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penguin626
07-11-2012, 07:41 PM
Alright, so this is going to be my first saber. I have been wanting to make one for months, and I never got around to it. It's simple, with the switch in the pommel. I might buy the hilt parts first just so I can see what it looks and feels like before I buy the blade and electronics.

This is what it looks like in the MHS builder. 7328

Here's the list.

This is what I would buy first:

Screw on LED blade holder style 13
MHS choke style 1
MHS ribbed extension
3" Double female threaded connector
MPS Pommel style 4
MPS Insert style 11
MPS Clip
Nickel Plated Momentary Switch
8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

Then the blade/electronics:

LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (34 inches)
6AA Battery Holder
Premium 9V connector
BuckPuck 700mA 4-wire
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Deep Red)
1/8" Heatshrink tubing

I have a few questions/concerns. I initially wanted to use a resistor, but I had trouble figuring out what would be the best one to use. The buckpucks are supposedly much better anyways. Is it worth the extra $14? Also, will a momentary switch work? I'm really not sure what the difference is between momentary and latching, to be honest. I'm a noob, I know. Finally, what battery pack should I use? Will 6 AAs work? Will they fit in the hilt? Or should I use 4AAs, or even AAAs? Thanks, and sorry for all the questions.

DarkarNights
07-11-2012, 08:21 PM
Have you read the stickies for newbies by the way? If you are really having that much trouble figuring out what resistor to use then I think you answered your own question about the extra $14. I would recommend against the 6 battery holder, not only will this be extreme cram-fu for your experience level, but I think 9 volts on this set up may be overkill. 4 AA will do you fine, 2 would probably do you fine also. The momentary switch will not work with this set up, you'll want a latching. Read this thread http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14672-Guarded-vs-Normal to find out the difference between the two.

Once you figure out what you are putting inside, you need to check measurements against your design to figure out if you can fit everything in. Remember your button will take up space inside as well. Good luck with your build.

amwolf
07-11-2012, 09:25 PM
You also need to take into account how you're going to access those batteries. You could put a 4AAA holder in the ribbed section - it's tight but it'll fit - and with a quick disconnect on the LED assembly you can unscrew the parts back past the choke to get to it. Assuming the threads don't stick from use. One of the P4 kits is a good way to start, too - all of the parts you need without a lot of head scratching... Having the hilt in hand is always nice. Just seeing the parts, how they interact and form the space where your electronics have to go can answer a lot of questions as well as change designs.

Take the time and read. It almost never hurts.

penguin626
07-11-2012, 10:38 PM
Thanks for the feedback! I initially went for the nickel momentary switch because it was the cheap, unlit option. I wish I had seen that post on latching vs momentary earlier. I did some more research on resistors. Would it work if I use a 4AA battery pack with a 5.6 ohm 10 watt resistor to the blade led and a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to a red ring latching switch? Again, sorry for the questions, as well as my inexperience.

mrknify
07-11-2012, 10:58 PM
yes, thats the setup I have also. you can also use a buck puck... now do you have a multimeter ? make sure you confirm your voltages before closing your circuits, just a precautionary, that can save you from burning out the acsent led's

DarkarNights
07-12-2012, 01:44 PM
Thanks for the feedback! I initially went for the nickel momentary switch because it was the cheap, unlit option. I wish I had seen that post on latching vs momentary earlier. I did some more research on resistors. Would it work if I use a 4AA battery pack with a 5.6 ohm 10 watt resistor to the blade led and a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to a red ring latching switch? Again, sorry for the questions, as well as my inexperience.

You are correct sir. :D Also, here is a nice time saving tool that will help you in the future if you need to recalculate your resistors. http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

penguin626
07-12-2012, 01:52 PM
Yeah, I used that calculator no problem with only one led, but I got confused when I had to add another, different led. I just spent a few hours teaching myself all this electronic stuff with resistors and whatnot, and it all makes loads more sense. I did all the calculations by hand, just to make sure. So the best way to go is 4AAAs with 5.6 ohm 10 watt resistor and 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. Now, I have a few last questions. Should I wire it so that the switch light is only on when the blade is on? Or should I have it on all the time? How quickly would it wear down the batteries if it was on all the time?

DarkarNights
07-12-2012, 02:00 PM
You could wire it either way. I'm not sure how long it would take for the red ring to drain the batteries, but I wouldn't want to find out either lol. I would wire it to go off with the switch off, unless I was using a recharge port with Li-ions and a kill key, then I'd do the opposite so it's on as a power indicator light when the key is removed.

Evilpancreas
07-12-2012, 06:19 PM
Simplest battery pack to use is a 4AAA. Ssves you lots of space.

Silver Serpent
07-12-2012, 06:53 PM
If space is that big of a concern, and you're using resistors, you could go with a single li-ion battery. 3.7v is more than enough for the Rebel deep red and a switch LED. It's a little pricier to start out, since you'll want a charger as well. It is the most compact solution, and you'll get a great run-time on a single charge.

mastervex
07-12-2012, 08:45 PM
If this is your first saber, I would consider going with the resistor because it's really easy to wire.

penguin626
07-12-2012, 09:17 PM
Well, I don't know where I would put a recharge port. I would rather keep the hilt free of any knobs, switches, ports, or buttons except the one on the bottom. So my best option right now is just 4 AAA's and the switch wired to only turn on when the blade led is on. Thank you so much for all your feedback, guys! It's been so helpful!