Hello from inSANe DIEGO... by the Sea

[Archangel_Gregory]

So hello all...
I am new here as you can guess. I've been bopping around the TCSS Site for a few months and purchased my first design in march with a lot of answers from Tim. He kept telling me to check the Forums for answers, what I didn't know was I didn't even know the questions yet. This is the List for my first saber:

Status:Completed
Items
•1 of: Pommel style 3
•1 of: MHS ribbed extension
•1 of: 7" Fluted with standard style switch hole
•8 of: 1-3/16" ID Black O-ring
•1 of: 4AA Battery holder
•1 of: 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Green Ring Switch
•1 of: Screw on LED blade holder style 10 "new style"
•2 of: 12 Colored Discs
•1 of: Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
•1 of: MHS choke style 3
•1 of: Choke Powder Coating (CH31)
•1 of: LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (38 inches)
•1 of: Main Body Powder Coating (DFS2)
•1 of: Pommel Powder Coating (PM31)
•1 of: 1ohm 5w resistor
•1 of: 150ohm 1/4w resistor
•1 of: 2.2ohm 5w resistor
•1 of: Bezel for illuminated switches
•1 of: 8-32 x 1/4" Set screw
•1 of: 8-32 x 3/8" black button head screw
•1 of: Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
•1 of: Machine AV switch hole

I think it looks really good but I might be a bit biased. The hilt is long to emulate a Katana but shortens in a twist. The soldering, is horrible but that will be fixed as I change it. I guess I didn't understand Tims diagram on how to hook up the momentary av switch because the ring on it doesn't light up at all.
I knew nothing of the sound cards but after looking around these forums I think I am going to go with the el cheapo hasbro $20 "obi wan" saber card. I will change out the switch to possibly a "MOMENTARY" switch to "activate" the sound card/saber and a "LATCHING" as a "KILL SWITCH". I am running a 4AA box and I also learned, if I put a speaker holder on the battery box then it shouldn't be bouncing around in the hilt. I use a white Rebel LED With the 12 pack of color filters. It's way cool so far but I have nothing to compare it too.
I do have a few questions:

1. This is an advanced question, I think. Can you use a LATCHING switch as a substitute for a KILL SWITCH. "Latching" would kill the power in the off if it was wired in correctly LIKE a kill switch, yes?
2. Is there a NEWBISHLY simple diagram for wiring the AV Switches? I chopped mine up.
3. Difference between Buck Puck and Resistors. Can I change LED's without changing resistors or buck puck? Buck Puck seems better...

Lessons I learned the hard way. Getting a 10$ soldering station (With clips and clamp "third hand") is worth it to save skin and do better work. Should have known the difference between momentary and latching switches, yup. Looking at ALL tutorials is worth it before you start (Forgot about tinning!). Be careful of the edges... Some sabers can cut!

A second saber is for my son and we will both be taking them with us to COMICCON in San Diego in July. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. I even have a few pictures.

Thanks for your time,

Grey

[Crystal Chambers]

Hey Grey!

Welcome aboard!

Yes latching switch can be wired as a killswitch. Just think of it as a break in the power supply. You could even use one to shut off your speaker if you want light and no sound. Sound can be annoying at times.
For your AV switches the - and + for the switch and it's LED should be in the store description. Otherwise you might want to look at wiring diagrams in the forum.
Buck pucks are more efficient then resistors. Resistors burn off extra power as heat. And buckpucks slow the current... I think. Regardless buckpucks are better but resistors work fine too.

TCSS filters are fun but if you can find Lee filters they're brighter with better colour saturation.

[Silver Serpent]

I don't see a pommel insert or the MPS clip for holding the insert in place.

1. Yes.

2. Depends on the particular AV switch. If you have one of the ones with 8 legs on the bottom, check the store for the diagram. I usually connect switch wires to C1 and NO1, and then wire up the LED as a regular accent LED.

3. If the LEDs have the same forward voltage, you can swap them out without changing resistors. If you're using a buckpuck (which is more efficient) then you can swap any LED that runs at that particular current (1000mA or 700mA). Please note that a buckpuck requires a minimum of 5v to operate correctly. A 4 AAA pack will work, but when the batteries start getting drained, they'll quickly get below 5v and you may have to replace them.

[Crystal Chambers]

You're main blade LED doesn't have to be exact resistance. You can overdrive them a little. For instance if it runs at 1000mA you can drive it to 1200 easy but the more the overdrive the more you shorten it's life. They last for a really long time so overdriving is common since it will give you a brighter blade.

[Archangel_Gregory]

Thanks for the info and ideas... I am running the 4AA pack and I'm sure its output is higher than the 4AAA. At least if I read it right. I do have a question for each or either of you, if you don't mind. I am thinking to take the innards and roughly do them all over. I am thinking to use a Buck Puck for two reasons,
A) They come recomended for less heat and more efficeint. Both of you recomend them as well as I don't see many posts on resistors.
B) I believe (Correct or not) that I will only need one instead of the two different resistors I have for the saber now.
C) When in the board they talk about "el cheapo hasbro sound boards"... they ARE talking about the 20$ target/walmart/toys-r-us sabers correct?
Those are what I am thinking to use for both mine and my sons hilts. I have not purchased the resistors for my sons hilt yet because I am thinking to use a buck puck and I want to make sure I have a good idea of what I am doing. Tim, I do in fact have the 8 lead AV switch... but after looking at the diagram... hooked it us as you suggested (C1 and NO1) but did not see or understand I had to hook up anything else... the leads are trashed and "removed".
Thank you both for your time...

Grey

The 4AA power info is this "6V of power from standard AA batteries or 14.4V with li-ion 14500's". So as both my sabers will have this battery setup, I will be looking for 14500 li-ions. This should give me sufficient power for all this (Hasbro "El Cheapo" sound and lighting up my saber) I expect. As the buck puck page said red LED's for 700ma and all else use 1000ma I assume the 1000ma. Is there a diagram for the buck pucks? I assume one buck puck for Sound, AV Switch (or 2), and LED/Emitter? IF I should ask this somewhere, where? :)
BTW, Tim... When I am at the ComicCon here in San Diego in mid July, I am making and taking some of those "business cards" for TCSS. Before that I will show you what I intend to have copied up or printed. Don't know if that will be good or bad but it should make for some extra income for you. See a LOT of FX style sabers there... Plus of course "The 501st Legion" has a booth as well as thousands of members there. Not exagerating... it should help with what I expect to be TONS of questions.

Endebted,

Grey

[Ka'getsu]

Actually grey if you have an additional 15 dollars to spare you could buy an ultimate FX saber and gut it for it's board, they're a bit better than the el cheapo boards mainly because the blade doesn't flash when you power your saber up, and you can get an almost eye searingly bright blade without the use of a transistor, but you can use one if you want to make the blade brighter. here's a link on how to wire one up http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13266-New-Ultimate-FX-vs-standard-Hasbro-sound-comparison/page5 (don't wire up 2 swing sensors as it'll short the board out) and if you want to use a resistor or a buckpuck the el cheapo tut/ diagrams still apply (I think)

MTFBY

Ka'ge

[Archangel_Gregory]

I have found the FX blades at 35$ at Walmart and Toys R Us. After reading the forums it seems the opinion is that the "Obi Wan Kenobi" FX blades are the best boards for the conversions but they aren't around. I found a lot of Darth Vader and Darth Maul FX blades. What blades are easiest/best and worst for the sound card conversions? Thanks for the links for the conversion BTW. I Have TWO blades to work and I want to set up both with Buck Pucks. They are both powered by 4AA packs running 6v. I intend to put Li-Ion rechargeables in them for 14v. They are both running Rebel White LED's. If I understand this I should use the 1000ma Buck Pucks with the 6 wires. I am thinking to run a soundboard from and FX Saber, a Latching and Momentary Switch in a Box 14 with 2 LED's. I can't find anything that says if this will work or if I will need something else as well??? Not looking to blow my board or burn my hilt. ANY help offered is great... I've gotten much already, Thanks. BTW Chrys? Where would I find the "Lee" filters? What would I look for?

Flow with it...

Grey

[Silver Serpent]

I don't have much experience with those sound boards. I'm not sure how much power those boards will take, but I'm certain a 14v pack WILL blow them. The only sound boards I know of that take two switches are the Petit Crouton and the Crystal Focus (maybe the Igniter, but I'm not sure on that one). You'll only need one switch for an FX board, but I don't know whether they take latching or momentary.

You could possibly use a 2x li-ion pack at 7.4v to run those sound boards, but check with some of the other members around here first who have used them.

[Archangel_Gregory]

Heya Guys,
So I am getting conflicting info in some of this and a few vauge ideas.

SS: "I don't see a pommel insert or the MPS clip for holding the insert in place." ~ I didn't have a clip or insert because I got the pointed #3 pommel.

Crystal: I might have an in on the Lee filters. If I can get some I will pass it on back to you. It seems there is 3 dealers here in my area.

Ka'getsu: Got the ultimate FX Darth Vader... Liked the sounds. Thanks for the heads up.

So here is my problems... I actually put up a new string and got one answer and was told "anything much over 5v will blow the sound card". I was also told I would still need a resistor (Transistor? - ka'getsu) but I thought that all I would need is a buck puck? What voltage should I be looking at? I can change my power by either 1.5v at a time or 3.6v. If I run a pair of 114500 Li-Ion I will be sitting at 7.2v but will that kill my board... SS... How do I find the people that have the info? The last question... for now at least. How would I use a latching as a kill switch? I was thinking about running it in series (?). if power goes to the first switch then the pos when on to the second switch (Don't know if I need latching or momentary) then the prime switch would be lit when live. Then the question becomes, do I need a resistor, will the puck handle it, do I need to double anything? I am of the opinion that the buck puck wiring for the switch (When I find a diagram) would NOT need to be changed since the voltage going threw is not changed from having one switch or two on that circuit... a break in the chain is all a kill switch is anyway.
Please guys & gal... I'm sticking with your advice since you were first and got a LOT more time working these hilts than I. Getting checked into the boards when I dont know what the Puck I'm doing is rough.

Thanks,

Grey

[Jordandau]

The buckpuck would only be used for the main LED. Illuminated switches generally have a much lower current requirement, like 10-20ma as opposed to 700-1,000ma for main led. If you wanted a switch to kill all power to the board, get a latching switch, wire it to the + and - of the battery before the board. Then when it's open (a break in the circuit) no power gets to the board, no lights no sound etc. When it's closed (complete circuit) it runs as normal.