Ledengin Deep red 10 W full powah? FoC? 3 dice?, using 3 X 17670's

[Gucabe]

Option 1: 4 Dice @1000ma
So im about to change my configuration to 4 dice using a Pex with my PC2.0. I will wire the 4 dies in series using 1000 ma to drive the leds... The total voltage needed is around 10.4v so 3 batteries will do (11.1v) or not?. also in my current hilt there is no room to fit the 18650's side by side. This is why im going to get the 17670's.

Option 2: FoC
I dont care much for the FoC feature because i do not duel. But in case i would want to have it, do you guys see any problem if I wire the led dice 3 in series for the main LEd (connected to the led drive from the PC2.0) and one die for FoC using pex?

Option 3:Full powah on 3 dice?
Wire 3 dice in series run them @ 1500ma (2.84v X3 = 8.5V) from the PC2.0 board directly.

What would you guys do?

I'm not an expert but im very familiar with electronics, just not so sure about which option to take.

ohh one more thing, is there a PCB circuit for 3X3.7v = 11.1V?

Thanks.

[Gucabe]

One more question, the PC 2.0 says: Power supply: 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A if 3 batteries in series go as much as 12.6v can this damage the board?

[DarkarNights]

Yes, it will damage the board to go over the max voltage. The user manual also highly recomends only using 2 cells.

[Silver Serpent]

Since you're not particularly interested in FoC, you could wire up the LEDEngin using a seriallel setup. Wire two dice in series, and then wire the other two dice in series. Connect both sets together in parallel to the PC2.0 and run it at 2000 mA. Each set will get 1000 mA, and you'll halve the voltage requirements that you'd need with all 4 in series.

You'll only need 2 li-ion cells with this setup.

If you change your mind later, you can always move one of the sets of series wired dice to the PEX for FoC.

[FenderBender]

Actually, you can do two dice in series off of the PC set at 1.5A, and the other two dice in series hooked to the PEX and instead of hooking the PEX (using a 2W 1 ohm resistor) to the FoC pad, you hook it to the PWM leg on the PC and it will give you a MUCH better Full Powah!

[174fps]

Is there a benefit of running the 2 series dice on the PC at only 1.5A, when you can run it at 2A? Runtime...or LED lifespan perhaps?

[DarkarNights]

Ok, I'm gonna have to ask a noob question lol. What is the PWM leg on a PC?

[174fps]

The PWM leg is the output of the transistor to the right of the FoC pad. See below for a photo of the FoC pad connection, and the second yellow line is where you would connect the PEX to the PC 2.0 for Full powah


7356

[Weaver]

I was also interested in running three dice for my blade, but not with the "Full Powah" setup. I was thinking two dice in series, connected in parallel to one die. The remaining die could be wired for Flash on Clash. The intended setup could be any color, but I was wanting an LED Engin 10W RGBW (RGB blade, W FoC).

Or is there another way to do that?

[174fps]

I have that exact setup on my latest build, but using a different board altogether. This board allows the use of any color for blade/clash when connected in this manner. It's a no-no here to promote non-tcss products, so I won't go much further, but check out the entries of this years contest custom catagory, they all have it.

What color are you looking for your main blade? You might be interested to know that R+G+B =white (at least with the setup above and all LEDS running at 100% output)


174fps

[Weaver]

As I understand it, the PC is basically your board's "little brother". Is this setup still possible on the PC 2.0? I remember reading that it auto-detects voltage, but that the current has to be set in the config file. If that's true, it should be capable of supplying the right amount of power. I'm just worried that it would average the voltage between the two LED groups, which would underpower the two series dice and blow the single die by overpowering it.

As to your question about blade color, what I really wanted was to set up a multi-position switch, so that I could cycle through different color combinations. I remember seeing a Luke ROTJ with a rotary switch, so I know it's possible. I just forget what board that saber had.

There was another reason for my 3-die setup. I absolutely hate the idea of running the Engin 10W at half power, but I want Flash on Clash. Running three dice as the main blade would give me 75% of its brightness, while still affording me a minor flash when I hit something.

I spent a few hours searching for others who had done this, but to no avail. The one thread I did find was this one. A 3-die setup was mentioned in the title, but was described as just three dice in series. A series/parallel with 2 and 1 was not mentioned.

If it ends up being impossible, or ill-advised, I suppose I can suck it up and drive this LED with just two dice, but I really didn't want to do it that way.

[174fps]

Nope not a CF, it starts with an I....

Using a switch to separate the colors seems flawed. If you were able to separate the colors via a switch, you would only have the three to choose from. Any other colors would have to be resistored to find the correct color, and can be painstaking to get it right. Not to mention that if you want to change those colors it would be a ton of work to do so.

Being able to set color combinations through the board's firmware is the proper way to do this as you can set any color, not being just limited to the die-only colors. This is the way I do it, and I absolutely love the results, not that doing a series pair for a main blade with the same for FoC on a PC 2.0 isn't cool as well, it kick @ss too.

Check out the threads on fx for info on that other piece...

[Gucabe]

Actually, you can do two dice in series off of the PC set at 1.5A, and the other two dice in series hooked to the PEX and instead of hooking the PEX (using a 2W 1 ohm resistor) to the FoC pad, you hook it to the PWM leg on the PC and it will give you a MUCH better Full Powah!

Thanks i think i will be going this route. I'll be using the 18650's then... so i wont run out of power fast.

Thanks to all too.

[Gucabe]

Is there a benefit of running the 2 series dice on the PC at only 1.5A, when you can run it at 2A? Runtime...or LED lifespan perhaps?

In theory if you run it to 2.0A then the run time will decrease... I believe my 18650s are 3000mah so with two sets of 1.5A (one through the PC one through pex) i'll eat up those batteries in about an hour (maybe less because of the sound and the pc..) bumping it up to 2a will reduce the battery by 25% aprox.

[Weaver]

Theoretically, couldn't I wire each die in series, as long as they're resistored to a combined voltage equal to, or lesser than, the PC's maximum output? I had also thought about wiring separate switches to each die, each with a resistor, and wiring the switches in series to the board's LED output. Again, if the combined voltage (with resistors) does not exceed the board's maximum, I think it should be fine.

I have to assume that the PC has a maximum output of 11v, since I can only find documentation on its maximum input (11v, as stated in the manual). Placing resistors on the G and B dice (if using an LED Engin 10W RGBW) to take them down to 3.2v should hit a maximum draw of 9.6v with all three active, assuming a series setup. This way, each die gets the same voltage and mA, and I'm able to switch colors on the fly.

Please be patient with me while I'm asking these questions. I've read all the recommended stickies, several of the A-Z builds, and have been monitoring new saber threads for months. I've also used the search engine to no avail. I ask because it's the only option left to me. I'm just trying to understand the technology.

Because it helps to be specific, here's what I'm trying to do:

A) Achieve a solid color saber using three dice as the main blade and one die as FoC.
Or
B) Achieve an RGB saber using three selectable dice (via multiple switches, or a selector switch) with one die (White) as FoC.

All that I've read thus far leads me to believe that the resistor solution will work. I'm just asking if that's correct. Since this thread already mentioned a 3-die solution, I put my questions here, instead of starting a new thread.

[StickStickly]

Actually, you can do two dice in series off of the PC set at 1.5A, and the other two dice in series hooked to the PEX and instead of hooking the PEX (using a 2W 1 ohm resistor) to the FoC pad, you hook it to the PWM leg on the PC and it will give you a MUCH better Full Powah!

Where would your resistor go in this set up ?

[Gucabe]

Where would your resistor go in this set up ?

On the PEX still. its just the activation wire will go to the PWM instead of the FoC

Now i did encounter a problem... When i charge the saber it turns the Pex on, turning a couple of dice while charging. Any thoughts on why is this happening?.

[Gucabe]

On the PEX still. its just the activation wire will go to the PWM instead of the FoC

Now i did encounter a problem... When i charge the saber it turns the Pex on, turning a couple of dice while charging. Any thoughts on why is this happening?.

Never mind, i had the ground of the PEX connected to the wrong pole on the recharge port.

Its complete now... four dice setup, two in series connected to the PC @ 2A hehehe.. couldn't resist. The other two connected to the PEX. It looks fuller than the 5W i had, but not much brighter... BTW the PC 2.0 is incredible... I had used the PC1.5 before but this one is a lot neater and easier to solder. Just wow. Had to reduce the volume to #3 Haaa... too loud.

[StickStickly]

Is this full power set up the same way you would do it on the CF ? And does anyone have a "not so small" picture of the wiring or a Real life picture ??? Thanks !

[Gucabe]

This is how i wired my led.

7372

Like i said before, the fullness of the blade is a lot better than with the 5w , however being deep red it will be less bright than a standard Red. Ill take some pictures today.

[Gucabe]

Ok i found what my problem was i set the current too high... when you go to high you can damage the led and for some strange reason y will look dimmer. I set the led current to 1250 and now it looks like it can light up the whole house... Man is this thing bright...and loud... i love it.

[Jedi Mynock]

okay you are convincing me to sell my PC1.5 that i havent even used yet lol
learned a few things from this thread, too.
you guys are awesome.

[Gucabe]

Well there is nothing wrong with the good'ol PC1.5 however the PC2.0 is a lot easier to solder plus the new features like FoC and the non mechanical sensors makes it an easy choice.

good luck.

[Gucabe]

Here are a few comparison pics from the 5W and the 10w full powah setup... for some reason the color looks red orange but i guess its the camera traying not to break due to an incredible amount of Deep red POWAH...

LOL

the 10 watt on the left.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/gucabe/803dd2d4.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/gucabe/b2dcb363.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/gucabe/f1e6dbc7.jpg

the 10 watt below.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/gucabe/e1798e13.jpg

it sure lights up the room no kidding. Love it