A few Questions about switches, batteries, speakers and pommel recharge ports

[Garrek]

I had a few questions that I can't seem to find the answers to.

My first question and most important I think is about battery options.
I plan on using an Engin RGBW or RGGB and a PC or similar sound board.
I plan on running one of two ways.
With the PC I plan to run GG in series and RB in series for a FOC. Or GB and W for clash to get a cyan.
With the other board I'm looking at I am planing on running RGB in parallel for color mixing and W for flash.

Both of these options are going to take a lot of battery.
Right now I've seen a few options.
2 or 4AA, not sure if they would be able to keep up with two led let alone a third for clash.
A stick of 18650s which..MAY fit, but only just and also depends on my 2nd questions answer.
I've also found a 17670 which is 3.7V and 1500mAH, though I believe these are still just to big to fit side by side in an MHS hilt. Am I wrong on that? Please say I am. :rolleyes:

Can anyone suggest any other battery set ups that I may have missed?
I have seen Sunrider's mod to fit 18650's side by side, however that wouldn't really work for my saber design.


My 2nd question.
How far into the hilt does the "16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch" from the store go?
If you say 16mm I'm going to kick myself. lol


The next question is about the new 2w bass speaker.
I noticed it is a good bit thicker then the premium speaker, don't know how much exactly, looks at least 2 or 3 times thicker.
My question though, is if I'm hurting for space, is the new 2watt speaker that much better then the premium and how much thinner is the premium speaker?

My last question is about Recharge ports in pommels, like when using Insert style 6.
Does the recharge connector being there effect the sound any?
I haven't been able to find any posts complaining about it.
I just thought I would be safe and ask, it could just be a known drawback so no one complains.
I'm hoping not, as its the only place I can really see myself putting..let alone fitting a recharge port.


Thanks ahead of time for any help.
Oh and
May the blaster be at your side. :cool: *snicker*

[Garrek]

Come on, the joke at the end wasn't that bad guys.

I hate to double post but this has gone almost 3 days now with no response
Maybe if I get it up in the list someone with an answer will see it this time.

I've decided to find a pair of 14650 1600mAH batteries, so unless you have a better pair to suggest that one is answered.
I still haven't been able to find out about the switch, speakers or the recharge in the pommel though, so some help there would be appreciated.

[Sunrider]

You are very close to making these decisions for your self. A bit more research and you will decide. Opinion will widely vary on the questions you ask.

[Garrek]

Research isn't going either way on the speaker, the recharge port in the pommel or the switch.
I have yet to find anyone stating whether or not a recharge in the pommel effects the sound, so I suppose I should just assume not.
The speakers again, I have not found anyone stating how thick they are, though with my nearing final design I'm not sure it maters so much anymore.
The switch again I can't find anyone stating the switches length...and again may not matter looking at my possible final build.

Also, I'm not sure how opinions can vary on any of that information, except the speaker qualities.

Speaking of which I'm debating just grabbing both and hearing/deciding for myself.
Worst case scenario I have a speaker that would be perfect for a sith saber.

[lukeskyrunner666]

I've been trying to build a light saber but i do not no what i need

[Garrek]

I've been trying to build a light saber but i do not no what i need

uhm....ok, start by reading this subforum's topics.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?35-New-to-the-saber-scene-Start-Here

Once you decide what you want to do, look through the forums for the specific information you need.
If you don't understand something go ahead and ask the forum, just make sure you've at least tried to figure it out yourself first.

[Loachri MacTalabh]

DYI FORUM

I have yet to find anyone stating whether or not a recharge in the pommel effects the sound,If you do a search, you will see a multitude of Sabersmiths and Hobbyists have put the speaker at many different positions through out the hilt. So,,,,,,Sound isn't effected.



The speakers again, I have not found anyone stating how thick they are,Look in the shop. Your answers are there.
Premium Speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-Speaker-P77.aspx (HINT: Look at the PDF)
(http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/product/pspeaker.pdf)2w bass speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2w-bass-speaker-P662.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2w-bass-speaker-P662.aspx)



The switch again I can't find anyone stating the switches length...There is 54 different switches in the shop. Most have the same dimensions. So which one do you plan on using?

[Garrek]

DYI FORUM
Sorry, I'm not sure what that means. did you mean DIY?



If you do a search, you will see a multitude of Sabersmiths and Hobbyists have put the speaker at many different positions through out the hilt. So,,,,,,Sound isn't effected.

Yah, I had assumed that but just wanted to be sure.



Look in the shop. Your answers are there.
Premium Speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-Speaker-P77.aspx (HINT: Look at the PDF)
(http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/product/pspeaker.pdf)2w bass speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2w-bass-speaker-P662.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2w-bass-speaker-P662.aspx)

Oh wow, I feel kind of stupid now, never even saw that.
So it is about a third the thickness.



There is 54 different switches in the shop. Most have the same dimensions. So which one do you plan on using?
I'm talking about this one specifically.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Nickel-Plated-Switch-P471.aspx

The only two that have MHS Builder spots are the two illuminated switch types, "man are they" long and the shorter version of the same.

Thanks for the response.

[Ka'getsu]

@Garrek I noticed that you said that you were going to run your led dies in series.... Depending on the power solution you're going to use, you might want to think about running them in parallel, since running them in series will tend to eat your batteries rather quickly, that's been my experience anyway.

Best of luck on your build :)

Cheers

Ka'ge

[Garrek]

@Garrek I noticed that you said that you were going to run your led dies in series.... Depending on the power solution you're going to use, you might want to think about running them in parallel, since running them in series will tend to eat your batteries rather quickly, that's been my experience anyway.

Best of luck on your build :)

Cheers

Ka'ge

As I understand it, wiring two LED in
Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go.
So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack.

Maybe you "or I" am confusing the terms. I'll admit I have done that more then once.

[Loachri MacTalabh]

That switch only goes a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the MHS.

Yes I meant DIY. As in DO IT YOURSELF!

[Garrek]

That switch only goes a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the MHS.

Yes I meant DIY. As in DO IT YOURSELF!

I intend to... the parts I can at least.
So the soldering and screwing together basically.

Just have to decide between that one and the shorter led switches.
I don't particularly care for the led buttons but having the option is always good.
Could turn out I like them better in person and they don't look to bad unlit either.

Thanks for the information again.

[Sunrider]

As I understand it, wiring two LED in
Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*
So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

Maybe you "or I" am confusing the terms. I'll admit I have done that more then once.

Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*

So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

There are many different ways to run dies and packs to power them. There are many opinions on the different setups. I like parallel myself, to drive them hard. but this is more complicated sooo...

[Garrek]

Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*

So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

There are many different ways to run dies and packs to power them. There are many opinions on the different setups. I like parallel myself, to drive them hard. but this is more complicated sooo...

Ah, I see. Power is a confusing thing. :/

With a pair of 14650 li-ions at 7.4v and 1600mAH, running through a PC, would you personally suggest a parallel or series setup for the best light output vs time?
I could possibly go for a 4 pack, though I don't think I will and at that point a stick pair of 18650 would prolly be a better choice.

[Weaver]

Looking at the available options, I'm going to have to say that parallel wiring is the better way to go. I was told that running multiple pairs of 14500 (AA size) Li-Ions in parallel (each pair is wired in series, making three 7.4v packs in parallel) would extend runtime and offer a larger input current. If you're running your LEDs in parallel, this may be what you want.

Unfortunately, parallel LED wiring can suffer from color separation. I've not done enough research on that subject, since I wanted my first saber wired in series, but it sounds awful. If you're going for RGBW (like I want to, eventually), it's worth doing some extra research on how color separation may affect the wiring.

In the end, I'd have to say that multiple packs are the way to go (at least, for me), since the smaller battery size would make better use of the space we have to work with. I'd much rather have half the hilt reserved for small packs, and use more of the width of the space available, than have the entire hilt taken up with a pair of batteries which wastes most of that space. If there were AAA size Li-Ions, I'm sure I'd go with those.

It's also possible to put an extra battery pack inside (if you have the space) and directly drive a few extra components without wiring through the PC. If you wanted, for instance, a cooling fan, but already maxed your input to the PC, you could acquire a small power regulator and run the extra pack to the fan. You'd either need removable batteries or a second recharge port, but it would be better than sacrificing power to your LED.

Don't feel bad about not having all the answers. I've been here for almost two months and I'm still reading everything I can get my hands on. I don't see that changing in the short-term.

EDIT: Actually, just sourced some AAA size Li-Ions from an external site (link omitted). 10440s are on my list, now. 3.7v, 500mah, unprotected, flat top. I'd rather have tabs, but I'll take what I can get. I'll have to cobble a cylindrical battery holder for them.

[lukeskyrunner666]

how do i change my pic

[Garrek]

Looking at the available options, I'm going to have to say that parallel wiring is the better way to go. I was told that running multiple pairs of 14500 (AA size) Li-Ions in parallel (each pair is wired in series, making three 7.4v packs in parallel) would extend runtime and offer a larger input current. If you're running your LEDs in parallel, this may be what you want.

3 pairs of AA sized Li-Ions would be 6 inches long and provide "if I'm thinking right" 2400-2700mAH and 7.4v.
2 pairs of AA sized Li-Ions would be 4 inches long and provide 1600-1800mAH and 7.4V.
A pair of 14650 that I plan on using take 2.5 inches and provide 1600mAH and 7.4V.
2 pairs of 14650 Li-Ions would be 5 inches long and provide 3200mAH and 7.4V.
A pair of 18650 take 5 inches or 2.5 if you use Sunrider's method of installing them side by side and provide 2600mAH and 7.4V

So the AA size batteries are losing out on run time. Anyone can correct me if I'm misunderstanding things.
That aside I was inquiring as to how he would personally wire the led to best take advantage of brightness vs run time given the batteries, not how he would wire the batteries.
I'm not entierly sure you even could run 2 led, a PC and a speaker off a 3.7V batte



Unfortunately, parallel LED wiring can suffer from color separation. I've not done enough research on that subject, since I wanted my first saber wired in series, but it sounds awful. If you're going for RGBW (like I want to, eventually), it's worth doing some extra research on how color separation may affect the wiring.

I have also read this, however the board I would be using for a color changing saber would compensate for this.
I haven't read up on this to much since I had decided to run them in series.
Though I prolly should.



EDIT: Actually, just sourced some AAA size Li-Ions from an external site (link omitted). 10440s are on my list, now. 3.7v, 500mah, unprotected, flat top. I'd rather have tabs, but I'll take what I can get. I'll have to cobble a cylindrical battery holder for them.

I believe I have read that trying to push AAA batteries into running multiple led at once can be dangerous.
Though I may be misremembering.

Also you would need an awful lot of AAA to get the same run time as 2 14650s.
I think...3 pair, so 6 just to get 1500mAH, if your really tight for battery space, I suppose they might be worth it.
Assuming that you have somewhere else with enough room for a sound board but not batteries.
You can fit...what maybe 7 in an MHS main body? So enough for a 7.4V 1500mAH in a 1.75 inch section?
You can layer a soundboard on a pair of 14--0s with plenty of room in a 2/2.5 inch section.





how do i change my pic

Really? :-|
Have you even looked at the sub-forum names yet?
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?1-Start-here
Read everything in there before you ask another question. Please?

[Weaver]

Those were 500 mah each, so 6 of them ends up being 3000 mah. They're also the same type of battery, so I'm not sure how it's any different to run multiple smaller cells, versus a few larger ones.

[Garrek]

Those were 500 mah each, so 6 of them ends up being 3000 mah. They're also the same type of battery, so I'm not sure how it's any different to run multiple smaller cells, versus a few larger ones.

There's no difference in combining small vs large cells, except not to combine them into one pack. XD Far as I know anyway.

If you run all 6 in series then yah it is 3000mAH but then its also only 3.7V.

If you run 2 batteries in series for 7.4V then you need another pack of 2 in series, wired parallel to add to the mAH.

[Sunrider]

Those were 500 mah each, so 6 of them ends up being 3000 mah. They're also the same type of battery, so I'm not sure how it's any different to run multiple smaller cells, versus a few larger ones.

No. When batteries are put in series voltage goes up, current and capacity stay the same. Never go smaller in battery size than you need to. The actual mah of a 14650s is 1100mah. 18650s can go up to 2900mah, that is equal to 6 or 7 AAA size or 4 AA size li-ions. 18650s are a huge step up in power compared to everything else. Even 18500s are only 1600mah. I would never use AAA size for anything.

[Garrek]

No. When batteries are put in series voltage goes up, current and capacity stay the same. Never go smaller in battery size than you need to. The actual mah of a 14650s is 1100mah. 18650s can go up to 2900mah, that is equal to 6 or 7 AAA size or 4 AA size li-ions. 18650s are a huge step up in power compared to everything else. Even 18500s are only 1600mah. I would never use AAA size for anything.
I've found some TrustFire 14650s that claim to be 1600mAh, are you saying that these are actually only 1100mAH?
If so I will probably go back to trying to fit an 18650 stick into my saber instead.

[Sunrider]

Yes, it is very common for these batteries to be over rated, sometimes horribly.

[Garrek]

Well shoot, and here I thought I was being clever. :\
Oh well, back to hoping an 18650 will fit under my switches.
It looks tight on paper but with the extra quarter inch of the box and the shorter illuminated switches it should be possible.