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Dark Ruyn
02-23-2012, 05:03 AM
Hi, i'm a french customer and i want to make my first light saber, so i have read many tutorials on your forums but i'm a beginner and i hope to have your help for the good choice of the parts of the light saber.

For begin i want to use :
- Petit Crouton
- Power Xtender
- 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ Port Style 2
- USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ cable
- 1 red power LED
- 2 red accent LEDs (for illuminate a red cristal)
- 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch


For the blade :
- Red Luxeon Rebel Star
- Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
- 1" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long
- Bullet shaped tip for 1" thick walled blades
- Mirrored adhesive disc for Stip1thick

For the sound i have think to use the "MHS speaker and battery holder" but i don't know if the the speaker of this battery holder is better or the same of the "2w bass speaker"

and for the battery pack, like it is mentionned in the owner manual of the "Petit Crouton" i have think to use 2 "AW Protected 18650 3100mAh"

For the design of the saber i will wait to have all the electronics part before.

i know i need some resistors for the LEDs, can you help me to choose the good resistance to make my saber and tell me if the choice of part is allright.


(Sorry if my english is not perfect ^_^)

Hope to have response of you soon !

Rafalema
02-23-2012, 07:39 AM
If you will be using just a Red Rebel LED, then why the power Xtender?

Dark Ruyn
02-23-2012, 08:08 AM
It is for the flash on clash, just need one rebel LED isn't it ?

Silver Serpent
02-23-2012, 08:32 AM
The rebel LED will not do Flash on Clash. You will need a multi-die LED like the LEDEngin 10w.

Vlad Doon
02-23-2012, 08:33 AM
Welcome here Ruyn,

As for the resistor questions in general, just go here http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx
but before have a look at your PC manual.

If I'm not mistaken, the 2w speaker is better than the premium one mounted in the holder. But you can easily build your own combo.

As silver serpent says, if you want for example a green flash on clash with a blue blade, you'll need a multi-die led, i.e an LED with different "colours".

The descriptions of the items in the store section are very helpful as well as the browser here that'll help and lead you through the sometimes difficult art of sabercrafting :p

Que la force soit avec toi, mon ami gaulois ;)

Dark Ruyn
02-23-2012, 08:47 AM
Thanks for your help Silver Serpent so i will use the LEDEngin like you said ! i think to use a deep red LEDengine and use a white flash on clash effect is it the good choice or i need to use the RGBW LEDengin ?

And thanks for your link Vlad :) it is very helpfull, and i will use the 2W speaker if it is better !

so for the choice of blade (1" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long) is it the good choice for an enter/exit of the blade ?


(Que la Force soit avec toi aussi Vlad =D)

Silver Serpent
02-23-2012, 08:57 AM
I like the trans white blades. They're a really nice choice. I use thin walled since they're lighter, but I don't do a lot of heavy dueling.

If you've never soldered a LEDEngin before, be sure you read this post:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13703-LEDengin-5w-and-10W-info-and-wiring-guide....for-noobs

They can be really aggravating if you don't follow Fender's advice.

Dark Ruyn
02-23-2012, 09:04 AM
yes i'm reading his post now and finally i will use a deep red LEDengin and use the Full Powah system than Flash on clash, and for the blade a thin blade is lighter you said ? i will use that so maybe the "1" Thin walled Trans White PolyC 40" long" with "Mirrored adhesive disc for Stip1thin" and "Bullet shaped tip for 1" thin walled blades" (so for the blade i don't need to add blade film isn't it ?)

Silver Serpent
02-23-2012, 09:13 AM
Full Powah or FoC with a LEDEngin is going to be about the same amount of work. It'll just come down to personal preference. Brighter blade, or flashing effects when you hit things. Your choice isn't set in stone, even after you've built the saber. You can always rebuild it later if you change your mind.

Thin walled is lighter. Thick walled is heavier, but more durable. Not that you're likely to break the thin walled blades, unless you're wailing on the side of a brick wall or something. Again, this is personal preference.

You don't *need* to add blade film to the trans white blades, but many people do. It will help the blade light up more evenly from base to tip. I haven't used blade film myself, but that's because I'm just too lazy to fiddle with it. :)