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View Full Version : First Saber Build - Single-Handed "Jian" Style, Wrapped Hilt Saber



simjason
01-31-2012, 12:32 PM
Greetings everyone! After a year of entertaining the idea of building a saber, and lurking forums, I've decided to go for it. I'll post a build log here, and will probably have some questions as I move forward. I have a bit of experience with simple machining and electronics, so I'm pretty confident this will come out well with a bit of patience.

The concept has been sketched and mostly spec'd. (I'll post sketches later.) It will be a single-handed Chinese "Jian" style hilt. Well, it doesn't look much like a Jian but it is meant to be wielded in that style. The build shouldn't be too crazy, but fitment of components will be a bit tight as I'm using 1.25 sink tube for the main grip. Reason being the grip will be wrapped in cord, and I want the pommel and upper body the same width as the grip, if not a bit wider. I haven't seen anyone do this, so I'm a bit concerned that there's a very good reason for that. However, if the fitment just doesn't work out I have a Plan B. 't using MHS parts for most of the build, sink tube for the grip, and an MHS sleeve that I will cut into a reversed blade shield.

Will be using a Petit Crouton soundboard (assuming I can get one) and Luxeon LED. Planning to use a few recessed accent LEDs, but will probably not use a vibration motor, since it will be tight in there and may be difficult to isolate the soundboard (see.. I've read the manual. ;)) Figure I can always add that later...

Stay tuned, and thanks in advance for your feedback!

Best,

J

simjason
01-31-2012, 12:58 PM
6373

Here's the rough sketch. Proportions are obviously not 100% accurate, but this will give you the idea.

Jenny
02-01-2012, 02:27 PM
Are you planning to do some sort of fiber hilt wrapping?

Don Se Wion
02-02-2012, 03:13 AM
Just an heads up, you won't be able to place the illuminate switch that close to the emitter.
You need to consider the blade holder thread (0.5" if I'm not wrong) and some more space to fit the LED module.
If you try and use the Internal View tool in the MHS Builder you can get an idea of the available internal spaces.

Crystal Chambers
02-02-2012, 07:42 AM
Try it out in the MHS builder and you'll see the internal view of the parts your using. You'll also want to take into consideration the heatsink which will take up a bit more space beyond the threads. An inch to be safe. Basically the blade holder threads and heatsink will fill most if not all of the sinktube adapters internal space. That pretty much leaves the pommel insert as the only option for that switch.

simjason
02-08-2012, 03:42 PM
Thanks for the tips. Ya, it would be nice if the builder had more of the internal components available to spec out and test for fit. I was planning to use a 2" extension between the emitter and the sink tube adapter, but it looks like I will need a 3" to make it work. Will make the saber a bit longer than I was going for, but it should still be reasonable.

simjason
02-08-2012, 03:43 PM
Are you planning to do some sort of fiber hilt wrapping?

Yes. Have a few different styles I'm considering.

Juvehil Aurelius Kae
02-09-2012, 10:50 AM
6415

This is the prelims to my very first TCSS build... I too have to figure out what kind of wrapping on the hilt I should do. I found "pony bead" thin leather at a Hobby Lobby, but I don't know if that'll be efficitant enough. I may just get a "farmer's bundle" and just chop stuff up.

simjason
03-12-2012, 07:36 PM
Nice design...

simjason
03-12-2012, 08:03 PM
So, after a while of having various items being backordered at different times, waiting, having some become available and others then go on backorder (ack!)... I decided to just order what I could to start getting some "tactile visualization" going. :p

Here's my pile of stuff so far...

6570

I've played around with some of the fitment, done some more diagraming of the assembly plans and created a wiring diagram for the electronics, including their fitment. I'm pretty confident on how this is all going to go together. We'll see.

The sink tube for the grip has been cut to size. I had hoped I'd be able to stack the PC board and battery on either side of each other on the chassis, but the 1.25 sink tube is too narrow to allow it, so they'll have to go in one behind the other. Fortunately, there's just enough length inside the grip to allow for it. I'm not going for any internal fancies like crystal chambers, etc... It's just not practical with this design and, since it's my first build, I drew the line there for now.

65716572

I'm waiting on one of the new 2w woofer speakers (backordered), and a Li-Ion charger before I can start testing electronics. In the meantime, I can get to drilling and dremeling...

simjason
03-14-2012, 09:26 AM
To assemble this build the way I planned required drilling through three MHS sections at the same time, assembled. I had obvious reservations of how this would impact the threads and overall strength, but I figured I'd give it a go. (The bottom line is, it worked. ;))

I started with the power-up switch.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44120813/sabers/IMG_0636.jpg

As you can see, the switch is going smack in the middle of an MHS double-male coupler, which joins an MHS extension and an MHS sink tube adapter. As Don Se Wion pointed out, the original design had the switch too close to the emitter as it would interfere with the LED heatsink. This location is not only far enough back, but looks pretty cool lining up centered on seams of the sections.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44120813/sabers/IMG_0638.jpg

With the switch test-fitted, I next moved on to the LED-blinkies on the side of the body. The plan was to cut a piece of blank circuit board (Radio Shack) to house the LEDs, then attach it inside the tube from the outside. I should note that the plan is to keep everything modular, so any components can be removed and replaced with relative ease. This is why I didn't just glue them in place. Figured this was important, especially with a first build where things can (and do) go wrong.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44120813/sabers/IMG_0641.jpg

...and the completed LED board... I located some screws that were tiny enough to use existing holes in the board, drilled out to 1/16". The screws needed to be tiny, since the heads will need to be countersunk into the tube so the sleeve material will be able to slide over them.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44120813/sabers/IMG_0644.jpg

Now, this is where my inexperience as a machinist comes in. I used a drill press for all the holes; I can't imagine trying to do it by hand with any accuracy. But, I still managed to screw it up. You'll notice that the three LED holes aren't spaced evenly. We'll chalk it up to experience on using a drill press properly vs. improperly. The good news is, all is not lost. The holes aren't so far off that the LED's don't line up in their respective places (sort of). Since, these holes will be covered by the MHS sleeve, and I planned to use smaller holes in the sleeve, I will essentially get a second chance to get the alignment right. You can see I oversized the center hole to help with this plan (it was too far to the left).
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44120813/sabers/IMG_0645.jpg

The next shot shows 6 drilled and tapped holes through the sink tube and sink tube adapters (3 on each end) to attach everything. Drilled a hole for the 2.1mm charging plug; test fitted. Drilled and tapped the blade retention screw hole.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44120813/sabers/IMG_0649.jpg

So, all this was done yesterday afternoon. I actually did 90% of the sleeve last night too, but pics on that will have to wait until next post. :)

simjason
07-15-2012, 04:28 PM
Hey gang. Well, it's done! I have to apologize for not documenting this project better, but hey... ;)

Overall, I'm pleased with how this came out, especially considering this is a first build. I did find that fitting all the electronics in the 1.25" sink tube was TIGHT, especially with the switches and charging plug in such close proximity to each other just ahead of the PC. But, I think the results are worth it... The narrower grip section allowed for wrapping that didn't "fatten" the overall look of the hilt, and kept it at a more uniform diameter. This is exactly as I had in mind.

If you're interested in the wrap, check out paracordist.com (http://www.paracordist.com). Many thanks to the site's author for providing such comprehensive instructional videos!

In any case, I learned quite a bit, of course, about do's and don'ts, and gained an understanding of how these things come together! Thanks to all on this forum who helped along the way...

7342

7343

mrknify
07-15-2012, 04:34 PM
WOW amazing job :)

DarkarNights
07-15-2012, 08:24 PM
Very nice work. Is there a tutorial you followed to learn how to wrap the paracord so neatly?

hebert466
07-15-2012, 10:10 PM
great job indeed, looks great.:)

Zzan
07-16-2012, 08:27 AM
From the link he provided in his post there are 3 videos on the video page: How to tie the "long" turks head 1, 2, and 3.

simjason
07-16-2012, 08:30 AM
Thanks for the kudos. The tutorials for paracord wrapping I used are at paracordist.com (http://www.paracordist.com). Specifically, check the 4 video series on the long turks head knot. (http://www.paracordist.com/videos)

simjason
07-16-2012, 08:36 AM
From the link he provided in his post there are 3 videos on the video page: How to tie the "long" turks head 1, 2, and 3.

There's also a "Part 4". Make sure you watch all 4 of them before attempting the wrap. It's pretty easy if you pay close attention. :)

koko kama
09-11-2012, 01:25 AM
Cool thats nifty, ill definately have to try that. what exactly is the material you used in the wrap?

Xene
09-11-2012, 04:22 PM
Very nice build :D may try somthing simular in future~If I can ever afford it XD

simjason
09-13-2012, 06:41 AM
what exactly is the material you used in the wrap?

it's paracord. If I remember right, I got it from paracordplanet.com.