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Rimshot15
07-23-2012, 05:00 PM
Good afternoon/evening everybody,

I've been on this site for the past few months working on a build and I think I have the majority worked out.
The main sticking point however, is that I am in no way an electronics person. So, I honestly don't know what extras I need and not sure on a power supply either.
Only going to be one led currently, and no sound. Might eventually add sound at a later date but figured I'd keep it simple.


Screw on LED blade holder style 4 (Tap hole 8-32 for thumb screw)
4" Double female threaded connector
2" Double female threaded connector
MHS Extension Blank Style 3
MPS Pommel style 10 (Powder Coated) (Tap hole 8-32 for covertec)
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 6
Machined button for Covertec clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head
Double ended male threaded connector style 2 (Powder Coated)
MHS choke style 1 short (Powder Coated)
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
16mm Anti Vandal Latching White Ring Switch
Brass Bezel for Illuminated switches
LED Trans White Show blade 1" OD


There will also be the machining for the switch itself, either on the MHS Extension Blank Style 3 or the 2" Double female threaded connector. Also, the emiter shown might change since it's currently outta stock and no clue when it might be back in.
Here is an image of the basic layout via the builder:
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/syntax3rror316/th_SaberBuilder_render.png (http://s988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/syntax3rror316/?action=view&current=SaberBuilder_render.png)

Thanks for any and all help in advance :D

Silver Serpent
07-23-2012, 05:31 PM
Looks like a good start.

For electronics, we'll need to know which color LED you're planning on using. Red and amber Rebels use a different amount of current than the other colors.

You will need a battery pack of some sort, and some form of power regulation (resistor, buckpuck, etc.) You will also need an additional resistor for the LED in the switch. Pick a color for your main LED, and if you'd like to use regular alkalines or rechargeable batteries, and we can assist you a bit more.

Rimshot15
07-23-2012, 05:47 PM
Ack, forgot the color on the LED! I was planning on just using the white one and probably use filters for now, not really sold on any one color just yet so want to sorta feel it out.

As for power supply, I was thinking something rechargeable is where I'd like to go. If I plan on using sound at a later date, does that change the dynamics of what to use power wise?

mrknify
07-23-2012, 07:37 PM
yes, a circuit is made to balance, you may want to check the math on this one.......

DarkarNights
07-23-2012, 11:16 PM
If you plan to add a Petit Crouton in the future it will need a 7.4V Li-ion 2 cell pack, there's a smaller board coming out soon called the Nano Biscotte which will take a 3.7V Li-ion 1 cell pack.

shmoetech
07-24-2012, 04:37 AM
oooh tell me more about this Nano biscotte?
rimshot15 dont forget solder iron and solder, heat shrink also.

Silver Serpent
07-24-2012, 04:58 AM
Info on Nano Biscotte: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=36467.0 Coming soon to the TCSS store!

I hear estimates of around a month (maybe less) until it hits the store. As DarkarNights said, the NB uses a single li-ion battery, while the PC uses two. I would go ahead and purchase an appropriate battery solution for the sound board you intend to use in the future.

You can calculate resistor value with an online resistor calculator. I use http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz and you can find values for your particular LED on the store's page for that LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx

Li-ion is rechargeable, and works very well in lightsabers. It has a lot of power, and doesn't take up too much room. You'll have to decide if you want in-hilt recharge, or if you want to remove the batteries to recharge. That's more of a convenience and aesthetics issue, and is entirely up to you.

shmoetech
07-24-2012, 07:47 AM
Just checked out the Nano Biscotte.....man is that thing small. The prospects for that board is endless...can't wait!

Rimshot15
07-26-2012, 04:10 PM
Oi, been a busy week so haven't been able to get back on and reply.
So, if I go with the Nano I'd have the 3.7V lithium and this looks like the wireing if I've got it right.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3.1;ID=1000
If I went the the buckpuck it would eliminate that resistor though right? It'd be the 1000mA type right and 6-wire or am I getting things mixed up?
Also, how does the lighted switch come into play? I plug the equation into the calculator just for that and this is what comes up http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3.3;ID=20
but would that go in before the buckpuck/blade or after?
If I decided to go with rechargeable batteries and a holder, that would change everything right?

Also, since the holder I was planning to use is out of stock I'm thinking on using Screw on LED blade holder style 17 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-17-P417.aspx) instead. The thumb screw should still work on there right?

Jordandau
07-26-2012, 04:45 PM
Buckpucks take the place of the resistor, with a Red rebel I wouldn't overdrive it. They don't like that. Lighted switch can be done a multitude of ways, depending on how you want it to react is how you'd wire it. Some boards have specific spots for a lighted switch, if they don't you can put it either inbetween the battery and the board so when you pull the key it turns on or, between the board and main led so that it comes on with the blade. I wouldn't recommend that though.

Silver Serpent
07-27-2012, 05:05 AM
Yes, you'd use the 1000mA buckpuck with a white LED. An important bit to remember: buckpucks need 5v minimum to turn on. If you go that route, you'll likely want a 7.4v li-ion pack.

I usually wire my switch LEDs in a parallel circuit to other components. You don't want it in series with your main LED. If you do that, you'll either end up with a really dim blade, or a burnt out switch LED.

Rimshot15
07-27-2012, 07:43 AM
Okay, that makes more sense with the parallel circuit. For some reason I was thinking the switch and the switch LED run on the same circuit...
This would work in place of the lithium ion pack http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2AA-Battery-Holder-with-JST-connector-P722.aspx while using li-ion 14500 batteries right?

Silver Serpent
07-27-2012, 07:55 AM
Yes. 14500 li-ions are AA sized. If you use that battery holder, you will want to recharge the batteries outside the hilt. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-All-in-One-Charger-P346.aspx is the charger you will want with that.

The switch and the switch LED are completely independent from one another. They just happen to be inside the same little container. :)

Rimshot15
07-27-2012, 08:37 AM
Thanks for all the clarifications here, it's been helping a lot. More or less final question I think. Now, I understand that you'll get 7.2V with the 2 pack, and 14.4 if I were to use the 4 pack. I can see that's overkill for what is needed, but is there any advantage on having the larger pack like the amount of time it would take before needing to recharge? I know that's probably a stupid question but wanted to see.

Silver Serpent
07-27-2012, 10:27 AM
There's a couple of ways to build a 4 pack. You can build it as a 7.4v pack with double the runtime, or you can build it as a 14.8v pack with regular runtime. You want to match the voltage of your pack pretty closely to the electronics you'll be using. Too much voltage will fry sensitive equipment, and insufficient voltage will not power it.

A 4 pack @ 7.4v is simply two 7.4v packs, wired in parallel. This has double runtime, but takes longer to recharge.
A 4 pack @ 14.8v is all 4 batteries wired in series. This has normal runtime.

DarkarNights
07-27-2012, 01:16 PM
Get these batteries if you go with the 2AA holder http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx

Rimshot15
07-30-2012, 12:24 PM
Quick question in regards to the services for drilling the tap holes and switch holes. Can you request these to be in a line of some sort? I.E. if I have them drill the switch hole can the thumb screw line up with it or is that not possible?

DarkarNights
07-30-2012, 03:56 PM
Yes, just contact Tim and let him know exactly what you want, he will index the parts so everything lines up.