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View Full Version : Has anyone taken the Guts of a MR and put them in



Grouch
09-05-2006, 11:25 PM
A custom hilt? All of the guts, LED string, battery back, sound ect. The reason I ask is because I really do like the whole LED string with it’s up and down motion for display purposes. I would like to make a one off "prototype" yoda saber that still retained ALL the MR features, while keeping close to a "real life" size. So we are looking at a hilt length of 8" max and a blade length of about 26". If I were to attempt such I thing I figured I would start with a Green Luke saber and gut that for the sound and blade.

Since I would have to shorten the blade I would have to shorten the LED string. I’m sure that would change its resistance, but to what extent and how it would effect it being powered I have no clue. I would also build it with sink pipe and one of Tim’s emitter tips and end caps.

Does anyone have any experience, thoughts, or suggestions?

JediMcD
09-06-2006, 07:06 AM
Grouch that will be a very big undertaking. I know that individuals around here have used most of the guts of an MR before, but I don't know about the led string. Cutting the string down may pose a problem as well. It is rather sensitive, and cutting on it may cause a series of problems in the board the leds are mounted to. Others may know alot more about it than me.

One question is why not use corbin's driver board sold here at the store. It will give you a ignition and retraction effect if that is what you are wanting to preserve. It will also give you added features like the clash and lockup effect. Then you could just use it and a normal luxeon led. You could also use the sound board you would have as well. This may be a much easier way to build a saber.

Pirate King
09-06-2006, 07:19 AM
best way to shorten it though, would probably just build past the emmitter; keeping the actual blade the same length, it would just be covered up by the hilt. doesn't leave much room for electronics, but it's workable.

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xwingband
09-06-2006, 07:37 AM
Check out this: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1473.0

I believe Tim did the conversion on that.[?] Meridian changed the Anakin hilt to look sort of like a Yoda hilt. All of it can be done basically.

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Lord Maul
09-06-2006, 08:37 AM
to shorten the led strip just cut from the top of the strip inbeetween the two leds, i tried that just for fun on my ani when it was gutted and it worked

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Do-Clo
09-06-2006, 08:49 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Lord Maul

to shorten the led strip just cut from the top of the strip inbeetween the two leds, i tried that just for fun on my ani when it was gutted and it worked
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
reckless you are[V][V][V]



Extreme care must be used when cuting the MR led strip, you can end up with the circuit board traces shorted out and the strip is ruined. It has to be a clean cut and then you need to remove an entire sction so that it doesn't look funny when powering up. I would opt for a luxeon led much simpler.

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Lord Maul
09-06-2006, 09:06 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">reckless you are<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

the led strip was garbage already cause i coverted the saber

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james3
09-06-2006, 09:50 AM
Prvt. Pyle must be lucky is all I can say. If there was ANY intellegent thought in there caution would have been used while taking on a project of this type.

Grouch, even though I can't stand the MR strips I see where you are going with this. You will want to use a resistor across the wire that would supply current to the bank that would be missing. That way it would maintain the same current across all leads instead of boosting up the ones you have left. It could be posible that they could take it but with out playing with one I would not guarantee that.

I agree that a Lux with a short blade would be the preferred deal. Keep in mind that when you shorten the groups of LEDs they will appear less of an extend/retract effect.

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Grouch
09-06-2006, 03:46 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JediMcD



One question is why not use corbin's driver board sold here at the store. It will give you a ignition and retraction effect if that is what you are wanting to preserve. It will also give you added features like the clash and lockup effect. Then you could just use it and a normal luxeon led. You could also use the sound board you would have as well. This may be a much easier way to build a saber.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I'm not fimilar with Corbin's driver. Thought it sounds like if it gives all the audio + more than the MR. The key visual feature though that I am looking to keep is the actual extention and retraction of the lit blade. And as for as I know the MR LED string is the only way to do that. If I could use Corbins driver and still some how use part of an MR led string then it could very well be a better alternative than just gutting out a Luke MR.

Grouch
09-06-2006, 03:48 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Pirate King

best way to shorten it though, would probably just build past the emmitter; keeping the actual blade the same length, it would just be covered up by the hilt. doesn't leave much room for electronics, but it's workable.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

That would be a good idea but the hilt needs to be short too. only 8" I need to shorten the blade by almost that much. :(

Grouch
09-06-2006, 03:51 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

Check out this: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1473.0

I believe Tim did the conversion on that.[?] Meridian changed the Anakin hilt to look sort of like a Yoda hilt. All of it can be done basically.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the
Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

AWESOME thanks for the link.

james3
09-06-2006, 03:53 PM
*here we go*

Corbin's driver has a nice extend/retract but it does not have sound. If you want sound you can use a hasbro or FX for that purpose but the Corbin board is for the LED. This has been said a hundred and ten times before but anywho, give it a try you will like it.

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Grouch
09-06-2006, 03:56 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by james3


Grouch, even though I can't stand the MR strips I see where you are going with this. You will want to use a resistor across the wire that would supply current to the bank that would be missing. That way it would maintain the same current across all leads instead of boosting up the ones you have left. It could be posible that they could take it but with out playing with one I would not guarantee that.

I agree that a Lux with a short blade would be the preferred deal. Keep in mind that when you shorten the groups of LEDs they will appear less of an extend/retract effect.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Thanks for the advice. It looks like I will have to do a bit of research on the LED string itself before I get started.

It will be a while before I take such an under taking. I may do an LUX blade with corbins driver as a prototype before I take on the task of LED strings.

THanks for the help and ideas guys.

JediMcD
09-06-2006, 03:57 PM
Grouch I didn't know if you knew it or not, but you have time to edit your posts. I think it is like 30 minutes or something like that. You can edit versus make a new post. Just thought I would let you know.

Now on to your posts. Corbin's board is designed by one of the people who helped make led sabers popular. His board was desinged to give the extend and retract effect. It also drives the led to be brighter than just a resitor wired in can do. There are several wiring diagrams on his website and around here. I don't believe that his board works with the MR strips though. You could just use a led in the hilt which would also make your saber more durable.

james3
09-06-2006, 04:01 PM
The great thing about this particular board is that you can edit forever. There is no time limit. And yes we do like to try to limit our double/triple posts.

Yes I have been known to do a few[V]

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Grouch
09-06-2006, 04:49 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JediMcD

Grouch I didn't know if you knew it or not, but you have time to edit your posts. I think it is like 30 minutes or something like that. You can edit versus make a new post. Just thought I would let you know.

Now on to your posts. Corbin's board is designed by one of the people who helped make led sabers popular. His board was desinged to give the extend and retract effect. It also drives the led to be brighter than just a resitor wired in can do. There are several wiring diagrams on his website and around here. I don't believe that his board works with the MR strips though. You could just use a led in the hilt which would also make your saber more durable.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Sorry. I didnt know that making multiple reples was a no no. [:(]I'll fix that in the future.


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by james3

*here we go*

Corbin's driver has a nice extend/retract but it does not have sound. If you want sound you can use a hasbro or FX for that purpose but the Corbin board is for the LED. This has been said a hundred and ten times before but anywho, give it a try you will like it.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Sorry I've read a lot of the forum and most of the FAQ but I havn't read anything about the qualities that Corbin's driver has, let alone 110 times.

xwingband
09-06-2006, 05:00 PM
It has been stated a few times... but I'll add it to the FAQ anyway. It will maybe clear things up in the future.

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Do-Clo
09-06-2006, 05:08 PM
At least 9 ot 10 times[:D] There is a lot of confusion over corbins driver, it will be good to have a description in the FAQ of what it is and what it does. Xwing maybe add a link to the wiring diagrams for corbins driver also in your description.

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JediMcD
09-06-2006, 08:17 PM
Hey it is no problem about the posts Grouch. I was just letting you know. It is easier to edit than start a new one sometimes.

I don't think you will be disappointed with a lux saber. You have lots of choices of style and color and plenty of upgrade capability. With Tim constantly adding new things in the store you will have more choices than you know what to do with.

I would definately recommend corbin's board. It has cool features and will allow you to run the led at its maximum.