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Hordriss
06-14-2012, 06:35 AM
Greetings from Saleucami,

This will be my first lightsaber and I'm essentially looking for some confirmation that I haven't missed anything and that the bits I've picked will actually all fit together, so...


Hilt style 2 with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 10

MHS "new style" Heat Sink

MHS choke style 1 short

Pommel style 3

Activation box style 9

1-3/16" ID Black O-ring x8

Colored polyc tube (Trans Green)

16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Red Ring Switch

10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw

4-40 Button Head


I'm not doing the electronics for the time being but want the prop to look finished, hence the switch.

So, does that all look ok? Have I missed anything?

Thanks,

Hordriss

Silver Serpent
06-14-2012, 06:42 AM
Other than the empty recharge port hole in your activation box, you appear to have everything you need for now. I assume you'll be doing your own drilling and tapping of holes for your switch and screws? If not, the store does offer that as a service.

Hordriss
06-14-2012, 06:48 AM
Recharge thingy, right.

Now you mention it it would be nice if they were already drilled, saving me going and buying a new bit. Do I just pop a note in when I checkout?

Oh, one more quick question, what stops the blade flying out when you swing the saber about?

Thanks

Hordriss
06-14-2012, 06:52 AM
Just found the drilling thing ;)

Skinnerman02
06-14-2012, 07:03 AM
Oh, one more quick question, what stops the blade flying out when you swing the saber about?


Retention screws, which can literally be any screw imaginable that's long enough. The length is pretty much determined by how much of the screw you want showing. I like to be able to unscrew my blades without the need of a tool, so I use flat tipped socket head screws. But I buy mine at Home Depot. They look a lot like the socket head screws in the TCSS store, but longer with grooves on the head for ease of grip. Some people use the set screws because they're easier to hide. Others just straight out use thumb screws. It's really up to you what kind of screw you need; but you do need one. Otherwise, as you stated, nothing is going to stop the blade from flying out when you swing the saber about.

Hordriss
06-14-2012, 07:08 AM
Thanks.

So a hole would have to go through the blade holder section into the blade... is that "Drill and Tap Hole" in the Services section?

Silver Serpent
06-14-2012, 07:31 AM
It is the "Drill and Tap Hole" service. You don't actually need to drill the hole into the blade itself. The screw will apply pressure to the blade and hold it in. I assume you're using the red acetal thumbscrew as a blade retention screw.

There are separate services for the various activation box holes. Be sure to pick the correct one for your box.

Hordriss
06-14-2012, 07:40 AM
Right then... I think I'm ready, fingers crossed.

Thanks to each of you for your assistance.

Love the saber on your sig btw.

TuxedoCartman
06-14-2012, 07:54 AM
One thing the OP forgot was the pommel insert, and C-clip to hold it in place.

Hordriss
06-14-2012, 07:56 AM
Oh dear... is that important?

Silver Serpent
06-14-2012, 08:02 AM
If you have the pointy pommel #3, then it doesn't need the insert or C-clip.

Inserts and c-clips are the most commonly forgotten items for new saber builders when building a shopping list.

TuxedoCartman
06-14-2012, 08:53 AM
Wait a... what? Huh? <checks store... beats head on desk>

First of all, didn't Pommel #3 used to be Pommel #16 or something like that? I was ALWAYS making the mistake of saying someone needs a pommel insert, then seeing they'd ordered the spiky one. Kinda embarrassing. This time, I saw "pommel #3" and thought, "Ah HA! I'm positive that one's a regular style pommel!"

Nope.

<sigh> OP, Silver Serpent is right: you don't need an insert or a ring. I'm just gonna go back to the Padawan-pen now, and play with the younglings, LOL.

Silver Serpent
06-14-2012, 08:57 AM
Don't feel bad TC. I've given the exact same advice for the past few sabers I've seen, only to have someone else point out the pommel doesn't use them.

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 07:37 AM
Now for the electronics... oh dear... not sure I'll be able to manage this... why was I so good in cooking and sewing at school but so useless at wood work and electronics? Come to think of it it was probably the homo***uality thing.

I've read the tutorials but i'm still not happy... and I can't solder.

Any advice/help would be great.

Silver Serpent
07-02-2012, 08:30 AM
The gender which attracts your interest is irrelevant to your personal abilities. Soldering is a skill like any other. You start out as a beginner and get better with practice.

If you want to avoid soldering altogether, there is the Modular Wiring System in the store. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Modular-Wiring-System-C82.aspx

Grab a LED module in your choice of color, an appropriate buckpuck (700mA for reds, ambers, and orange. 1000mA for most everything else), a latching switch, and a prewired battery pack. A 4xAA or 4xAAA pack will be sufficient if you want to use ordinary alkalines. You can grab a li-ion pack as well, but you'll need to get the charger and a few other accessories as well.

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 08:48 AM
Thanks, I've managed to find all that now.

What do I do for sound?

mrknify
07-02-2012, 09:25 AM
Thanks, I've managed to find all that now.

What do I do for sound?
look up hasbro economy sound in forums there are some nice helpers there. also heat shring is your friend, when you have twisted your wires, add a bit of flux, heat your iron up then with solder put then on wires.

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 11:00 AM
Hmmmmm, might leave it until I have a bit more experience but thanks.

So do I have everything I need electronics wise with:

MWS BuckPuck
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
4AA Battery Holder with JST connector
MWS Standard Style Latching Switches

?

Oh, while I remember, I went with a pointy pommel but now I'm not sure how/if it can be worn on a belt, I've looked at the rings etc. in the store and don't think they'll fit my design. I was thinking a ring insert with a loop attachment or something, any ideas?

Thanks again for the ongoing help everyone.

Silver Serpent
07-02-2012, 11:06 AM
Three common methods of attaching the saber to your belt:

1. D-ring and clip. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/D-Rings-C46.aspx
2. MPS insert 12 and a D-ring clip from above. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-insert-style-12-P535.aspx Does not work with the pointy pommel.
3. Covertec button and clip. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Covertec-C47.aspx My personal favorite.

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 11:16 AM
Thanks. I like option 3, not sure 1 or 2 will fit with my saber having the pointy pommel anyway.

Have I all I need to make it light up? I'll make my own szhummm noices for now lol.

Silver Serpent
07-02-2012, 11:26 AM
What you listed earlier for electronics looks correct. Again, be sure to get the correct mA buckpuck for your LED color. The Reds and Amber need 700mA, all other colors use 1000mA.

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 11:40 AM
Great, will I need anything to hold things in place inside or should it be ok loose?

DarkarNights
07-02-2012, 02:16 PM
Loose is not ok. You want to secure your parts inside so they don't rattle around. How you go about that is up to you and can be as simple as a piece of foam or as complicated as a custom machined chassis. Some people here have used objects ranging from M&M Minis tubes, to mini flashlight rubber bodies, to carved up pieces of PVC pipe to secure their components.

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 04:41 PM
Noted.

The button clip won't work, there's nowhere for it to go because of the screw on the pommel and the black rings round the main tube... I think it's back to my insert with a loop idea unless I add the button near the other end, opposite the switch but aren't they generally worn hanging from the belt by the pommel end?

Hordriss
07-02-2012, 05:37 PM
Solved the clip problem using the speaker holes round the base of the big spike and a key ring hoop, it looks quite professional if I say so myself and I'm not likely to get around to doing the sound yet, if ever.

Just totalled up the cost for making it light up... while the prices are very fair as I'm living on my dissability allowence I can't really stretch to it, especially with the postage to the UK.

The plan: sell some stuff on eBay, save up, come back to it later.

Anakin: "I say patience..."

DarkarNights
07-02-2012, 08:25 PM
I don't understand why there wouldn't be room for the covertec button on the hilt, just above the pommel? You would have to tap a hole of course.

Hordriss
07-03-2012, 05:28 AM
Well it would if the hole also went through the screw part of the pommel.

Silver Serpent
07-03-2012, 07:18 AM
Noted.

The button clip won't work, there's nowhere for it to go because of the screw on the pommel and the black rings round the main tube... I think it's back to my insert with a loop idea unless I add the button near the other end, opposite the switch but aren't they generally worn hanging from the belt by the pommel end?

Generally, yes a saber is hung by the pommel end. I have seen several done the other way, especially when there's no convenient location to place the button pommel-side. It will not adversely affect your ability to draw your weapon in either case.

If you have a solution you're happy with, stick with it. You can always do it differently on another saber. :)