Wiring diagram help

[Jonitus]

Just when I thought I was out of business, an offer "I couldn't refuse" was placed before me. I am in need of help from an electronics "guru" here, however.

Can someone help me out with a digram that has the following:

Corbin's driver board

MR sound board

Corbin's Power Level Indicator

Force Resonator (small vibrating motor)

Recharge port with LED indicator (for using NiMH batteries)

It's kind of a tall order, but could someone help me out? I get lost in the diagram just after connecting Corbin's driver to the MR sound board.

Thanks!

[xwingband]

The resonator and PLI are easy... the recharge port, on only when charging I assume?

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[Jonitus]

For the LED? Yes, it need be lit only when plugged in and the charger active.

[james3]

Cool! I think we can bang this out right quick.

...Woman! where's my work pad?!

EDIT- OK dinner is done, kids are in bed, and I can get this knocked out for ya now.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

Thanks, y'all...I appreciate it a bunch.

[Jonitus]

If it proves difficult to make everythign work with one switch, two would be fine. The first switch could activate the PLI and resonator, as though the saber was being "armed", leaving the second switch to power the LED and sound.

[james3]

Sorry I was playing in chat Jon, what size battery and led for the recharger are you puttin in.

I am trying to do this in a step-by-step method so it should go smooth for you.

It is one of those things where I am having to slow myself down to do this[;)][B)]

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

I'm thinking a green LED for the indicator of the saber being armed, and a red LED for the saber being plugged in for charging.

For batteries, I am wanting to use 5 NiMH cells at 2500mAh each.

[james3]

A green led in addition to the pli? What I have been playing with is using one switch, basicly a DPDT so that one side activates the pli and resonator while the Corbin board/Soundcard is on it's own pathway. It's using the same switch as an interrupter (like a lightswitch) and an activator (typical pushbutton) I am guessing that you are getting Corbin's Latching board?

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

I did get the driver board in latching format. Talking with Corbin himself, he said that a single switch might prove difficult, so I thought two switches would work fine. One switch would power the PLI and force resonator, with a green LED to show the saber as "armed". The remaining switch would power the driver board and MR sound board.

The red LED would only serve to indicate the saner as plugged in when the batteries are bing charged. This obviously will require a zenier diode and resistor.

[xwingband]

Oh, so the green is really an add-on. I think I have a one-switch with a DPDT here that'll work. I was just about to add the recharge port and LED. I'd have think for the Green LED though...

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[xwingband]

I think this will work. I took the idea Tim posted for the Hasbro/Corbin setup so I'm hoping it would all work. If you stil want it I could add in the "armed" LED, but it seems you added that more because of the second switch than because it fit the design.

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/2429/lotsocorbinstuffhl3.jpg

If any of you see issues with it, let me know so I can work it out or scrap it.

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[james3]

xwing that is much nicer then what I was scrapping down. does the corbin board have a common ground for activation? If so then you nailed it pretty good.

Pretty much one side does the boards and the other side does the pli/led/resonator.

EDIT-Xwing just slap the led in line with the resonator[;)]

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[xwingband]

I was going by Tim's where the Hasbro and Corbin's shares a ground so I'm hoping it works with an MR. I haven't tried this myself but it makes sense.

Yeah, I'll slap in the LED and resistor later if Jonitus says it's needed. You are right though that I could just splice it into the PLI or Resonator.

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[Strydur]

You can use a SPST switch if you use the output of the sound module to switch on corbins driver.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

[Jonitus]

If you use the SPST, using the MR to switch on Corbin's driver, do you still retain the "power up" effect of Corbin's board?

Yeah, the green LED is totally superfluous and serves no true function (so it can go "bye-bye"), but I really do want to have this set up so one switch arms the saber and activates the PLI and resonator, then a second switch activates the saber itself, sound and Luxeon.

I know...why two switches when one will work? Well, if using a DPDT for all the functions, wouldn't chaning from "armed" to "active" remove power from the "armed" side of the switch (meaning the PLI would be unlit) when the Luxeon and sound is on?

I'm getting confused. Can someone explain it to me like you would to a layman?

[james3]

Sorry bud, I get excited when we start talkin setups that are more then a resistor and a switch[:D]

If what you really want is one switch to "activate" and one switch to "ignite" then two standard switches of what ever design would do you right and from there I we could just wire diagram two setups off of one batt pack.

If you would like to have just one switch on the saber but want it to do everything that is pretty easy to do as well. You could also use a multi-position switch to actually have it "activate" in position one and then go to position two which could actually be setup so that position one and two are both active.

I am sorry if I was rambeling and getting this issue confusing. you could use a dpst switch meaning that there is on and off but there are two isolated set of terminals so that one set feeds the power to your pli group and the other is a trigger to activate the boards.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[xwingband]

What I posted would make everything start with the one push. Tim is correct that you could use a SPST. This would be easier with the switches he has that feature pigtails. If it was just poles to solder to you'd probably need to add them as you'd be soldering 4 seperate devices to those two poles (8 wires to two poles[:0]). Which is why even though it's more confusing I'd like the DPDT since it's one switch to one pole.

You could easily retain the two switch operation by splitting the DPDT into two SPDT's. This may be undersirable as nothing would stop you from turning on the sound and driver seperatly from the PLI and Resonator out of order. To have the "safety" switch that must be pushed first you'd have to have a modified setup of Corbin's Safety + PLI and Resonator.

I can look at that later also. I have classes in a bit.[:)]

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[Jonitus]

*Jonitus gets a glazed look in his eyes and drool begins to drip from the corner of his mouth*

...huh?

Yeah, I hadn't thought about turnign stuff on out of order. That would be kind of embarassing, wouldn't it? I suppose the single switch method wouldn't be too bad, thinking about having to be conscious of what order things get turned on. Of course, there is the safety trigger idea, but that ads yet another element to an already complex (IMHO) electronics assortment for a saber.

Let's go with the single switch idea. I like the idea of one switch position activating the PLI-resonator group and the next position activating the driver and sound while still leaving power to the PLI and resonator. It may sound silly, but I imagine it as though one switch position activates the "power-cell" (PLI) and gets the "field generator" (resonator) spinning in the saber, while the next position acivates the magnetic containment field and channels energy throught eh crystals to extend the blade (driver board and sound). Savvy?

Would the switch in question be a SPDT, SPST, DPDT or DPST? I'd like to know so I can start scouting for a switch at the local RadioShack or similar electronics goodie store.

You guys are great for helping me out on this.

[james3]

OOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!![^][^][^][^][^]


A Jack Sparrow reference.

Dude you are alright in my book for sure[:D][^]

I will link you some switches....

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

I'm still fighting the drooling over here, but let me see if I understand:

A SPDT would allow me to control two circuits. In position one, everythign is off. In position two, the PLI and resonator is active. In position three, the whole shebang is active. Yes?

A DPDT would allow me to control two circuits. In position one, everything is off. In position two, the PLI and resonator is active. In position three, everythign is active. Yes? Why use one versus the other?

Now, if using a SPDT switch, how does that work with a pushbutton switch? Push down once to activate the PLI and resonator, push down again to activate everything and push down yet again to shut everythign off?

[xwingband]

It's a little different from what you describe. Think about their meanings... a SPDT mean you have a single pull (one push of the switch) and you throw two circuits (sharing the common ground). A DPDT exists because sometimes you can't share a ground and must isolate them. Since I can use two common grounds on there I'm actually activating four circuits with two throws.

For a push button style switch there isn't much to say for the double throw... it really isn't any differnt from a SPDT except you get the extra poles to work from.

Now for a slide or rocker switch lots of possibilities can come. This is where the poles are nice and you can have what you describe. Depending on the switch you could have it as one position turns on the PLI and Resonator then the rest is turned on in the last position.

What I was mentioning for Corbin's safety is that to turn it on you must have activated the safety first. This would make it so you can't accidentally turn it on. There are plenty of poles left on corbin's diagram so your desired arm then activate it idea might be possible. A rocker or slide switch would be much better to get it done with one switch.

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[Jonitus]

My head is gonna asplode from all the choices. The customer is being quite vague about how she wants it done, telling me only "I don't care, just so long as everything works". Gee, she's so helpful. Good thing I stand to profit from this fiasco.

I understand a bit more now about the switches. A pushbutton, regardless of how small, might look out of place on this saber, so perhaps a slide or rocker would be best.

I still want two separate circuits, but honestly, which do you think would be more well received and give a better effect...safety circuit arming the PLI and Resonator then a separate circuit to turn the rest on, two independent circuits that must be turned on in the correct order, or a single switch with multiple positions? Personally, I lean towards the safety circuit/power circuit idea or the single switch with multiple positions, but I have digressed. In terms of aesthetic cleanliness, a single switch would be better..

<font color="red">Okay, that settles it...lets go with a single switch, most likely a slide switch that has multiple positions controlling the circuits. How would that diagram look?</font id="red"> <font color="red"> I'm thinking first position forward arms the saber, second position forward turns everything on, and the position all the way back towards the user turns everything off. Sound reasonable?</font id="red">

All I know is what I want it to do...not how best to go about it.

[james3]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Jonitus

<font color="red">Okay, that settles it...lets go with a single switch, most likely a slide switch that has multiple positions controlling the circuits. How would that diagram look?</font id="red"> <font color="red"> I'm thinking first position forward arms the saber, second position forward turns everything on, and the position all the way back towards the user turns everything off. Sound reasonable?</font id="red">

All I know is what I want it to do...not how best to go about it.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Good call, I am working on the same setup but using a rgb led so that one up is blue and two up is red ala hasbro color changer. I need to finish fussin at Comcast but I will draw that up.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jedi Ranger]

Hey, someone else with the same plans/desires, but lacking the electronic know-how! I want to build a saber with all those same parts, but have the PLI and resonator on all the time. From the sounds of things, that's what will happen here. Am I correct?

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[james3]

JR do you mean on all the time when the saber is on or all the time as in if there are batteries it hums.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

My goal is to have the PLI and resonator activate when the switch is pushed forward to the first position from "OFF". When the switch is pushed to the second position from "OFF", the PLI and resonator are still active, but so are the sound and the LED driver board. The "OFF" position cuts power to everything, so the saber is "dead".

[james3]

Jon I got your setup, I was just tryin to figure out if JR's is the same or not.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by james3

Jon I got your setup, I was just tryin to figure out if JR's is the same or not.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I was replying to JR to make sure he knew which way I was going. I should've quoted. My bad.

[Jedi Ranger]

*LOL* I can see the misunderstanding. Poor wording on my part.

Yup, it looks like Jonitus will have the same set-up that I want to build, also.

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[james3]

Ok guys, I found some rotary switches that would work but I am having trouble finding the switch I was talking about. I put a call in to a switch shop that I used to deal with a bit to see if I could get some made. I will keep y'all updated.

EDIT- Due to popular request I have submitted a few places that I have found some of the rotory switches. Keep in mind that some of these are a tad big for sliding in to the hilt but would serve quite nicely on the pommel.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RS-95/700425/1_POLE_3_POSITION_ROTARY_.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RS-134/700425/ROTARY_SWITCH,_4_POLE_3_POSTION_.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-LOT-OF-10-PCS-ALCO-4-POLE-3-POSITION-ROTARY-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ110023015743QQihZ001QQcategoryZ581 68QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062536&cp=2032058.2032230.2032278&pg=2&numProdsPerPage=20&parentPage=family



<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

I've been looking for switches too, and to be honest, it is getting depressing. I can't find anything that looks like it will be nice looking AND function the right way. For true one handed operation, I think a slide switch would be best....but all I have seen are UGLY. They'd look like they were added on past facto, and that's not cool.

[xwingband]

I'd suggest getting a catalog from one of the major electronics companies online. I ordered a bit of stuff from mouser and got a suprise A FRIGGIN' PHONEBOOK SIZED CATALOG in the mail weeks later. Not only did it help compared to looking at PDFs online, but I got to see all the other stuff they have which I'll definatly be keeping in mind for later.

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[Ambo]

Or do what madcow does, he uses the slides like the MR and makes buttons for em on his lathe.....you may not have a lathe but it shouldnt be to much trouble to make a cap for a slide switch.....

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[james3]

Ok guys, I am looking in to getting these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-OF-30-4-POSITION-DOUBLE-POLE-SLIDE-SWITCH-LOT-3_W0QQitemZ170020438020QQcmdZViewItem

As Ambo said, you can use it as just the slide or add a button, etc. One thing that I have done is cut out only the amount of travel you want in the switch and then mount it fromt he bottom. Anyway, if you guys have any interest at all in this I could order them, solder leads or mark where they would need to be connected and ship one out.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

If that switch would do what it is I am trying to accomplish with my electronics, then I would certainly be interested in buying one pigtailed and marked.

[Jonitus]

I'm giving this a bump.

Did anyone come to a final draft of the wiring diagram? I ordered a bunch of the electronics, but I'm holding off on the remainder until the diagram is finalized, just to cut down on extra trips or buying more than what I need.

Thank you!

[james3]

The switches are coming. Once I get those in I will get this knocked out. Want to make sure I have everything just right.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Jonitus]

Thanks, James. I appreciate it a bunch!

I went to RadioShack with my girlfriend this past Saturday and was shocked to discover that particular store no longer has the numerous bins full of electronic doo-dads and thingamabobs. No Zener diodes. No resistors. No spools of 18 AWG wire, no alligator clips. It was all gone!

GAH!

The stuff I ordered shoul dbe in today or tomorrow, so it will be time to start figuring out physical layout so I can build the hilt around all this goodness.

[Madcow]

If you can drill a hole - then you can put almost anything on a slide switch.
http://www.freewebs.com/genesis_sabers/green%203w%20small%20collage.JPG
This is a lighting knob from a hardware store and a bit of plastic tube to make it fit nice on the slide switch, and some glue.

MC


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[Ambo]

Radio Shack is going more modernized.....they are now going away from what they are known for.....all the ones in my area are also getting rid of or already got rid of all their do-dad items.

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[Jonitus]

I just got my MR sound baord in from Tim, so when the diagram is ready to go, could we make sure it takes the Luke MR sound board into account, since it looks quite a bit different than the one Corbin used on his site??

[xwingband]

It should be a lot easier that way. There are dedicated speaker wires so you don't need to bother with splicing the positive.

I'm not sure but you may be able to splice in the shock sensor on the Luke. It's seperate so that may be a possibility. I know it makes that a whole lot easier.[;)] You'd have to confirm with Corbin.

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[james3]

Switches came today. I will start playing with them at nap time or tonight after bed.

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[footix64]

Hello,

could you make me a wiring guide to this components :

-Led / Resistor / Recharge port / Battery /switch

Thanks

[xwingband]

Easy there is practically no need for a diagram unless you just don't visualize well. The recharge port just gets spliced in (preferably before the switch). You have to pay attention to which you solder to the center or tip but otherwise it's no biggie.

Do you get it? If not I'm just going to make a topic and pull from Corbin's tutorial to make a nice area to point to.

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[Jonitus]

That would not be a bad idea. Corbin has some good diagrams, but some of us use some more esoteric combos in our sabers, and it might be helpful to all the members here if there was a sticky thread someplace that had diagrams for a bunch of the different combinations of parts and such.

[xwingband]

Well, I guess I could start making different combo's the problem I see is that I can't test them all...

I can say that a recharge port is pretty much the simplest thing to add as it's just a splice in. If you want a recharge light then it's getting tricky... I never bother though. The light on my charger tells me it's charging, I don't need the saber to tell me too.[:D]

I'll get on that recharge port thread then...

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[footix64]

i begin into wiring so a diagram will help me a lot !

[xwingband]

Okay, I was starting on a whole big thread about it. But here's the basic pic I made

http://www.classmaterial.com/~_3513/incom/basicrecharge.jpg

... I still had a few more diagrams to make for more complex setups and I was tired so tonight I'll finish the tutorial on it tonight.

I made it very basic (readable) so that it could also fit with EL. I just put an arrow that goes to the rest but from there it'd be resistor and switch then the LED. The note is important, you'll see what I mean. On both the jack and port there will be an obvious tab that goes to the center or tip of both the port and jack. Traditionally the positive is the center but as long as you keep it consistant it doesn't matter.

I thought I recognized the name, I saw you on Erv's boards. I was wondering why didn't you bring this up with Erv?

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[footix64]

i launch a topic to wiring guide in erv forum but french community is more slow react on it and erv was overbooked at this time so i don't disturbed him more !

[james3]

OK guys! I finally had a little time this evening to actually sit down and play with these dang switches! :o

I have the first one done and it is doing what we need it to do :D

I am going to use one on my staff that I am finishing up and I am STOKED that I can hold it in the Darth Maul stance and fire up one side and then the other nice and smooth. one switch two sides at seperate times!!!!!

WOO HOO!!!!