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Elhia
12-27-2011, 11:52 AM
I'm new so I apologize beforehand if i break any obvious or unwritten rules

I want to use the parts below sold in the store for my saber electronics but i don't know if i have enough wiring
And I don't know which battery pack to choose with the MWS kit that would work best so please help me out

MWS (Modular Wiring System) (the kit)
Red LED indicator
DPDT Latching red illuminated switch (LRNR)
DPDT Latching red illuminated switch (LDNR)
Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module

Saber hilt parts

Activation box style 10
Bezel for illuminated switches

Notes!!!
-The other hilt parts i'm not sure what i'm using so that is why is didn't list the full hilt parts.
-I want to connect one of the illuminated switches to a light i have from my nerf recon laser
do i need a resistor for it ? It has a switch to turn it on a connected 2 AAA battery holder and the light
-The second switch i want to use for a crystal chamber any suggestions?
-would a 3" Double female threaded connector have enough space for the activation box style 10?

Silver Serpent
12-27-2011, 12:14 PM
My recommendation for you is to read more. There is a TON of information here on the forums, and it'll take a bit to digest it all. Start here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?35-New-to-the-saber-scene-Start-Here

If you're interested in using the MWS and a premade LED module, then those are the only two bits of electronics you should need to have an illuminated saber.

Play around with the saber builder to get an idea of how you want your saber to look. There's a link at the top of the forums: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/mhsbuilder/mhsbuilder.php

Once you've read a bit more and understand some of the wiring diagrams, let us know if you have any specific questions that you'd like assistance with.

For your battery pack with the MWS kit, I'd recommend either the 4AAA or 4AA. It'll allow you to use regular alkalines with your saber. You may find that easier for your first build.

Elhia
12-28-2011, 01:18 AM
Will this wiring be fine if i switch out the switch for the illuminated one?
And how would exactly do i put a JST connector on the switch?
Buckpuck 1000ma 6wire -> 4AAA battery holder
-> DPDT Latching red illuminated switch
-> Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module

Silver Serpent
12-28-2011, 07:12 AM
You attach a JST connector to the switch with a soldering iron and some solder.

Wiring up an illuminated switch will require you to add a few extra wires and a resistor if you want the switch to light up. They don't do it automatically. There's a few different ways to do this, depending on how you want the light to operate. Take a look around the forums and you should find several good wiring diagrams.

Elhia
12-29-2011, 12:43 AM
ok so new wiring

Buckpuck 1000ma 6wire-> 4 AAA battery holder
->220ohm 1/4w resistor ->DPDT Latching red illuminated switch
->Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module

and would a Machine AV switch hole fit on a 2" Double female threaded connector without going on the threading
and would a Box 9 and 10 Mounting holes service fit on a 3" Double female threaded connector without going on the threading?

Silver Serpent
12-29-2011, 07:07 AM
Resistor is good if you're running normal alkaline AAA batteries.

For your other two questions: Yes, and Yes.

Elhia
12-29-2011, 11:50 PM
Serpent i just want to say i appreciate all your help and again thank you so much man
The mechanics are bought and the base design for me saber is coming together!!

another question on the "location for hole?" question could i just put " 2" Double female threaded connector " ??

Jay-gon Jinn
12-29-2011, 11:58 PM
Tim will need you need to be a little more specific than that. Like say, "centered 3/4"" from one end."

Weaver
12-30-2011, 07:57 AM
I have found the store's Wish List function to be invaluable in aiding my design plans. My suggestion to you (for a parts list) is to click literally every category on the main page, view every part individually, and ask yourself "Do I need that? What do I need it for? Will it serve a vital function, or is it an accent part?" Add any parts you believe you will need to your wishlist. Nothing says you have to buy them, but you won't forget what you wanted when it comes time to make an order. That is exactly what I have done and, in so doing, discovered that I needed much more than I thought I did.

You will discover that there is more that goes into a saber replica than just a hilt, light, and sound. I will admit that I didn't know what a "chassis" was until I discovered the parts for it on the TCSS site. I did some exploring of pic-heavy threads on the forum and eventually found a picture with a chassis in the background. Suddenly my questions about how to secure the internals and keep the soundboard from rattling around when swinging the saber answered themselves.

Go ahead and nose around on both the site and the forum. From a newcomer to a newcomer, my best advice is this: Make yourself a cup of coffee and shut off your phone for half a day. This place is chock full of information. I personally guarantee you will find something you didn't know existed.

Elhia
12-31-2011, 10:07 AM
Jay gon wiykd "centered 3/4"" from one end be like in the middle? for a 2"Double female threaded connector

and wrath thank you for the advice I've actually done something like that
I would go through everything the store has to offer and put anything i want or needed in my cart
anything i needed stayed and everything else went to wishlist

and how would i wire in a red led indicator?

Jay-gon Jinn
12-31-2011, 12:20 PM
Jay gon wiykd "centered 3/4"" from one end be like in the middle? for a 2"Double female threaded connector

and how would i wire in a red led indicator?No, 3/4" wouldn't center it, that was jut an example of how to word it for Tim...think about it...if you want the switch centered in the middle of the 2" extension, how far from one end would it be? ;) :D

As for wiring in an accent led, there are wiring diagrams here on the shop's storefront:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx

Also, if you didn't know about it, try using this to build your saber first, it will give you some idea of what you'll need for internal space:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/mhsbuilder/mhsbuilder.php

Elhia
12-31-2011, 07:46 PM
Sorry about the wiykd horrible typo
And yeah that was a dumb question 1 inch duh

And the chart shows me that I have to connect the negative wire to both the led and the accent led
how would that be done.

And how do I contact Tim?

Elhia
01-07-2012, 10:33 PM
for my earlier post
about wiring how would i solder the buckpuck to the 220ohm 1/4w resistor and then solder it to the switch?
Would i just solder both positive and negative to the resistor when i'm soldering the buckpuck and the switch?


Buckpuck 1000ma 6wire-> 4 AAA battery holder
->220ohm 1/4w resistor ->DPDT Latching red illuminated switch
->Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module