actually working on a graflex clamp, I can appreciate that these are delicate things. Any ideas on finishing the "open" sides of an activation box, or do you think this would not even be necessary/noticeable?

RandallFlagg

12-02-2008, 08:12 AM

I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to.
There's a clip in the middle of the Graflex hilt that you turn to tighten, then flip flush with the clamp. We use similar items like this at my job, but no one there knows what they're called -and these are 30-year senior mechanics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/aaargoxx/Lightsabres/Grafclamp.jpg
I've placed an arrow to specify the thing.

What is the actual name for this kind of bolt/clamp/clasp/whatevertheheck device?

Lord Maul

12-02-2008, 04:11 PM

Not sure if this is the technical name, but everyone usually calls it the "clamp lever"

RandallFlagg

12-02-2008, 04:19 PM

Not sure if this is the technical name, but everyone usually calls it the "clamp lever"

Sweet. I'll google that now. I don't think I've tried that phrase yet.
Thanks.

Edit: That about as close as I've ever come to the name of it. Seems that they're used on bicycles a lot. Thanks again.

Jedi-Loreen

12-02-2008, 05:40 PM

Randall Flagg? The "Walkin' Dude"? :eek:

RandallFlagg

12-02-2008, 05:51 PM

Randall Flagg? The "Walkin' Dude"? :eek:

Heh! But is Flagg Sith, or Jedi? Only time will tell, friend.
:twisted:

jedimastergarcia87

03-23-2009, 01:44 PM

I'm wanting to build 4 pvc based sabers. anyone got any ideas for sized and diamitors for LED's, battery packs, lens's, etc? Thanks for the help! My email is joshgarcia07@yahoo.com I just joined the forums today. Thanks for the help and may the force be with you all! :) I'm wanting to build 4 sabers, two for me and my bro, one for his cousin, and one for my buddy. Also, would there be pvc based emmitors/pommels?

Jay-gon Jinn

03-23-2009, 01:47 PM

Maven

07-04-2009, 03:23 PM

*waits till no one is looking*

....

*Steals Jay-gon Jinn's lightsaber*

awesome :)

love your tutorial on how to make your saber... can't seem to find it now...

Sairon

07-07-2009, 07:40 AM

Go into jay-gons user panel and into his statistics, hit "threads by jay-gon'' or whatever, and find the thread you want.

Lord Maul

07-07-2009, 10:39 AM

Or just go to the A to Z build threads section of the forums. Most of the threads there are Jay's

jedimastergarcia87

04-22-2010, 01:58 PM

Which MHS parts can I make an Obi-wan saber out of? Wanting one between episodes 3 and 4. Wouldn't it be: Pommel, gear, switch, grenade section, then blade holder?

Jedi-Loreen

04-22-2010, 02:30 PM

As I said in the Shoutbox ;):

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/JediLoreen/Lightsabers/MHSObi-wan.jpg

xl97

04-23-2010, 09:44 AM

dont forget to turn OFF threads hints.. and color/PC your parts to get more accurate looking/feel..and more accurate pricing if you plan on having Tim PC your parts.

Council Six

08-09-2010, 03:18 AM

This is my design and plan for a saber-staff, only with one blade on one end. Basically, it's a light-saber with a 40" handle. Sounds ridiculous but it should be pretty sweet. It doesn't sound so difficult until I mention the best part; it will have two blades, only one of them will run inside the hilt. There are a few crystal chamber extensions connecting the larger extensions of the hilt which I want to glow red like the blade. So, my idea was to have a second LED light facing down the hilt opposite of the blade to illuminate the 1" thin walled tube that would also accomodate the hilt's length. For creative flair I plan on wrapping the entire hilt in black athletic tape, except for the chambered extensions that will showcase the second glow coming from within the hilt itself.

So, what do you think? I recognize that the picture is extremely poor quality but you can probably get what I'm going for.

Jedi-Loreen

08-09-2010, 04:28 AM

I think it may not work the way you think it will.

Oh, and your Covertec button is upside down.

Skottsaber

08-09-2010, 06:26 AM

If you have the cash, go for it.
Just... 40" is just a bit long...

Darth Midian

08-09-2010, 01:41 PM

Council, that's a really cool idea but I have to agree with Scottsaber. That's alot of hilt. I think it would be very awkward to handle if you plan on dueling with it. If you're planning a standerd sized blade, the hilt is going to be longer than the blade. Since you want to make a long hilt maybe knock it down to 24" to 27". That's just my thought. I'll be looking forward to seeing what you do, good luck.

RevengeoftheSeth

08-09-2010, 05:11 PM

I have a 14.5" single hilt and that is very long. Putting two back to back would be perfect for a double saber, though. I wouldn't go any longer than that.

Council Six

08-09-2010, 08:36 PM

yeah I recognize that its extremely long for a single blade, but thats kind've the point! I was thinking it would be a Darth Nihl kind of style. Very Unique. Heres a few pictures.

http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Darth_Nihl

Darth Midian

08-09-2010, 08:47 PM

Dude, I love Darth Nihls saber. I'm going to try & build a version of it out of pvc. But not for a while. I have his hilt estimated at about 27". That's why I suggested 24". In my opinion, I just think 40" may be a bit to much. I doesn't matter what I think, if that's what you have your heart set on go for. I was just voicing an opinion.

Council Six

08-09-2010, 08:52 PM

Well it's a long way off at the moment. When it comes out of the concept phase and into the construction phase I'll take that into account. I think I need to take a measuring tape and actually measure out how long it would be. I might be thinking it'd be shorter than it would be in reality.

RevengeoftheSeth

08-09-2010, 09:01 PM

Darth Midian

08-09-2010, 09:32 PM

That's the pic I guestamated it from. I figured his bottom fist to be by his waist, I'm guessing that the loop is roughly the size of his fist, so I went with about 4" below the belt line. I grabbed a yard stick & held it just like Nihl in the picture. Starting from the bottom 4" below my belt line. I placed one hand by my belt, my other hand by my jaw line, it was around 28"-29". I like 27" better, so that's what I'm going with. That's how I guestamated the hilt length.

Ronan

08-09-2010, 11:27 PM

Have you considered PVC for an alternative?

Just throwing it out there, especially after seeing HAVOC's work with PVC.

Council Six

08-10-2010, 03:17 PM

Yeah I havent grabbed a yard stick and actually measured out 40" yet, but I have a background in martial arts and bo staves in particular. I use a 6' staff, so I thought I might want to have the blade and the hilt together equal roughly 6' and I like the idea of a hilt longer than the blade but I don't know, it might look kinda dumb. I'll definitely measure it out ASAP and see what length I like.

I have considered using PVC but I like the idea of using metal more. And I really love the MHS on TCSS. Although PVC seems to be the cheaper way to go. I guess it all depends on how much I'm willing to pay to get the results I am looking for. My fear with PVC is that at 40" long it will bend like bamboo. It is fine to work with at lengths for a normal single hilt, but even with the OD and thick walls it can have a slight bend in it once it gets over a few feet long.

RevengeoftheSeth

08-10-2010, 03:35 PM

Maybe you could turn it into a lighlance or a lightspear! That would be pretty sick. I don't think anyone has done one like that, yet.

Council Six

08-10-2010, 04:28 PM

Yeah I just measured out 40" on a length of PVC I had lying around and cut it to size. I really like it. It was definitely longer than I anticipated, but in a good way. (Thats what she said)

I connected another 32" section of PVC to simulate the blade and it looked really nice. I don't know if I like it though, I might take it down to 30" or 28" but again it all depends on how I feel about the finished hilt. - which is another reason why I wanted to use the MHS to construct this beast.

In regards to my idea about the interior blade running down the remaining hilt using a second LED - is it possible? I mean, it would really just be a double bladed interior setup with the second blade inside the hilt body. Or do the double bladed sabers use two separate buttons? I can't imagine it being that difficult to connect a second LED to the same switch and battery pack, but that would require a larger Battery pack, right?

Skottsaber

08-11-2010, 09:59 AM

Metal hilt that long is going to be HEAVY!
+a blade...

You better be quite muscly.

Council Six

08-11-2010, 11:28 AM

Hah yeah I'm pretty strong. Like I said though I might bring it down from the 6' total length by about 6 to 8 inches as I see fit. I don't think it'll be a problem though, I used to train with a solid wooden 6' bo staff that weighed next to 10 lbs.

Darth Midian

08-13-2010, 10:26 AM

Council, I saw Jin's lightspear. I posted a reply to you there. I wasn't thinking outside the box. I was just thinking of standard saberplay, there is no reason why your idea wouldn't work, go for it.

Council Six

08-13-2010, 04:23 PM

Yeah I read your reply, no worries! I was really excited to find his thread because it reassured me that my concept was not only valid but very dynamic! I'll keep you posted on my progress and post pictures as much as I can. I think first I have to work up the cash for the parts though... It'll probably be a while.

Council Six

08-14-2010, 12:28 AM

I just a few quick questions about the MHS parts. First, how heavy are they? For instance, how much does a 10 inch extension piece weigh? A rough estimate would be fine. Also, do they stay together well with just the threading or would you have to secure it a different way for a long lasting hold?

Jedi-Loreen

08-14-2010, 12:40 AM

I don't know of anyone ever weighing their parts. They're aluminum, they aren't heavy.

You don't need anything else to secure the parts together, just check the periodically if you do a lot of dueling and/or twirling, to make sure they stay screwed tightly together.

If you have a problem with them loosening, you could put a little teflon tape on the male threads.

Skottsaber

08-14-2010, 03:31 AM

I would wager that more people have problems UNscrewing their MHS rather than it being too loose.

Darth Midian

08-14-2010, 06:02 AM

Council, they're surprisingly light. I recieved my first MHS parts a month ago & was shocked on how light they are. I know they're aluminun, I just wasn't expecting them to be that light. I don't think you'll have an issue with weight.

Council Six

08-14-2010, 05:17 PM

Oh awesome! The lighter they are the better. And I don't suppose anyone has ever stress tested them? I mean, is it possible for them to scratch and/or bend at all?

cannibal869

08-14-2010, 05:33 PM

Oh awesome! The lighter they are the better. And I don't suppose anyone has ever stress tested them? I mean, is it possible for them to scratch and/or bend at all?

is it possible? Of course.. media blasted surfaces tend to show scratches more (not that they scratch more easily, it's just that the contrast between the media blasting and the scratch is more apparent to the eye).

If you abuse the MHS parts enough, they'll bend, but it is probably going to take a significant amount of abuse for that to happen. The parts really are quite well made and durable.

-C

Council Six

08-14-2010, 11:09 PM

cannibal869

08-15-2010, 04:47 PM

AWESOME. I'm a very abusive user, so I fully anticipate my sabers being dropped, thrown, hit, scratched, and possibly even bent! Thanks for the feedback, Cannibal, I was going to go overboard with the coating, but after your comment I think I'll be more conservative with it and put my money elsewhere. Thanks!

Counsil - I just looked at your original saber plan - the only snafu I potentially see is the weight distribution. By that I mean the following - the MHS parts are fairly light, but it's usually the electronics and particularly the battery pack that contributes the majority of the weight. So if you're planning on twirling a saber that big, you'll just have to think about ways to secure stuff in place to prevent it from sliding around the inside. Easiest way I would venture is to make use of the MHS speaker holders since they wedge in between the sections quite nicely. Also, I would probably try to balance the majority of the weight near the "center" of the saber (center being wherever you'll be holding it most of the time). Similarly, if you plan on putting a blade down the center of part of the handle, you'll just have to do some test fitting cause I think the blade diameter is 1 inch whereas the internal diameter of the MHS parts is a bit bigger - you may get some unexpected rattling unless you secure it in place somehow.

Council Six

08-15-2010, 11:07 PM

I appreciate your concern, Cannibal! Luckily I've already taken all of that into consideration. I planned on using the speaker holders. I figured I would put the majority of the electronics in end section of the hilt near the button and bladeholder, that way when the blade is attached the weight will be more or less balanced. That is also where my left hand(front hand) will be when dueling. I would also either superglue or wrap electrical tape around the interior blade to secure it in place to the pommel end of the hilt.

Danocrunch

08-23-2010, 01:21 PM

a queston. ... im building a saber clase to that of lukes and anakins.

I need a way so when i activate the saber the anakin grip slides from the middle of the saber to the bottom.

and when i turn it off the grip slides the opisite way.

also i want to make it so i can ajust the length of my blade by turning a nob. I have a 40in blade.

Any ideas????

xl97

08-23-2010, 01:25 PM

I need a way so when i activate the saber the anakin grip slides from the middle of the saber to the bottom.

and when i turn it off the grip slides the opisite way.

automated? or you wat to 'slide' it manually with yoru hands?

if the former.. you'd need some 'extras'..

such as an Arduino or RFX platform and some small motors/servos to accomplish this (along with a way to mount it to the sleeve/ilt sections and a 'track' for it to slide along.

also i want to make it so i can ajust the length of my blade by turning a nob. I have a 40in blade.

Any ideas????

a really long hilt? with a DEEP blade stop? hahaha..

seriously though.. how far do you want to be able to adjust the blade length to? to far out.. and it will not stay properly seated/secure.. to far down and its heavy..(and too much real estate wasted to hide alot of blade in the hilt ya know?)

Jedi-Loreen

08-23-2010, 01:30 PM

Whatever you're smoking, it must be gooooooood. :p

Danocrunch

08-23-2010, 01:52 PM

lol. yea.. im not high i just have a creative mind

Danocrunch

08-23-2010, 01:54 PM

I want the blade to ajust from 40 in to a 30 in maybe.

and i want the grip to spring out from the center of the hilt to the bottom by a siple push of a button

also what parts do i need to do this???

You should use the 'Edit' button instead of continually posting new replies to your own posts. A lot of people will flame you for that.

Jedi-Loreen

08-23-2010, 03:01 PM

Starting with me.

Stop double and triple posting, it's annoying and not allowed.

There are no parts in the Store to make a saber do what you want it to like you want.

You're going to have to come up with your own ideas on how to make it work.

There are probably reasons nobody has done that before. It's very impractical, and it would take and extremely long hilt. You can't make polycarbonate blades that telescope.

FenderBender

08-23-2010, 09:59 PM

Wow. Well the moon is full soon...

Onli-Won Kanomi

08-23-2010, 10:07 PM

Wow. Well the moon is full soon...

Haha...Well I know its making ME a bit 'loony'...ok, ok, loony-ER than usual ;-)

Danocrunch

08-24-2010, 09:10 AM

or is it?

what is u had one polycarbanant blade and had another slitly thiner one inside it. and used some sort of pully sistem or a spring to be able to double the blade length to suprize ur oponent.

Lord Maul

08-24-2010, 10:20 AM

Stop double posting. You just did it again, and it makes more work for me to clean up the thread.

xl97

08-24-2010, 10:26 AM

forget your blade idea...

you've been old it wont work..easily (and its very impractical/silly to boot... you want that?.. go buy one of the telescoping toy sabers)....or looking into a motor or spring type system.. but to hide 10" of blade is alot of empty hilt to have.... not to mention 40" blade is a bit big by itself =)

that being said.. the hilt part could be doable.. but NOT with anything pre-made or bought to magically make this effect/hilt for you.

you'll have to devise/engineer a system that works as you want.. or hire someone to do it for you..

Council Six

08-25-2010, 12:56 PM

And I thought my ideas were far-out! :P

Danocrunch

08-28-2010, 10:25 AM

im gunna convert my anakin saber soon. and im not sure what will get me the best Blue. Rebal stars,Luxeon3,Soul P4 or the Rebal Tri star. what do u think??

and also im confused on how the thermal tape goes on. can some one put a pic or diagram showing the emiter,heatsink,thermal tape,Led,lense and holder. and also the heatsink mount that is made out of coper. thanks

Daniel

Lord Maul

08-28-2010, 11:12 AM

Stop double posting. Loreen and myself have talked to you before about this.

Go for a rebel or a P4. It doesn't really matter that much, they're largely the same.

With the conversion kit, you don't need to use the rebel heatsink spacer.

The thermal tape is easy to use. Peel the backing off and stick it on the heatsink. Then stick the LED onto it. The set the optics on top. You'll see how easy it is when you have the parts in hand.

Danocrunch

08-30-2010, 03:22 PM

another question.. Is it safe to use a Seol P4 green Led to convert a 2007 Hasbro Anakin skywalker?

Also what parts would i need to build a luke skywalker ROTJ lightsaber. I want to make it with a thin choke. And I would like to know the cheapest way to go about it!

Thanks

Daniel

Lord Maul

08-30-2010, 03:30 PM

Double posting is when you post twice in a row. If you have something to add to your post, hit the 'edit' button and put it in.

RoqueSaber

09-06-2010, 03:31 PM

Question here: is it possible to attach very thin pieces of shroud onto the main hilt, and if so, how? It's for this saber:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lU8WQLzJwgI/TIVnBHQIJ5I/AAAAAAAAADI/dHpEqHvE304/Saber%20Shroud2%20v3%20%28jpg%29.jpg

I'm just wondering if I should just use something like O-rings for the tiny spaces instead of metal.

Thanks!

Jay-gon Jinn

09-06-2010, 04:43 PM

It is possible, but can be somewhat challenging for your patience....when installing small rings of sinktube to an MHS hilt, I use epoxy resin to hold them in place. It can be messy if you use too much epoxy, so use it carefully. Cleaning off the excess can be a pain in the rear. ;)

RoqueSaber

09-09-2010, 10:03 AM

Do you think it would be worth the effort, or would it be more practical to just use something like an O-ring?

TimeRender

09-09-2010, 05:56 PM

Another challenge you will have is cutting a ring that thin to begin with. I would use an O ring.

zebra

01-21-2011, 11:59 PM

guys im new to this but do i need a main body for my saber? can i make it on extensions? with the pommel, blade holder and all that of course

Jedi-Loreen

01-22-2011, 01:23 AM

Yes, you can make a saber out of extensions. But you need to decide what's going inside, so you can make sure it will be long enough for your electronics.

Please to some reading around this forum.
A LOT of reading.

Start with all the stickied threads in all the different sections.

Skottsaber

01-22-2011, 04:34 AM

While you can make a brilliant saber out of extensions, for a first timer it may be easier to use a main body, but if you're comfortable enough to use other parts, then by all means go wild!
Be sure to post which parts you are using so we can let you be sure everything will fit.

xl97

01-22-2011, 05:35 AM

you can use extensions..

the main bodies are usually a bit longer..

have some grooves in them.. and possibly a switch hole pre-drilled.

all the MHS parts screw together..

I suggest using the MHS Builder application to understand how the parts work (using threads hints ON will show where male & female threads are located)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/mhsbuilder/

the new builder is almost completed..

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/mhsbuilder/mhsbuilder.php

and shows better renders of the parts.. as well as an internal view (so you can plan your internals too@!)

good luck!

Shockenawe

10-03-2015, 04:19 PM

Hey Im very new to tcss, and am in the process of building my first saber! Is is possible to order an extension with a switch hole drilled in it?

darth_chasm

10-03-2015, 04:27 PM

Hey Im very new to tcss, and am in the process of building my first saber! Is is possible to order an extension with a switch hole drilled in it?

Welcome aboard. I would suggest some searches here in the forums, using the mhs builder, and visiting the site. The answer you're looking for is all over the place.

Grimlock84

10-03-2015, 04:47 PM

I also suggest watching this video so you know which switch hole to order.
http://youtu.be/D7zzMuZ_kxc

xl97

10-03-2015, 07:05 PM

Hey Im very new to tcss, and am in the process of building my first saber! Is is possible to order an extension with a switch hole drilled in it?

Its a service that can be added/ordered:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switch-Holes-C106.aspx

(also can be done, as in added/ordered using the MHS builder)

*note: requires flash.

MHS Builder:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/mhsbuilder/mhsbuilder.php

Jester_

02-08-2016, 03:35 PM

Hi, I just registered on the forum for discussing a matter of building.
I was looking for a custom made piece and used the MHS builder to have an idea and created my set of swords. The project looks great but I have some technical questions about the electronic part.

- Is it possible to have the buttons "inside" the hilt so I don't feel them when handling the sword? If possible, how should I indicate that on the MHS builder?
- what are the activation box / jack / covertec knob?
- Is the petit crouton the soundcard or sound/light card?
- How to change colour of the blades? Do hilts have a colour card with a single colour or a multicoloured LED?
- Are all parts modular so I can eventually use 2 different blades on the same hilt?

Thank you!

ndknoy

02-09-2016, 02:56 AM

Hi friend. Best thing you can do is read through the forum. That being said, some quick answers to get you in the right direction.

- Is it possible to have the buttons "inside" the hilt so I don't feel them when handling the sword? If possible, how should I indicate that on the MHS builder?

I've read a few posts about magnetic and force switches here, but I don't know how well they work if executed. They may be a pain to use in a dueling saber. You have some options with switches available here: countersunk switch hole, switch in the pommel, or use the tall tactile switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx) (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8141-Best-way-to-mount-the-tactile-switches).

- what are the activation box / jack / covertec knob?

Activation boxes hold switches, LEDs, and ports. They are held to the saber with screws. Look them up in the store for examples. Coveryec knob holds your saber to a clip on you belt. Jack...are you talking about the recharge jack?

- Is the petit crouton the soundcard or sound/light card?
- How to change colour of the blades? Do hilts have a colour card with a single colour or a multicoloured LED

Yes...read the description and manual in the store. If you want to use the card, you'll have to do it anyway...many, many times.

- Are all parts modular so I can eventually use 2 different blades on the same hilt?

Yes and no. Check your diameters and version numbers before ordering.

Hope this helps.

Kain

05-27-2017, 02:49 PM

I'm wondering about gemstones. What would I need to do to affix a gem to my saber hilt? In my dream saber it would be nice to have a red pommel stone as a tribute to the Redwall novels.

MrThamer

07-09-2017, 02:12 PM

Hi people just a question ive got my designs for a hilt got someone that will turn it into a CAD design and a fabricator but do i neef to have any pieces on the inside of my hilt to place the heatsink and led on or will a set screw do that

Konig

01-12-2018, 02:17 PM

Hey people, I'm new to all this and I'm building my first saber. Just wondering if I should assemble all the electronics outside the hilt first to see how they are or should I just but it all together as I go. Your suggestion will be helpful. Thanks guys

MrThamer

01-12-2018, 05:11 PM

Hi Konig i wired up first just to see how it worked first but it would be a must do it was just my preference

MrThamer

01-12-2018, 05:14 PM

16241
This is my first saber

MrThamer

01-12-2018, 05:15 PM

16244

MrThamer

01-12-2018, 05:16 PM

16243!

Chosen one

02-10-2018, 09:55 PM

Hi everyone

I’m still fairly new to building sabers but have had the interest in collecting them for prob the last 4 or so years, I was just seeking some advise on a count dooku hilt I really want to build one but unsure as to where the best place to purchase one would be iv seen the saber forge one and as it is quite nice I think I’d rather a slimmer version lol like the Korbanth or ultimate works so if anyone knows of any upcoming runs of a dooku hilt any info would be much appreciated

thank you

MrThamer

02-14-2018, 12:52 PM

Hi if i was going to suggest anyone i would say KR Sabers or JQ Sabers there work is impeccable

MrThamer

02-14-2018, 12:54 PM

Hope you think they are ok

VikingMike

07-11-2018, 10:29 PM

Very new to sabers. I want to build my first saber with v2 parts, but I'm confused by one aspect. Where are the v2 main bodies? Is it just the extensions? Thank you in advance.

cvsickle

07-12-2018, 09:47 AM

Very new to sabers. I want to build my first saber with v2 parts, but I'm confused by one aspect. Where are the v2 main bodies? Is it just the extensions? Thank you in advance.

Yes, you will typically just use one of the longer V2 extensions as your main body.

Seth Skywalker

07-12-2018, 10:04 AM

Yes, you will typically just use one of the longer V2 extensions as your main body.
Or multiple short ones.

Inkedicon

02-05-2020, 09:49 AM

Sorry, total n00b here testing the hobbies waters. Current budget does allow for a Maglite found saber. But I do have some questions:

1.Will the TCSS conversion work on any C/D flashlight or just Maglite?
2.Can I use the Pommel adapter be used as a blade holder adapter?
3.Any Idea where I can get my hands on a Colored (green) LED? The ones mentioned in the forums I've researched but seem to no longer exist.

Thanks in advance.