Questions about the PC version 2

[JediGuardian18]

Hello guys so I am currently building my first saber. I have little experience so I am using the MWS. I want to eventually add sound, but I had some questions about the PC. I would likely purchase the JST pre-wired version since I am no expert. Do I need to have clash or swing sensors too or does the soundboard have those because I have no experience with clash or swing sensors. Also do I need to purchase an RGB LED that supports FoC? What else would I need to purchase to ensure that the FoC and sound would work with MWS? Thanks to anyone who takes the time to help! :)

[FenderBender]

There is not a current MWS setup for FoC. MWS really is for the most basic of installs. Anything more advanced and you're just going to have to bite the bullet and learn how to solder;) No, you do not need any swing or clash sensors.

[JediGuardian18]

Great! No more extra sensors. I definitely plan on learning to solder as soon as I get a soldering gun. So do I need to use an RGB Luxeon LED? Oh and If I decide to just add flash on clash later, the saber will still have sound and all the swing and clash sounds it just wont flash right? Thanks! :)

[Darth Nater]

You will definitely need a pencil tip on your soldering iron for use on a PC. The pads are small, and you will make a mess of things with an iron with a fat tip. A Rebel or P4 will work fine, but I would go with an LedEngin if you were to use the FOC feature. Also would need a Power Extender (found in the SOUND section at the store) as well. You are correct in the last statement. Sounds will remain, just no blade flash on the pre-wired setup. I had done 5 econo board sabers before I did one with a PC. And that required just soldering wires together which is easy, and no real on board soldering other than to the LEDs. I did have a wire or two that came loose from the econo board that I had to fix, but nothing big. The PC was not hard for me, but it was tedious. I spent most of the time worrying about messing it up. I did not have an issue though. My hardest part was soldering to the LedEngine. It was a royal pain in the butt getting it to stick. There are tips to be found here about that. Use them wisely if you venture in that direction. The PC itself is not hard to solder to, its just small. The only time I have ever soldered in my life is making sabers, and I have only made enough for my kids, a couple relatives, and myself so not a lot of time doing that. It can be done by a novice, but it will pay off in the end to read a lot about it first, and likely practice on something that doesn't cost $130 beforehand.

[JediGuardian18]

Okay awesome thanks for all the help. I assume if I don't use an RGB LED, and just a P4 or Luxeon the color will just flash on and off on a clash and not a different color right? I planned on the Power Extender, I saw a nice diagram in the PC manual on where everything needs to go. So if I am using just the MWS and I set up the power extender and solder all that, flash on clash should work? Does anything need to be soldered onto the LED too because the MWS has everything in JST connectors or will it all still work?

[Machinimax]

Yes if you use a Seoul or Rebel the blade won't have FoC but the blade will shimmer and flicker. If you are not planning on using the LEDEngin so that you can have FoC then you do NOT need the Power Extender.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

The blade does have a clash effect even with a single die LED.

[JediGuardian18]

Okay great. So what I am imagining is that when the board detects a clash the LED will flash, it just wont flash a different color right? I also am curious that if I get the MWS PC 2.0 then all I would need to do would be to attach the JST connectors from the FoC part of the board to the LED, or is that not right? Sorry guys I haven't installed a soundboard before. Thanks for your help and patience.

[174fps]

HI there,

I would like to add a question about the PC 2.0 to this thread please. I have read in other threads here that it is not recommended to solder through the holes on the PCB of this piece. In fact, one member was having issues with his PC and the response from several others was to desolder the entire board and reconnect the wires on top of the holes rather than through them.

I see in the MWS PC photo in the shop the wires look through holed, and I can't find anything in the manual that suggests this is recommended. or required. It seems odd to me, given that every PCB out there is soldered in this manner (through holed). I have surface soldered parts on 2 econo boards before, but done only as a repair when necessary.

I have just ordered my first PC and want to iron out any of these tips or tricks before I turn the iron on, so if anyone can clarify this I would appreciate it.



Tx!
174fps.

[Xanatos1986]

its not recommended, but as long as the speaker pads are soldered on top and not through hole you sould be ok... I say that because tim did it through hole.

[174fps]

Hmm..okay sounds good..I would prefer to do it through hole myself. Do you know the reasoning against soldering through-hole?

Thanks for the quick reply!


Tx!
174fps

[Zzan]

Hmm..okay sounds good..I would prefer to do it through hole myself. Do you know the reasoning against soldering through-hole?

Thanks for the quick reply!


Tx!
174fps

Because the micro card holder was directly opposite the speaker terminals and people that used too much solder or soldered through the holes ended up shorting out on the casing and causing all sorts of issues that are hard to track down.

There really isn't any need to have that much solder that you would need to go through the hole. It is just good practice and easier to troubleshoot if you are consistent in the way you connect everything.

That being said, if you know what you are doing you should be fine. Though if you post a pic here with soldering through or on the backside to get help with troubleshooting, Everyone is going to tell you to de-solder all and resolder to the top only, because 9 times out of 10 that will fix the issue if the board is not already fried from a short.

[174fps]

Okay last one (thanks again for the reply)

It appears in the PC manual that the footprint resistor pads for the accent LEDs are for surface mount resistors. I haven't used these myself, so I am hoping someone here can confirm.

The pads look pretty small so I am curious as to others experiences with these. Is it common to use these type of resistors? Or do most use axial/std style resistors on the + lead and forget about the footprint pads altogether?

Thanks for all your help everyone!

Tx!
174fps

[Silver Serpent]

The resistor pads on the PC should be pre-bridged so you'll need to use a standard resistor. Hand soldering surface mount components is not for the faint of heart.

If you have a good deal of experience working with SMD components, I believe it is possible to un-bridge the pad and use an SMD resistor on board. I'm not certain what size they are. I know the Crystal Focus (big brother of the PC) uses a 0402 footprint.

If you don't have M4D SKILLZ with a soldering iron, then just stick to using standard resistors. :)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You mean like this, silver Serpent?
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2039/100_1968.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2039/100_1969.jpg

Piece of cake. ;)

[Silver Serpent]

Yes. Exactly like that Jay. But then again, you have the M4D SKILLZ. :D

I'm actually pleased to see it's been done. Up until now, I've just been assuming the pads could be unbridged.

[174fps]

I am looking through the PC manual and there is no note that I can see relating to max current output for the PC. It notes under the LedCurrent configuration that you can enter a value of 2000 to get a 2A output, but is the max for the unit? If you enter 2000, will 2A flow through the main LED output? I dont want to pop the unit/die but also want to make sure each is getting as much current as possible.

I am curious what others have tried, settings-wise when using a multiple die setup with the PC 2.0 for current settings for a seriallel setup for a LEDEngin.


Thanks!

174fps

[Silver Serpent]

PC 2.0 has a max output of 2A. Previous versions (1.5, 1.6) will only output up to 1.5A.

Entering a value of 2000 will cause the PC to give 2A to whatever is attached to your main LED output. With a seriallel LEDEngin setup, each pair of dice will receive 1A.

[174fps]

Thanks for the info SS, much appreciated.

Just a few more questions and I think I am going to be ready to solder away..

With a Full Powah setup (single color RRRR example), does one enter 2000 for the mA current spec in the configuration of the soundbank? If I understand correctly, parallel splits current, so the series pair parallelled to the main LED should receive 1A each with this setup. But what about the Full Powah pair? What output is delivered to them? If the 2A output is simply divided between all 4, and each die gets 500mA only, are you better off driving just two dice at 1A each?

Second, which of these setups delivers the best/brightest result?

a.) A seriallel setup - 2 series pairs then parallelled to the main LED output

or

b.) A typical Full Powah setup using a PEX?


c.) or something else I am entirely overlooking?

Would run times be different between the two?

Phew long post...okay I am done for now, thanks for all your help



Tx!
174fps

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Since a true full powah set up uses a PEx, you would limit the current to that pair with the appropriate resistor for the target current you're looking for. I would not try running both pairs of die from the main output, since all you'll be doing is dividing the current further, resulting less brightness.

[Elim Vos]

jay, i got a question,
I'm currently stateside, picking up needed parts...visiting family, is there a specific gage of solder i should be looking for?
currently have a 4oz 60/40 ros core. it looks a bit large to use on a PCv2...

love being able to run to radioshack or Hd, but heading back to the outer rim next week........

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I use a rosin core 60/40 as well, and I think the diameter of the solder wire is 0.032", but I'll have to double check that when I get back home tomorrow.

[174fps]

Has anyone had any issues with the 18mA accent LED output from the PC 2.0? I would like to use these outputs for my AV LEDS as well as my crystal chamber, and in both cases, the current rating of the LEDS is >18 mA.

My LED ratings are 20-30mA. As the voltage requirements are the same it would appear that they will still light, but I am worried that they will not receive enough current to be bright enough for their purpose. I would prefer to use these instead of having to draw from the main LED output.

Any thoughts everyone?

Tx!
174fps.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It won't be a problem...I use the accent pads all the time for the AV switches and 3-5mm leds. I even still use a 1ohm, 1/8th watt resistor, and they still work just fine.

[174fps]

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for a full powah setup for the LEDengin and PC 2.0? If one does not exist I should be able to get by if someone can help me out with the signal wire connection from the PEX...where does it go on the PC 2.0?


Thanks for your help!

174fps