First MR build!

[Artorius Vidnyl]

I did a dirty build (no hilt, no heat shrink) of a Luke ANH

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k593/EJLynd/LukeANH.jpg

I followed this exactly but I have two questions. For LED - bundle is it really as simple as just soldering all those wires together and then attach the LED? No need for another component of any kind? I can't imagine what you would put there but I have to ask for my piece of mind.

I've also tried to find out what the power supply should be for the board. I hooked up a 3 AA pack (4.5v) up to the board. I know that's not much better than over powering but it know it won't totally fry it.

To answer the obvious; yes the circuit works. LED is on, motion & clash sensors activate correctly, latching switch works no issues. Just a first time builder trying to make sure I didn't wreck my first circuit.

If you want to see my actual build I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow. Please any advice is what I'm begging for! I'm here to learn.

[FenderBender]

The only other thing you'd have to put in between the board and LED, would be a resistor, and that would depend on what power supply you end up permanently using and what LED you're using. These boards have a 6V max input, so you're limited to 1: Alkalines x3 for 4.5V or x4 for 6V 2: NiMh batteries x4 for 4.8V 3: Li-Ion single cell 3.7V. Personally, I use the 4x NiMh batteries with MRFX boards because it's not that much higher than the alkalines they were designed to run with and you get more current output compared to alkalines. Plus, I haven't used alkalines in a saber with sound in 3 years. Some people do fine with the single Li-Ion cell, so that would be good too.

[Artorius Vidnyl]

Excellent! The resistors I already knew about and had in place, and yes the LED is mounted on a primitive but temporary heat sink. Thus all things are in order. I appreciate the feedback and when this build progresses to being a hilt I will update the thread. Thanks again!

[FenderBender]

Just to clarify, resistors aren't necessarily 'required', it just 'depends';)

[Noyl Wendor]

Yep fender knows :) he's right no need for a resistor if you are doing under 6v for your power. I've used Nimh on most of the MR boards I've done. But I will say using a single protected Lit-ion (imho) 3.7v http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-2400mAh-18650-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P517.aspx works pretty well. If you're doing an MR hilt that may not be an option. But I'm sure once you get to building MHS hilts with MR boards (maybe?) this would be something to keep in mind.
Another possible idea, (fender if you're reading this, let me know if I'm wrong) would be two "dummy" cells and one Lit-ion out of hilt rechargeable 3.7v protected cell like this
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx
You could have only one in the battery pack of an MR hilt, two would kill the board and LED. Might be an option if you don't go with building your own right away.

[Artorius Vidnyl]

Good to know. I actually DID put this in an MHS hilt. Being my first build I will probably upgrade this thing into infinity. I'm always considering how to up grade so I'll keep this all in mind. Thank you!

[Noyl Wendor]

One thing I forgot to add. The 3.7 Lit-ion protected cell (use only one protected cell by itself) is usually for a recharge port with a "kill plug". Not hard to wire to a board :) if I can do it you surely can LOL:) I will say that wiring up the battery can be an interersting process, read, research, ask questions before diving into soldering wires on a Lit-ion battery. You'll be happier in the long run.
BTW, I hear you on upgradeing "first" hilts. I upgraded my so much that I ended up building another, then another after that, then one more after that :) Thats how it starts. ;) but it sure the heck is fun.

[FenderBender]

Since he is putting this into an MHS hilt, a recharge set up is preferred, but not absolutely necessary. For Li-Ions I would definitely stick to a single cell set up, but Ni-Mh would work fine too. You'd really only need a resistor if you're using a red LED of some sort. They tend to pop when using anything above 3.7V.

[Artorius Vidnyl]

Since he is putting this into an MHS hilt, a recharge set up is preferred, but not absolutely necessary. For Li-Ions I would definitely stick to a single cell set up, but Ni-Mh would work fine too. You'd really only need a resistor if you're using a red LED of some sort. They tend to pop when using anything above 3.7V.

It's interesting you say this since I decided to go the easy route and get a Seoul P4 kit. It came with a resistor, but then I'm planning to change the battery set up to NiMH so the voltage will drop off to 4.8v from 6v. So I can lose the resistor if I do that, and then I'll just need to drill an appropriate sized hole for the recharge port. The wheels are turning! I'll post pictures of the hilt soon.

[Artorius Vidnyl]

Alright so here's a bit of a delayed build log (I finished the install a week ago but have been busy since). I'm looking for critiques and criticism. Positive points are nice too but I'm looking to improve. I'll have questions of my own at the end. Please forgive all the stuff in the background, I'm in a rush this morning and I wanted to get this done.

Here's the hilt almost completely disassembled. I used an MR Luke ANH, 4x AAA 6v battery set up, 5w 3.3Ohm resistor, Seoul P4 Blue and the only crappy speaker I have available right now.

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k593/EJLynd/P1000606.jpg

Next picture is a close up of the sound board and powered on LED using QD.

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k593/EJLynd/P1000607.jpg

Third shot is of the hilt. It's fairly plain for the moment but the assembly is as follows: ringed section on left holds speaker and batteries, grenade grip section hold sound board and sensor and the rest is obvious. I used a pair of O-rings (one is inside to prevent the LED module from rattling) to make sure that the blade holder lines up correctly with the activation button. Maybe a little OCD but it's my hilt!

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k593/EJLynd/P1000608.jpg

Last shot of it illuminated.

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k593/EJLynd/P1000609.jpg

Ok so the important part. This saber is going to get gutted because the following are going to be added: 4.8v NiMH battery setup. I don't know if my wiring is faulty but the clash sensor sucks so it's gonna get replaced (it's exactly as the guide displays it and I spent three years working in the electronics shop of an automatic door company so I know my way around a bench). The stuff that gives me questions:

I really want in hilt recharge and an AV switch. Does Tim let you send back already purchased parts to drilled and milled? Or do I have to buy a new part for that service. I'm thinking about going with having the existing hold enlarged to allow a recessed AV and then having the recharge port placed immediately above and in line with the switch (only because below the switch looks like it'll be too close.

All comments and thoughts are welcome and will not be taken personally. I am here to learn!

[Noyl Wendor]

Looks great:) I like it. Definately tell that your wire work is neat. That hilt itself looks very cool, I like the simple look to it. Not just "simple" but simple with purpose;) One thing I would point out is the resistor. If you are running a P4 Blue off that board with 4.8v you can get rid of the resistor on the LED, no prob.
For sending already purchased parts back in for further work, contact Tim:). But I will say I recently used box style 21 on my build, but this one
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-9-P626.aspx may suit your purpose. Just a suggestion of course ;).
Nice work, all the way around. I do like that hilt.

[Artorius Vidnyl]

Looks great:) I like it. Definately tell that your wire work is neat. That hilt itself looks very cool, I like the simple look to it. Not just "simple" but simple with purpose;) One thing I would point out is the resistor. If you are running a P4 Blue off that board with 4.8v you can get rid of the resistor on the LED, no prob.
For sending already purchased parts back in for further work, contact Tim:). But I will say I recently used box style 21 on my build, but this one
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-9-P626.aspx may suit your purpose. Just a suggestion of course ;).
Nice work, all the way around. I do like that hilt.

I haven't down converted from the 6v yet. Plus I did the math and WITH the 3.3Ohm 5w resistor and a 4.8v power source the current comes out to 1450mA which is pretty overdriven. This situation is confusing to me but clearly I need to learn more.

As for the box 21 or 9 as it were that is the EXACT one I was planning on having done! I do appreciate the comments and help. If someone can explain to me how it is that 4.8v without a resistor won't blow the LED (a reference to the current would really help with that cause I really thought I had this concept down). Really I will do it, and probably without the explanation, but I'd like to know why anyway. Besides, brighter is better :D

Thanks again!

[Noyl Wendor]

I haven't down converted from the 6v yet. Plus I did the math and WITH the 3.3Ohm 5w resistor and a 4.8v power source the current comes out to 1450mA which is pretty overdriven. This situation is confusing to me but clearly I need to learn more.

As for the box 21 or 9 as it were that is the EXACT one I was planning on having done! I do appreciate the comments and help. If someone can explain to me how it is that 4.8v without a resistor won't blow the LED (a reference to the current would really help with that cause I really thought I had this concept down). Really I will do it, and probably without the explanation, but I'd like to know why anyway. Besides, brighter is better :D
Thanks again!
Well I can say for sure that the MR boards have resistors on them LOL:) Wich will allow for not using a resistor on the led. The LED it self has a max FV (forward voltage) I'm pretty sure the amount of amps an LED can take, overdriven or underdriven will determine brightness. As for a refrence to current and resistors here's something handy
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx
You can actually "overdrive" a P4 blue a bit. If I remember right the max amperage on a p4 blue is 1.5, but I'm sure someone else reading this can confirm or correct what I have said :)

[Artorius Vidnyl]

So after a bit more research I have discovered this: The MR board directs 4.8v to the LED (unfortunately my multimeter is rather old and only measures up to 200mA). According to my calculations (and the internet's) 4.8v with 3.3ohm 5w resistor gives the LED 1.4545mA. That is overdriven enough. So unless there is something I don't know I'm pretty sure I need the resistor.

Is there something I'm missing?

[Noyl Wendor]

So after a bit more research I have discovered this: The MR board directs 4.8v to the LED (unfortunately my multimeter is rather old and only measures up to 200mA). According to my calculations (and the internet's) 4.8v with 3.3ohm 5w resistor gives the LED 1.4545mA. That is overdriven enough. So unless there is something I don't know I'm pretty sure I need the resistor.

Is there something I'm missing?
I would like to point out to you fenderbender's first response to your thread. It all depends on the power that you are putting to the board. Also, most of the P4's are good around 1A, or 1.5. except Red. Red you would want to resistor depending on the Fv (forward voltage) to the board. With the Blue P4 you are using and the power solution you have (4.8 Nimh, rechargeable) you should have no trouble running that with out a resistor.
In fact, I am using the same set up you are in one of my current builds. I have a Green P4 (same Fv as blue, same mA), and I am running the board and LED off of 4x Nimh rechargeable 4.8 power solution. As I have done more than a few times in the past :).
So you are good to go with out a resistor as long as your power is below lets say 5 volts, or even six for that matter. I've built a few sabers that run an MR board with 6v and not every had a complaint, well except for having to change the batterys out when they are drained. 4.8v will run the board and the LED will take about 1A or 1.5A. Still okay for that set up.
Also when you get a chance a better multimeter may be in order LOL :) they are a good investment for this hobby, next to a good soldering iron, and a drill press :)
Like I said fender knows :) I picked up alot from listening to him and a few others here :) good stuff.

[Artorius Vidnyl]

Ok cool. I believe you (I'm still new to this obviously) I was just wondering on the science so that I could understand why this is the case.

A new multimeter is in the works and has been since I realized the old ones shortcomings. Old one was free though so I couldn't complain too much!

Thanks again for the responses.

EDIT: I don't know if anyone will see this since it's an edit and not a new post but I just got my first 4AAA pack w/ attached speaker and between the green and blue wires I need to know which is pos (+) and which is neg (-) for the speaker. Help? I spend a while running searches and reading about 20 or so posts and couldn't find my answer. Not on the product page either. HELP!

[Noyl Wendor]

Sorry took so long to get back, busy :)
First Question> Did you get it figured out? :)
Next if you got the speaker batttery pack set up from the store as I recall, the wires are usually "same sided". Meaning pos (+) x2 coming out of one hole on one side (top of battery pack) Pos for speaker and battery. Neg (-) coming out of one hole on one side (top of pack) neg for battery and speaker. Other wise if you have not wired it up you could pull the speaker from the mount. The pos (+) on the speaker is usually marked with a red dot. figure wich wires connected and go from there.
Update your progress :) I'm still interested in how your doing ;)