Modular pommel system?? [Archive] - The Custom Saber Shop Forums

james3

08-30-2006, 09:53 PM

I like plan b. I think having about the length of the pommel as a resonating chamber is nice. I have a saber here now with the speaker at the end of the battery pack and it butts up to the end of the pommel when I screw it in.

edit- I just thought of something, what if you did a small m/f section so that the speaker cover could lock in like a heatsink on the male side then have about a half inch with holes all around for sound and then the female threads for the standard pommel? it really would not change any of the current stuff and it could just be another add on piece that would not look to different from that piect that connects the maul fx's together.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

Strydur

08-30-2006, 10:17 PM

Thats not a bad idea either james. I think more people might like the first idea though since they may not want holes showing like that. We will have to wait for them to chirp in with thier ideas.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Madcow

08-30-2006, 10:18 PM

Actually I'm re doing my pommels right now to fit speakers.

I'm machining room in the pommel to slide in a speaker, MR Luke grill (or custom disk w/ holes), held in place by a circular spring. All inside the pommel. Similar to the MR setup.

I'l post pics when I'm done.

MC

http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

Strydur

08-30-2006, 10:32 PM

Thats what I had in mind madcow. Could us a c-clip or similar to hold the speaker grille/blank/etc.. in place. But I think the best way to deal with the wire twisting issues would be to put the speaker between the pommel and the body.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Tenric Starkindler

08-30-2006, 11:00 PM

would it be possible to connect the speaker to a grille and make the pommels able to accept the grille with some sort of retaining screw or pin.
Then you could screw on whatever pommel you wanted to and then attach the speaker\grille assembly?

it might work better if there were a quick connect\disconnect for the speaker wires...then you could also change pommels as easily as you can change LEDs.

OR was that what Tim was getting at??

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

Drewbacca

08-30-2006, 11:41 PM

I want a pommel with a huge spike...you know...for stabbing.

"Following the teachings of Revan during the Mandalorian wars, this young Jedi participated in the slaughter of countless Mandalorians. Unlike many of his brethren, he never fell to the Dark Side. With his connection to the Force severed, he walked into the darkness of Exile. Blessed and Cursed with a rare Force disease, he now wanders the Outer Rim serving Justice to the Unjust with his green lightsaber...never aging. Only a fatal wound will end his suffering. A master of Form V: Shien, this broken Jedi forever searches for his path back to the Light.

SilentBob501

08-31-2006, 02:28 AM

I love the idea of having multiple pommels that fit with the luke sound board. I hate having to be saddled with the luke pommel only.

james3

08-31-2006, 05:17 AM

Since I have always used the standard pommels and set my speaker up past the threading I have no doubt that doing a setup like that will work out well. It will save me from drilling pepper shaker holes in the pommels[:D]

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

xwingband

08-31-2006, 05:46 AM

I think you should just adapt the heatink to be a speaker holder. The space is built in to hold it, why mess with a good system?

Then the pommels would need to change. I think making them them hollow and inetchangable endcaps would be wise. That way you could have a grille or speaker cloth type one and standard ends would fit too.

The only problem I see is that all of the endcaps aren't similar enough (size) to make all accept them and make all pommels capable of being "speakered".

Since this modular... the only other possibility I see is a (or set) of speakered pommels. Just quick disconnect them in and out.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
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Strydur

08-31-2006, 08:50 AM

Ya, I realize I cant convert all of the designs over but most of them I could 1,2,4,6 would work with the design being finished by the insert. This would raise the price of the endcaps though.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

JediMcD

08-31-2006, 09:28 AM

Honestly I don't think that we would balk at the price. I know that we would love to have other options for incorporating sound. If you build it they will buy it.

Ambo

08-31-2006, 10:47 AM

Here is an idea.....Like Xwing says....use a disk the same diameter ans the heatsink to mount the MR sized speaker to it....make the design simple by instead of making it a disk just make it a ring.....In other words make it with a large hole in the middle of it to let the sound through.......to adapt the pomels(which you could do inhouse to pomels you curently have) and this is two foold....drill a hole in the pomel that will except the switches you carry....i have done this many times with your pomel....the second thing is that the hole drilled in the pomel could second as a port ,if not using as a switch mount, to let the sound out of the bottom....I will doa diagram of this now and Edit it onto this post in a few min....

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/AmboAW/Pics/Diagram.jpg
I have both the switch and the speaker on the diagram...but one would actually chose one or the other since it would be tough for the sound to escape with the switch in the way.

The great thing about it would be the diversity of it, the person could buy it and decide if he wants the hole to be a sound prot or if he wants the switch to be there....and although it dosnt remedy the twisting wires problem, my response to that would be to make a mount that attaches the speaker to the battery packs MR esque style.....or just have people adhere it to whatever battery pack they are using....and then the pomel just buts up to the speaker and again the stock pomel witha hole in it gives it an excellent resonace chamber.

Basically a drilled hole in your pomels tim large enough to accept your switches will give you a simple hole for sound to escape and wi much simpler to the grill option you were thinking of implimenting(which would require a complete new design and more money to be spent and charged)

Edit: Resized image

<center>http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/AmboAW/Signs/AmboSPEC.jpg</center>

<center>If my grammar it is you do not like, live with it you will have to.http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/AmboAW/Smilies/icon_boxing.gif </center>

darthdan

08-31-2006, 09:22 PM

I'm definitely all for a system that would allow for pommel switches and a sound grille. Just pop out the blank and insert switch or grille. I also like james' idea of a m/f section with speaker vents. Combine these two and you could have a saber with sound and a pommel switch, which is exactly what I am going for!

"set the gearshift for the high gear of your soul..."

Madcow

09-08-2006, 11:25 PM

I just finished this pommel. The inside is machined to be 1 1/8". Big enough for a MR speaker and grill. It is all held in place by a C-spring made of 18 g. wire.

http://preview.rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/4150076_348.ts1157763903313.jpg
http://preview.rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/4150084_348.ts1157763922211.jpg
http://preview.rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/4150099_348.ts1157763960319.jpg
http://preview.rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/4150109_348.ts1157763979648.jpg
Tim - is this what you were thinking too?

MC

http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

GFORCE13

09-09-2006, 12:42 AM

MadCow great design, I would go with this especially like the blank change out option for either a switch or grille.[:)]

<center>
" I am a Jedi like my Father before me"
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/th_DCP_1240.jpg
</center>

Tenric Starkindler

09-09-2006, 08:40 AM

WOW Madcow!
I'd pay you to do one for me if you were willing when I scraped up the cash for my MHS.

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

xwingband

09-09-2006, 08:48 AM

Unless he remachined an MHS pommel (which Tim could do) that would more than likely be for only Madcow's customs. That's pretty much what I was thinking for the design.

Have any close ups Madcow? I'd like to see what's going on with the wires. I assume you drilled holes, but I can't see them.

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Madcow

09-09-2006, 10:47 AM

Correct X-wing,
This pommel is for my own... my precious...

I do believe Tim is thinking of doing the same thing for the MHS pommels - I just wanted to do it first.[:D]

X-Wing, here is a closer shot of the inside. The wires will run straight into the handle. I may put a peice of electrical tape on the aluminum nearest to the contact points of the speaker.
http://preview.rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/4150122_1024.ts1157763998070.jpg
This speaker is one I got on ebay that is the same dimensions of the MR speakers.

MC

http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

SilentBob501

09-09-2006, 10:50 AM

Madcow that pommel is the snitz, I can only hope Tim is watching and follows suit.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/semmerman/sig1.jpg
"Action, excitement, a Jedi craves not these things."

xwingband

09-09-2006, 11:06 AM

ah... I thought you had made a recess in the bottom (still solid) you would need holes to route wires. I Couldn't tell it went through and there was a lip.

I was thinking a recess wouldn't be bad... it would keep some more weight in the pommel.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

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Strydur

09-10-2006, 08:15 PM

Thats what I had in mind madcow. I have done similar setups just not with c-clips. I probably wont make it so the speaker is held in place like that though. For you it works but for a screw on pommel you have to deal with the wire twisting issues. I will probably go with the speaker mount that is held in place by the pommel similar to the led heatsink and then the different pommel end pieces held in place by c-clip. I might even look into having that speaker mount possibly attaching to the 4aaa battery pack for a more custom look.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Darth_Dadderall

09-12-2006, 09:40 AM

How about a speaker holder piece that runs double-male with the speaker inside and held down by a c-spring, that you can screw on a pommel top on one end and into the hilt on the other? That would let you straighten your wires out and get your speaker locked down before applying the pommel piece.

macross73

09-18-2006, 12:48 AM

these will be great when thy're available.
Looking forward to them.

Ryma Mara

12-27-2006, 07:46 PM

I know old

But I was wandering what all was in the works.

As soon as I get the cash to finish this one, I need to have the pommel I do have machined.

Tim any ideas in the future for this MPS(modular pommel system)?

I know the wire twisting issue is a problem, but say have the speaker mounted to a heat sink type disk, then whatever holds it in like the rest of the mhs then the pommel is machined for the sound to escape and no wire twisting problems.

Lord Maul

12-27-2006, 09:13 PM

tim has said that early in the new year the MPS will come to life :wink:

vortextwist

12-27-2006, 09:24 PM

tim has said that early in the new year the MPS will come to life :wink:

does that mean "frankensiein" life or "whoo hoo" life?

Lord Maul

12-27-2006, 09:32 PM

not sure what you mean by that but the first version of it will be out. it will only get better from there just like the mhs

Strydur

01-17-2007, 04:35 PM

The main bodys are in construction phase. Then its time to come up with all of the insert/grille designs. Feel free to post ideas.

vortextwist

01-17-2007, 04:37 PM

I kind of like the way a metal mesh looks like, (window screen, only thicker metal. Pipe screens :oops:

xwingband

01-17-2007, 04:52 PM

Yup wires mesh is good. Like what's on mics and stuff.

Also:
pepper shaker style
straight rectangles
speaker cloth
concentric rings

then maybe for my own lols... imperal cogs and rebel crests? :D

vortextwist

01-17-2007, 04:53 PM

imperal cogs and rebel crests? :D

those would be awsome.

xwingband

01-17-2007, 05:07 PM

I think it'd be neat too. If it follows the c-spring idea that got posted sometime ago I can see layering other grilles behind the logos.

Like a imperial cog with a speaker cloth grille behind it.

Speaking of logos... and if were smoking crack, I'd get a kick out of the shop logo. Maybe not the whole thing but the crystal and name. :D

Lord Maul

01-17-2007, 05:09 PM

and you could just do a plate with holes drilled in it. plain and simple be da bomb :D

xwingband

01-17-2007, 05:14 PM

and you could just do a plate with holes drilled in it. plain and simple be da bomb :D

dee dee dee... that's what pepper shaker style means. :P

Firebird21

01-17-2007, 05:21 PM

TCSS insignia.

I thought that would be obvious.

Edit: Oops, xwing said it...

That makes this a 2nd for that motion. Time for a vote!

vortextwist

01-17-2007, 06:01 PM

and you could just do a plate with holes drilled in it. plain and simple be da bomb :D

dee dee dee... that's what pepper shaker style means. :P
I almost peed myself

POST OF THE WEEK

Firebird21

01-17-2007, 06:17 PM

and you could just do a plate with holes drilled in it. plain and simple be da bomb :D

dee dee dee... that's what pepper shaker style means. :P
I almost peed myself

POST OF THE WEEK

Hide the Microphones... :twisted:

Warning! Not for the easily offended!!! (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=910491497)

Strydur

01-18-2007, 01:14 AM

Drawings, sketchs, pictures, etc..etc.. I am a visual person :lol:

LordArgyll

01-18-2007, 07:16 AM

Just a few designs I slapdashed together while drinking my morning coffee and avoiding work.

http://darkside.sandwich.net/images/random/mps.jpg

vortextwist

01-18-2007, 07:29 AM

here is the imperial cog, couldn't make it nice like lordargyll did but you get the idea.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i259/vortextwist/light%20saber%20pics/d6_1_b.jpg

xwingband

01-18-2007, 07:33 AM

The 1st, 2nd and 5th were what I was thinking of.

Ryma Mara

01-18-2007, 09:34 AM

You come home with one b and I kill your LMAO

See when carlosM. is just doing stand up hes funnie but his regulat tv show is lame as hell.

and the gog would be sweet as hell, and the ones argyll posted they are pritty sweet.

JediHilt

01-18-2007, 10:17 AM

I have no idea if this would work or not but what if instead of using a speaker in the pommel you could use wireless earphones the battery won't get run down from operating the speaker the sound effects will be a much higher quality and will be more believable being blasted directly into your ears that way you get ((((surroundsound)))) :twisted: instead of mono with one speaker and speaking of surroundsound we could even hook this into your entertainment systems speakers or be mobile with your cars massive subwooofer :twisted:.

vortextwist

01-18-2007, 10:22 AM

sure but I want other people to here it, not just me.

Ryma Mara

01-18-2007, 10:24 AM

IF your gonna do that you might as well as nto go with sound.

I think the whole point of having sound is so you get that more "real" feel.

vortextwist

01-18-2007, 10:30 AM

your up early.

JediHilt

01-18-2007, 10:36 AM

Yah but you can hook it up to your house or car speaker system for really loud surround sound and would you rather have poor sound everyone can hear or rally good sound you can hear.

vortextwist

01-18-2007, 10:37 AM

I think ervs board will be set up for that. any anyhow I think having the choice to have the one speaker and hook it up wirelessly would be cool.

xwingband

01-18-2007, 12:15 PM

A solid pommel shouldn't interfere with any wireless system. Just buy a solid pommel... the whole point of this new system is for the speaker.

vortextwist

01-18-2007, 09:02 PM

Can you do custom designs for the speaker grill or a set design, I wouldn't mind having something like this.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i259/vortextwist/MPSGrill3.jpg

Ryma Mara

01-18-2007, 09:06 PM

What is the length of these new pommels gonna be?

I think an inch or so long pommel would be pritty nice.

Jedi Ranger

01-20-2007, 07:17 PM

Ryma Mara

01-22-2007, 02:18 PM

Any pommel designs thought of yet?

jjshumpert

01-23-2007, 01:00 AM

for visual reference take a luke mr pommel and speaker cover, put the speaker cover inside the pommel upside down so that looking at it from the bottom it makes a circular dip in the center of the pommel... now fill in the cutouts on the speaker grille and make new ones around the outside edge (the really thin ring that spaces the flat spot out) so when you look at it straight on you wouldnt see any holes at all. put a speaker on your new little plate with the basket facing out of the hilt and leave a space above it in the hilt for resonance...

tried this idea in a mr with a sound board, speaker, and different battery pack in the hilt and the blade end plugged up. i made a cap out of fiberglass in the design i wanted, from the outside its about a quarter inch deep and the speaker is mounted basket down on the top of it. i put another fiberglass plate in 1 inch above the speaker to close off that end of the hilt, then the batt. and sb before closing the blade end... you have to go thru the laundry room from where i was to get to the den where my wife was and she heard it, and told me that this setup had been added to the list with the qui gon of hilts that are not allowed in the house

TimeRender

02-14-2007, 12:59 AM

First I'd like to say hello to everyone on the forums. I've been lurking here for a while but haven't had anything significant to post. I'd also like to say that I'm really looking forward to the new modular speaker pommels. I'd like to chime in on the issue of the wire twisting. I can see two ways to deal with it that haven't been mentioned. First, you could use a headphone jack to connect the speaker to the sound card, allowing it to spin freely. However, a much simpler way of dealing with the twisted wires is just to twist it intentionally counterclockwise a few times before you screw on the pommel. Once it's screwed on, the wires will be completely untwisted. Keep us up to date on your progress, I know I'll be placing a large order just as soon as those new pommels are in.

Ryma Mara

02-14-2007, 05:32 AM

In my hilt I dont have a wire twisting problem. well my speaker just kinda sits in there with an old pice of an mr blade holder holding it in an dthe pommel pushes it in its place.

lol I have to compleatly disasemble my hlt just to change the batteries.switch is one of the last things to go in.

LordArgyll

02-14-2007, 07:06 AM

This is probably not an original idea, but what about some sort of speaker mount designed to fit the speakers Tim sells in the store, meant to fit in the heatsink recess between the MHS and the pommel? I've thought about trying to jury-rig something like this myself. Currently it sits inside a length of 1.25" PVC tube with the batteries and boards.

Firebird21

02-14-2007, 07:40 AM

With the pommel Tim made up for me you screw the MHS pommel onto the hilt and slide the Luke pommel onto that and it all holds the speaker in place too.

And if the Luke pommel is loose enough it will allow the speaker to spin inside it to help reduce tangling.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke15.jpg

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke16.jpg

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke14.jpg

The speaker isn't aligned in that pic because it wasn't secured properly in that pic, when it's done correctly it fit's perfectly.

As of right now I just have the pommel screwed onto some electrical tape, but when I get a chance to get back down to my friend's house I'll use his drill press to unstall a set screw.

The overall length of this setup is 1-5/16" not including the threads.

Obviously Tim, I like this set up very much and I think it might be a good seller to go with the Luke pommels. However, one thing I'd suggest doing is drilling out the center. I forgot to ask you to do that for me and we ended up using a wood lathe to do it... :?

Ryma Mara

02-14-2007, 08:08 AM

I really like the idea but Iam not exactly sure if I would have enought room, I need just over 1.5" of extra space so everythings not cramed in there. :(

Strydur

02-14-2007, 08:55 AM

What LA mentioned is what the plan is at this time. That makes a good resonating chamber between the speaker and the grille. I also had the mps pommel threads done shorter to allow for a bigger speaker mount. I hope to eventually have a battery pack/speaker combo holder.

supertrogdor

02-14-2007, 09:06 AM

It looks as though master Strydur is catering to ideas many of us have only entertained as a passing whim. Props to The Man
cheers

DACOTA

02-14-2007, 09:27 AM

Sounds great.I was wondering how to hold a speaker to a pommel with my own holes drilled in it.Now I know I can wait and get a pommel made just for that!

TimeRender

04-24-2007, 10:16 AM

Shinobi

04-24-2007, 01:24 PM

Any news on these yet? Last time I asked I was told to look for these and the undrilled handle pieces around the beginning of April. I'm still pretty excited about these and I hope at least a few other saber builders are as well.

I'm totally stoked about the new parts, and I can't wait to see what's being done with the MPS.

Any chance of some teasers Corbin or Stryder?

seanwill

04-24-2007, 05:49 PM

Maybe I missed it, but is there a plan to have the switch instead of speaker in the pommel, or is this strictly a speaker idea?

Ryma Mara

04-24-2007, 06:18 PM

Well it ws intended as for sound but I dont see a problem with putting a hole in the center of the grill for a switch to stick out and then take some tape or maybe a couple of orings and glue them togeather with the speaker smashed inbetween behingd the switch. I dont forsee a problem.

Strydur

04-24-2007, 06:40 PM

I have the first MPS body here. The first insert design will be here next week and I will put both on the site then.

vortextwist

04-24-2007, 06:45 PM

yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ravage179

04-24-2007, 06:48 PM

yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i think vortextwist just peed himself.... wait i did too!

I WANT I WANT I WANT!!!

Ryma Mara

04-24-2007, 06:54 PM

I have the first MPS body here. The first insert design will be here next week and I will put both on the site then.

Why am I all driping with goo?

Me want me want me want *runs off to cry cause he dont have*

Lord Maul

04-24-2007, 07:39 PM

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_drooling3.gif

SWEET!!!!!

tim, you da man!
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_bow.gif

DACOTA

04-25-2007, 09:41 AM

yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why am I all driping with goo?
Me want me want me want *runs off to cry cause he dont have*

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_drooling3.gifSWEET!!!!!

Dito!
Dito!
Dito! :D

Shinobi

04-25-2007, 01:24 PM

Firebird21

04-25-2007, 01:48 PM

Why am I all driping with goo?

http://ii-prod.marketlive.com/surlatable/images/en_US//local/products/detail/PC267090.jpg

jjshumpert

04-25-2007, 01:54 PM

dripping with goo... and here i thought this was a family friendly forum, shame on you ryma! :twisted:

Firebird21

04-25-2007, 01:57 PM

dripping with goo... and here i thought this was a family friendly forum, shame on you ryma! :twisted:

No, that's the goo that's holding his current pommel setup on... Yup, that's what he's talking about... Yup...

jjshumpert

04-25-2007, 02:01 PM

well im lmfao now fb, thanks brother i needed a good laugh today

Ravage179

04-25-2007, 04:32 PM

Why am I all driping with goo?

Me want me want me want *runs off to cry cause he dont have*

if im not mistaken thats a quote from Ghostbusters II

jjshumpert

04-25-2007, 04:59 PM

"vhy am i drippings with ooze" quoted from yanosh, ghostbusters 2, man i used to love that movie...

JadedMonk

04-25-2007, 05:00 PM

http://www.cognitivedissonant.com/graphics/peter_macnicol.jpg
Yessir, but you have to say it with the accent.

Ravage179

04-25-2007, 05:07 PM

i love that dude he was the bomb in dragonslayer!

jjshumpert

04-25-2007, 05:07 PM

i did my best, its a hard accent to type ya know :twisted:

vortextwist

04-25-2007, 05:59 PM

hehe, that guy is funny :lol:

Ryma Mara

04-25-2007, 08:44 PM

lol yeah....and yes we love new parts.

DACOTA

04-30-2007, 10:28 AM

So any idea on when we will get all the new pommels in so there are more than just two for sale?

Ryma Mara

04-30-2007, 09:17 PM

from what I understand they should be comming out soon. like real soon not sure on the number of how many styles but yeah.

Corbin_Das

05-01-2007, 01:13 PM

The MPS should be available very shortly. As for stand alone pommels, we're looking into different designs, including a pair that lock together, but are open to suggestions people have.

Any wishes, design wise?

I've heard pointed, cubed, slotted and O-ringed so far. If anyone wants to post drawings, that would allow people to say whether they like the particular design or not. I'll see about posting some of my drawings too.

Corbin

DACOTA

05-01-2007, 01:43 PM

This could be lock together but i thought of the cone pommel double style.Now it doesnt need to be this deeply cut it can be shallow so its stable and strong but this is just an idea of a solid double cone pommel.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/Pommeldesign.png

Corbin_Das

05-01-2007, 01:48 PM

DACOTA

05-01-2007, 02:05 PM

Yeah I got you on that I just threw this pic up for solid double or staff sabers.But I thought there might be a way to make this pommel detach in the middle.

Shinobi

05-01-2007, 03:23 PM

Hi Dacota
I'm not actually talking about pommels that are attached and just screw into the MHS. I'm talking about pommels that can stay attached to the grips, yet detach from each other to allow for two separate sabers without having to reattach a pommel or anything.
The tricky part is making the pommels match each other so that they look identical when separate.

Corbin

This is definitely something I would be interested in Corbin, I am planning on building a double buttered toast v2 powered saber this summer and one of my main issues would be how to make both sabers totally self contained when apart.

I've come up with a couple of ideas so i'll push some images your way sometime this week.

Marsupial

05-01-2007, 08:12 PM

If what corbin wants to do as for double-saber latching pommel attachment end up working, I'll have to do a double bladed saber. This promises to be the coolest thing out there.

It's from Corbin so I'm not surprised. Can't wait to hear about any development. :lol:

Strydur

05-01-2007, 11:28 PM

Me and Corbin have both come up with different ideas towards making a quick disconnect setup for quickly and easily breaking apart and reattaching two sabers. So far I am not happy with any of them. If anyone designs something that I like and use then I will build you the two sabers to go along with your quick connect pommel design.

DO NOT PM ME WITH IDEAS..post or E-mail please

Marsupial

05-02-2007, 09:51 AM

What I'd see for a double-saber quick release system would be using an identical shape on both sides and fit together snugly.
Both single-bladed sabers need to look natural and the combined sabers needs to be good looking too.

I am thinking about something that looks like Darth Maul's emitter, but in the middle of the saber - bars that crosses the 2 pommel area. Half stays with one saber, half stays with the other. All bars have springloaded bearing that goes in a recessed area of the other pommel section. If you have a total of 12 of those bars, you can have 6 on each sides. The bottom of the single-bladede pommel isn't flat but have something (6 bars) coming out. Together they look like a series of bar.

Various designs could be done around this concept.

here's a graphical representation of it.

http://images.yuku.com/image/png/eba25866b8edb6b3d2a0a0208619e6f3071962a_t.JPG (http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/eba25866b8edb6b3d2a0a0208619e6f3071962a.JPG)

The pommel elements could be replicated in the design of the whole saber, and the parts could be reused as grips or whatever cross your mind.
Of course, a bit of machining is necessary, but I think this can be considered as a base for developping a good system.

Ryma Mara

05-02-2007, 11:42 AM

if that could work the cost of that part would be astronomical

Strydur

05-02-2007, 12:44 PM

Thats a start to a very good idea.

vortextwist

05-02-2007, 01:00 PM

almost the same way an pnumatic air coupler would work.

Marsupial

05-02-2007, 01:16 PM

I'm happy you like Strydur. I've been fooling with various ideas for making a latching pommel system and so far this is the one I forsee would have the best look assembled as disassembled. You wouldn't want the connection system to look like a plug, and I know I'd want the 2 sabers to look similar.

if that could work the cost of that part would be astronomical
not very much more then an emitter with claws.

In fact, the pommel could be made to be used like an emitter, and the bars as claws. The pieces could then be sold for various purposes, and one could follow a specific look by taking the *same part* for emitter and pommel.
I start to see how I'd like my double bladed saber to look like.

Ryma Mara

05-02-2007, 01:19 PM

70$ give or take. now would that be for one pommel part or 2?

Marsupial

05-02-2007, 01:34 PM

TimeRender

05-02-2007, 01:35 PM

Why not use a bayonet latch instead? You would only need one spring and one moving part and it would hold more securely. I've drawn up a design.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet1.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet2.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet3.jpg

The first picture shows the entire unit, the second picture shows the spring tension piece and the third shows two bayonet clip pommels together.

Of course I show the latching mechanism in this design just as a proof of concept, the latch could be hidden completely from view in the final draft by only milling the groove half way through and by increasing the diameter of the tension plate.

Tenric Starkindler

05-02-2007, 03:03 PM

Tenric Starkindler

05-02-2007, 03:05 PM

fooled around with the idea... parts reusability could be interesting.

http://images.yuku.com/image/gif/6ba3586962fdeb2160cddfec03b331fca9475b8.gif

as for pricing, I don't see any latching system to be very cheap, particularly if its complex ennough to look good in both ways (twin or dual-blade)

The cheap alternative is the male-male adapter... a latching system would be la creme de la creme for a double bladed saber.

while I really like this idea a thought comes to mind.......
shouldn't the design of the double pommel be low profile so that when they are connected the joint would not interfere with the sabers use?
OF course if your idea were made low profile then my question would become moot...........

Tenric Starkindler

05-02-2007, 03:09 PM

Why not use a bayonet latch instead? You would only need one spring and one moving part and it would hold more securely. I've drawn up a design.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/bayonet1.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/bayonet2.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/bayonet3.jpg

The first picture shows the entire unit, the second picture shows the spring tension piece and the third shows two bayonet clip pommels together.

Of course I show the latching mechanism in this design just as a proof of concept, the latch could be hidden completely from view in the final draft by only milling the groove half way through and by increasing the diameter of the tension plate.

this looks like an idea I saw (did I mention it in a post myself: maybe: dunno) to make a blade attachment....
This could work nicely if it proved strong enough....

perhaps this could be adapted to the MPS as an insert?
That would allow for some more customization as different pommels copuld still be paired together??

TimeRender

05-02-2007, 05:56 PM

not bad ideas........

My son has the Electronic Robin bo-stick and loves to pretend its a double bladed saber. It has a male and female end and connects with a simple push button locking mechanism that looks easy to replicate and rather sturdy (especially if it were done in metal).
I do have pics, but my home PC is down and I do not have access to them...
I had thought it would make an easily adaptable system for the MHS.
Though the above two ideas are also very do-able.

Whatever comes from it........put me down for a set!

What makes Marsupial's design and my own different is that our designs don't have male or female ends. Both pommels are perfectly identical. Marsupial's design has a nicer look than mine, in my opinion anyway, but suffers in the fact that it requires 12 springs and ball bearings. That's a lot of moving parts. Your idea to combine the bayonet pommel with the MPS is wonderful. I will begin drawing immediately.

TimeRender

05-02-2007, 07:37 PM

Alright, here is the bayonet pommel married to the new MPS pommel.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet4.jpg

An exploded view shows all of the parts except for the spring.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet3-1.jpg

The base of the unit, shown in red, will fit inside the MPS pommel, grey, in very much the same way that the quick change LED holders do. The inside of this piece will have female threading. A spring is inserted followed by the tension plate, which is purple. The MPS pommel slides over top followed by the crown piece, shown in blue. The crown piece will have male threading that locks it into place with the red base. Now to see two pommels connected.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet1-1.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/bayonet2-1.jpg

Press the two pommels against each other, give it a quick twist in either direction, and the tension plate will lock them together. To separate, press the sabers together and give another quick twist. Let me know what you think.

Tenric Starkindler

05-02-2007, 07:41 PM

I'm sold.......though you don't have to impress or sell me.... :wink:

if this set up is strong enough it would be great!

Marsupial

05-02-2007, 07:54 PM

timerender, I agree with you that your concept isn't as appealing as my idea... which is why I'd like my idea to evolve in a workable final result. I know I would not buy a system that makes my saber look like a power plug.
In addition, if there's only 1/4 of an inch to hold everything together, remember its a 9inch hilt + 36inch blade so about 45 inch both sides... the centre holding everything together at 3 points... it wouldn't be sturdy ennough I'm affraid.... that's why I opted to something that goes further around the 2 sabers.

I'm thinking the same idea as my 12 bearing-lock-bars could be made with as little as 6 (3 on each sides). but I'm no mechanical engineer.

we could even reuse the existing parts such as the 3 claw MHS mount, but changing the claws.

instead of a complex bearing mecanism, low-profile springloaded thumbscrews could be used on one side of the "2-sided claws" (rendering the 2-sided claw reusable with no alterations as a grip, the latcher or a claw)

TimeRender

05-02-2007, 08:07 PM

Assuming you can solve the problem with having so many moving parts, I agree that most people would opt for your claw pommel. However, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and certainly not everyone is going to like the look of either of our designs. The blocky shape of mine does vaguely resemble the doorknob pommels on some of the movie sabers I think, while yours has a more Maul-ish feel. I admit that I am a bit worried about the strength of my fastener, although bayonet mounts can be made that are much sturdier than the one I hastily designed on the computer tonight. I'm worried about the strength of ball bearings too, since they can be pulled apart just as easily as they can be pushed together unless some sort of pushbutton lock is used. I'd like to hear more about your spring loaded thumbscrews. It sounds like it would hold fairly well at the expense of being able to quickly join and separate them.

Marsupial

05-02-2007, 08:53 PM

I think for a bayonet style connection to support the stress of a double-bladed duel, it would require to be like 1 to 2 inch deep. I'm certain its doable but wonder if we want to have those machined (and at what price)

I fully agree that beauty is subjective. And I like how you mention that mine looks maulish, Maul's emitter inspired me this concept of mine.

As for the spring loaded thumbscrews, those are something that Corbin came up while chatting a while ago. I think he got a source for those, but I don't.

Tenric Starkindler

05-02-2007, 09:04 PM

TimeRender

05-02-2007, 09:06 PM

All of the modular pieces are held together with about half an inch of threaded metal. While a bayonet mount may need more than the quarter inch I gave it, I doubt it would need any more than what the threads use. The mechanical weakness of my design is in the peg and slot. However, if it was designed with a flat wedge shaped peg rather than a simple round bar it would have just as much strength as the threaded sections do. I'm not terribly good with the CAD software I have on my computer, so I wasn't able to draw that up, but go look at some kitchen appliances and I'm sure you'll see exactly the kind of fastener I am talking about. I know my food processor, coffee pot, blender and spice mill all use them. I think with a capable engineer drawing the design, strength will not be an issue. The real issue of my design is the cost of milling out all of the details. That is something I simply won't know unless Tim gets a price quote on it.

TimeRender

05-02-2007, 09:08 PM

I cannot do a rendering of this idea, but....

using the bayonet method ,couldn't you re design them so that there were extended pommel cubes on the outside of the pommel. each would then fit together in much the same way, but when separated they would look much like a luke pommel.............

ALSO:
would it be feasible to marry both ideas into one unit?
the bayonet style could function as the primary lock and the "Claws" would give added support to the joint and increase the overall stress-load capacity?
though it sounds kinda like what Parks did when I say it that way...........

I think I see what you mean. I'll draw something up in the morning. It wouldn't be compatible with the MPS system, which by the way was a pretty good idea on your part, but overall it might be a better option to have a specialized pommel than a modular one. Thanks for the idea.

Marsupial

05-03-2007, 08:10 AM

I think I like the bayonet+claw idea, this might prove to be a good way to explore.

Timerender, you might be right about the thickness needed. We need to think there's 6 areas on your design that holds things together. If its sturdy ennough, it might work. Altough I'd make more then one wedge - the sturdiness of the threaded metal on the MHS comes from the fact there's several parallel threads holding it together all around - a single thread would break.

-> I might be wrong. Again, I'm no mechanical engineer.

DACOTA

05-03-2007, 08:58 AM

Im up for Timerenders idea. :D

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 09:25 AM

Mars is absolutely right. I slept on it and came to a similar conclusion. Using Tenric's idea, Marsupial's claws, and my bayonet mount, I think we can make exactly what Tim is looking for. I'm feeling a little under the weather at the moment, but I'll start drawing as soon as I feel a little less sick.

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 11:49 AM

Ok, I think I may have something that we can all agree on here. By using Marsupial's claw design I have strengthened the entire piece and made it more aesthetically pleasing. I realized that using a wedge shaped pin would be impossible. It would require the entire outside of one of the pieces to be milled rather than lathed. This would likely drive the price up well beyond what some of us pay for entire sabers, let alone a single pommel. However, the claws allowed me to increase the size of the pin. I'll mention more about this later. Overall, this new design should be much easier and less costly to produce than anything yet posted on the forum. Thanks again Marsupial and Tenric. Now onto the unveiling...

First an exploded view of all of the parts.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet1.jpg

Like my previous design, the spring and the tension plate fit inside the base. The base has male threading on both ends. The bottom screws onto the saber hilt, while the top will accept the pommel cap. The claws and the pins are attached by screws into six tapped holes around the cap.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet2.jpg

The claws have two holes drilled for mounting on the cap while the other end has a milled out groove that will lock it in place with a second pommel.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet3.jpg

The cap has six pairs of two holes drilled around its circumference. The holes are the same size for both the pins and the claw screws, simplifying the assembly. I do not know the exact dimensions of the Graflex style electrical pins, but they may be an option here.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet8.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet9.jpg

Here is the assembled pommel. The tension plate in the center could be made to stick out nearly as far as the claws do, but I found that to be unattractive so I opted for a lower profile.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet6.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet7.jpg

See? Not very pretty...

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet10.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonet11.jpg

Here you see two pommels attached to each other. By necessity there is a small gap between them. This gap is equal to 2x the length of the L section in the grooves on the claws. To make the assembly more secure, this section should be longer. To make the gap shorter, this section should also be shorter. Some tests might be needed to find an appropriate balance, but I believe a larger gap is a reasonable price to pay for more stability and strength. You may also notice that the claws don't quite seem to line up correctly. I mistakenly designed them about .0625 inch too short. This can be corrected and will not be a problem on a finished pommel.

All of the particulars of the design are still up in the air, which is why I didn't include any dimensions. Still, I think this shows a fairly close approximation of what a finished piece could look like. I'm looking forward to hearing some feedback.

Parts list:
Double male threaded base, closed on bottom
Spring
Tension plate
Female threaded pommel cap with 12 tapped holes
3 claws with two holes and two milled grooves each
6 threaded pins, possibly short Graflex style
6 screws

Marsupial

05-03-2007, 01:40 PM

Sadly, I don't have any CAD software available, but I like where this is going.

supertrogdor

05-03-2007, 02:39 PM

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=45
forgive the crappy paint drawing...
So the purple line is the spring loaded section, and the blue on the left is the button, blue on the right is the hole the button fits into, and the right hand peice is just large enough to fit snugly. if we had about an inch to an inch and a half fitting together it should be sturdy enough for double saber dualing and the release is just a simple button push.
you sometimes see this type of clip on furnature legs to adjust from kid size to bigger people size. What if you had one maybe on either side, the mounting would be simple and the button is likely enough(if sized to fit right) to keep stability for your saber, even if you had two for extra stability, say one on either side. This could be one of the more stable and fastest releasing ideas... Thoughts? Does the picture make sense?

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 03:03 PM

Tenric Starkindler

05-03-2007, 05:24 PM

my only comment on TimeRenders latest is a concern for the seeming high profile of the claws. It look good, looks strong, but would it be duel-able? would the claws interfere with two handed use?
from what little staff experience i have I would want the middle section to be as smooth as possible...........

vortextwist

05-03-2007, 05:37 PM

this is true. I love the way the maul saber is. but it is goin to be extremly difficult to have 2 identicle saber connect to make one. There are other easy ways to do quick connect but they will not look the same at each end. which in my opinion would not bother me.

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 05:47 PM

Yes, we are talking about a 2 inch section of hilt that will have a 2 inch outer diameter. Unfortunately there isn't much of a way around this. I've got two more designs that could work, one using prongs like a power cord and one using a ring-locking mechanism. The first is not very pretty, doesn't hold terribly well, but would be cheap to make, quick to connect and disconnect, and wouldn't interfere at all with dueling. The second has an interesting if not attractive look to it, holds almost as well as the bayonet claws, but would be slow to disconnect and probably more costly to produce. The claw pieces could be about half as thick, which would create a 2 inch section that is only 1.75 inches OD, but again wouldn't look as nice. I can draw a few things up if you would like to see, but I really feel that the claws here are the best option.

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 06:22 PM

As promised, the first of the designs I mentioned, the 3 prong pommel... Don't say I didn't warn you...

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/Prongconnecter.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/Prongconnecter2.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/ProngConnecter3.jpg

This uses the MPS which can be seen in the center of the exploded view. Below it is a chamber that sets into place like the LED mounts that Tim sells. The inside of this piece is threaded to lock it into place with the cap. Inside the chamber are three simple sheets of thin metal, bent slightly to catch on ridges on the prongs. This works just like an oversized headphone jack. The cap has six holes on the top, three are threaded to accept the round prongs. I didn't show this in the design, but the prongs should be shaped similarly to a headphone jack or the Graflex pins, only llonger and with a larger diameter. I think this design is otherwise pretty self explanatory.

I told you you wouldn't like it...

I started sketching my ring design and realized it would cost a small fortune and wouldn't work very well at all. I'm not wasting my time drawing it up. I'll show you a revised claw bayonet next, but it may take me another hour. Cheers!

Lord Maul

05-03-2007, 06:43 PM

you would need magnates in there to keep it together, but other than that, it looks feasible.

AND, those prongs would need to be crazy strong to resist breakage

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 06:50 PM

No Maul, you would not need magnets to hold it together, and generally speaking three metal rods 1/8 inch in diameter would be too much for an ordinary person to break.

vortextwist

05-03-2007, 07:10 PM

I fail to see how any of that holds 2 sabers together. I have an Idea but i don't do autocad or ms paint, or any photo stuff. maybe I can' explain it later. too many bud lights

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 07:11 PM

Alright, last design for the night. This one looks weird and I don't know how much it will cost for the factory to cut these out of metal tube, because they do need to be round to work, but it is simple and provides a grip surface mostly free of any troublesome parts. The section here is about 2.25 inches long and only 1.75 OD.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/WeirdBayonet1.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/WeirdBayonet2.jpg

As you can see, there are three odd key-shaped panels mounted to the sides of the pommel. The center of the pommel houses a tension plate like several of my other designs.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/WeirdBayonet3.jpg

The base, spring, and tension plate are the same as my claw bayonet design. The cap is different in that it only needs to be drilled out to accept the screws that hold the key plates in place.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/WeirdBayonet4.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Other%20Pommels/WeirdBayonet5.jpg

Here you see two pommels together. The key plates interlock to create three large smooth panels, each with a small window cutout in the very center. This should securely lock the pommels together without getting in the way of any fancy double bladed saber maneuvers.

The key plates are a bit large, and could probably be reduced perhaps by as much as half. However they are and will always be kinda ugly when not joined together. The difficulty of manufacturing this piece is also a major concern. My money is still on the claw-bayonet mount, but I figured I would post whatever possible solutions I came up with. Feedback is still welcome.

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 07:13 PM

I fail to see how any of that holds 2 sabers together. I have an Idea but i don't do autocad or ms paint, or any photo stuff. maybe I can' explain it later. too many bud lights

If you're referring to the 3-pronged pommel, it holds two sabers together using the very same principle that holds your earphones into your ipod or radio or whatever. If you are referring to the other designs I would just suggest you look more closely and read the descriptions. Any of these would work, but they all have their own drawbacks.

vortextwist

05-03-2007, 07:19 PM

sorry I guess I should have been more specific. I like the first disigns of the "claws". but the 3 pronged one I can't see working very well. eventually the stuff inside will loosen up and fly apart. I have an idea but both ends will not look the same. but quickly taken apart

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 07:31 PM

I don't see how it could "fly apart" as you say, but loosening is a possibility. Thankfully, the solution is simple. If the metal spring holding the pins bends, bend it back. The whole thing can be opened up.

Now there are three types of forces that can pull apart or break a saber joined this way. The first is rotational bending. In case you don't know what I mean, imagine the motion of unscrewing a jar of peanut butter. Three thick metal pins will hold easily against this type of force. Next is lateral bending. Again, if you don't know what I mean, imagine breaking a pencil in half with your hands. Here is where things get a little dicier. a long metal rod with a diameter of 1/8th of an inch gripped at both ends can be bent with relative ease. However, if you were to try bending the same rod with both of your hands on the center you would find the job much more difficult. The 3-prong saber takes advantage of this lack of leverage. The three 1/8 prongs will not likely bend under this stress. Finally there is tensional stress. Imagine pulling on a rubber band until it breaks. This is where the 3-prong saber fails, intentionally. During a duel, with both hands firmly planted on the saber, there should be very little tension across the hilt. However, if you intensionally try to pull the pieces apart you will find they disconnect quite easily. The prongs only need to be able to withstand slightly more tensional stress than the weight of one of the two sabers. Three prongs locked like headphone jacks should provide that much support.

Maybe.

Tenric Starkindler

05-03-2007, 07:36 PM

TimeRender

05-03-2007, 07:44 PM

Ravage179

05-03-2007, 08:33 PM

I was almost thinking the same idea for the last one i would use a small set screw to hold it in place (seeing how most of us already carry allen wrenches for the blade anyway) . its probably the best idea, might be an idea to have it milled from steel just for strength

Tenric Starkindler

05-03-2007, 08:39 PM

http://be300.org/forum/uploads/post-20-1178246068.jpg

my illustrating skills are terrible but I had this thought...
I hope it is clear enough to determine if it might be feasible......

there are details that would need to be worked out of course, but it is the general idea I wanted to suggest.

That's clever. How is the spring mounted in the cover and what exactly is the latching mechanism?

hadn't thought that far ahead yet.....got a few rough ideas, but no time to pursue them right now.

1) bayonet latching system with a spring in the female end to place pressure on the joint and keep it from slipping.

2) male end perhaps to have an anchored spring wound around inner connector plug. pull back to put tension on the spring and hold in place with a small bearing? (actually if it simply pushed back against the other pommel it would add to the strength of the bond.

just off the top of my head though details need to be worked out.

each could be made to screw into the end of a hilt......

Marsupial

05-03-2007, 09:51 PM

I know if we end up with a design where saber A and saber B aren't identical I won't buy the system.

I also know that if the system we design takes me too much time to mount or dismount or if it takes hardware I won't buy it.

if we're to make such a pommel system, it needs be sturdy, elegant in both combined and separate position and not require time / hardware to use... otherwise, I fail to see the point - I can have a cheaper male-male adapter and 2 extra pommels...

Tenric Starkindler

05-03-2007, 10:39 PM

I dont think they would need to be identical, just both look stylish enough...

supertrogdor

05-04-2007, 07:27 AM

This is a different variety of my previosly posted idea, it would allow a flush connection, i think the primary benifit of this type of coupling is the simplicity of manufacturing... It gives a simple design, that is easy to make which keeps costs down, however what ends up getting used is up to Tim, so rather than do something other than describe my submission, i will leave the assessing to Tim and Corbin.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=46
If mirror matching is important and people want thier sabers to be a perfect match on both sides, adding another non-functioning button(s) would also be an easily resolved issue.

TimeRender

05-04-2007, 08:43 AM

TimeRender

05-04-2007, 01:41 PM

I was thinking about Tenric's concern that the claw pommel might be too high profile for dueling, and decided to take another look at the design. I realized that without anything in the picture to give a sense of scale the claws may seem thicker than they really were, so I took some time to render my own TCSS saber with the pommel I designed. It looks a little less obtrusive to me now. I'd like to know what everyone else thinks.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/DoubleBladedPrometheanwClawBayonet.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonetPromethean.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Claw%20Bayonet%20Pommel/ClawBayonetPromethean2.jpg

Marsupial

05-04-2007, 02:07 PM

I never tought of it as a problem... its about the same thickness as most grip material used, but its metal.

TR: the whole thing together looks kinda great. I'd somehow add some similar grip in the forward section of the saber to balance look.

TimeRender

05-04-2007, 02:12 PM

Thanks Mars. I actually don't intend to make a saber to match this one so I won't be adding any more claws to the design. It was just a demonstration of scale. It may also be a moot point because I think I just found an even better way to do it. My next idea technically is a male/female coupler, but it is impossible to distinguish between them. I'm very excited, so I'll try to crank out another sketch here in an hour or two.

TimeRender

05-04-2007, 04:05 PM

Ok, after this design I think I'll be ready to officially call it quits. This design incorporates the MPS pommel, has an outer diameter of 1.5 inches just like all of the other MHS parts, requires no buttons, and connects and disconnects very quickly. I give you my final pommel design...

Well... for today anyway...

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB1.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB2.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB3.jpg

It's pretty easy to see how this works. Line the screw up to the hole, press together and turn. What you cannot see is that there is actually a lock inside the hole that prevents the saber from twisting apart accidentally. The exploded view will help demonstrate how this works.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB4.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB5.jpg

Like previous designs, this pommel begins with a hollow base section that slides into the MPS pommel in much the same way that the LED mounts are held in place by the blade holders. Inside this base is a spring and a metal rod that will apply pressure to the sabers, keeping them locked into place. The base has female threading at the top to secure the cap in place. The MPS pommel is attached next followed by the cap, which has male threading. While it would be possible to skip using the MPS altogether, using it allows the wielder of the saber to fine-tune the angle at which his two sabers attach. The cap has two drilled and tapped holes in it which will secure the screws that hold the locking plates in place. Picture 5 shows how the locking plates work. The screw head fits through a hole on all three plates, can rotate around the axis of the pommel only on the third plate, then is pushed back up into the second plate by the spring, where it can not be rotated in either direction. To release, press the two sabers together again and turn.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB6.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Final%20Bayonet%20Pommel/FinalB7.jpg

These pictures show the two ends joined. Again, there will be a gap between the two sabers of about 1/16 of an inch. The sabers can be held in place more securely by increasing the thickness of the second locking plate. This will, however, increase the size of the gap. Another way to make the design more secure is to increase the depth of the base and the length of the tension bar on one of the two pommels, and to use a bar without a spring at all on the second pommel. While technically this would make one pommel male and the other female, the difference would be invisible. The tension bar on the second pommel could actually fit inside the first pommel by 1/2 inch or more, decreasing the risk of bending or breakage at the seam.

Once again, let me know what you think of the design. Any feedback is welcome.

vortextwist

05-04-2007, 06:38 PM

Tenric Starkindler

05-04-2007, 09:27 PM

I have no time to do a sketch....but I was thinking that you could eliminate the gap if you recessed the female end a bit, used a spring in side (like the end of a flashlight) and used a flat plate that would give the illusion of a solid bottom to the female end.

the idea is that when yoiu push the two together and rotate to lock the spring would push up on the plate, which would push up on the male joint and add tension to the coupling making it stronger, and allowing for the gap elimination.......
at least that's the theory.....

Ryma Mara

05-05-2007, 09:41 AM

I dont know Iam not sure this quick disconect is gonna be sturdy enought for full on dueling.

persionally I think a cost effective idea should be thought of first cause I knwo for a fact that half the folks that I talk to about this place and are really intrested in what goes on here are not gonna afford an 80$ thats just for disconnecting 2 sabers.

persionally I think its an effort in futality to have something that matches one another, be a strong connection, and cost effective.

Jonitus

05-05-2007, 09:53 AM

I think this quick disconnect is an example of:

GOOD

QUICK

CHEAP

...pick any two. We can't have all three.

Ryma Mara

05-05-2007, 10:00 AM

good and cheap but halfway quick.

ok think of it like this.

You got your 2 pommels on your 2 saber hilts.

They got a milled groove of some sort in both pommels.
Then you get a center insert made to lock into both pommels.

The inster has a spring into it so when you go to push in the insert thru the pommel your 1/4 turn and release and its locked.

I think it will be easyer/cheaper to make it this way with a center chuck the 2 pommels connect to then you still have the identicalness of the pommels and a way to connect them both.

I would attempt to mspaint tis one up but I dont think its gonna happen so your guys are gonna have to decypher it on your own.

Tenric Starkindler

05-05-2007, 11:18 AM

I think it would work with the exisitng idesas as long as the inserted piecs was secure and long enough to provide the tensional and torsional strength needed.

I think some of the ideas (two pommels and few if any extra parts) would remain cheap enough to be affordable.....
especially considering the fact that if it is part of the MPS (or can be screwed to the end of two exisitng sabers) then (for example) I could make two sabers as funds allowed, enjoy then, and then just get the dual pommels and add them on as I could afford to.

granted I am poor and $$ is a big issue but Tim seems to try to keep his prices reasonable and I am sure whatever system arises would also be reasonable.

pockets

05-05-2007, 02:07 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/pockets_empty/pocketsidea.jpg

this is my idea, i dont know how easily understood it is, but its basically like a 2 tiered pommel with the smaller pieces interlocking, one fits inside the other and they are secured with a milled groove/peg idea. they would look identical separated, except one would have a slightly larger 2nd tier, but they would still look exactly the same, and when its locked together you have a good, secure, and quick connection. I'm not sure how much machine costs would be for this system, but it is fairly simple, one pipe cut in half, screw in pegs installed, 2 smaller diameter pipes each with milled grooves. and theoretically all the pieces to each pommel could be threaded and screw together.

EDIT:

I just drew up a quick cross section too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/pockets_empty/pocketsidea2.jpg

sorry for all the poor sketches, they were done quickly in paint

TimeRender

05-05-2007, 02:16 PM

Well as far as strength is concerned, any of my designs that use the tension plate are going to be duel worthy. The tension plate is what provides all of the support against bending and breaking, and it is 1/2 inch of solid aluminum. I doubt anyone here can break that by hand. Unless you plan to play tug of war with your saber, tensional strength isn't really a major concern. Anything that can withstand just a few pounds of tensional stress will work just fine. Cost is the big issue here, because as Jonitus points out you can usually only have two of the three criteria. Honestly I don't have a clue what it would cost to make the claw bayonet pommels, but I can actually give a fair estimate on the last design I submitted. By comparing the parts required to build it to the cost of parts already sold in the shop, I would estimate that system would cost about $60 per pommel. Pricey yes, but not too much more expensive than a few of the fancier emitters.

Hey Ryma, the idea you came up with for a pommel sounds a lot like the last one I submitted. At any rate, you ought to go ahead and draw it up and show us what you're thinking of. Won't hurt to try, and Tim might like it enough to add it to the store.

One last word on cost... I know I certainly wouldn't pay a ridiculous amount of money just to be able to quickly connect and disconnect two sabers. It just isn't a feature that I care much about. Then again, I was more than happy to empty out my wallet to buy Erv's electronics, whereas a lot of people are perfectly content to run a simple led off of a battery with nothing more than a resistor. Bottom line is this: there is already an affordable and very strong option for joining two sabers. It is called the M/M connector. Just as Erv's board is the buttered toast of saber FX, a quick connect pommel would be the top of the line feature for double bladed saber owners. I'm not saying that cost shouldn't be a concern, it just shouldn't be the first concern, and certainly not the only one.

Ryma Mara

05-06-2007, 11:18 AM

Its liek the notch/peg design but its a center connector. so the 2 pommels would be identical and the center connector is got a spring and lock.

I would say to keep them from comming apart during dueling make it so you have to turn both saber the same direction to unlock it.

Iam not very good at free drawing. Iam ok at altering an existing picture.

bubbalew

05-08-2007, 06:30 AM

Hi, I'm new here but had an idea for the latching system. How about a peg and slot system. Each half would have 3 pegs with enlarged heads and 3 slots that allow the peg head through and then rotate to secure. The pegs could be threaded and extend insde the pommel to serve as mounting locations for spring clips that catch the peg heads so the pieces cannot rotate on thier own. When latched you would have a continuos hilt. When seperated you would have 2 pommels with 3 pegs protruding and three slots. My 2 cents worth. Jack

Strydur

05-09-2007, 12:56 PM

I noticed today that with some slight modification the obi/anakin and vader speaker grilles will work in the MPS. Here are some pics.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/anakin.jpg

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader.jpg

vortextwist

05-09-2007, 01:20 PM

Me like 8)

jjshumpert

05-09-2007, 01:28 PM

thats a good idea for reusing old parts!

987654321a

05-09-2007, 04:05 PM

then its a good thing im saved my old vader mr speaker grill. now i can just get the mps pommel.

Novastar

05-09-2007, 07:17 PM

Seriously. The main reason I never bought really ANY MHS pommels... was simply because you could not mount a speaker in there without having to tear into inches of aluminum... and I don't have anything to do anything like that.

Only tool I have for drilling/cutting... is a Li-Ion powered hand drill. Cool, huh? :D

Still... not a lathe.

I would be glad to see "interlocking" parts that don't require "screwing".

"Screwing" usually... uh... screws over your saber if you need to take it apart often for repairs or whatever reason.

987654321a

05-09-2007, 07:25 PM

well guys i just purchased an mps with a new blade, get ready for lord sequentius' v2

Ryma Mara

05-09-2007, 08:04 PM

what was v1?

987654321a

05-09-2007, 09:34 PM

v1 was an old lightsaber that was made from stolen plans from ben kenobis book of lightsaber making. yes, i was a jedi then and he taught me, but vader did not kill him, I did, i commanded vader to kill ben and get rid of the rebellion scum so the galaxy would be free of enemies. I then brough darth maul back to life and gave him cyborg legs. lol

ok lmao the v1 was the same mhs i have had for 2 years now, the v2 is that same mhs but it is now polished and has a soon to be mps pommel on it.

Ryma Mara

05-09-2007, 11:52 PM

I do not remember your mhs

987654321a

05-10-2007, 03:03 PM

here is v1 when i just got it
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/hydralics51/dsc00252rv8.jpg

here is v1 when it was blue
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/hydralics51/DSC00345.jpg

here is also a video of v1
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/hydralics51/th_MOV00462.jpg (http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/hydralics51/?action=view&current=MOV00462.flv)

v1 used to be red but i changed it to green.

Ryma Mara

05-10-2007, 05:04 PM

Ah kool

Great use of the basic parts. I liked that pommel. I wonder how the mps version will turn out.

vortextwist

06-04-2007, 05:57 PM

when are we getting more mps stuff?

Corbin_Das

06-04-2007, 07:18 PM

Hi all.
I was just chatting with Countdown and he gave me a link to his MHS with a MPS pommel on it. I just thought I'd share it here:

Video (http://youtube.com/watch?v=NZ-llmvukD4)

Corbin

vortextwist

06-04-2007, 07:22 PM

that's cool, waitin for one that look like the luke or obi pommel. lol

hey CD what kind of camera did you use?

Jay-gon Jinn

06-04-2007, 09:25 PM

That saber sounded familiar....just like mine, actually! I like the chipped paint, it gives it a used and weathered look. Very cool! That's a good video, BTW.

Corbin_Das

06-04-2007, 09:33 PM

I didn't video that. It was Countdown. No clue what camera was used.

The cubed style pommels should be available soon.

vortextwist

06-05-2007, 01:47 AM

sorry I was asking him CD, didn't realize Corbin Das was the same. lol

987654321a

06-05-2007, 06:05 PM

the camera is a sony miniDV, but i feel really bad and sick right now so ill check and tell you later.

Corbin_Das

06-13-2007, 08:10 PM

Hi again
Strydur and I have been discussing the idea of having a PMS insert that allows for a D-ring swivel on the bottom. It would look something like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/Dring3D.jpg

Would there be an interest?

Corbin

vortextwist

06-13-2007, 08:14 PM

would it be possible to have sound also? Maybe holes around the ouside edge of the swivle insert.

Corbin_Das

06-13-2007, 08:35 PM

would it be possible to have sound also? Maybe holes around the ouside edge of the swivel insert.

I don't see why not.

Novastar

06-13-2007, 09:39 PM

Another good thing to remember about sound is that it is PROBABLY ideal if the pommel has side holes.

In fact, it's excellent for sound if the first 1 or 2 inches on the hilt up from the pommel... ALSO have holes to let the sound out.

Otherwise, the sound primarily "shoots downward" out of the pommel. Which is (usually) not ideal for people who want to hear the sound.

MHS sections that have side holes would probably be a VERY awesome tool for those hoping for more enhanced sound.

Sometimes--you can DOUBLE the feel of your sound by adding these holes.

Resonance! Such a great thing. :)

Corbin_Das

06-13-2007, 10:02 PM

MHS sections that have side holes would probably be a VERY awesome tool for those hoping for more enhanced sound.

Ask and you will receive...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/pommel2.jpg

Corbin

SilentBob501

06-13-2007, 10:11 PM

Hey! isnt that my design?

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/semmerman/sabersketch2.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/semmerman/customsaber2.jpg

Corbin_Das

06-13-2007, 10:14 PM

I guess it IS similar, only this isn't machined into the body of the saber. It's on the removable pommel. Same effect of letting the sound out though.

Hasid Lafre

06-13-2007, 10:24 PM

An adaptor where you screw the pommel into a SHS(sound hilt system) but can hold the speaker below the holes so its got the sound flowing all around.

Hell I would buy one. that looks sweet. Maybe not as ressed like that mabye sticking out further(larger od).

Tenric Starkindler

06-13-2007, 10:57 PM

OOooohhhhh :shock: :shock:
me like LOTS !!!! :lol: :roll:

Corbin_Das

06-13-2007, 11:02 PM

I agree with Novastar that holes above the speaker as well as below help quite a bit. His sabers I saw at C4 had this and it made a big difference.

Corbin

Novastar

06-14-2007, 12:50 AM

I hand-drilled all those holes into my goofy sink tube hilts.

Even still--surprisingly, you want quite a few holes all over the place for the bottom 2" of the saber... at the least.

I experimented with my green and red Flange v3 versions... and the green saber has more holes. It sounds louder and the sound "emanates" better.

So, the moral is... let the sound BE FREE!!! :)

It's true that on MOST speaker setups--you want a "directional" thing. But in the case of a saber... well, you want pretty much an OMNI-directional setup.

Uh... unless you LIKE having your sound shoot toward your feet most of the time. Unimpressive. Most un-impressive. ;)

Corin Shadowblayde

06-14-2007, 09:23 AM

these look really cool. when are we going to see them in the shop?

Corbin_Das

06-14-2007, 11:48 AM

these look really cool. when are we going to see them in the shop?

It's just a preliminary idea at this point. It's just posted to see if folks like it. There's no date set for these to be made yet.

Corbin

DACOTA

06-14-2007, 01:40 PM

You got my vote,I love the ideas,refined and progressing. :D :wink:

Corin Shadowblayde

06-14-2007, 01:57 PM

personally the ideas i've seen so far look really good. keep it up.

Marsupial

06-14-2007, 02:13 PM

I'd like a sealed pommel with D-Ring like you showed, plus sidevents for speakers (and speakermounts) I think we'd have a better sound that way for our applications. (100% with nova on that one)

Note: the sidemounts can easily be used for those doing a dual bladed saber, which is a great add-on to the MHS collection.

Novastar

06-14-2007, 03:30 PM

Would you like fries with that?

.
.
.
.
.
.

:D

Onli-Won Kanomi

06-15-2007, 12:12 AM

Howabout a pommel with a switch hole on the back face as well as those sound vents on the side...that way the switch would be out of the way when dueling and one could still have sound from the side.

Novastar

06-15-2007, 12:18 AM

hehhe, how funny, Tim did that for me as a great gesture when building the "dual" sabers for BOP I.

Pommel switches... pretty cool... :)

DACOTA

06-15-2007, 11:51 AM

I wonder how do you stand your saber up with a pommel switch?Maybe just use a cap that could could screw on the exposed threads of tims switch.

Corbin_Das

06-15-2007, 09:42 PM

Unless it was recessed, I don't think you WOULD be able to stand your saber up on end. I don't do that with mine anyway.

Novastar

06-16-2007, 12:07 AM

You can.

I added some "rubber cane ends" to my pommel-activated MHS sabers... they are similar to the part Ultra used for the initiate sabers.

I drilled out a hole, and sort of "beveled" the inner edges of the rubber. It works PERFECTLY for hilt protection (from a dropped saber), and hides the button very well. You can drop these sabers on cement.

One of them was used in BOP II... by Cael Nordiun (padawan from BOP I, now Jedi Knight).

DACOTA

06-17-2007, 04:39 PM

That works. :shock:

Corbin_Das

08-29-2007, 05:23 PM

Two new Modular Pommels:

Number 5
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/941.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-941-32-mps-pommel-style-5.aspx)

Number 2
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/943.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-943-32-mps-pommel-style-2.aspx)

Click on either picture to get more info.

987654321a

08-29-2007, 05:34 PM

I just ordered new parts, including the second mps pommel :)

Jedibum

08-29-2007, 05:49 PM

Just ordered some new parts, including both new pommels. That takes me up to $300 spent at the store this month. $700 for the entire summer. I just can't help it! The new pommels look great guys! Keep up the awesome work and I'll keep spending!

Hasid Lafre

08-30-2007, 04:28 AM

Wow JB what do you do for a living?

DACOTA

08-30-2007, 03:04 PM

This was probably talked on already but what if your saber wont include sound?I mean mine do but lets say they dont,then would you just put in a speaker grid anyway or could we have a solid plate that goes inside the pommels to close them up for those that might not have sound?
Just a side thought.

Hasid Lafre

08-30-2007, 04:17 PM

How about a disk thats got a design etched into it?

Jedibum

08-30-2007, 05:56 PM

LOL, I'm a bartender. I make enough to put myself through graduate school and pay my bills. But, about a year ago I recieved a very large inheritance from an Uncle that passed away. That's my play money! And luckily for Tim, I have a lot of it!!! LOL

ArkaiHalon

08-30-2007, 06:01 PM

sorry for the loss of your Uncle.

Corbin_Das

08-30-2007, 06:21 PM

We're in the process of having some solid inserts quoted as well as ones for a recharge port.

xwingband

08-30-2007, 07:41 PM

We're in the process of having some solid inserts quoted as well as ones for a recharge port.

[Mr. Burns]Excellent... *twiddles hands* [/Mr. Burns]

Now if we get a MHS part that allows sound to be emitted through the sides... yum!

Corbin_Das

08-30-2007, 09:22 PM

Now if we get a MHS part that allows sound to be emitted through the sides... yum!

I designed a combination crystal chamber/resonation chamber a while back that would do exactly that. It was essentially a 2" double female extension with holes or slots in the sides.

Corbin

Hasid Lafre

08-31-2007, 05:30 AM

That would be cool

DACOTA

08-31-2007, 10:19 AM

Man you guys are on top of things,great job Tim and Corbin!

Barmic Rin

08-31-2007, 10:24 AM

Fighting.... my...credit...card......

Sod's law is that they'll be sold out when I place my order. I do need both of those, one for my personal saber, one for my Sazen one.
Just waiting for a guy a work to get back to about the saber he wants, then i'll be coughing up the cash for a decent sized order.

<Begins praying to whichever God will stop Tim from selling out>

ArkaiHalon

09-02-2007, 06:31 AM

thismust be Murphy's law weekend.

I order over a 100 bucks in parts on Friday. then Saturday Tim posts the labor day sale.
So I go order MORE parts ( I can't resist a free coffee mug).
Then today he posts Pommel 3 which is SWEEETNESS,
I'm so bummed.
https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/product/medium/944_3_.jpg

vortextwist

09-02-2007, 06:55 AM

man i can't wait till I have enough money to get another mhs.

DACOTA

09-02-2007, 03:27 PM

So is this the long waited for luke pommel?I love it! :shock: :D

Tenric Starkindler

09-06-2007, 03:44 PM

I forget in all the discussion......... have blank inserts been discussed or proposed?
That way you can order the pommel of your choice and use a solid insert until such time as you need sound?

Corbin_Das

09-06-2007, 03:52 PM

Yup!
We're getting solid MPS plates, as well as recharge port version quoted right now. Here are the recharge port versions in aluminum and one in delrin:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/MPSrecharge.jpg

Note, That's a MPS #1 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-905-32-mps-pommel-style-1.aspx) with a Luke FX pommel slid over it and secured in place. Now that we have the MPS #3 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-944-32-mps-pommel-style-3.aspx), you can get this look much easier.

Corbin

Tenric Starkindler

09-06-2007, 05:39 PM

ANy idea how soon?
I was going to place an order, but want the recharge port plate option.....

Also:
With the new MPS #3 will there be an appropriate D-ring and method of attachment (for those who want the Luke Look)?

ArkaiHalon

09-06-2007, 05:58 PM

there was a pretty nice looking d ring attachment earlier in the thread.

Corbin_Das

09-06-2007, 08:44 PM

Tenric,
Seeing as how they aren't even made yet, I suspect it will be a little bit. I just have a couple of the prototypes now.

there was a pretty nice looking d ring attachment earlier in the thread.

You mean this one?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/Dring3D.jpg

I agree, it's pretty slick. No idea if/when it's going to be made though.

Corbin

ArkaiHalon

09-07-2007, 04:53 AM

that's the one alright. has definite possibilites.

DACOTA

09-07-2007, 09:06 AM

I'm loving the recharge ort insert,that would take alot of stress off of having to drill an extra hole and wire through the hilt.

vortextwist

09-07-2007, 12:35 PM

it wouldn't be that hard to have the D ring with a bolt on aplication and use it in the recharge port slug. it's just finding the right D ring

Corbin_Das

09-07-2007, 01:19 PM

it wouldn't be that hard to have the D ring with a bolt on aplication and use it in the recharge port slug. it's just finding the right D ring

Exactly. In fact, that's kinda the plan I'm thinking. Of course, you wouldn't be able to use the recharge port then since the bolt holding the D-ring stud would be in its place.

One thing I noticed when installing the recharge port with this type setup...

Have the recharge port arranged where it sticks out the back of the saber a little more than it needs to. Make sure the nut is removed. Then screw on your pommel and make sure you get the port to allign with the hole. After it gets in the hole and the pommel is screwed down snug, then put the retaining nut in place over the threads. If the port isn't sticking through enough, I like to take an exacto knife or other pointy object and catch in between the threads and pull the port through enough to get the nut to be able to screw down a little. Once it's on the threads, you can tightenen it down the rest of the way without problem.

Corbin