PDA

View Full Version : First MHS Saber - Parts List



TrypWyr
06-06-2012, 10:20 PM
Hey all! I would first like to say a quick thanks to Silver Serpent and Jay-gon Jinn for their help with my other questions (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14494-New-LEDs-for-Old-Mace-Windu-Conversion). Their assistance led me to MANY other posts on the forums, which led me to realize that I just wanted to build my own saber, not buy another Hasbro/MR.

So here is my part list and my MHS Builder render:

7005

MPS Pommel style 5
--MPS Clip
--MPS Insert style 6
7" Fluted double female threaded connector
Ribbed grooved choke combo
--Black Wrinkle powder coat, style 3
Blade Holder style 23
Activation Box style 14
--Mounting holes service, in the 7" fluted piece, middle of the non-fluted section
16mm Anti Vandal latching red ring switch
--220 ohm 1/4w resistor
16mm Anti Vandal momentary blue dot switch
--150 ohm 1/4w resistor
Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Red)
--3.9 ohm 5w resistor
2.1mm Power Jack
3.5mm RICE port style 1
--RICE cable
MHS speaker and 4x AAA battery holder

Keep in mind, my next step is to purchase a PC and a rechargable battery setup, but they are out for now until I can get the hardware built like I like and well, can afford the rest.

My plan is to go ahead and install both AV switches and the ports since the button array just wouldn't look right empty. I do plan to use the red ring latching switch for my main ignition button, and use the blue dot LED button as just an accent light for now.

Any and all thoughts are very much appreciated. I am seriously excited to place my order and get started with my first build! :D

Tryp

Silver Serpent
06-07-2012, 08:29 AM
Blade retention screw, and a kill key for your recharge port. I didn't double-check the values on your resistors, but they look about right. When you upgrade to a PC and rechargeable batteries, you'll need to recalculate the resistors for the switch LEDs (and you won't need the one for the P4 at that point either.)

Everything else looks to be in good shape to me.

DarkarNights
06-07-2012, 09:09 PM
Do you plan on running your future PC off the 4AAA holder? Because you went with the one with speaker. If you intend to run your future PC with a rechargeable li-ion pack then your 4AAA holder will be obsolete, and you'd end up having to unmount the speaker to use it (too much extra work). I'd suggest getting a regular battery holder and a separate speaker later when you add the PC and li-ion pack.

TrypWyr
06-07-2012, 11:02 PM
Blade retention screw, and a kill key for your recharge port.

I don't really build to duel, just (very) minor knocking around with my four-year-old. I may end up tapping a retention thumbscrew later, but if it has decent tension as-is I might call it good enough. I really don't want to mar that BH with a screw if I can help it and can always add it later. I'm also kicking around the idea of playing with a shroud later and will probably order a different BH if I do. We shall see... ;)

As for the kill switch, the recharge port's not going to be wired yet and I have some other ideas there.


Do you plan on running your future PC off the 4AAA holder? Because you went with the one with speaker. If you intend to run your future PC with a rechargeable li-ion pack then your 4AAA holder will be obsolete, and you'd end up having to unmount the speaker to use it (too much extra work). I'd suggest getting a regular battery holder and a separate speaker later when you add the PC and li-ion pack.

I do, and you've got a great point. I was originally planning on counting on that to secure the internals, now I'm thinking about trying my hand at a nice internal PVC chassis. Also, this just saved me about $15 that I could spend on something else! Hehehe :D

Thanks so much, you two! I just pulled the trigger (ignited the blade?) on my order and am giddy with anticipation!

Tryp

Silver Serpent
06-08-2012, 05:10 AM
If you don't want a thumbscrew sticking out of your blade holder, you might like a set screw. They'll sit flush if you get the proper length and are barely noticeable. I *highly* recommend using some kind of blade retention screw. The blade may feel snug at first, but it has a tendency to pop loose at the worst times. I would hate for someone to get injured by a flying blade due to a lack of one little screw.