Lightsaber Help on some questions, LONG PARTS LIST

[FireBlaze97]

Ok so this is what i have for my up and coming lightsaber build, i have found many diagrams for the PC and wiring it up but some things still leave me guessing, like the led it is a amber led by rebel star, what resistor should i use. well here is my parts list with the extras added.



Screw on LED blade holder style 13

MHS "new style" Heat Sink

Pommel style 3

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (B132)

Pommel Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (PO31)

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Luxeon Rebel Star (Amber)

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch

82ohm 1/8 watt (av switch ) -Correction

Black momentary switch

Activation box style 2

2.1mm Power Jack

Kill plug style 4

Wires and heat shrink

Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
Light Meat

7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack

3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger

2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger

MHS speaker mount V2

Premium Speaker

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

location: on blade holder 9 place the hole somewhere between the cut outs or if you think below then do that, use your best judgment.

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

location: On Blade holder style 13 place the hole in the middle, use your best judgment on this.

MPS Clip

MPS insert style 12

JST connectors

Super Lube Synthetic Grease

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
8-32 x 3/8" Brass button head screw
8-32 x 1/2" button head screw
8-32 x 3/8" Stainless Steel thumb screw
(im ordering a few different screws to find what one i like)

D-ring belt mount

1" Hilt safety plug (Trans White)

Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack (Clear)

4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector

Double male with slots

Extension Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (DME2)

MPS Pommel style 8
Screw on LED blade holder style 9

(im getting an extra pommel and BH so that i can switch around the parts when i feel for it)

Pommel Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (PM81)

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (BH91)

4" Double female threaded connector

Box 2,3,5,6 Mounting holes service

location: in the middle of the 4 inch double female threaded connector. this item will be media blasted as well

Media blasting

Media blasting: [1. Gray areas only (This item will also be getting a powder coating style 1) Screw on LED blade holder style 13 - Im guessing you'd media blast then powder coat .] [2. Activation box style (2)] [3. 4" Double female threaded connector] [4. 4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector] [5. mps insert style 12]

(No resistor needed for Amber led)- fix

Well this is a HUGE parts list if anyone is nice enough to go through this PLEASE give me some advice this will be my first ever sound saber, iv been planning this for some time to make my own saber and this is it.


Question: will the 4.7ohm 10w resistor work for the rebel star amber led?
Question: will the 220ohm 1/4w resistor work for the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch?
Question: will I be able to media blast and powder coat the Screw on LED blade holder style 13? I have in my cart the style 1 powder coating and the media blasting.
Question: does this saber look good?
Question: will the Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack (Clear) keep the battery resistors and anything else inside from rattling, i ask because this saber will be put through some dueling in the future.

-Im not getting a blade because I already have one (or will have one from vaders vault)
- added the rest of the chassis to my cart put a speaker part inside so i can try to mount the speaker.

Thanks,
FireBlaze97

[clahey83]

- you will not need a resistor for your main LED, the petit crouton will regulate the voltage and current going to it.
- the resistor for the AV LED should be 82ohm 1/8 watt if you plan on running it from one of the accent LED outputs on the petit crouton (those pads are 3.3V) if you want to run it from your batteries (it will light up as soon as you pull the kill plug) then it will need to be 270ohm 1/8 watt
- i have never tried media blasting and powder coating. thats a question one of the other people on here might be able to answer. worst case scenario send Tim (the store owner) an email and ask him before ordering.
- the parts look good but we dont know what order you are putting them together in. all that matters is that YOU like it.
- the acrylic disks should do a good job but you will need the rest of the parts to use them. 4/40 all thread, 4/40 hex nuts, and if you want 3/16 OD spacers. if you dont get these you wont be able to use your acrylic disks.

[TrypWyr]

- the resistor for the AV LED should be 82ohm 1/8 watt if you plan on running it from one of the accent LED outputs on the petit crouton (those pads are 3.3V) if you want to run it from your batteries (it will light up as soon as you pull the kill plug) then it will need to be 270ohm 1/8 watt

Keep in mind, the store doesn't appear to sell 82 and 270 ohm resistors in 1/8 watt, but rather 1/4 watt. Remember, you can always use a larger wattage resistor, it will just be physically bigger. (Substantially bigger, in some cases...)

I plugged these parts into the MHS Builder, pretty nice. Are you planning on having the Fluted section at the bottom of the hilt? This can make the top half look a little skinny, IMO. My personal build in progress uses similar parts and has the fluted section in the middle (well, I'm actually using the grooved, not fluted, but very similar part), with the switch section at the bottom of the hilt near the pommel (reverse hold). Have you checked out the trim rings? Amazing little things and really provide a break to the straight outer diameter edges on a hilt.

Other quick opinions:
BH9: great blade holder, lends itself wonderfully to blade plugs. I have a Sanjuro crystal emitter plug in mine and it looks awesome. Almost a crystal chamber on its own!
Pommel style 3: nothing better than a spike for a pommel to capture that Sithy feeling.

Anyway, good luck with the build, looks like fun!

[FireBlaze97]

- you will not need a resistor for your main LED, the petit crouton will regulate the voltage and current going to it.
- the resistor for the AV LED should be 82ohm 1/8 watt if you plan on running it from one of the accent LED outputs on the petit crouton (those pads are 3.3V) if you want to run it from your batteries (it will light up as soon as you pull the kill plug) then it will need to be 270ohm 1/8 watt
- i have never tried media blasting and powder coating. thats a question one of the other people on here might be able to answer. worst case scenario send Tim (the store owner) an email and ask him before ordering.
- the parts look good but we dont know what order you are putting them together in. all that matters is that YOU like it.
- the acrylic disks should do a good job but you will need the rest of the parts to use them. 4/40 all thread, 4/40 hex nuts, and if you want 3/16 OD spacers. if you dont get these you wont be able to use your acrylic disks.

I will be using the led hooked up to the battery so i have a crystal chamber just gotta find an orange led. So when i get the chassis can i just slide it in and out? I really have no intention for it to be viewed, its just for the internals so they don't wiggle around.

also/

7687

So this is my saber i was just a bit tired and forgot to upload it. Im putting the fluted section on the bottom so i cn unscrew the bottom half and get to the card, each section will be tight and i will have retention screws keeping the parts together so they don't unscrew under dueling.

Question: So if i get a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor to replace the 82ohm 1/8 watt resistor i should be fine or do i need to find a different resistor.
Question: Now i am completely confused i want the av switch to glow when i ignite the saber, i don't want it to glow when i putt the kill key, i also want to fun a orange and or amber led inside the saber in the vented area so that i can have a crystal chamber look. I have a few wiring diagrams but does anyone have one to kinda explain this if found about 3 others and a close resembelance video of madcow working on one of his sabers taking down and assembling.

Looking for: A wiring diagram that shows the av switch hookup so that it only glows when the saber is on, and a wiring diagram showing the extra led for the inside of the saber/and resistor needed and labeled.

Again the internal led i want to light when the saber's kill ket is activated. (unlike the av switch) i also want it to blink on standby.
Question: Any idea on how to make it do this?
Question: on top of the led inside of the saber i want to know beforehand if the sabers battery is running low how do i set up an led so that it only blinks when the sabers battery is low.

Im not a soldering expert but i will have a steady hand do it for me. I tried this on my first build, First build was so bad. i used tape instead of heat shrink and well it fried almost xP I'm a bit more experienced but i like to be sure I'm doing things right i don't want to fry the PC.
Thanks for your help,
FireBlaze97

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Admittedly I haven't carefully read through your posts (which I'll do tomorrow when I'm more awake), but here are some observations and a couple of questions...
1. Once a kill key in inserted, the idea is that NOTHING in the hilt gets power.
2. With the battery solution you are planning on using, you will likely see it in the "vented area", along with your LEDs, are you cool with that?
3. Where are you planning on putting this "low battery" LED?

[FireBlaze97]

1. I was meaning with the kill key out.
2. What i plan on doing is extending the cords and placing the battery towards the back(hidden somewhat from the vented area. With that in mind, i plan on making the fluted area unscrew so that i can access the sd card. the pc and battery will be placed with the chassis but wont be that visible
3. I want to place this led on the unit as the first thing, i want to make sure that it looks good enough.

With the cords I'm going to try my best to hide them in between the unvented areas. Even if that doesn't work i doubt i will see anything, I'm cutting out a small square of screen and placing it inside so with that the light shining through and the sound coming out from the pommel and the vented area it will sound and look good.

This saber is possibly a december build. Could be sooner.

[FireBlaze97]

Ok so i made a schematic for the PC, is everything correct, if not please help me correct this.

NOTE: for the av led i want it on only when the saber is ignited, for the 2nd 5v 3mm amber led i only want lit after the kill key is in. I have forever scratched the low battery indicator for i have no idea on what or where to put it.

7693

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok so i made a schematic for the PC, is everything correct, if not please help me correct this.

NOTE: for the av led i want it on only when the saber is ignited, for the 2nd 5v 3mm amber led i only want lit after the kill key is in. I have forever scratched the low battery indicator for i have no idea on what or where to put it.

7693

Why don't you use the AV LED as the indicator?

There are problems with your wiring. The switch pads do NOT power the AV LED. The AV will need 4 wires going to it, not 2. 2 for the switch and 2 for the LED circuit. Depending on what you ultimately decide to do with the AV LED, will depend on which way it would need to be wired.

[TrypWyr]

Also, it looks like you have both negative leads going to the same post on your recharge port. You should have the battery negative going to the bottom post in your diagram.

Check out this pic by Slothfurnace... one of the best diagrams ever. :)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14572-JediMasterTim-s-Wiring-Diagram&p=213165#post213165

[FireBlaze97]

Also, it looks like you have both negative leads going to the same post on your recharge port. You should have the battery negative going to the bottom post in your diagram.

Check out this pic by Slothfurnace... one of the best diagrams ever. :)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14572-JediMasterTim-s-Wiring-Diagram&p=213165#post213165

Yes I have that diagram I will correct this diagram I made today and repost the corrections, I'm learning about this stuff still but I think iv got it down now.

[FireBlaze97]

ok i revised it

Question: Will the av led now work? Does it need a second resistor on the blue positive lead?
Question: Will the second led (5w led) only work when the saber is activated? This is what i want it to do.

So how does it look?

7696

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

ok i revised it

Question: Will the av led now work? Does it need a second resistor on the blue positive lead?
Question: Will the second led (5w led) only work when the saber is activated? This is what i want it to do.

So how does it look?

7696

For the AV switch, the resistor goes on the pink, not the brown line.
For the LED, the BLACK line goes to GND, NOT #2
If you want the LED to work when you pull the kill key, that positive should go to the 3.3V pad, and the AV positive should go to pad #1. You will also have to adjust the leds.txt file to make sure that that LED stays on all the time.

[FireBlaze97]

For the AV switch, the resistor goes on the pink, not the brown line.
For the LED, the BLACK line goes to GND, NOT #2
If you want the LED to work when you pull the kill key, that positive should go to the 3.3V pad, and the AV positive should go to pad #1. You will also have to adjust the leds.txt file to make sure that that LED stays on all the time.

Ok something im not getting, I want the av led to turn on when the saber kill key is pulled and i want the 2nd led to power only when the saber is ignited. I dont want that (5w) led to do anything else but ignite when i push the (AV) button.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ah, The way you wrote it in your earlier posts, it sounded like you wanted it the other way.

"Again the internal led i want to light when the saber's kill ket is activated. (unlike the av switch)"

Ok, you can ignore the last line then.

[FireBlaze97]

Yea i didnt relize i said that but yea so the wiring diagram is correct with those few corrections, i still need to find a resistor for the amber led, this is the led im getting http://www.weisd.com/test/WEISD_TBL_view.php?editid1=LINB4302F3-5V
and this is the edited diagram
7697

Now with FOC you need a different type of led right (i think this is why im not doing for)

How would i hookup a led for a low batt indicator?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yea i didnt relize i said that but yea so the wiring diagram is correct with those few corrections, i still need to find a resistor for the amber led, this is the led im getting http://www.weisd.com/test/WEISD_TBL_view.php?editid1=LINB4302F3-5V
and this is the edited diagram
7697

Now with FOC you need a different type of led right (i think this is why im not doing for)

How would i hookup a led for a low batt indicator?

I double checked and that's not something that can be done with a PC 2.0. Sorry.

Yes, you would need a multi-die LED (probably with different colors) to do FoC.

The wiring diagram looks good now. You just have to reverse the Aux and Main activation wires (yellow and orange).

Also, that LED won't work with LED accent pads, since the pads only put out 3.3V and that takes 5V ;)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yea i didnt relize i said that but yea so the wiring diagram is correct with those few corrections, i still need to find a resistor for the amber led, this is the led im getting http://www.weisd.com/test/WEISD_TBL_view.php?editid1=LINB4302F3-5V
and this is the edited diagram
7697

Now with FOC you need a different type of led right (i think this is why im not doing for)

How would i hookup a led for a low batt indicator?your blaster/lock up switch positive is on the wrong pad...if you wire it up like that, you'll press that button to activate the saber. The main switch is the first pad from the left in that picture, the aux + is the middle pad, then the shared ground is on the right.

and FJK is correct, the PC 2.0 has no provisions for a low battery indicator, nor a PLI setting. Those features are usually found on higher-end sound boards like the Crystal Focus. Are you planning on using one 3.7v 18500 to power this set up? If so, you may be disappointed in the volume level...the PC 2.0 is designed to work with a 7.4v battery solution.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

He's going to use a 7.4V pack.

[FireBlaze97]

He's going to use a 7.4V pack.

Yup i will correct the diagram, now i cant find a 3.3v amber led, any suggestions to where i can look?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yup i will correct the diagram, now i cant find a 3.3v amber led, any suggestions to where i can look?

You mean this?

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/C503B-AAN-CA0C0252-015/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvjj1qeIvr2hlSnZSx65h4C

Voltage typically varies by the color of the LED. Reds and ambers are lower (around 2.1 - 2.3) where Blues and Greens are in the 3.2 - 3.4 range. That should do nicely for you, or you could visit your local Radio Shack If you live in the United States.

[FireBlaze97]

You mean this?

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/C503B-AAN-CA0C0252-015/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvjj1qeIvr2hlSnZSx65h4C

Voltage typically varies by the color of the LED. Reds and ambers are lower (around 2.1 - 2.3) where Blues and Greens are in the 3.2 - 3.4 range. That should do nicely for you, or you could visit your local Radio Shack If you live in the United States.

Lol yes i just found that too thats what i will get Thanks! What resistor will work 82 or 270? 1/4 from tcss

And Fixed!

[TrypWyr]

Lol yes i just found that too thats what i will get Thanks! What resistor will work 82 or 270? 1/4 from tcss

From what I can see 66.6... ohm, but the store only carries 82, so yeah.

BTW, formula: (Source voltage - Forward voltage) / Current = Resistor. So (3.3 (from the accent pad) - 2.1) / 0.018 (18mA, the max of the accent pads) = 66.6... ohms.

And the lazy way ;) = http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'll spare you redoing the math (this once). You need a 82 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.

[FireBlaze97]

Thanks Guys for all of your help!

This is it the final rendering of the diagram.


7703

[FireBlaze97]

To my understanding the led will flicker when ideling and clashing and in lockup?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

To my understanding the led will flicker when ideling and clashing and in lockup?

As long as you configure it that way. ;)

[FireBlaze97]

As long as you configure it that way. ;)
:o now how do i do that xP its the chip that does it using the txt files or is it a physical wiring concept?

Edit: Is this with a clash sensor, iv got no clue what to do with this in my diagram. I have noticed that madcow has been able to hookup a PLI unit to his sabers, how is this possible? Even though the PLI isnt in stock i would one day like to upgrade this saber with rice, foc, pli and whatever sound founts i want at the moment from saber fonts . xD you can totally tell I'm a noob at this.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yeah, I got the noob part figured out already. ;) Which Madcow saber are you talking about?

[FireBlaze97]

Yeah, I got the noob part figured out already. ;) Which Madcow saber are you talking about?

XD the Madcow saber I am talking about is the ascend this is the vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMC5lyVstSU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

XD the Madcow saber I am talking about is the ascend this is the vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMC5lyVstSU&feature=youtube_gdata_player


First things first. Download the PC 2.0 manual, and read it over - several times. It basically explains all the configuration settings, and how to wire it up, etc. etc. As for the PLI, you may want to save that for down the road. One of the biggest mistakes noobs tend to make is to try to run before they can even walk.

[FireBlaze97]

First things first. Download the PC 2.0 manual, and read it over - several times. It basically explains all the configuration settings, and how to wire it up, etc. etc. As for the PLI, you may want to save that for down the road. One of the biggest mistakes noobs tend to make is to try to run before they can even walk.

I have had the pc manual, i over looked this subject, Im guessing its pre set to do this on its own but is needed to be activated with rice? I don't have that on my pc diagram i could place it on but will need to find a place to put it on the saber itself, or i could just change the box.

Edit: Found out the unit is wired to the back of the pc unit it is similar to the recharge port 3 prongs 7708

I found this too im guessing its the same on PC2 as it was for PC 1.6
http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/PetitCrouton_R.I.C.E.pdf

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You don't need RICE to have those features. RICE just makes it easier to change the configuration of the PC, instead of constantly opening the saber and removing the SD card, making changes, putting it back and closing the saber back up.

[FireBlaze97]

You don't need RICE to have those features. RICE just makes it easier to change the configuration of the PC, instead of constantly opening the saber and removing the SD card, making changes, putting it back and closing the saber back up.
Yea but I have no problem adding it to my saber, i don't really want to open it over and over again. The chassis isn't for viewing to be honest. It will be clean and strong wiring however.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yea but I have no problem adding it to my saber, i don't really want to open it over and over again. The chassis isn't for viewing to be honest. It will be clean and strong wiring however.

You'll find that the more you add, the more wiring there is, and your hilt wasn't all that big to start with. Plan well. ;) Just saying. :)

[FireBlaze97]

You'll find that the more you add, the more wiring there is, and your hilt wasn't all that big to start with. Plan well. ;) Just saying. :)
Yup if got a rendering of how this will all fit, it will be snug. I'm hoping with the chassis it will work if not I have extra parts to work with and make everything fit.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Sonds like it's time to get busy building. ;) Good Luck.

[FireBlaze97]

Sonds like it's time to get busy building. ;) Good Luck.

Yup iv got the items in my cart and will begin with the ordering process soon, and thanks i will need it for my first try at this. Now all it needs is a name hmmmm

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yup iv got the items in my cart and will begin with the ordering process soon, and thanks i will need it for my first try at this. Now all it needs is a name hmmmm

Deliver the baby first, then you can name it. ;)

[FireBlaze97]

Deliver the baby first, then you can name it. ;)

OK so i changed the bottom half of the saber because of fitting issues. I will have fun cramming this into a 12 inch long tube about 8 or 9 of that is useful but it looks like everything will fit, i scaled this photoshop rendering as close as i could make it. The cut out ports i will have covered so that you cant view whats inside, its only there for the internal led (i didnt place it in the rendering but it is in there)

What is the best soldering iron? Price range about $50 for one.

7713

[Silver Serpent]

It's hard to go wrong with a Weller soldering iron. Just be sure you have one with a fine tip for those delicate spots.

[Weaver]

I see the subject of internals has been covered. I just wanted to pop in and say that battery packs eat up a lot more room than I was prepared for, on my first build. I used a dual-cell 18650 stick and found that the main body section was just barely long enough to contain it. I had to mount my sound card on top of the battery pack.

If you use a section with a lower diameter than the main bodies, such as the ribbed or ribbed/grooved sections, you will see a reduced diameter. I'm not sure if this is the case for the double male connector or not. Just something to be aware of. It's also the case that wiring switches can become a bit of a pain if you're that low on space.

Good luck. I hope it works out for you.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

A good ESD safe temperature controlled soldering station would be good for your needs, and don't forget the extra fine tips for board soldering, especially if you plan on doing more than one saber. ;)

[FireBlaze97]

A good ESD safe temperature controlled soldering station would be good for your needs, and don't forget the extra fine tips for board soldering, especially if you plan on doing more than one saber. ;)

I plan to do a few more sabers but with the up and coming NB sound card from erv. Now just to double check the resistors I have labeled will work for me with no problems right? I don't want the LEDs to be dim, I would like them to be bright.

For the soldering iron the system I don't know what tip to get it comes with st3 bellows a pic. http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/th/content_26/WELLER_B000AS28UC-3-lg.jpg

iv graduated from those wall plug in units because of this.

[FireBlaze97]

I see the subject of internals has been covered. I just wanted to pop in and say that battery packs eat up a lot more room than I was prepared for, on my first build. I used a dual-cell 18650 stick and found that the main body section was just barely long enough to contain it. I had to mount my sound card on top of the battery pack.

If you use a section with a lower diameter than the main bodies, such as the ribbed or ribbed/grooved sections, you will see a reduced diameter. I'm not sure if this is the case for the double male connector or not. Just something to be aware of. It's also the case that wiring switches can become a bit of a pain if you're that low on space.

Good luck. I hope it works out for you.

Im using a chassis and a Metal disk to help with this cram foo, i don't know if the disk will do anything for me but its just in case i need it. The rendering i made of the internals i had scaled with exact measurements on photoshop of the battery. I hope that it isn't too frustrating to do, if it doesn't fit i will order another part to make it all fit. And thanks i will need the luck :)

How far does the heatsink stick out inside the bh? I'm guessing about an inch so what I did was I got the 5 inch dft connector and had box 13 placed one inch from the top (machined after the threads)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I plan to do a few more sabers but with the up and coming NB sound card from erv. Now just to double check the resistors I have labeled will work for me with no problems right? I don't want the LEDs to be dim, I would like them to be bright.

For the soldering iron the system I don't know what tip to get it comes with st3 bellows a pic. http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/th/content_26/WELLER_B000AS28UC-3-lg.jpg

iv graduated from those wall plug in units because of this.

ST6's and ST5's are the way to go. you should get a couple of each. The ST6 would be good for board work. just make sure you have something good to keep the tip clean. A good and clean tip is essential to a decent soldering job. ;)

[FireBlaze97]

Thanks for all this help! I have one probably stupid question, do big ticket items have an order limit? Like the pc 2.0 and the graflex ? It says I can only get up to 3, I just want to make sure I will get my pc card xP

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

As it clearly states next to the drop down number; The only limit is the number of in stock items Tim has on hand. He is very good about this. In fact if you were to switch the PC purchase to Dark Meat, you would see you could increase to 4. However the longer you wait, the more likely that number will decrease upon someone else ordering the same thing. Don't worry though, any items that go to zero, will be back in stock as soon as humanly possible.

[FireBlaze97]

One more stupid question, do I need a clash and swing sensor? If so where does it go..... I think it's not needed for pc2.0 but was needed for pc 1.6 correct me if I'm wrong

[Weaver]

I don't think so, FireBlaze. I believe the PC has always been an independently-operative soundboard.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

One more stupid question, do I need a clash and swing sensor? If so where does it go..... I think it's not needed for pc2.0 but was needed for pc 1.6 correct me if I'm wrong

No, you do not need one for the PC. everything you need is on the board. ;)

[FireBlaze97]

That's what I thought thanks everyone

[FireBlaze97]

Ok order placed i decided that i didn't want any paint or media blasting i have something special in mind for this saber. My first saber im so happy and excited :shock: i still need to order my soldering iron and ESD stuff. Will the bracelet work? anything else i need

What is Flux for?

60/40 Rosin Core solder
Weller WLC100 Soldering station
PCB kit from radio shack (practice soldering)
Tips ST1 and ST6
Helping hand soldering iron stand
I already have wiring in different colors

Would this be necessary, i do plan on making more sabers in the future.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102871#

+ any tips for a first time solderer

[shmoetech]

cleaning and prepping

[Silver Serpent]

Flux cleans oxidation off contacts and helps the solder flow better. If you have rosin core solder, it's included in the solder with no extra work.

Use fine gauge solder. The thick stuff takes longer to melt and leaves big solder joints. It doesn't take a lot of solder to make a good joint.

Be sure you tin your iron tip.
Be sure the iron is at the proper temperature.
Be sure you clean the tip frequently.

If you've just done a few soldering joints and the iron doesn't seem to be working as well, give it a minute to heat back up.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok order placed i decided that i didn't want any paint or media blasting i have something special in mind for this saber. My first saber im so happy and excited :shock: i still need to order my soldering iron and ESD stuff. Will the bracelet work? anything else i need

What is Flux for?

60/40 Rosin Core solder
Weller WLC100 Soldering station
PCB kit from radio shack (practice soldering)
Tips ST1 and ST6
Helping hand soldering iron stand
I already have wiring in different colors

+ any tips for a first time solderer

You will find that the Radio Shack solder part # 64-013 will be better for you. It's a 62/36/2 formula as is better to work with than the common solder you bought

As far as tips go, practice, practice, practice and then practice some more.

[Silver Serpent]

Well, both 60/40 and 62/36/2 work fine. Just avoid the lead-free stuff. It is not beginner friendly.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, both 60/40 and 62/36/2 work fine. Just avoid the lead-free stuff. It is not beginner friendly.

I have found that the 62/36/2 stuff works better and it is thinner. ;)

[FireBlaze97]

Well, both 60/40 and 62/36/2 work fine. Just avoid the lead-free stuff. It is not beginner friendly.

My first stunt project i learned that the hard way.

Thanks everyone.

[FireBlaze97]

Now I ordered everything and have a question about media blasting, can I send back parts I want to have this job ? I plan on doing this anyway through someone but if I can do it through tcss then I will.

Or if I have the cash in a few days could I add it to my order if it doesn't ship soon.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You may want to check that Tim is actually offering Media Blasting now (or in the near future). It would be easier to do it all at once (and will save shipping too).

[Weaver]

For the price that you will end up paying ($6US both ways, for each job done, and that's only if it'll fit in a Priority Mail box, plus the work fees), you might be better off getting a small hobby air compressor from Harbor Freight. They sell blasting media and (I believe) gravity-feed blasting guns that will do the job. It would be one more skill in your arsenal, so to speak. You could also check local machine shops and such to see if someone can do the job for you without shipping your parts out.

[FireBlaze97]

For the price that you will end up paying ($6US both ways, for each job done, and that's only if it'll fit in a Priority Mail box, plus the work fees), you might be better off getting a small hobby air compressor from Harbor Freight. They sell blasting media and (I believe) gravity-feed blasting guns that will do the job. It would be one more skill in your arsenal, so to speak. You could also check local machine shops and such to see if someone can do the job for you without shipping your parts out.


I have an air compressor all i would need is the gun and the sand. How hard is this to even do, could you even mess up media blasting?

[Weaver]

Without knowing too much about what you want as a result, I'd have to say "maybe". If you're totally removing a coating, soda blasting should work. If you're going for a "hammered" finish, you'll need to use something with a bit more beef. Easy does it, as the old saying goes. Like most intricate work, you should probably be safe with a little bit at a time, until you get what you want.

[FireBlaze97]

Without knowing too much about what you want as a result, I'd have to say "maybe". If you're totally removing a coating, soda blasting should work. If you're going for a "hammered" finish, you'll need to use something with a bit more beef. Easy does it, as the old saying goes. Like most intricate work, you should probably be safe with a little bit at a time, until you get what you want.
Soda blasting is safer for aluminum I think right? What about walnut I see people on tv using this too. (American restoration on history channel)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Soda blasting is safer for aluminum I think right? What about walnut I see people on tv using this too. (American restoration on history channel)

You may either want to let someone experienced do it, or be prepared for trial and error (and buy replacement part(s)) - rinse and repeat as necessary ;)

And to answer your earlier question, anything is easy to mess up, if you don't know what you are doing. ;)

[Weaver]

Wise words from FJK. I would hunt for some tutorials, video is preferable, and really research the method before committing to it. After all, DIY is only worth it if you'll end up spending less on the procedure than if it was professionally done (unless you really have your heart set on the experience).

[FireBlaze97]

Ok well I will c about this

Also what does latching nc and no stand for on the rice software? xD I have lots of random questions. I have he amber latching switch so what do I use to configure its settings.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok well I will c about this

Also what does latching nc and no stand for on the rice software? xD I have lots of random questions. I have he amber latching switch so what do I use to configure its settings.

No and nc stand for normally open and normally closed. It all depends on how you wore the switch. Normally when you push the button, you close the circuit. Think about having to hold the button down to make the saber work in your earlier experiment. ;)

Also make sure you read all the manuals carefully, and several times.

[Weaver]

It's also helpful to think of a circuit in terms of a draw bridge. If the brige is "open", then it is not possible to cross. If the bridge is "closed", then vehicles (or electrons) are free to cross at will. Being the eager little buggers that they are, they will be only happy to do so.

Most commonly used are "normally-open" (NO), "single pole, single throw" (SPST), "momentary" (closed when pressed) switches. These switches activate only one circuit, when pressed, and need to be held down in order to keep the circuit closed. Because the soundboards most commonly used can be programmed to accept momentary switches, most sabers do not need their switches to be held down; pressing the activation switch once will send the signal to ignite the saber.

I had these same questions when I began studying. I did eventually find the information, but not before lots of unanswered questions (some people are not exactly forthcoming with information in this hobby), and a lot of reading. Don't feel bad about having them; it's normal. Nobody is an expert right out of the box, and nobody should expect to be, regardless of what others will tell you.

If you have any questions that don't get answered, I will be happy to assist. The only catch is that, if I don't have the correct answer, I won't pretend that I do. I'm not in the habit of giving out false information. I'll direct you to someone (or some resource) that does. I hope that helps.

[FireBlaze97]

It's also helpful to think of a circuit in terms of a draw bridge. If the brige is "open", then it is not possible to cross. If the bridge is "closed", then vehicles (or electrons) are free to cross at will. Being the eager little buggers that they are, they will be only happy to do so.

Most commonly used are "normally-open" (NO), "single pole, single throw" (SPST), "momentary" (closed when pressed) switches. These switches activate only one circuit, when pressed, and need to be held down in order to keep the circuit closed. Because the soundboards most commonly used can be programmed to accept momentary switches, most sabers do not need their switches to be held down; pressing the activation switch once will send the signal to ignite the saber.

I had these same questions when I began studying. I did eventually find the information, but not before lots of unanswered questions (some people are not exactly forthcoming with information in this hobby), and a lot of reading. Don't feel bad about having them; it's normal. Nobody is an expert right out of the box, and nobody should expect to be, regardless of what others will tell you.

If you have any questions that don't get answered, I will be happy to assist. The only catch is that, if I don't have the correct answer, I won't pretend that I do. I'm not in the habit of giving out false information. I'll direct you to someone (or some resource) that does. I hope that helps.

Yes it does and thank you. I'm actuly planning on taking an electronics course at my local JC just to learn about all about this stuff. I will be hopefully taking this next semester.

And found out that reading the switches description is very helpfull. :mrgreen: God I'm such a noob

[FireBlaze97]

Ok so i made a new thread showing off Delta, go take a look
http://s302.beta.photobucket.com/user/FireBlaze97/library/Delta

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