New Saber Build Brightness Questions

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Ok everyone, sorry about what's coming, but I've been researching this for a while now and have a few questions left. Just as a precursor, I've read up on the LEDengin wiring guide, the saber basics, battery pack wirings, etc. So I've done a fair amount of research, but am a little confused and frustrated.

I already own an MR FX Obi-wan. I think the blade brightness is decent, but with my first build, I want something that at least surpasses that, if not flat out blows it out of the water. :p

I know I want a green LED. I just don't know what LED to go with. I intend to spar with this blade (that's kind of the point of building one and not just buying another MR, IMO), and have been told that a regular "show blade" as they're called here is just fine for that. Sounds like the heavier ones would leave some nasty bruises.

I'm also hoping to wire in a recharge port, sound board, and AV switch. I don't really think I need a RICE port, but I'm open to the option if it seems necessary. I don't really mind opening the saber up to take out the SD card and reconfiguring things that way.

What would be the best set-up for this goal? I've heard that Rebel Stars in Green are very bright (160-something lumens)...just not sure how that compares to an FX saber. I would also like to be able to get 40ish minutes of run time.

Anyways, sorry for the questions. I'm really trying to do my research so as not to drive you more experienced members to the dark side in a fit of rage :)

Just for fun, here's the render of what I'm thinking for my build.

7665

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, it sound do-able, but the key questions that determine the run time are WHICH LED, WHICH SOUND CARD and WHICH BATTERY SOLUTION. Also if you use a PC 2.0, you may need to fit an auxiliary switch into that setup. It's also a fairly short hilt from the looks of it, and that limits the battery solution you can put into it (which can affect the run time).

I don't remember the specs of the LED you mentioned, but, if you run a single die green LED @ 1A or maybe a tad more, you should be able to get about 35-40 minutes out of the battery packs you can fit into your hilt.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Good points. The hilt would be about 12in long. I could add a little more if necessary, but I'd hate to end up with some monster cane.

I don't think I'll know which sound card or battery solution until I know which LED.

I know TCSS has LEDengin, Rebel Star, and P4 all in green. What I guess I really need to know is how those will compare brightness wise to a stock MR Force FX saber. Again, I'm looking for something brighter. I'm sure the 10W LEDengin would guzzle power like crazy, and I'm not honestly sure if you can run it off of a 7.4 V pack anyways (the only example of seen of one wire up was Darth Alice's, and that was off a 14.7 V pack). The Rebel Star or P4 would probably be easier if bright enough.

What do you mean by an auxiliary switch? To trigger sound effects? I do like the PC cards, and I know they can handle a lot of power...what other options are there?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

From the drawing you posted, it didn't look that long. The battery solution in part will be determined by what you can actually fit into the hilt. If you decide to use a P4 or Rebel, they should be good enough for your needs. The rebel has received good reviews. You should be able to fit at least a 2x14500 pack or maybe even a 2x14670 battery pack into your hilt. If you can manage the latter, it should give you the around 40 minute run time you are looking for.

Other than the PC cards, you could get a Crystal Focus 6.0 (the PC's big brother - more expensive) when they are available at Plecter Labs, and there should be more of an economy board coming out soon-ish here. I don't remember the specs offhand, but I do remember there were limitations (no FoC, no aux switch, no R.I.C.E.). You could also used harvested MR and Hasbro boards.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Thanks! That helps a ton. I think I'll go with the green rebel for this build. I can always upgrade later as I get better.

So for battery life, it's the current you draw / current listed for the battery right? So a 1000ma battery could run a 1000ma LED for 1 hr?

What exactly does the voltage do? The Rebel Star (Green) is listed at running off 3.4 V, so I could also run it off a 18650 3.7V 2600mAh and get extra run time and power for the PC? Except the PC needs at least 5.5 volts...never mind!

I'll have to look at soundcards for a bit then. What does the aux switch and RICE port do?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You pretty much have the calculation correct regarding run times. But remember, if you "over drive" the rebel green @ say 1200mAh, you get a "brighter" blade, but your run time goes down.

As far as the PC specs, read through the manual, and decide if those are features you would like to have in your saber.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PC-2.0-Manual.pdf

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Great link! I think I'm convinced on the usefulness of a "mute" button. I didn't mention the RICE button, though. Is that just a way to access the SD card and settings without opening the saber?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, that is what the RICE port is for. ;) If you go to the store, and look up the RICE port, search for the manual and it explains what it is, and how it works.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Alright. Thanks again, I'll have to put you name in the credits for my lightsaber. ;) I think the saber will be the better for it, and it will let me wire up activation box 13, which is pretty sick. Now to save up money...buy the parts, then see how big of a battery I can cram in there! Hoping for this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-1400mAh-18500-Battery-Pack-P758.aspx Would allow good run time for the card and the over-driven LED.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm going to say that probably won't fit. I would need to see the design again, without all of the coloring.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Here it is:

7666

I wasn't sure if it would fit or not. The switches look like they stick back into the saber a good distance. I know you can get short AV switches, but that's probably not quite enough. I could always pack on some .75" extensions. :D Let me know what you think. I could probably get by on a thinner pack, too.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yeah, that's what I thought. OK, I am thinking more like this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-800mAh-14500-Battery-Pack-P698.aspx or http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-1050mAh-14650-Battery-Pack-P759.aspx. If you add the extension at the bottom, the second choice should work for you, but it also depends on which type of speaker you plan to use, and how think the speaker holder is, etc., etc. Welcome to the wonderful world of "Cram-Fu". Tested, you will be. :D

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Ok. I think I'll have to get all the main body parts in, then the switch box and all the switches to put in it, then I can check it out and see what it looks like. Tested or not, I'm definitely looking forward to it. :p Oh if only money would rise as quickly as hopes and dreams...but then stay then when they are dashed. If dreams must be dashed, cash should at least stick around.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If you hadn't noticed in your research, this hobby does tend to get expensive. No amount of research, question asking, etc. etc, replaces experimentation, figuring out things, etc. etc. Believe me, you are going to run out of internal space fairly quickly, once you try to cram everything in there. ;)

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Indeed, my price estimate continues to rise. Personally though, part of the fun is the challenge. I'll try to keep this thread updated with picks and progress. I hopefully will have everything by my February of next year. Christmas tends to be a good source of spending money. Hopefully within a few weeks I'll get some of the parts in, and will be able to work on painting them up to spec.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Don't feel bad. Many of us who have been in the hobby for quite a while have spent a LOT of money on parts, tools and other things that would try to make a saber "better". It really adds up.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Yes. Most hobbies tend to be expensive (I've done a good amount of target shooting and gun stuff, and this is much cheaper :D). Don't worry though, it usually just makes me smile to watch the price go up. :) It will still probably be cheaper than buying one assembled, but either way I get exactly what I want and the experience of putting it together. Tends to make the experience more meaningful, not to mention it's cool if you get learn a few things in the process.

I'm sure this wont be my last saber either. I'll need a decent collection to play with the kiddies.

[Johannes Huber]

One thought that might free up a little room is something I did with a build I'm working on that has very limited space (4.5" on one side, 4" on the other side, a very thin choke inbetween and a 4 piece 14500 pack to stuff in). Even the short AV switches go pretty deep into the body. The various activation boxes definitely help, but if you need more, what you can do is order one of the two TCSS bezels for an AV switch and then file down the curved side so it sits flush to the activation box and this will lift the button further out of the main hull and can be set to however high you want the switch positioned based on which bezel (tall or short) and on how much filing you do. There will still be enough of the switch to reach down and connect to the threaded part and this may help you stuff in more things and/or keep a nice runway for wires to go down unhindered. Another thing to look at, dependent on your soundcard choice is stacking the card on top of the battery. If you use the TCSS chassis pieces this also serves to keep the batteris from rolling around and holds the board in place. One thing that I found out the hard way (oops...) was to allow for the size of the heatsink when you figure out how much room you will have near the blade emitter (those new .75 extensions are a life saver...). Good luck on the build and have fun doing it:D.

Johannes

[Darth Ryo]

... but if you need more, what you can do is order one of the two TCSS bezels for an AV switch and then file down the curved side so it sits flush to the activation box and this will lift the button further out of the main hull and can be set to however high you want the switch positioned based on which bezel (tall or short) and on how much filing you do. There will still be enough of the switch to reach down and connect to the threaded part and this may help you stuff in more things and/or keep a nice runway for wires to go down unhindered.

That's a pretty good idea (interesting find for my future build as well), do you have any pic as example, in order to have a glimpse of what it looks like?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

That's a pretty good idea (interesting find for my future build as well), do you have any pic as example, in order to have a glimpse of what it looks like?

While it is an interesting idea, Kyaryo had wanted to do a long box with several items, and not just an A/V switch. ;)

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Thanks for the tip, Johannes. I'll have to look into it if the AV switch looks a little long...I'll have to see how it shapes up with the other switches in there too.