First Saber List

[lukeskyrunner]

Hilt style 3 with standard style switch hole
Screw on LED blade holder style 8
MHS choke style 3
MPS Pommel style 3 v1
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module - Luxeon Rebel Star (White)
8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
MWS Standard Style Latching Switches
Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
PCB for 3.7V Li-ion Battery
1/16" Heatshrink tubing
MPS insert style 13
MWS Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD



I will also get a jack for a recharging port.

As far as i understand the sound module also drives the LED? So i wont need resistors or a buckpuck to regulate the LED?
How did i do?

[lukeskyrunner]

Forgot to add A speaker and RICE port here too!

[Silver Serpent]

You are correct, the Petit Crouton drives the LED.

A couple of points: The Petit Crouton runs properly with 2 li-ion batteries, not one. There are several prebuilt 7.4 battery packs in the store, or you can build your own. In either case, if you have a protected battery pack, you don't need a second PCB, as it is already there.

You also need to add a MPS clip to hold the pommel insert in place. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx

Everything else looks pretty good.

[lukeskyrunner]

Ok i will do that!

If i wanted to go cheaper to begin with and use a buckpuck and no sound then, again i would need no resistors (except for if i wanted to use a LED in the switch)?
I am un-decided whether i should take on the task of the soundboard on my first saber, I'm no stranger to electronics and soldering but it has been some time.

What would you suggest?

[Silver Serpent]

If you're comfortable with a soldering iron, and you can afford the sound board, I'd definitely recommend getting it.

When you light up a soundless lightsaber, people think it's kinda neat. When you light up a saber with a Petit Crouton, they say "holy &%* it's a LIGHTSABER!"

[lukeskyrunner]

Duly noted. I will go with the soundboard then me thinks. I will post a circuit diagram soon so everyone can tell me how much it will blow up ;)

[lukeskyrunner]

7432

I feel like this is too simplistic but take a look :)

[Jabbas_reluctant_slave]

Don't forget a second switch for auxiliary (the picture of the pre-wired PC is kind of misleading, there are two JSTs there), you'll want a momentary switch for the aux funtions. Though it's not in your diagram, you had listed a RICE port so you will want to grab the cable for that also. Other than that looks like you got it.

[Silver Serpent]

I really need more coffee. I don't know how I missed the need for an aux switch when I first checked the parts list.

[lukeskyrunner]

Ahh yes the rice port! when you say a second switch for auxiliary, what do you mean?

[Silver Serpent]

The Petit Crouton uses two switches. The main switch for ignition (may be momentary or latching, as configured on the SD card) and the auxilliary switch (must be momentary). The aux switch controls extra functions such as Blaster Block, Lockup, Anti Power Off Protection (A-POP), and Mute-On-The-Go.

Strictly speaking, the aux switch is not mandatory, but you lose a number of very nice features if you do not include one. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-momentary-switch-P558.aspx is very tiny and will usually fit any number of places in a saber, and is ideal for use as an aux switch.

[lukeskyrunner]

Okay great, I will get one of those too don't want to miss out on those features! Does this then mean I need to machine A small secondary hole for my aux switch?

[Silver Serpent]

You're going to need a hole for the switch, yes. The one I listed earlier is just one of many momentary switches that you may choose to use in your saber. The one you choose is based on saber design, aesthetics, and space constraints.

If you have access to a drill press and tap sets, you may certainly add any holes you like. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?11154-Commonly-used-Drill-bits-taps-and-measurements has the measurements for most of the switches, ports, etc. in the store. You can also get the "Drill and Tap Hole" service from the store http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Drill-Tap-Hole-P193.aspx , and it'll be done for you. You'll need to be specific about hole location if you go that route.

[lukeskyrunner]

Okay great, my saber is black and silver so I'm thinking your suggestion suits, thanks for all the help and advice I shall surely post pictures of my progress and the finished product when it is done! :D

[DarkarNights]

Ahh yes the rice port! when you say a second switch for auxiliary, what do you mean?

The PC requires two switches, one of which (for aux) must be a momentary. The Aux triggers the blaster block and lockup sounds. In the picture where you have your switch there is actually two connectors there stacked, so it's an optical illusion that there's one connector.