1st Saber Prject Layout Concept. Let me know what you think

[DemonBunnyman]

So i have been toying around with the builder for a few years is seems. have always wanted to build a saber, but didnt like any of the stock hilts and lengths they get to when its all added together. So here is the concept i am looking to build.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicath.jpg

[Jenny]

The switches protrude down into the section where they're mounted. You may be better off having your PLI mounted 90 degrees, rather than 180, from the switches.

[DemonBunnyman]

I figured there maybe some space issues. So i figured i would run a smaller battery pack to solve the space issues or the PLI n the switches. Will have to see when i get the parts ordered.
Still havent got the electronics figured out yet. But as everything i will be a work in progress.

[Sunrider]

Don't worry about the pommel structure being weak, it is not important. Bigger holes there will give better sound. With 2 of the grip sections space will become a problem. Put more thought into the inside verses the outside before committing to a design.

[Batosai]

with my first saber I used two of those gripped extensions and I really got into space problems.
I had to put the soundboard in the front and the batterypack (2 14500s) in the back section, but I only used one AV-style switch and 2 accent leds in the hilt.
The size-difference between the normal extensions and the gripped extensions doesn't sound that bad, but it is. I was only able to put one layer of electrical tape around the batterypack, otherwise it would have been too thick to fit inside.
If you are able to put everything inside the hilt, I think you will be happy with the look of the gripped extensions, but one additional problem is, that the grooves (if you use 2 extensions) are not in one line :( (as you see on my saber http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13626-first-post-and-first-saber-misfortune-star)

BR bato

[DemonBunnyman]

Hmm well i wonder if i can have them index the center grooved section so the V grooves line up. will take some further research. I currently have it set as a 3" section could easily enough goto a 4" but the design is pretty set. I will probally pusue the custom indexing option. I have fiddled around with this layout for the last year or two.

Now batteries I was figuring goin with less but higher output to acheive the same efffect. I want an obdisian soundboard just need to caluculate what size of batt i need to run the board and a beefy speaker and LED.

Anyone here worked with the obsidian boards?


Builder says length is 13.85" still long for my tastes i actually want it under 12" but dont see the options without massive cutting.

[jfrink22]

IF your going with an Obsidian what is the second button for? There aren't any AUX sounds or extra uses for a second button that I'm aware of. I used one of them on a small saber but have switched over to a PC which I like way better. The PC is also far easier to use when you have wires running to different locations for battery and all of the other good stuff.

[DemonBunnyman]

Wasnt aware of the needs for the Obsidian board. but i do like the looks of the double switch. So maybe a dummy or possibly some internal pommel lighting meh lol we will see.

[Weaver]

That is not fair.

I was looking at a double-grip design, myself, but would be bugged by a misalignment of the two sections. Any ideas on how to combat this? I finally settled on a design I truly loved; I don't want it marred by an asymmetrical arrangement.

[Kevin Starwaster]

with my first saber I used two of those gripped extensions and I really got into space problems.
I had to put the soundboard in the front and the batterypack (2 14500s) in the back section, but I only used one AV-style switch and 2 accent leds in the hilt.
The size-difference between the normal extensions and the gripped extensions doesn't sound that bad, but it is. I was only able to put one layer of electrical tape around the batterypack, otherwise it would have been too thick to fit inside.
If you are able to put everything inside the hilt, I think you will be happy with the look of the gripped extensions, but one additional problem is, that the grooves (if you use 2 extensions) are not in one line :( (as you see on my saber http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13626-first-post-and-first-saber-misfortune-star)

BR bato

Any possibility that the alignment issue was because of the use of trim rings? Like the OP and BlessedWrath, I'm also planning a design that uses the same extensions.

Or do you have any other thoughts on avoiding the problem based on your work with the part?

[Batosai]

even without the trim rings I had the alignment issue, but I don't know if the issue got worse with the trim rings.
what I could think of is giving the possibility that the grip can be screwed a few millimeter further or less far. maybe a very very thin trimring could work.

[DemonBunnyman]

Well i emailed about indexing the threading to match, still waiting a response. but i did put some small thought into spacer rings to potentially solve alignment issues.

[Sunrider]

Alignment of parts is tricky. Mostly because threads/parts break in and can go out of alignment.

[tachikoma1]

Don't worry about the pommel structure being weak, it is not important. Bigger holes there will give better sound. With 2 of the grip sections space will become a problem. Put more thought into the inside verses the outside before committing to a design.

DITTO!! I painted myself into a corner with my first design. Didn't think ahead. My switch configuration was right in the way of where the PC sound card, and batteries were "supposed" to go. Had to compromise and wound up with very sloppy and problematic wiring as a result.

[tachikoma1]

That is not fair.

I was looking at a double-grip design, myself, but would be bugged by a misalignment of the two sections. Any ideas on how to combat this? I finally settled on a design I truly loved; I don't want it marred by an asymmetrical arrangement.

I see Tim is offering "blank" section pieces now. Perhaps use two of those and request a custom machining job with the grooves just the way you want."

[DemonBunnyman]

Nice I will def look into that since I want 2 done in the same style

[DemonBunnyman]

Well i ordered 4 of the windowed pommels today 2 in matte black 2 regular. Plans 2 build 2 pairs of sabers.

[Weaver]

I wonder if it's possible to simply ask for a longer grip section, with the center 4" left smooth. It would be a single piece section, but with room for a box mount. Solves all problems.

[DemonBunnyman]

well il get these done then probally the emitters then tackle the the center bits.

[Kevin Starwaster]

I wonder if it's possible to simply ask for a longer grip section, with the center 4" left smooth. It would be a single piece section, but with room for a box mount. Solves all problems.

Any chance of an accompanying diagram? Having some trouble visualizing. (hope we're not hijacking demonbunnyman's thread here...)

[Weaver]

Did it in MHS Builder. Just imagine that, instead of three separate pieces, the hilt is comprised of one central pipe, fitted with a pommel and emitter.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii81/BlessedWrath/SaberBuilder_render.png

[DemonBunnyman]

yah but way to big i maybe have my sections milled from blanks so i can get shorter ones. i really want a saber under 10"

[Kevin Starwaster]

Did it in MHS Builder. Just imagine that, instead of three separate pieces, the hilt is comprised of one central pipe, fitted with a pommel and emitter.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii81/BlessedWrath/SaberBuilder_render.png

Still have smaller diameter in the ribbed areas so as not to weaken the metalz

[DemonBunnyman]

Im not worried about the space just means I use less batteries. Not sure if it will weaken the structure I.assume its thick enough but ill ask

[cardcollector]

Structure is something you never have to worry about using MHS parts. Unless you add a male Adapter with your parts.

That hilt will be quite long, so If you are fine with that, cool deal. You will have plenty of room for pretty much anything you want in there...

[DemonBunnyman]

I just photoshopped mine shorter and will post the change tonight

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicath2.jpg

[Garrek]

Sorry to have to tell you, but I'm afraid you can't remove the half inch section.
That is for the female threading which is to large to fit under the ribbed section.

As to the switch, I'm sure the groves can be matched to start after the box, but the box still has to be 1/2 an inch from the edge of the extension, threading again.

Yes I know threading is such a pain.

[DemonBunnyman]

We will see what tim says if he can do it.

[Kevin Starwaster]

Some additional feedback on the alignment issue. I think this will happen everytime you reverse that piece from front to back due to threading differences between front/back at least on the double female. it would probably require a change in how that piece is crafted.

that said, the use of chassis disk 1 between the two hilt parts in the back lined them up perfectly for me. if threading and milling is consistent from piece to piece then that should work for you. of course YMMV.

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicathRevamp.jpg

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/photobucket-4100-1331088558983.jpg

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/photobucket-589-1334280651273.jpg

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/photobucket-18685-1334280607422.jpg

[DemonBunnyman]

1st saber concept evolved into two sabers one a two hander and one a single. I will post moore pix as i get the electronics in and the ano done.

[Xanatos1986]

I like the cone pommel mod... and are you using a PC for the saber with the grooved exstensions?

[DemonBunnyman]

Long saber will be getting an igniter with tru color and the small saber will be getting a FX converted board.

Im thinking about turning the cone pommel into a O/D ring style with a larger brass ring through it

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/photobucket-8974-1336021798675.jpg

1 step closer hehe

[madmaxx]

ooooh i really want to try one of those igniter set ups... they specs sound cool

[DemonBunnyman]

yah im pretty excited to get it rolling need to get a few more lil things done on my saber

[Darth Ryo]

thanks for the pic!
I plan using an Igniter too on my first build, really nice features indeed.

Altho I'm still working on the design right now, I see it won't be so far from your long saber, hence a couple questions:
- would you mind showing how you'll fit the igniter inside the grooved sections (or is it going to fit in the middle 3" section?), that's my first point of concern.
- what kind of power source will you use? I'd like a couple of 18650s, but I'm not familiar yet with the size of one of these versus the size of MHS parts.

Thanks!

[DemonBunnyman]

thanks for the pic!
I plan using an Igniter too on my first build, really nice features indeed.

Altho I'm still working on the design right now, I see it won't be so far from your long saber, hence a couple questions:
- would you mind showing how you'll fit the igniter inside the grooved sections (or is it going to fit in the middle 3" section?), that's my first point of concern.
- what kind of power source will you use? I'd like a couple of 18650s, but I'm not familiar yet with the size of one of these versus the size of MHS parts.

Thanks!

Well the saber im putting everthing into is pretty long, 14 inches.
that said i plan to use delrin chasis disks to mount the board near the top of the saber with an intergrated recharge port.
then switch plate then battery pack and speaker unit.
Igniter with accents ( prob 4 of them )
7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack
Lighted Ring AV with ball momentary
2w Prem Speaker and delrin speaker mount
10w LEDENGIN RGBW
Note: ribbed section is kind of tight so we will see how initial plans go for fitting
I still neeed to make some shrouds for the top and bottom, a recent revamp based off a new idea.
Mock pics will be posted in the next few days i think

[DemonBunnyman]

So i have been pondering some accent shrouding to the saber project, would like to take opinions.
recharge port is above main switch along with PLI mounted into grenade grip.
I my add a kill key down my the pommel.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicathShroud.jpg

[Evilpancreas]

I really like the look of the saber. Too bad its probably going to cost you an arm and a leg to make. At least it will be worth it

[TuxedoCartman]

Since you're asking for opinions: personally, I think the power level meter is too much. But then again, I'm not a fan of ever cutting slots or holes into grenade or ribbed sections unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary to fit a something essential, like a switch. Beyond that, I like v.1 better. V.2 looks like two sabers awkwardly joined in the middle, and lacks a certain flow; v.1 doesn't have that problem, for some reason (though I would still urge you to consider integrating the shroud a bit more with the grenade sections, and not just keeping it on the flat bits).

[DemonBunnyman]

thought about some connected sections but my main purpose was to hide the joint lines.my inital plan was to mount the PLI opposite the main switch, then was thinking 90* off the main switch.
Seemed cleaner an easier to mount it all inline.

[ARKM]

V2 all the way.

[DemonBunnyman]

Digging that too, after looking at some of ARKM's builds i have possibly moved back to a dual speaker setup by adding sound holes in each ribbed section.
Side mounting the screws to conceal them more

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicathShroudnew.jpg

[Darth Ryo]

+1 for the V2 version. Looking good so far :)

I like the idea of a double speaker setup, which is also my plan. However I wonder how it would sound with "tiny looking" holes in the ribbed sections.
I also like the PLI idea, yet I would have put it at the other side of the switch area in the middle section as originaly planned (since I guess that the ribbed upper section will be where you actually grab your saber).

Since you have enough room, maybe the newly added 7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack could be an option over the 7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack?

(Oh and really noob question, what program do you use to design your saber? these images look great)

[Kevin Starwaster]

thanks for the pic!
I plan using an Igniter too on my first build, really nice features indeed.

Altho I'm still working on the design right now, I see it won't be so far from your long saber, hence a couple questions:
- would you mind showing how you'll fit the igniter inside the grooved sections (or is it going to fit in the middle 3" section?), that's my first point of concern.
- what kind of power source will you use? I'd like a couple of 18650s, but I'm not familiar yet with the size of one of these versus the size of MHS parts.

Thanks!

i have the same basic design (except for pommel / blade holder) and I ended up using a pair of 18350s so that I could keep the batteries entirely in the back half and my PC in the front. With 18650s you're going to have to either put 1 batt in each ribbed section and the sound board in the middle under the switches... the new PC would fit in there but the older one (mine) would require relocation of the sensors and choke.

A better battery solution would be the new 14650s or 18500s that Tim now stocks.

[DemonBunnyman]

Hmm yah i wanted to keep the back half for the speakers and half the battery running the batts under the switch and the sound board and LED in the top of the hilt.

[Kevin Starwaster]

Hmm yah i wanted to keep the back half for the speakers and half the battery running the batts under the switch and the sound board and LED in the top of the hilt.

Not under the switch... not even the 14500 I don't think.

[DemonBunnyman]

We will see i need to finish the shrouds 1st order chassis disks then powder coating then install lol

[Evilpancreas]

Is the blade color going to be blue?

[DemonBunnyman]

Primary yes probally 2-3 shades of blue since im installing an ignighter Porballly one green and one purple and a white also

[DemonBunnyman]

So a little pondering and some shroud revamp. Let me know what shourd version you guys like.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicathShroudv4.jpg

[Darth Ryo]

I'd say that I prefer this last V3 shroud :)
It looks like it will be harder to produce tho (can't imagine the time it'll take to make those thin parallel links hehe).

I have no idea how it would feel when holding the saber, but it looks better (just my taste).

[MandoJoe]

If 'twere me, I'd take the V3 style, and just make the extra spiky bits a little less spiky. Like, the bottom of the "top" shroud, the piece that fits around your recharge port, I'd mirror that in all four "ends" of the shroud. It's spiky, but not so much that I'd worry about it catching on things. Like my clothes...or my flesh....

But that's just me. I still totally dig the V3.

[DemonBunnyman]

Yes but front half or back half I'm leaning toward shroud link 2

[MandoJoe]

That's what I meant to say. Definitely link 2. That way you've still got the shapes in place and it flows well, but not the pointy bits to worry about.

[DemonBunnyman]

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/onachtaicathShroudv4B.jpg
With identical shroud 2

[MandoJoe]

Love it! Love it love it love it. This is, of course, your saber, and I'm loathe to tell you how to build it, but "MAKE THAT SABER RIGHT NOW!!!!".

[DemonBunnyman]

will prob have tim cut the 1st shrouds and this new batch n see how they look in person

[nartules]

The 1st design looked okay, but man, it looks like a sic looking hilt with the addition of those shrouds.

[Darth Ryo]

Oh right, I didn't pay attention to those pointy ends, but it sure looks safer with that last design ;)

[DemonBunnyman]

Lil more progress Shrouds came in this week.
Popped the switch in to see if i liked the look now i need to decide on the anodizing and i may add a small plate or rubber sheet behind the switch plate.
Plus i still need to drill mounting holes for the shrouds and drill the hole for the Single LED PLI i found :) hehe

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/20130720_022751_zps35dd988d.jpg (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/demonbunnyman/media/20130720_022751_zps35dd988d.jpg.html)
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/demonbunnyman/20130720_022548_zps8f5b62ee.jpg (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/demonbunnyman/media/20130720_022548_zps8f5b62ee.jpg.html)

[amwolf]

Cooooooooool... That's wicked looking!

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Very Sithy!

[DemonBunnyman]

Sith No, conceptually this is for my Jedi Battlemaster Character.

Jedi Battlemaster(this is close to the WEG definition)

Not to be confused with the Jedi Instructors (who teach students in the ways of the Force), the Jedi Battlemaster solely instructs students in the way of lightsaber combat. Jedi Battlemasters not only need considerably advanced skill with the lightsaber, but also must be masters of a Lightsaber Form.
While nearly all Jedi train in lightsaber combat, the Jedi Battlemasters make using the deadly blades an art form. In fact some of the attack styles and defence patterns invented by past Jedi Battlemasters eventually became integrated into standard lightsaber combat training.

Jedi Battlemasters see combat as a last resort but prepare to be the best when time comes to take up arms in the defence of the light side. Battlemasters make excellent military commanders, front-line soldiers, and special operations team members. Some Battlemasters were focused on brute force and head-on attack styles; others preferred more subtle manoeuvring before making a surprise assault. The Battlemaster was calm and collected in combat, never letting his emotions override his rational thinking. Battlemasters attacked with precision and confidence, and always knew exactly when to fight, where, and when to stop.
Accordingly, the title of Battlemaster is bestowed to a rare few; generally only one Battlemaster represents each Temple or Academy within the Order. A successor is usually chosen after the current battlemaster’s' retirement or death.


Jedi Battlemaster (Knight)
Force-users trained in the Jedi tradition, characters of this Prestige Class combine physical training with mastery of the Force. Jedi Battlemasters concentrate almost exclusively on battle prowess, defense, lightsaber combat, unarmed combat training, and physical activities. If Jedi Guardians are the defenders of the Republic, Jedi Battlemasters are the warriors, protecting the Republic and the Order from all dangers. The road of the Battlemaster is never easy, as combat experts are more readily tempted by the Dark Side of the Force. Many Jedi Battlemasters take up not one, but two lightsabers in battle, to lethal effect. Still others eschew the use of all weapons, in favor of hand to hand combat as a means of controlling the deadly power at their fingertips more securely.
All Jedi Battlemasters journey into the galaxy at large to further their own knowledge, to seek perfection in martial prowess, and to help those in need. Their undertaking is a most serious one. For them even mundane missions are considered to be personal tests. Jedi Battlemasters walk a razor edge between dark and light. Most surviving Jedi Battlemasters follow the Light Side, but many who seek the field of battle become Darksiders and use the Force for evil or selfish intent. Those imbued with the light side refrain from using the Force for every task, preferring to find other solutions and save the Force for when it is needed. Those who succumb to the Dark Side use every advantage, wielding the Force against challenges as a soldier would use a blaster to destroy a stingfly.
The Jedi Battlemaster strength flows from the Force, granting the Jedi Battlemaster special powers. The Jedi seeking to become a Battlemaster usually first masters the ability to feel the living Force in the world within them, as typified by the Control Feat. Constitution and Dexterity as the most important attributes for the Jedi Battlemaster, followed by Strength.
A Jedi Battlemaster typically starts out as a Student/Padawan attached to a higher-ranking Jedi Knight or Jedi Master. The Jedi Battlemaster finds that the Control powers come more easily to him or her, and this character has a driving need to use the Force to help the people of the galaxy. A Jedi Battlemaster has a deep connection to his or her mentor and the Jedi Order, but often operates with only tangential contact with either Master or Order.