Requesting a part/services list check for my first project, please

[Gilraen Took]

I've already got a 4XAAA battery pack(I had it made a few weeks ago, when the shop still wasn't stocking them :()

Main parts:

36" 1" Corbin show blade, double wrapped
blade holder #12 with heat sink
hilt style #4-I'm getting a box put in, should I get a standard style hole, or the guarded hole?
pommel #7
build your own seoul LED kit with green led and all other options standard.

services:
installation for box #9
drill and tap hole service. I know I need one of these for my covertec clip and one for my blade retention screw, correct? Which end do you guys prefer your covertecs on? I'm still undecided between putting it up top 1/4 of a turn or so away from my box or toward the pommel.

Screws/extra parts:
SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button (I just prefer the look to the switch that comes with the build your own electronics kit.)
kill plug style 2(when it's back in stock)
2.1 mm jack
8/32 1/2" thumb screw
4-40 button head screw(for the activation box)
8/32" 1/4" socket head(for the covertec button)
covertec clip
machined covertec button
2 4-40 nylon screws(the shop's video showed that you need those to hold the LED in place, correct? Or should I go for the heat tape instead?)
1 foot of heat shrink
15 black o-rings(yeah, yeah, I know that some people hate the way they look, but I don't mind it, and would rather have more grip. I just wish the store was still selling the green ones too. Ah well.)

Did I miss anything there? Should I get some extra black and red wire to have some more room to solder? If so, which wire is that on the store?

Thank you for looking!

[Silver Serpent]

You still need a pommel insert and a MPS clip to hold it in place. The nylon screws are no longer necessary with the new type of blade holders. Get the thermal tape instead.

If you're getting the box 9 installed in the same location as the switch hole on hilt 4, then either option shouldn't be a problem. I don't know if the hilt bodies are all drilled, or if Tim has some without switch holes.

Extra wire is always a good thing. Check the last section in the store titled "Wiring" and look for the 26 gauge wire. It comes in a variety of colors.

[Gilraen Took]

Oops! Thank you, I had completely forgotten about the clip and pommel insert. Is a foot extra of black and a foot extra of red wire enough, or should I get a bit more of it?

Thank you again :)

[Kevin Starwaster]

Oops! Thank you, I had completely forgotten about the clip and pommel insert. Is a foot extra of black and a foot extra of red wire enough, or should I get a bit more of it?

Thank you again :)

One caveat about the clip if you weren't aware: they're easy to put in with a needle nose pliers but make sure that they're the pliers with the fine point as they have to be able to fit in the holes on the clip securely enough to be able to bend the clip. My pliers weren't up to the task and my clip went flying across the room. (I still haven't found it so my pommel insert is held in place with some heavy 12 gauge wire...)

As for wire, you can NEVER have too much wire and Tim charges reasonable prices for it. Before I started my project I think I grabbed 4 feet of each color of 26 ga wire and wire with quick connectors. Then later I bought some more 22 ga and some more wire with JST connectors because the other connectors were too big. The amount I've paid in wiring is a drop in the bucket compared to the rest of the saber and it'll all be used eventually.... (IOW it's cheap enough that you should get more than you'll actually need unless you think this is the only saber you'll ever build and you just want to get enough to finish this one)